Thanks will. Those are typically the best kind

i have heard of the relay throwing a 54 code. make sure to check wiring it maybe be shorting out somewhere

@@EfurdGarage checked wiring last night, all seemed fine. I replaced the relay and had the battery disconnected so the code would clear. So far hasn’t come back.

maybe a ground or issue with the ignition. i did have my new pump fail after 10 mins. here lately so new parts have been faulty

Grounds are what I'm going to check next. Possibly even an open somewhere in my power to the pump. I have 3 brand new pumps and can read power signal to the relay from the computer. Momentary. Then the relay cut back out. Has new ignition switch, ignition control module, fuel pump relay and oil switch. Quite certain I'm down to a short somewhere. Appreciate you getting back with me. Thank you sir. 🍻

@@brianfauver1790 yea and sounds like you already checked everything else. I dont think the knock sensor had an effect on the fuel relay.

​@@brianfauver1790 how did it go?

start by checking grounds and wires

If that was the only thing that was messed with in the process he wired it wrong or changing it exposed an already bad wire and just finished it off

i never used that to drain any fuel

@@EfurdGarage I'm just trying Find best way to empty the fuel tank.

@@davidjamesMKE there are several ways. I would just disconnect the lines by the tank and turn the key on. If you are replaceing the tank and not using that one drill a hole.

I cant answer all of this as i am not the greatest at electrical. But no the fuses should not be there what the battery is. a battery in a car/truck is 12 volts and over 500 amps. volts is not the same as amps so you measure the 12 volts it will not be the same as amps. The fuses are designed to break when voltage reaches the amp on the fuse for safety so they should be under that value. now it depends on ground and what is on and what it is powering it was the draw should be which sometimes you have to look up what the amp draw of that is ( i dont recall what the fuse is or what it goes to)

@EfurdGarage thanks for the reply, still having issues with the electric system but slowly learning this stuff myself, Thanks.

Ye if it kicked over with starter fluid its a fuel delivery issue. which could be the pump or related parts, injectors, or regulator. At the age of these trucks now replacing the stock components is a good idea. Nice dragon ball picture

@@EfurdGarage will run but kill over as soon as i let off on the go go juice lmao. Im assuming fuel pump cause i remember a burning smell before it keeled over and died.

But ill look into the injectors

@@EfurdGarage its a tbi chevy c1500 so im assuming it aint the throttle body

@@griffenatekevinbacon well those tbi have the regulator in them. But you can start with the pump and work your way up. You can get a gauge and put in the inlet line before the throttle body and check and see real quick if the pump is good. Or i just Usally lift the bed and take the outlet line off and turn the key on real quick to see if its even pumping. I have not had a burning smell from a pump. It would be odd to me to smell it seeing how its sealed in the tank. But some people have a different sense of smell then others

I have never been good at testing relays. they say there is a way with a volt meter but it has never worked for me

Jump the fuel pump with the relay connector, if the pump turns on you have a bad relay

your welcome

Being a tbi still it should be unless its later 95 and a cross over. Which if it is it would be in the fuse box under the hood like 96

@@EfurdGarage okay I'm going to check that tomorrow. In 95 alot of things were done weirdly. Iike the transmission is different from previous 94 and 96.

@@kyleguthrie4598 yea cross over years can be a pain. sometimes at parts stores you have to ask for a year before or after for parts

yea my fuel pump went bad with less then 7 miles on it. Of course this relay was almost 30yrs old so it was time for a change

...... No 😆 the brand new pump gave out with only 7 miles on it...

@@EfurdGarage let me give you a little advice from a guy that experienced this very same issue.. you're float assembly I'll bet has a little plastic piece the wiring goes through at the very top where you unhook everything to remove the pump. Often inside that old plastic the wire breaks causing no fuel delivery. It happened on my 94 and several others I've ran into over the years. When you pull the bed again turn the key on and tap on the plastic piece the wiring runs through on the top of the float mechanism. I'll bet that pump kicks in. You can get the entire float mechanism with wiring that plugs in later down the frame for just over 100 at advance auto. Maybe less at Rock Auto .I'll bet you can check your new pump out of the tank and it will work. I've been here lol you tap on that plastic where the wiring goes in the float assembly I'll bet it comes on while it's in the tank still. They nearly always do..

@@thecarguy2470 i did try that honestly. I checked all the wires. Then i put the old pump on real quick and it did just fine. Also seemed the rubber line that came with the new pump already got super soft. But got my money back for that one and got another new one in it and so far so good

@@EfurdGarage hope it wasn't an AutoZone pump lol I learned from that mistake 5 times later.

@@thecarguy2470 no 😆 i avoid auto zones o reilys and advanced autos whenever possiable

Ok, the fuel pump is an ignition source. Check to see if any other ignition sources are on while key is off then its the ignition. how long as this been going on?

New pump failed after the first 5 minutes of running. But that was also the original relay so it was time for a new one and the old one kept as a spare in the glove box

@@EfurdGarage I just got back in from the same issue. 94 chevy 4x4. I changed the tank and straps. Then the next day had to smack the tank for pump to work. So I put a new advanced auto pump in it. Guess what happened... nothing. I was all over the truck. Wires relays. Test light every thing.. was getting hot to fuse and relay. No pumping. After watching your vid and learning that new pumps are junk. I went and pulled pump today. Tested it with wires direct from battery and nothing. I kept tapping the wires onto pump and it finally came on. Put it back in tank and tested with key and it was pumping. It started up after that. Was a struggle on the ground with 3/4 full tank but I got it. Wow. Nearly set the truck on fire and walked away. Thanks man.

@@beefcattle1543 yea tanks are no fun. Anymore i just use my impact and move the bed. 2 of my cars have access panels for that reason.

@@EfurdGarage I dropped the driveshaft to get room to work. Got better things to do than work on a rusty truck. Has 350k miles still going.

@@beefcattle1543 people dog on those tbi's. They dont make the most power but they last. I had one in an s10 and it was still a fun little truck

check the wire to it and the ground. i think that is the starter relay. check fuses as well.

Because for 3/4 and suburban was up to 91 on the body. Gm has done that alot with trucks over the year. So where the typical c10 that you all call a square body was 73-87 for the half tons. The 3/4 carried over for several years. If you look back through the years there are alot of "carry overs" not just bodies but engines, transmissions etc.

@@EfurdGarage your absolutely right