TMC2208 guide - Stepper driver upgrades part 2

Рет қаралды 312,497

5 жыл бұрын

Continuing the series on stepper motor driver upgrades for your 3D printer, comes another highly requested video: a complete guide to the TMC2208.
Like the TMC2100, this driver offers very quiet operation with stealthchop2. It can be used in legacy mode as a drop in replacement, or configured using one time programming to be in spreadcycle. The best option is to connect it to your mainboard via UART and make dynamic changes to stepper current and stepper modes on the fly with gcode.
This video guide takes you step by step through how to configure for the three available modes, including setting microstepping, VREF and any Marlin firmware changes. This guide is to suit an MKS Gen L mainboard previously fitted to an Ender 3. There will be slight differences between 2208 board manufacturers but I've tried to account for those as much as possible.
As with the TMC2100s, you won't need TL smoothers or stepper motor dampers. You can also fit less of them (eg only X and Y axis) to save money.
In the next video, I will be tackling the TMC2130 in the same way, including SPI mode to enable sensorless homing.
2208 info: wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/
2208 datasheet: www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/as...
2208 configurator page: learn.watterott.com/silentste...
TMC Marlin reference: marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/tmc...
2100 / 2208 / 2130 comparison table: learn.watterott.com/silentste...
Trinamic guide to changing from A4988 to TMC2208: www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/as...
TMC2208 UART to MKS Gen L wiring diagram: imgur.com/a/pF7kZqQ
Keith Young’s comprehensive guide if you want to use mode 2 - OTP pre-programmed standalone. This involves connecting an external device and making permanent changes: • TMC2208
Sean Sadler’s comprehensive instructable to using the 2208 in dynamic UART (mode 3): www.instructables.com/id/UART...
Creality3D v1.1.2 stock vref values github gist: gist.github.com/knoopx/e6c40a...
Pronterface: www.pronterface.com
Purchase these drivers from the following links:
Amazon: amzn.to/2ExauT1
Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/mGm...
eBay Aus (select 2208): ebay.to/2XfvuF7
Aliexpress (select 2208): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bydGzszi
Premade Dupont /jumper wires set (Banggood): bit.ly/2I2WMez
Premade Dupont /jumper wires set (Amazon): amzn.to/2I4DTb9
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #upgrades #tmc2208

Пікірлер: 382

@PhilipSteinerYVR 5 жыл бұрын

Perfect timing, Michael! I just finished wiring up an MKS Gen L + TMC2208s on all 4 axes, this will help a lot with the Marlin config!

@Lozzie74 2 жыл бұрын

Dynamic reading of V-ref by clamping the positive terminal to the screwdriver was BRILLIANT! I was struggling to get it right and luckily searched online and found your vid.

@BitcoinOutLoud 5 жыл бұрын

Wow. You do an exceptionally good job here. Thanks for putting in the time to make such a streamlined, clear, and well thought out video.

@jasonflt 5 жыл бұрын

thank you for the break down, having more information and detail is a great help to understand what is needed. I don't mind seeing this style of video a little longer as it is need to get all that info in. looking forward to a conclusion video on what you feel is the best/simplest upgrade for the step driver. I do like having a quieter printer.

@spikekent 5 жыл бұрын

Fantastically detailed guide, thanks Michael. Only just had time to watch, on the plus side, I'm now going to watch the TMC2130 video.

@Thomllama 5 жыл бұрын

Can only say THANK YOU! all these stepper videos as well as the MKS GenLone were a massive help in getting my latest project printer up and running.!! keep up the great work!

@l3d-3dmaker58 5 жыл бұрын

finally, an informative video done by someone reputable with research behind it, thank you so much for this, as there's lots of very bad videos on KZfaq that misinform

@josemartin4431 5 жыл бұрын

My thoughts exactly. I'm very much looking forward to the TMC2130.

