Every time I hear the intro I think aww yeee time to learn how to do some random 3d printing thing

I just discovered the M206 yesterday and got a lot of space back! This is one of those GOLD videos! thanks for posting!

Yesterday i had a lot of trouble trying to print a very large print in my Ender 3 and did some trial and error to manage to print it, this video would have been very helpful.

That was clever, using t-nuts to reposition the y rail. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you this fixed my 2 year problem. Absolute mint. Always tried to fix it in firmware never thought about 5he physical location

Great video! I've been messing with this after installing the Microswiss. They have a file but it doesn't work for my machine and even though this seems like something that should be easy to fix it has been hard for me to find a solution. This video puts all the solutions in one spot and makes it easy, thanks Michael.

Loving the Jimmy Broadbent t-shirt!

Dude...... this has bothered me forever and a day!!! Thanks for posting!!! You just saved me so many headaches over and over again!!!

Just assembled my SK-Go2, this video came just in time. Thanks Michael!

Another great video, loved seeing the BIQU BX in another video. I can't wait until I get mine!

2 years later and it's still incredibly useful information that's really going to help me with my biqu h2 v2s revo and hermit crab installation

Thanks man! Your videos are always so informative and a great resource for fixing issues in the printing community! Cheers

Thanks Michael! I've been needing to get this done on my ender 3 for some months, but couldn't quite figure out the correct G-code. This will probably do the trick!

Thanks Michael - after upgrading my ender 5 pro to a direct extruder kit that had different rollers - this meant the x-axis microswitch didn't work in the same spot. The ender 5 pro didn't have an adjustment, but i found that a T-slot nut did the trick. Thanks for your vid.

Oh mr. Mike !! Where was this video ages ago lol I have struggled with this with my first printer my wonderful ender 3 and could not find any help online !!! Ty so much you have been an essential key to my road down additive manufacturing on many topics please keep them coming!

My first go-to is the M206. I used that quite a few times on my overly modified Anet A8 that now has the aluminum extrusion AM8 upgrade. Seems much easier to do than the physical modifications to the frame.

Literally the exact video I need at this exact moment in my life!!!

Finally someone explained this properly. Thanks buddy!!! 😁

Woot.. I just got finished adding linear rails onto my ender (which I also modded to have a E3D V6 clone on it) and I moved my Y axis extrusion forward to get my full Y travel back.. works like a charm!

Thank you. I learn so much from your channel.

I actually dont know how I will solve the problem yet but I need to tellyou that your video was really helpful! It showed me my options and what the problem actually is. The only thing that could be a bit more deep covering is where the home point should be lol. But again Thank you for your time and effort

Hey Just a quick note of thanks. I'm rebuilding my AM8 and needed to get this part sorted. Thanks for the help!

Thanks for your video, very useful !

Great video, gave me a few ideas.

Thanks. This should help me get my printers back in check.

M206 FTW Sir, thanks much for this one 👍👍

In Marlin firmware you can also use: #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS -5 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS -9 Once you load the firmware, you just have to restore to defaults and store.

Excellent video. Made setting up my ender 3 with biqu h2 easy. Thanks so much

You also can do a G92 home offset in Cura for your specific printer!

Thanks it helped a lot 😁 your the best!

Neat modifications!

I got all excited by the Prusa Mini in the thumbnail, only to find it missing in the video.

Nice! Just bought a new hotend, so I need to do this

Installed a new extruder setup on my self made printer. Had to completely replace the aluminum on the X axis, it just wasn't long enough anymore. Also had to move the linear rails down something near 30mm. Was a rather large change, with nearly all components moved down a ways.

Nice. Never new what the offset was for

Thanks for saving my 3d printer.... again.

Fantastic videos

First View! Thanks so much for creating this video, not that I have this problem, but I will probably enable workspace offsets, in case something ever does happen.

There is also the option to set home offsets from the LCD screen.

I did put a Hero Me Gen 5 on an Ender 3 Pro - I would never thought to replace bolts that go into tapped holes to shorter bolts with T nuts, I have those parts, so probably will make this modification and get my 20 mm of Y length back. Thanks for the idea, as well as the other advice!

THANK YOU!

I've actually done this out of boredom on my Ender 3pro some time ago, managed to squeeze out a 235*237 from the bed. Worthy mod if using a glass bed/ABL, otherwise it will turn into a bed adhesion nightmare at the edges.

I've been needing to do this, thanks for including the G.Code way of doing it. My problem is just that Prusa Slicer has my Y axis WAY wrong on my Ender 3, but Cura has it correct. So I've had a few print failures with Prusa Slicer. I like it overall but have been manually moving my prints "back" on the bed (and losing print volume).

love the shirt !

Thank you sir.

i love your videos when mine is done printing i will trouble shoot. my ender 5 is printing in the left bottom corner and cutting the print at the edge of the bed.

