I think the drawbacks brought up in the video apply more to pros. I’m a rather experienced DIYer capable of laying a good paper corner, but not as easily or consistently as I’d like. I just tried this straight flex today on an extensive remodel I’m wrapping up and have to say it made perfect corners extremely easy. By the 3rd corner I was putting them up in less than a minute almost looking perfect.

we have used this for jobs where the home owner has already installed the sheetrock and we go in to do the finish work and there joints have gaps in them it works really well to cover those gaps

I've been hanging / finishing drywall for over 35 years, the men that taught me had over 50 years a piece, I'd like to make some suggestions, such as reading the manufacturer's instructions on how to install straight-flex (I don't think they are as detailed instructions as what use to come with it as it first came out), you seem to be making the same mistakes I did the first time I used it. 1. Never use all purpose / tapping mud, it has more glue and shrinks, has a tendency to delaminate / blister as the mud shrinks too much while drying. 2. You can use a light weight mud, since it shrinks less, but there is a special additive that must be used while applying or straight-flex can easily be pulled off the wall when dried 3. Quick setting compound works best for installation. Try to pre-fill any bad warped angles, and gaps (let dry before installing). It is easier to install if the butt joints, flats, & bead and finish coated. Small jobs you are doing it in one day, best for off angles (you may need a staple gun in problematic areas). 4. Apply mud to corners like you would hand tapping angles, do not leave gaps in the mud like you did in the video, if there is no mud behind the tape you will be able to still see that blister even after dry & painted. 5. Double fold straight-flex in opposite directions, I'd suggest a 15 - 30 degree cut at all ends instead of a 45, place in angles, seat with special plastic took or 3 fingers (so that one is in the center, other two near outsides of tape), wipe down. 6. Let dry, scrape real quick paying attention to where the holes or slots are in the straigh-flex because this removes the saggy quick set, skim tightly over the holes and any edges with quick set. 7. When dry, apply finish coat of light weight compound the same way you did in step 6 but you can probably negate the scrapping except in problematic spots 8. Come back the next day finish sand and spot for paint. *They also make extra wide straight-flex which is good for outside corners, or splay angles in a tray ceiling if you are having problems straightening angles due to bad wood / framing. Straight-flex is basically an improvement to the old multi-angle tape (piece of paper tape with two thin strips of metal or plastic glued to center of tape), that stuff was hard to work with and if the tape bent the wrong way while installing, you basically had to start over since the metal inserts became "sprung". Straight-flex isn't made to replace paper tape, bead, etc, you should use the best material for the job. It isn't like this stuff could compete with someone applying tape with a banjo or bazooka, or installing metal / tape on corner bead. It is far too expensive to use on a complete job, and it shines on off angles or outside angles there may not be nailer on (if you don't have tape on bead in the truck). I will use it on a small job, if it only has 1 - 3 ninety degree angles, but anything more, I just tape the traditional way. I enjoy your channel, keep on fighting the good fight and spreading the word of how to correctly do things in our trade, I've seen so many channels that have no clue instructing people and it pisses me off. This channel isn't like that, which is why I'm subscribed

Strait flex is the only tape that I use when taping a room. Ample mud is needed under the tape; immediately follow with the top coat on the tape for the first coat. If a bubble is encountered because of an uneven surface, I put a slit in the Strait flex. Usually two coats of compound is sufficient.

As a Noob to taping, I'm intensely grateful for your process of highlighting the mistakes you make so that I may learn from them. While replacing the plaster in my 100+ year old house, I am considering using Strait-Flex for longevity.I think it's tear resistance will help prevent corner cracking. I'll let you know next year, after a couple hurricane seasons.

I've used this at the vaulted ceiling 1 1/2 years ago and am ready to use it again elsewhere. Strangely the kitchen was trimmed out where the adjoining rooms were not. Nice big gaps lay in wait when the trim was removed. Perfect for this application instead of back filling for me. It was good to see you use this and comment on build up. I appreciate you videos very much.