@foxabilo 5 жыл бұрын

got 4 x 2130's and a 1.4 arriving this week, so I look forward to the new guide, keep up the good work

@Ian-yi7ks 5 жыл бұрын

Yes! finally its here. Loving your guides Michael! Keep it up

@Reducer 5 жыл бұрын

Waiting for my stuff to arrive, then I'll be giving this a shot! Looks very nice to be able to use the 2208 as a drop-in replacement so I can test that swapping to a new controller board actually works before trying the UART mode.

@donovanpl 2 жыл бұрын

I got the v3.1 described on amazon as the UART version (silly me!!). Would you know how i can convert this to a standalone version?

@arminth 5 жыл бұрын

Great video! Special thanks to the last comment on using 2208 on extruder! Works just fine since months on my Ender even at high speeds using Klipper.

@CharlieBasta 2 жыл бұрын

OMG Michael comes through again. Needed to understand what UART mode means and this was what I needed. Thank you

@trippmotorsports4240 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael, first off, awesome videos. Started playing with 3D printing back in May and now I can't find enough time for all of the projects I have planned. One project is the SKR v1.3 32 bit upgrade for my Ender 3 pro. Thought I'd use the TMC 2208 drivers. Since I was using the BigTreeTech SKR figured it would be a good idea to use the drivers from the same company. After hours of research, reading and watching videos, come to find out the BigTreeTech TMC2208 do't have solder pads that need to be jumped across, they are already setup for UART mode. Just in case anyone else runs across this, might ave a bit of research. Keep up the good work and wish me luck on my Lowrider II.

@melissamdevries 4 жыл бұрын

thank you!

@deceitive3338 5 жыл бұрын

Excellent video Michael, and thanks for the shout out! I really want to give UART a try now, looks like the best of both worlds. Standalone mode is still working great but might as well get the most out of these, really happy with my purchase. In Marlin I made one change you didn't show, I replaced all of the A4988 for x/y/z/e with TMC2208_Standalone for Driver Type (14:10 in the video). I guess it's not necessary if you didn't change it, I saw it mentioned in another video but there doesn't seem to be any difference, so meh... Thanks again for all your hard work, this series is very well done, you've got a new patron! :)

@drfootleg 2 жыл бұрын

The information here about setting the stepper driver Vref was so helpful. Thank you!

@Abyssaal1 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this guide. Should be hooked under the guide seansadler.A piece of really good work.

@Pedro7526 5 жыл бұрын

Ohh I've been waiting for this one. Thanks for the video!

@B0M0A0K 5 жыл бұрын

Great video, thanks for posting. One suggestion, when soldering if you use flux you won't have as much hassle with getting that job done.

@55bess 5 жыл бұрын

Great job done, we appreciated it! Many thanks for the detailed video.

@chloemcholoe3280 5 жыл бұрын

a fine sharp soldering tip makes this 100x esier. i did it on my first try. also pro tip: bridge the two connectros and pull them when holding the soldering iron between them. not only does this makes pulling the pins out quicker but also lets you empty the holes easier!

@RobKruss 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you Michael. Just what I needed to know.

@johnbelsham8698 5 жыл бұрын

This was an awesome video. I have say that in defense of the lv8729, I spend 2 weeks and probably close to 50 hours trying to get my mks upgrade to ender 3 working after following your video and it would do everything but print the model, great purges, fantastic quiet skirts and brims, but everytime I got to the actual model, the 2208 caused the extruder stop dead or went imperceptibly slow. No matter what I tried (changes to marlin, different files that worked great right before, etc). I swaped the extruder to an LV8729 and immediately my extruder started working again perfectly. I should also mention that I had it setup to run in legacy mode, with out this I followed ruiraptor's guide which set x&a 1.19v and y to 1.26v. It seems crazy torquey and now I finally know why. Thanks again.

@TeachingTech 5 жыл бұрын

His guide is for the Tevo Tornado, which I'm sure would have bigger steppers. Possible that they or the driver was getting too hot and going into thermal shut down. I have a set of LV8729s on hand to test at some stage. i don't think there's anything wrong with them, I'm just not sold on the idea the the 2208 isn't up to the job.

