After doing a dry fit to assure everything's right, disassemble and apply flux everywhere, reassemble, then solder. Have fun!

@@Teach2Build Thank you very much indeed. Very much appreciated. Going to put mine in a valve box in the front near the garage. I think the reduction from the high main line pressure will eventually save us some money. Let alone the peace of mind that the interior water fixtures are not under such high pressure strain.

@@Teach2Build A follow-up question if I may: How is it that the pipe sealant on the 2 threaded copper fittings is not damaged by the torch heat while soldering? I'm sure it's a real newbie q. Thx again.

I don't assemble anything requiring thread sealant until soldering is done.

Hey Enoch Page! Plumbers have a markup, usually 30 percent but I've seen MUCH higher, which prob explains most of the price difference. Expansion tanks are a good idea and are required by many local codes departments. I always install them with any new (tank) water heater install I do. Best of luck for you and your sister!

Code requires accessibility. You can purchase an access panel from your local big box store and use it to determine the size of your hole. They can be painted to match the wall. I prefer the spring loaded versions but the versions with a frame and snap in panel work fine, as well. Best of luck on your project!

Hello! You would use a slide coupler, which is a coupler with no internal 'stop'. You flux everything, slide the couple all the way onto one side, then back halfway onto the other side, and solder away. There's also a Sharkbite fitting you can use called a slip or repair fitting. Best of luck!

@@Teach2Build Thank you. Makes sense.

You can purchase adapters. You can do this!

Hard to say but I would guess not. There are so many variables that can affect a tankless! Reducing water flow, as you did by partially closing the shutoff, helps a little because the heater doesn't have to heat as much water in the same time frame. Things like whether it's electric (yikes) or gas (yay!), incoming water temperature, if it's mounted indoors or outside, on and on. It may even need repair internally, which is not really a DIY task. Sorry I don't have better news!

Yes, that's how it commonly gets implemented.

I believe PEX is rated for 160psi at 73° so it would take a pretty serious issue, which your water company would be responsible for...

3 years is pretty young for a prv to go out. I would screw a pressure guage onto a hose spigot and see if it's low. If it is, double check to make sure your main valve is all the way open, then check the adjustments on the prv. If this has always been the way it is, it could also be related to the supply line plumbing in the wall. Best of luck!

@Teach2Build this has been ongoing for the last two years and progressively getting worse. I will definitely test the pressure and adjust as needed. I will keep you posted. Thank you sir. 🤙🍻

Hey Penny! PRVs with 1" connections are available. I would avoid reducing the size until absolutely necessary. A quick search online should find you what you need. Best of luck!

@@Teach2Build Thanks so much for quick reply! I suspected reducing my main line pipe before the PRV was not a good idea, but that is how it was done before I bought the house. The reduction starts about 2 feet before the PRV, with a shut off valve in the middle of it. What kind of problems arise with my set-up? I do have fluctuations with psi up to 120; could this be the reason for the fluctuations?

Pressure variations of small amounts are most likely related to varying pressure from the street. Larger swings in pressure may very well be the prv, even though they usually just die altogether, shooting the pressure up. Reducing the line size to 3/4" isn't the end of the world, just not ideal.

@@Teach2Build Thanks again for the info! I just subscribed; I am also researching if check valves are needed on a hot water circulating pump with a dedicated return line.

Thx for subscribing! You will still want to use a check valve, even with a dedicated return line, as the flow could possibly reverse if the circulating pump stops, or fails internally. Do that research, and you'll get the right answer for your circumstances. Take care!

A couple things could be the problem. There might be debris on the o-ring seating surface, or the o-ring might have a nick in it, or is the wrong size or diameter. Hang in there. You'll fix it.

I'm afraid not. It sets a maximum. Now I've had them go bad and it was restricting pressure, so there was an increase in pressure with the new one in place, but that's not always the case. You may need a booster pump if your water pressure is below around 50psi. Best of luck with your project!

It would depend on if, in it's failure, it's restricting flow or not. Best practice would be to replace it as it could fail later in a way that restricts flow, but if it's not currently restricting for, the argument could be made that you could just add one after it, yes.

@@Teach2Build Its not restricting the flow and not leaking. The pressure is a bit too high at 80 psi and I want it to be about 55 psi. Thanks for your quick response.

Thanks so much for this informative video. It seems the only thing that you didn't show was how to solder the copper piping. Testing the water pressure at a silcock in my home it is 100 psi so I will need a PRV. My question is, am I responsibile to have one installed or is the city responsible? Miraculously enough, it doesn't look like there are any leaks or damages to my 30+ year-old poly-B plumbing. Is the city responsible if my pipes break because they turned up the pressure to 100 psi?

You can, if the valve is still operational. My experience has been that of the pressure increases, the valve has failed as it acts like a gate, reducing the pressure, regardless of the incoming pressure, so if the pressure jumps in the house, it's because the valve has failed.

@@Teach2Build thank you for that info. I've been sold a story it seems.

It could still need to be replaced

@@Teach2Build yes, it's possible, but it wasn't even checked or mentioned.

You would actually need to talk to your water company as they own the line up to the meter. If you're talking about a section after the meter but before your home, go for it. Best of luck with your project!

@@Teach2Build Ok so today I put the new ball valve/ PRV combo into the line! Could you help me with this question too please - So I removed the union (single union PRV) since I was connecting that side with a 1" brass nipple straight to the new ball valve; and with the water turned on I am getting a little moisture on that non-unioned side of the joint. Is this because I do need that union? I'm also pretty sure I've tightened it all I should. Unless using teflon tape only on the threads is a bad idea.. what would you suggest I try next? Thanks!

You may need to use some rectorseal on those threads as well. Mixing adapters can be tricky. Best of luck!

@@Teach2Build Much thanks! I will get that seal tomorrow- I just tried adding the union but it still leaks out the exact same threaded section. I'm going to replace the nipple with one that has more area to grab with a wrench too... Pray for me :0

@@Teach2Build To clarify, rectorseal is something I use alone, not in conjunction with threaded teflon....

The adapter that converts to copper?

Yes because I want to buy 2 on amazon

I don't think I've ever seen the adapters for the pressure regulator available separately. Best of luck!

In filming this series, I did try to avoid mentioning pricing, as I knew it would change over time, but sometimes I forgot. They were, in fact, $34 back then (2012). Should they have gone up 500% in ten years? No. Best of luck on your project.

Couldn't disagree more. Best of luck on your projects.

Your wrong Maga Man

Maga man is right!