I use this stuff on all my small repairs. I bed it with 20 min and apply another coat right away with 20. It doesnt shrink so you skim it after it sets up with lightwieght and have it completely finished within an hour and it doesnt blister. Love this stuff

I have used this and I also had the edges of the tape needing to be buried because they were thicker than paper. In all, I also felt I was doing more steps to finish with this product. Great video. Thanks again from an Oklahoma Carpenter.

Thanks for the video ! I like this stuff. It actually makes it less work. I love using it for corners. Especially when the drywall work has been done badly, with big gaps in the corners.

I love straight flex for certain things... E.g. when building out boxes for medicine cabinets or recessed shelves... Like you said "small projects with new drywall" as I only use it when I am the one who built out the walls plum & square with new drywall! Once you get used to it it is actually an amazing product with some very unique use cases! Thought it was funny watching you go through pretty much an identical learning curve as I once had the 1st time I used it 😂😂 Definitely the 1st time I have wanted so badly to chime in during this episode to throw you pointers since I have watched quite a few of your videos lately & you're a machine when it comes to many drywalling techniques. It has been a pleasure watching your videos & the content you provide for people especially DIYers 😄 Keep up the good works!! 🍻

Thank you for always saying the type of mud you are using and then generally why. I think you usually assume if a person watches ONE of your videos, they can't possibly know what you've said in other videos. So ya - I appreciate it! Regarding Strait-Flex, I used this on my 1955 house to span a pretty large gap between a cathedral roof and the wall, odd angle but wide rigid tape. The funny thing is that I ran into the same problem of the tape coming out - I laid down a HEAVY embedding coat to keep it from moving around or coming lose after installing it. I haven't had any cracks in a few years so I'm guessing it's doing it's job? I've seen others use it for window casements which are prone to cracking out.

I can't say how much I appreciate your videos. as a pretty new DIY'er, I am working on my wife's she shed, I really learn a lot from your drywall/mudding videos.

I use straigh-flex on almost every repair job. However I use a compound tube, roller and 2 1/2” flusher. Second coat compound tube and 3 1/2” flusher.

Thanks for making your videos easy to watch. You come with some very interesting ways. I learn a lot from your videos. People think I have many years of finishing. Only started learning techniques from guys like you after having to patch work from wiring. Found I enjoy finishing as with other aspects in the construction field. Like to think I'm a jack of all master of none. LoL. Thanks again.

I really appreciate you videos its good to see how other guys do the job. Strait-Flex is definitely not for every application but there are situations where it shines, like where you have large gaps but for whatever reason don't want to prefill, or when the rock wasn't properly blocked and it has some flex. One of their products will also work as an outside corner in a pinch. I always keep a roll in the van so I don't have to stock bead for the unexpected. It really saved my back side recently on an older building with LARGE stress cracks both in corners and flats. It was a rush job and no time to prefill. The whole thing was done with hot mud and even ½" gaps ended up rock solid. This stuff definitely takes some practice and more work but once you get a handle on it it is not that much different then paper. It will score and snap with a utility knife so you don't need snips, it beds better with thicker mud and it needs heavy top coat. Keep the vids coming.

We’ve applied this dry as instructed but also tried wetting it. The wet applied seemed to produce a little smoother and tighter edge. And for the additional 10 sec in a bucket of water it seemed worth it. We use this stuff for off angles and ceiling inside corners (and sometimes on messy patches), wide paper backed metal for window/door outside corners and paper for everything else.

Straight Flex is most often used for off angles to keep the lines nice and "straight". It's completely unnecessary and expensive for normal 90 degree corners.