@wuwisbrito 5 жыл бұрын

Justification for not using on Extruder is that Stealthchop is not compatible with Linear Advance. It's a documented Marlin issue. Prints will start, but the driver will crash mid print every time, appearing like a clog, but it actually stops moving the E motor. Everything resumes normal operation immediately after the print gets cancelled. Hard to troubleshoot. Yes, disabling Stealthchop fixes this, or disabling Linear Advance. However, there's no way to turn off Stealthchop on just the E driver.

@andyfairman7812 5 жыл бұрын

@@wuwisbrito I'm no expert (still learning) and I'm not 'for' or 'against' either approach regarding the extruder driver argument, but I just wanted to point out that in the latest Marlin bugfix 2.0.X, you can find the following lines in 'configuration.adv.h' which appear to allow you to disable Stealthchop for specific axis (SpreadCycle is used instead). /** * TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only * Use Trinamic's ultra quiet stepping mode. * When disabled, Marlin will use spreadCycle stepping mode. */ #define STEALTHCHOP_XY #define STEALTHCHOP_Z #define STEALTHCHOP_E

@wuwisbrito 5 жыл бұрын

@@andyfairman7812 thanks for replying and pointing that out. I hadn't checked on this but I'm glad there's some resolution in the works. I'll have to download that bugfix build and see if I can get Linear Advanced going without swapping out the 2208's. I bought some of the A4988's and put one on the E motor, I couldn't believe how loud it was after running the 2208's that I immediately removed them. Things worked well without Linear Advance, but I'm sure once I start using it again I may notice that they improve quality since I can print much faster with the 2208's. Thanks again!

@andyfairman7812 5 жыл бұрын

@@wuwisbrito Yeah, I've been going round and round for the last 2 weeks just trying to get my Ender 3 to print the same way it did before I replaced the control board with an SKR v1.3. I'm using TMC2208's in UART mode for X, Y, Z and and an LV8729 for E1. There isn't much info out there, so I'm not sure if I've got the current set right on my drivers. It could be Marlin 2.0 or something mechanical... Still fiddling around trying to figure it out...

@Magic3DPrinting 5 жыл бұрын

Loving your videos on drivers!!

@g.h.c855 4 жыл бұрын

HI Michael; great very useful video I applied it (combined with your excellent SKR guide) to my upgraded board and I am so pleased (haven't actually printed yet) cant get over how quiet the printer is now! One note though for others following this , I used the Kingprint TMC2208 (which are BIG TREE Tech) and purchased UART ready drivers; they seem to work but the direction was NOT reversed after all which seems weird but the ones I have are V3; so maybe that's a change to look out for? My upgrade would not have been impossible without your excellent videos so huge thank you from me.

@cap1sup 5 жыл бұрын

I can’t wait for the bigtreetech.com driver. I bought 4 of these and was lost when it came to how to set them up. Good luck and keep making videos, Michael!

@TeachingTech 5 жыл бұрын

The bigtreetech one is a pain to switch between spi and legacy. Multiple tiny pads need to be soldered.

@bzqp2 Жыл бұрын

Pretty cool. Not sure why I waited so many years with my update from A4988s to Trinamic. They are dirt cheap nowadays, definitely worth it.

@FrankClaycomb 4 жыл бұрын

Hey Michael. To bridge the pads just use a small piece of kynar wire. I find the easiest way is to cut a few inches of wire then strip it back. Hold the wore via the casing that is left and solder it on the pads to bridge. After soldered use your side cutters to remove the excess.

@JeanLucCoulon 5 жыл бұрын

The chip UNDER the board is the correct way to setup the board as far as thermal dissipation is concerned. The chip has a thermal dissipation surface underneath it and if mounted under the board, there is a copper part of the board surface exposed which allow to mount a heatsink. When mounted on top of the board, the dissipator is mounted on the case and not, by far, as efficient. Thank you for all the tricks.

@TeachingTech 5 жыл бұрын

Agree with you 100%.

@SvenPHX 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mike, very useful series as usual. I'd also love you to extend this, recommending which stepper driver for axis or extruder. There's a lot of misinformation there too.

@khunpoum 3 жыл бұрын

thank you for video. successful enable UART on tmc2208 (version with 3pads) via two wire on extruder stepper for LA (change driver mode to spreadCycle) via two wires and 1k resistor.

@IamVlanOne 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the detailed video. I went the UART route and wanted to keep the bigger heatsinks. I modified the heatsinks by removing the last fin with a mini hacksaw and filed the edge to make it smooth. Now the heatsink fits with the modified side facing the two pins soldered to the top of the board.

@Kevin-gh1cn 5 жыл бұрын

great info. I already had the MKS Gen L and the 2208 drivers running in legacy mode and it is a big difference in noise. My vref was a bit high so i adjusted that per your info. I have a spare board and drivers coming from BangGood, might have to try wiring them in for the dynamic option. I am having a strange issue however. The benchy i printed after i went to the MKS board and drivers has a wider rounded off "bow" line at the bottom of boat where the overhang is a bit more dramatic. This used to be clean and crisp before the board swap and i am printing the exact same gcode as previously printed. It is almost like the X axis was a bit sloppy changing direction so i removed the (pretty much useless anyway) stepper motor damper and that had no change. I had also added the Creality glass build plate when i swapped the boards and i was still manually trying to level the bed, so i threw in a BLTouch to try and make leveling more consistent, after tweaking the Z probe offset i have gotten a bit better results but the overhang part of the bow is still not nearly as crisp as the upper portion (or as previous pre-board swap prints). Is it possible the added weight of the glass build plate is messing with the Y axis direction changes? I do not notice any other issues in the print, bridging is great, corners are nice and crisp. I printed a half dozen calibration cubes (calibrating the xyz steps/mm) and all those corners were nice and sharp. Anything else i should try?

@anoble1 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks very much for posting this helpful guide!

@DanielKreimendahl 4 жыл бұрын

This is how that difficult soldering job is made super easy. Take about 8 inches of bare signal wire guage stranded. Dip one end of it in silver bearing solder paste ( I used SOLDER-IT, manufactured in Pleasantville, NY, purchased in a small syringe tube from Home Depot ). Set that end across the pads and touch it with your hot iron. Pull away the iron and wait a few seconds. Now twirl the excess wire, the stress will break the excess off leaving a pair of perfectly jumped solder pads. Done in seconds, easy and peasy.

@AminJorge 5 жыл бұрын

Can't wait for the TMC2130'S.

@RadPuppies 5 жыл бұрын

Are the voltage adjustments the same for the Ender-5 given it’s Creality 3D 42-40 Stepper Motor with Dual Shaft?

@mustakrakish6614 3 жыл бұрын

daaaamn... I was looking for this... I didn't know that you did a video on it.

@lestuia0 5 жыл бұрын

Awesome video!! I hope S curve and Linear advance are your next videos 😁

@simecekjann 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks Michael for this awesome guide, I've done this few weeks ago and it's been awesome, but it's always nice to clarify some things up :). Just as a side note, I have the 3-pad drivers from fystech and connected them through UART using the "Y" cables, by soldering together only the pads on either UART or PID pin. Also I'm with you on the LV8729 driver for the extruder, I personally have a spare one because all of the comments throughout forums, but personally never found any real justification other than "someone said or I heard..." so if you find anyone knows the real reason that would justify using LV8729 I'm all ears :)

@elmariachi5133 5 жыл бұрын

Wo, thank you! It was about time, for a good explanative howto on those drivers in dynamic mode. TS announced this about two years, ago, but he mast have forgotten about.. It would be great if you could do same for the 2130 drivers with SPI and sensor less homing. And then the problem if you run out of AUX ports, if you want to combine SPI with BL touch.