First, I love your videos they are VERY helpful. I am doing drywall for the first time (other than patches) and have learned allot. I bought this stuff on a whim and a role of paper tape. I am doing a small bathroom reno and the contractors really screwed up the walls, they tried to float them out with multipurpose and lightweight mud and of course it came out super uneven and cracked everywhere. Even to the point where I completly removed one of the walls. The other walls and cceiling I had to open backup to redo all the electrical and remount a vent fan, bring electrical boxes out of the walls, and remove flying splices, recenter the vanity light and re-mount the recessed medicine cabinet. The walls are pretty bad all over because they didn't know what they were doing. So I have spent days with an electric sander trying to fix them (one was over 2: thick at one part!). So I have been learning to float stuff out with hot mud etc. The walls are also plaster so patching is difficult to learn on, and harder to patch in the corners even using LOTS of shims. The contractors added so much mud they screwed up all the corners REALLY bad. They used mesh tape for the new corners and even left gaping holes in one of them. Anyways I decided to use this stuff to help give me a straight corner after scraping, pre-filling / forming with hot mud to the best of my abilities etc. Some are still a little wavey and I think this stuff really helped bring them straight. I did get a little lift off at the ends of a couple of them, where it just didn't want to stick down, and I'm hoping another coat over the top will be good enough. I also messed up not doing the 3 ways on the same day (ran out of time) but I think it will be alright. I don't think I would have done as well with paper tape considering the circumstances and because I am a newb. I do think these would take allot more time on a big job just due to how you have to measure them, but time is something I have when the whole renovation is having to be re-done on my own. All the walls are small too, I think this might be a little harder to apply on a longer wall?

I love this stuff especially in small bathrooms where the corners make up most of the taping. I'm not sure why you say it's slower. Saves time for me and the result looks really sharp.

I am doing a rehab and am using Perfect 90 by straitflex. Perfect crisp corners and easy to install. I would definately do a video using perfect 90. Thanks for the great tips !!!

Amazing skills and techniques. Thanks for all your videos.

I find that using a small corner style knife that hits both sides first, does a great job setting it, then a quick pass with a 4 inch to knock off excess mud

I am finishing an attic so it has twice as many corners as a normal room due to the knee walls. Most of them are 120 degrees, and whoever installed the drywall left about a 1/2 inch vertical gap so its more like two smaller angles that actually should be 120. I ended up ripping off the paper tape I applied and using this stuff as I just could NOT get the right angle with the paper tape. This stuff is a life saver!

I usually only use for decent size gaps in ceiling corners, like when the ceiling is redone or installed after the walls. Instead of packing the gap out using this stuff makes it faster in my opinion

You always manage to make working look like fun.

I used it on 45⁰ corners. Did one room with paper and the waves were really bad. Used flex tape in the second room, after it was recommended, and I was pleased with the result. I did have to build out some, but used the flex tape as a marker to float out the wall/ceiling and it looked nicer.

I actually LOLd when you said yoink off. Amazing!

I like it for outside corners only! It makes a nice crisp outside corner without a lot of build up.

I hung my own Sheetrock, but hired an experienced Dry-waller to come in to do the finish work. I bought the mud, some paper tape for the seems and some of this Strait-Flex tape for the corners and outside edges. He didn't really want to use the Strait-Flex tape, but I told him to give it a try. The corners and outer edges turned out fine, and everything looks pretty straight. He was an old-timer that pretty much wanted to do everything with paper; so I guess it's what you get used to.. When I remodel my bedroom this year; I'm gonna do the taping myself, and then use the Strait-Flex in the corners and outside edges; it looks like something I can do.

Useful as always. I hope you a productive new year ✌

I haven't had good experiences with strait-flex. I get the concept, it is stiff so keeps straight inside corners, but the flaw I found is it tends to pull away from the wall over time. Within a year or so after installation, you can see the tape bulging out of the corner a bit. It's hard to keep a straight corner with paper (unless you have professional tools), but it will stay buried if applied correctly.