@lousmith1967 2 жыл бұрын

If I'm jumpering pads like the ones for the stepper motor drivers, I always use a strand of copper wire to insure connectivity and trim it using flush cut diagonal cutters. That has always helped me make the job a little quicker with good clean results.

@barryblack1411 2 жыл бұрын

Solder was not intended to jump gaps although it often accidently does :)

@lousmith1967 2 жыл бұрын

@@barryblack1411 I understand that. If there is a need for a broken trace repair, especially in a high powered application, as in a power amplifier, then, I'll user desoldering wick, scrape the coating off the traces and after that, spray the board with a conformal coating to ensure circuit safety. But, if it's a low current, short distance type repair that needs to be done, solder. Even though these little stepper drivers put out a decent amount of current, I don't think that particular jumper (solder-bridge) is a high current area is it? That, I truly do not know...

@avejst 5 жыл бұрын

Nice review, and walk-through Thanks for sharing :-)

@TheSinTi 5 жыл бұрын

This is a great guide as is almost all of your work, Thank you!!! I do have one question though I'm planing on doing all this, and using the TMC2208 v1.2 but I'd like to run 5 so I can setup a second extruder. Do you know where I could find the proper wiring for that type of setup for the uarts?

@victorknows 5 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael, thanks for the video! I would like to know how i should wire the second z stepper motor in UART mode on the Mks gen L if i am using the E1 port. As well as any tweak in pin number i would need to make in the firmware. Appreciate it

@giro2504 4 жыл бұрын

I would really like to know where you got the 1.77 in your formula @4:05. I just couldn't verify the 1.77 according to the data sheet provided by trinamic.

@Anarasha 4 жыл бұрын

To anyone watching this video currently: If you solder with a completely pointed solder tip(made for fine electronics) and use a 0.6mm solder wire at 350 degrees, the soldering process gets a million times easier. Also keep in mind, if you have the SKR 1.3 or another internal UART board, do NOT reverse pins to the topside.

@Rabbid0281 4 жыл бұрын

Running SKR v1.4T and tmc2208 v3.0 UART, have had some axis halts recently. I might not have setup the voltage correctly.. Followed your and BTT's videos for install, etc. OTherwise, when it prints, its super nice finishes, though occasional pauses do occur

@CraigBogun 5 жыл бұрын

If you are having a problem with the z axis screw at that low height you could always flip the screw upside down because who really uses that very top part of the print volume.

@TeachingTech 5 жыл бұрын

Tried that before the test prints in this video but nothing really changed. I guess it's the nut.

@nagibochnik23 5 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech About these vertical ripples on your benchy on 10:36 of your video - it might be not a damage of your lead screw. I have same problems on my Ender, and I was interested in solving this problem and possibly found the solution in this video of German guy Stefan (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ec6RpLeE39i9mn0.html) on 4:55 of timing he claims that problem is in Coasting distance and Wiping distance. But unfortunately I couldn't apply(use) it because I dont have Simplify 3d - it's too expensive just like the cost of my printer - maybe you will try and share your experience to us.

@CraigBogun 5 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech ahh, then you might have some build up on the rails. I had to pull the rollers off and smooth them down as some ridges had formed and also scrub the rails down to get them smoothly running. It was a pain but it gave good results.

@saschathiede 5 жыл бұрын

I have the Tevo tarantula and all my problems with a not straight lead screw were solved by getting a stepper with an integrated lead screw.

@LeeWasilenko 5 жыл бұрын

At 3:14 you take out the third jumper, this is in the Legacy setup part of the video but this applies to all 3 modes equally, correct?

@macelius 3 жыл бұрын

A couple of the A4998s in my FLSun i3 finally died (after 3 years of abuse) and man, these things are like butter, and actually running cooler than the original stepsticks (with the heatsink fins aligned vertically and no active cooling).

@bzqp2 Жыл бұрын

How hard did you drive them? I'm pushing my A4988s pretty hard (powering 2 NEMA 17s with one stepstick at 1.1V) and never saw a failure in 6 years of use. :o

@macelius Жыл бұрын

@@bzqp2 Not particularily hard, probably pretty much the same as you; .9 or 1v on x & y and about 1.1v on Z (dual motor but standard fare) and the extruder. I just ran the heck out of my printer the first few years lol. Been through a few sets of belts, the extruder motor also died since, and it could probably use another set of bearings.

@TheSinTi 4 жыл бұрын

I followed your guide, Thank you fo all your guides BTW I love them all, I decided to do option 3 and connect my 2208s in serial mode on an MKS Gen-L, but almost every time I use M122 I seem to get different results, did I do somethign wrong or is it normal? Also when I try in Marlin 2.0 I can never get M122 to report serial mode, it's always false, is this normal?

@247hinkey 5 жыл бұрын

Great video - but having problems using this setup with RE-ARM and ramps 1.6+ - not sure what pins I would connect as I feel there are no pins left (RX/TX). Searched the internet for answers / Facebook, but no conclusion.

@possuumm 5 жыл бұрын

Hi! My TMC2208s from Gowoops have no jumper pads, so I can't bridge them. How do I run them in UART?

@NorthGaSawyer 5 жыл бұрын

Did you have stepper motor dampers on for this video? Would you still recommend using dampers if upgrading to the silent stepper drivers?

@cfletcher1856 5 жыл бұрын

Can you think of any reason why when sending the m122 command the set current returned is still 800 even after a successful flash with the 760 values?

@makespace8483 5 жыл бұрын

Very helpful. Thanks for posting.

@juanpablolopezalzate3987 5 жыл бұрын

hello good day you know how it would be the configuration of this tmc2208 v3 for a anycubic i3 mega serious help

@novaleary4488 5 жыл бұрын

Just finished setting up these for the SKR V1.3. I had to do things alittle differently because of the firmware requirments (had to use visual studio and platformIO)

@BladeDreams 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much! Precise and exact information, all in one, with everything anyone would need to setup any of the 3 modes! I personally will be trying Mode 1 first as only a software change needed. I can always switch to URT at anytime should I decide to. I am also with you on Mode 2 - why would anyone do this? Thank you again! :)

@BladeDreams 5 жыл бұрын

sadly, on the Anycubic Chiron in stealthchop2 mode - it skips so much layer shift is unusable. tested from0.07 VRef up to 1.86. higher was better - but still happens - At least in my case. trying UART mode next.

@tomcypher3864 5 жыл бұрын

Hi! Is it complicated to add a toggle for stealthChop/SpreadCycle for all steppers to the printer menus?

@byseven 5 жыл бұрын

Awesome Video . Is there any benefit to use 2 drivers for the to Z motors (Z and E1) would it align the gantry ? using bltouch ? I have found not found , any thing about controlling the 2 Zs with 2 drivers and using the BLtouch to align them.

@anenkris 5 жыл бұрын

Followed everything to the letter. When I connect to the board and do M122 the drivers are all disabled and driver register are all 00. The board is not yet connected to a power supply, only usb to test. Is this the reason of my problem?

@feiticeir0 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the video. Very very informative. I'm having a problem that, every time I issue M122, I get different results for Driver registers - sometimes all zeros, sometimes no.. What's going on ?

@CristianCarranza 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael!, thank for your videos. I wanted to ask you a question, I have a artillery printer and I changed the mother for a skr 1.3 with 2208 motor drivers configured in UART, all the divers are registered OK, even the I2 Z, but I can't move the extruder motor, I try to change them position, putting the X axis in the extruder and the result is the same, so choose to put a driver LV8729, at 16 micro steps, just like the TMC2208, the LV8729 makes the extruder motor work well, but I want to know Why does TMC 2208 work for me in the extruder, any suggestions?

@CuguTuxo 5 жыл бұрын

very useful series thanks!

@jdcamc 5 жыл бұрын

I am wanting to put the TMC2208 on my Ramps 1.4 board. Which jumpers do I remove, if any? Thanks!