Great on vaulted ceilings and gaps/uneven framing or hanging

That’s all I use on verticals anymore, but I prefer the medium weight (it’s green). With the mid weight, you just skim the face once and you’re done. I find with the original, you’re meant to just fill up to the beveled edge, and you have to fill it twice I find. The paper face is ready for paint. Also, we apply the mud with a compound tube, and then have another guy come behind with a roller and 3” corner flusher. They do make some that runs through a bazooka, but they tear our blades up so I’ve gotten away from it.

i use this stuff in a pinch for outside corners when doing handyman work where i dont want to run to the store. works well enough for that tailgate warranty ;)

I have used just about 100' and used it on outside corners over 5/8 drywall window frames, did one with wide paper metal & the other 6 with Strait Flex, for a beginner the flex looked better than metal. My real worry with metal bead is rust in a humid garage. Today I did a very uneven lap joint & it looks good. I did use SS stapes on a few corners that dog eared.

Thank you! Happy New Year! ☺

The last job I did the homeowner had a ceiling angle about 120 degrees it was the peak of the house and the tape cracked, replaced it with straight flex and it came out beautifully

Hello ! I use the Perfect 90, with a corner roller, great job !

I have used it and loved it vs paper tape the straight flex seems so much easier for me

My general rule: If it’s a reno/DIY drywall job, I ALWAYS use a Strait-Flex on both inside and outside corners. Inside corner’s first coat right after embedding with 6 inch knife. Second coat with 8 inch knife and you’re all done. Can use a tube and a flusher for coating. Outside corner both coats with a knive or a trowel. Evens up it’s price by saving a lot of time, material and a superior quality of the corners every time. I literally never had a bad corner using this stuff. Also, repairing Strait-Flex being in the corner is a lot easier than repairing a metal corner bead (which you basically have to just rip off and re-do the whole corner). The last thing want to mention is that Strait-Flex can absorb a surprisingly big amount of stress for a composite material (let’s say by hitting the outside corner) without a lot of damage. And even if there’s a damage, again, cut the damaged piece out and replace with another peace of Strait-Flex. It does require some time to find that sweet spot of using it when you see the advantages and start really saving your time. Thanks for the video!

I use it for corners in old houses with new drywall or redoing corners in plaster after removing wall paper. Only bc the corners are so far out it holds a fairly strait line. I prefer level line for outside corners on plaster though. I struggled with it bc as you said the corners built out, lots of corner sanding and touch ups. What I’ve found is to set the tape and let it dry then coat both sides at once staying out of the corner 1/4 inch using a 6 inch knife. Then sand the corner to get out lines and lift offs out and coat one side at a time with an 8 inch knife and it seems to leave a square corner that not noticeable

I used this back when I was a novice and found it really helpful then. Punching through the paper tape with the knife was a real problem for me at that time before a got more experience.

thank for all the tips!

When I have used it, I crease it back and forth 2-3 times to loosen up the fold line. Then I have also only used 90 durabond

Another excellent video, Ben. I was actually wondering if you'd ever touch StraightFlex. I am NOT a professional so I have only used this on off angles when my two sides are the factory, beveled edge. I don't have to get too worked up about blending it in at that point and it keeps a straight line. I find this is especially useful on the peak of cathedral/vaulted ceilings.

What do you think of the inside corner paper faced drywall corner? I don’t do drywall enough to keep up my drywall corner skills, but it seams to gave the advantages of paper tape with all the advantages of metal corner bead. It also finishes out with little buildup and you can do both side at the same time.

Only time I see this used is cathedral ceilings with more than 90* angles, we had an armature taper make a real mess of one on us and the guy that came to fix it used this stuff

You did a great job with the strait 90 flex tape. Try an eight or a ten inch knife to apply mud and wipe Down. 75 percent less work and time. That will be a major plus. They will never crack or split

ive never plastered in my life but after watching lots of your excellent vids I used this on my bathroom as thought it would be easier than using tape. My corners are sharp and looks so good. A good tip I saw is when you apply the second coat you dont need to go right into the crease, as long as you cover the holes and feather that edge you can stay away from the crease which will cause diyers less issues. A quick sand and all is flat and blended in perfectly.

Try the "Medium" series. It is smaller and easier to work with yet is bridging and still ultra strong. I use the straight flex for premium strength resisting cracking and bridging and straightening. If you are crafty it does not require face coating and can just be edge mudded and finished quickly. The perforations suck though.