@mugs500 5 жыл бұрын

Can you also run higher voltage to the steppers in uart mode?

@FedericoSalis 5 жыл бұрын

but for the ender 3 1.1.4 board, how set TMC2208 in Marlin ?

@dkingst5 5 жыл бұрын

Maybe an odd question but if you go with the third option to program it with software... Is it maybe still a good practice to set the vref with the screw to the proper value? I only ask because you mentioned if it doesn't connect then it defaults to the legacy configuration and wouldn't that then use the vref from the setting on the screw? Or am I just not grasping it correctly?

@mlynch001 5 жыл бұрын

Michael, You mention that you need to see the driver registers on M122 with something beside Zeros or "F"'s. There are certain instances where a properly connected Driver will show all ZEROS. You had me freaked out until I started the printer and hit M122 and saw that the drivers were indeed communicating. Some 2208 clones have the chip on the top side, this allows you to use a slightly different configuration. I use TMC2208 on X and Y and then DRV8825 on E and Z. I have 2 ENDER 3's running with this mod. QUITE, QUIET, QUIET! Great Video.

@TeachingTech 5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing that info. In my testing it was consistent but good to know.

@mlynch001 5 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech I found that you may need to key in the M122 twice. I was reading somewhere that the M122 command only reads one driver at a time, so I suppose it is possible that the other can show all Zeros?? This happened to me a couple of times. The absolute test to verify that the communication is happening is to see if your M906 or M913 command actually changes the driver configuration. Obviously, if it does, then you have proper communication. I really have learned a lot from your teaching videos, keep up the good work and Thank you!

@mlynch001 5 жыл бұрын

@@TeachingTech And I do not doubt that you are correct, that is why I nearly had a heart attack! I just needed to dig a little deeper to make sure that my machine was actually working correctly. Just wanted to mention this to possibly save other people from being fooled by their particular machine's performance.

@LeeWasilenko 5 жыл бұрын

@@mlynch001 thanks for this - I have a two pad 2208 breakout and am having an issue like this - M122 reports inconsistent values every time I run it so I'm having trouble confirming whether or not they are operating correctly. I've posted in the Creality Official Ender-3 Ender-3 pro 3D Printer Group facebook group more details. Hopefully someone there can share their experience as well.

@mlynch001 5 жыл бұрын

@@LeeWasilenko I have been using these 2208 drivers and boards for about 4 months, I find that the M122 does return consistently strange results, especially when printing. I get all zeroes on one driver upon one M122 and then all zeros on the other one on the next M122 command. Then sometimes it will return addresses for both drivers. It seems that the Serial Bus gets busy and cannot return the port address for both drivers within the allotted time. I find that when the printer is idle, that M122 fairly consistently returns the correct port status, both showing active addresses at that time. I confirmed that the drivers are communication by sending the M906 X*** Y*** command to alter the motor current or the M913 X**** Y**** command to alter the hybrid threshold. Since these commands do seem to actually change the stepper drivers and motors performance, this confirms that they are working and communicating, even though the address does show all zeros on occasion. The changes made to the drivers as stated above also show up on the M503 system summary.

5 жыл бұрын

I've seen guides saying you should set the vref on the TMC2208s to the same voltage as the original noisy Ender 3 drivers had. I'm confused, as this guide says otherwise. Any thoughts?

@jasonvoorhees9585 5 жыл бұрын

Thank you for doing this brother 👊👊👊

@colinraines395 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael Will this set up apply in ATOM

@ricklegaspi4559 4 жыл бұрын

I've installed my 2208 drivers on my ender 3 with an skr v1.3. I'm trying to run them in legacy mode. They seem to move twice as far as they should. Any suggestions?

@DavidRelich 5 жыл бұрын

Great vid, as always. I have a Fysetc v 1.2 TMC2208 boards (three pads), which have a PDN and UART pins instead of PDN and NC. Not sure what to do with them? Don't want to burn the boards, haha. Thanks.