Hi, I'm trying to skim coat over the textured walls in my condo. I've completed a few rooms and haven't been able to get clean corners. the angles of the corners aren't all 90 degrees. what tool(s) would you recommend for skim coating over textured corners to achieve smooth results?

I’m going to try this out, thought it was a bit expensive compared to reg tape

This area where I need to make several corners crisp and straight is what I've been looking for. I'm glad you covered this because it looks like I should use the tape. I have 8 rooms I have to straighten out. Thanks for this

You dont need cover the tape like paper tape. You can sand down to the straight flex and prime on the tape

3m adhesive spray works great with it!

It may add time for pro but it saves a lot of time and makes higher quality corner for slower DIY'ers and as you mentioned less likely to tear and less likely to have any cracks or separation down the road. Though I don't think that saying it is slower is a good conclusion giving you have done paper tape thousands of times and this is the first time you have used it. I am an occasional DIY and find this muuuch faster than paper tape, especially as I'm far more likely to get wrinkles, not straight line or rips with paper. I like Perfect 90 a little more vs Strait-Flex just due to paper on strait flex being a little less forgiving than Perfect 90 was.

I just installed that original crud on Sunday for an outside angled corner. The stuff kept popping out so I used a spray adhesive and it worked great, that’s the only way it works good. What do you use on those corners?

Any suggestions on taping an inside corner which is close to an outside corner where the tapes would over lap?

i love that shit it works so good on inside and outside corners, just read the instructions!

I used the vinyl straight flex that you have and it was a nightmare. I was doing off angle corners and I wish I got the metal straight flex

“You’re not going to tear this tape with your knife” lol. Tore first corner I did. Pressed too hard coming into a taper joint midway up the wall.

What product were you referring to when you said "use the bigger stuff for the off angles"? I need to tape an off angle corner. Thanks!

In the us they sell strait flex that’s different from that it looks more like level line or no coat, it works well but I’m still set on level line myself

Great video. What is the "bigger stuff" that you use for long "off angles"? BTW, I just used Strait-Flex Big-Stick for about 90 feet of outside corners, and it worked really well.

I used this tape for part of a job. Being a Noob, it gave me nice corners right away. As I became better, the price for this tape, as compared to paper tape, became really a disadvantage. I still use it, but sparingly.

this product is fantastic to do bulk heads outside corners, long runs no longer look like a snake. That is the only place i'd ever use the product.

Gawd, do we need more 'straightforward' in this world. I'll take it anywhere I can get it, and I found some here. Thanks for an excellent instruction; you're a good teacher. AND, you talk just like I do, so there's that. I mean, I invented the word "yoink" as far as I know, but somewhere in the 100's of million humans there are always repeats.

"Until the next one..........." I'll be skating 😁 Glad you took one for the team. No reason for me to use this stuff. But you know the guy down the road will be you on that bathroom 😉

When you sand the mud do you have to clean it with water before you mud again?

We’ve all suffered the same things you experienced in this video with this product.

I saw someone comment it’s super unnecessary for close to or regular 90 inside corners but from experience I can tell you working alone without any commercial tools other than a pan and knife or hawk and trowel I’d rather slap these on all day at a way faster rate. Rather then fiddling around with paper tape which can have numerous problems or failures even with experience yada yada the list goes on with the strait flex every corner will be perfect and even for an amateur taper it will be 10x faster and more durable to your knife at the end of the day! However you choose though good luck happy taping 😄

I first attached Strait-Flex using corner bead adhesive spray then went over it with joint compound after the adhesive dried. Doing so made life much easier for an unskilled homeowner like me.

Missed this post. Ive been working in renovation for several years. Well, we have a very similar product in Sweden. I´m a bit torn about when this is a superior product for a project / any project. I wouldn´t use it for outside corners, we have a product that is a combination of paper and a plastic coating, with holes all over, that you fold. Much easier. Mud on the inside, push it in, mud on the outside, feather the edges, build the rest of the wall. On an inside corner - it is still better in my opinion to use pre-folded paper strips. There´s no better product that I know of that gives a better reinforcement. Currently, I´m doing some renovation on my house. Here is a different matter - incompetent, bad builders has caused the house to sag on several places. - Masonite slabs in the living room, facing the garden. Masonite meets a wall of dry wall slabs. - A lof of sag in this place. Large masonite slabs screwed together with smaller slabs. All wall paper cracks. - Here is a major problem. I have cut up the edges and filled with a strong mounting glue, and a strong filler on top, then sanding. - Then mesh tape, mud over, and paper tape and mud on top. hopefully that works....... But again - not even here, do I see a need for this product.

It must just be what you're used too, because I can tape and finish with a similar product in about half the time as paper tape. If you're trying to install it like you would a paper tape you're gonna have a bad time and make a mess of it. Very different process, different tools, different mud/consistency, etc.

Using this in wet areas with high humidity is a good idea as it's mostly plastic fiber, paper and steel corners are a horrible idea if u r worried about mold and rust and defeats the purpose of using mold resistant drywall, I am even sometimes cocerned about using regular drywall screws

Ben - for the non-pro's among us; If YOU had to slow down and mess around with this, I cannot imagine how difficult it'll be for a DIYer to use. Not something I wanna mess with after watching this. Thanks

Should a beginner doing a single new room in a basement use paper tape OR strait-flex tape?

Strait flex is designed to just skim the outside edge of the tape with mud.

Can make corners need with this

I think you’re a bad actor...but in a really nice way!! You made me feel better knowing a pro made the same mistake by not properly folding prior to putting it in the corner! I made the EXACT mistake with this tape and didn’t fold it right before applying. It just kept coming off of the wall...so I hr to watch your other video about taking over a homeowner’s job to get it off!! Love your content!

This stuff is a hit when I use it with crappy framing or poorly hung drywall gets a perfect corner inside or out. Cost is a big one too corner bead is getting to 8 to 17 dollars a stick. I’m a fan for certain applications it’s my go to

What would happen if there is some air in the corner will it be ok

Is this mostly used in off angles?

Can u use strait flex big stick on inside corners?

Stupid question from a novice, how about gluing it in place with spray adhesive, like you would do with vinyl outside corner bead?

Nice 👍

If you ever get bored of your job , go into cake decorating. Your hands are perfect for that.

Slower?!?!?!?! I CRUUUUUIIIIISSSSSSSEEEEE with straightflex. I also not harder IMO when you use bead adhesive. Spray it, stick it, mud it usually done in one coat.

I can't believe it. Someone actually thinking of a future worker!

I use that all the time, good stuff. 👍 the paper cuts are horrible though. 😣

I did the same thing, didnt read the instructions, at first thought it was junk until I figured it out, worked great once I realized I'm an idiot.

I did this for odd angle corners. Its cheap too. 35 bucks for 100 feet.

Hi there! Awesome video as always. I have a question, maybe you have video like that already...I have a project, where I'll need to clean plaster ceiling ... What is the easiest and faster way?! Thanks for you suggestions.

Get you someone who looks at you like Ben when he snips.

All the tape has fallen off in my garage ceiling (and now the drywall is coming loose). I'm assuming it's from heat and humidity changes. Would this be more likely to stay put instead of paper tape?

Here is a question - why tape ceiling joints? Wouldn't trim cover the gaps there?

I used this stuff about 10 years ago on my 45 degree ceiling and wall joints. It is terrible. There are so many puckers in it now. I have replaced about half of it.

This stuff is so much easier than paper tape for beginners

I use this all the time when a homeowner hangs the drywall for themselves. It covers the gaps well without prefill and of course it straightens out the bad lines that amateurs leave behind. You can also staple it or some finish nails work if you dont have any staples on hand for the real tough spots. You can also glue it if need be. If you get in a snow bank this can also be used as a toe strap !!

You’re only supposed to mud the holes out outside of the tape and wipe clean. The corner of the tape is already smooth AND paintable!