@George-xe5lc 5 жыл бұрын

what about if you get the tmc2208 that has the pins on the top and the bottom? do you use the jumper wires or no? uart or standalone?

@Lucas_sGarage 5 жыл бұрын

Well i can put the small heatsink with a blower (5015) in the mode 1?

@ksprashutv 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot for this. In the VREF calculation for 4988 you used the resistance value. Isn't that necessary for the RMS based calculation for the 2208 drivers? I'm asking because the E3 V2 has a 150 ohm resistor and not a 100 ohm as in the video you have in part 1.

@NatJev 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael thanks for the video. i got the TMC2208 from the ebay link. i am not sure how to adjust the VREF with the Trimpot. There doesnt seem to be a screw in the top of the chip but it is underneath?

@frankl1955 5 жыл бұрын

Great video, thanks. Would this be a drop in replacement for a DRV8825?

@AL3X36000 4 жыл бұрын

hi, thanks for your video, but what is the point of doing the mode 2 and 3 ?? the one is not sufficient ?

@simontillema5599 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the explanation. Do you know any way on how to tweak it to use a TMC UART with this board? Kind regards, Simon

@bennguyen1313 4 жыл бұрын

Why is it necessary to jumper the 2 wires from the AUX header to the driver TMC2208 board's CFG pins? What exactly does this do?

@Aldineyer 4 жыл бұрын

How much do smaller heatsinks limit the stepper drivers? That might be something interesting to investigate.

@acekozmo 4 жыл бұрын

I did option one and when I print the first layer the nozzle is touching the bed when it used to not. Did reversing the motor direction in the firmware also reverse the z offset to cause this? I can not think of what else to change to fix this. I’m in marlin 2.0 on a robo 3d r1+ that I’ve done a ton of modifying to.

@talldarkazn 5 жыл бұрын

The reason some including me choose the lv8729 is because the tmc2208 shuts down in stealthchop2 when using either linear advance or pressure advance.

@mattgildon4776 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Michael, I'm following this guide, I can't figure out how to do the step at 12.28 on Atom?

@mlandes2008 5 жыл бұрын

Hi. Could you please advise if to use TMC2208 UART on z-axis and Extruder on MKS GEN L ? also what are the vref for Ender-5 ? Thanks

@jeremiasarrieta975 3 жыл бұрын

for an ender 3 v2 that has a board with 2208 integrated, would they be the same values?

@kevint6223 3 жыл бұрын

I need some help please! I am trying to set these up on a Mks sgen L 1.0. Which pins do you need to jump on the board to use these drivers on "mode 1" ?

@victorreppeto7050 2 жыл бұрын

if I mechanically gear a motor down will it have the same smoothing effect as microstepping? Will 4 to one ratio provide enough accuracy combine with full stepping driver.? (eg::no layer lines when cutting a circle with cnc)

@goatmaster3387 5 жыл бұрын

Can you please do the 2130s on your A10M?

@ransombot 4 жыл бұрын

Appears the 2208 stepper lib is now TMCStepper when searching for it in atom/arduino if your looking for it today.

@rodrigoescalante7680 4 жыл бұрын

hi recently i bought the MKS Gen L V2 board and five TMC2208 V3 UART (bigtreetech), but they don't work in UART mode :(

@macelius 3 жыл бұрын

If you have two motors on z axis, do you add up their max amperage (then divide by 1.41) to get RMS for that axis?

@Lozzie74 2 жыл бұрын

I just upgraded to 2208 stepper drivers on my AC Chiron today. I haven’t set-up firmware access yet so I reversed all motor directions by swapping two wires on each plug. Thanks for the info on Vref. What are the implications of getting this wrong?

@trentwv 4 жыл бұрын

Questions: I ordered 2208's but they have extended pins sticking up as well as going down, will it be ok with those plugging into the socket below as well or do i need to remove the bottom portion? also what's the point in the 1k resistor? what's that do? thanks!