I've been doing this with a combination of G92. It's just a matter of measuring how far off the 0,0 is from expectations. My latest friend of 3D printing has been aluminum tape. I put a small bit of aluminum tape on the front left corner. G28 M211 S0 (turn off software end stops) G0 X0 Y0 Z0 Then, babystep X, Y to add close as you can to 0,0. If either is inset on the bed and you can't move out at all, babystep Z down to the tape and move it along that axis to mark the tape. Then, use your calipers to mark how far inset your axis is. For me, homing X,Y puts me 3.5mm in from the left edge of the bed, but Y is 2mm out in the air in front. So, once I babystepped Y to actual zero, I entered G92 Y0 This told the printer that spot was zero. Then, I moved Z down to the tape so it was just enough to mark it, and babystepped Y back about 10-15mm. I then moved the nozzle carriage out of the way and was easily able to get an accurate build plate to X offset. (Note: you may want to check the back left corner too in case your frame is crooked.) Then, I just use the M206 method in the video. Two things: G92 can also be used to reset your Z0 height. Aluminum tape "scratching" is a great help for measuring your M851 offsets.

How could you forget M428? 😀 My favorite insta-fix for adjusting home offsets. Move the nozzle to where you want 0,0,0 to be, enter M428 and presto you're done. M500 Saves.

Lol , was just trying to figure this out last night.

I did it numerous times the correct way.. But it just worked after storing it with the eeprom 🤦‍♂️ Thanks for the reminding help! 😅

I was googling this exact issue an hour ago... are you watching me @teaching tech?!

Merci !

perfect ! But can you do it for a klipper way ?

So in short When you home X,Y (display reads 0,0 ) if the nozzle is off the bed it's software (min X, POS ) If the nozzle is on the bed at 0,0 it's hardware endstop that needs to be moved. You want position 0,0 to be on the bed. What about max positions. For ABL ? You want to be able to print in that area but if the probe is on left of hotend you still need to be able to move the X,Y more than max of where nozzle is ????

How would you do this in klipper? I have the Micro swiss direct drive kit for the ender 3 and my x is -5 and y is -10. I was wondering if there was an option.

I mounted a paper on the print bed and, marking corner to corner, mad an X. I drew up an open, hollow X made an stl and printed it. I measured the distance off, changed the bed dimensions in cura and repeated, if needed until the drawn X was perfectly in the printed X. I doubled the dimensional changes in the printer setup an prints perfectly. I just need to never print larger than the bed. I can truly print 300mm x 300mm on my U20 ONE

Thanks to your videos and positive attitude, I have over come my fears of trying VScode and compiling my own firmware. so i just line up the tip with the corner of the bed and measure the distance traveled. then update firmware. Also do you think the Lerdge K main board would be a good fit for a low rider 2 project? I was just thinking that it's configurable from the touch screen and supports enough drivers. I would love to know what you think about it.

Please no punterino Jimmer!

Can you do a video on what to do if you home z in the middle of the bed and not the corner?

Great video as always. Has helped me with my ender. Now just need a Lerdge config file for Tevo Little Monster. Anyone able to help?

Give that man a Knighthood

How do you set the home position to include bed leveling? A new print head on my Ender 3 hanging over 10mm off the front of the bed. When I try to mesh level the first five point are in mid air. And I'm unable to level properly.

Will this work if I'm using a bl touch not and end stop for z axis

please no punterino jimmer

Perfection size is properly measured

I have the new Creality touchscreen on my Ender 3 Pro and so I don't have the option to change the home offsets on the machine. How can you do this over pronterface?

how do I change the home position on an ender 6 the home position is in the middle.

Tried M206 to offset 8mm on the Y axis. Didn't work. Probably got the no_offsets setting on the original creality fw on a cr10s pro v2.

Thank you, I was able to get my bed right were I needed it with the help of this video!!!! Keep up the great work! TYTYTYTYTYTY

How does one make similar firmware adjustments in klipper?

I have a Two Trees Sapphire Pro. Its my first and only 3D printer so far but I think its pretty awesome. Its stated build plate size is: 235 x 235 x 235 mm I am printing something that is 220mm x 90mm Rectangular. Cura won't allow me to print it unless I scale it to 99% and align it diagonally. I have checked the Home position and its right in the corner actually outside of the grid on my build plate. When I had the print with x = 0 and y = 0 in Cura it was cropping two of the corners. I changed the alignment in cura to x= -4 and y=4. Now it is printing without cropping however I want it to print full size and not have the offset problems. I have not modified my printer. I have never played with Marlin I'm pretty new to 3D printing. Any suggestions on making this thing work like intended? Thanks.

Hey can you make a video on how can we add power cut resume feature to our 3d printer

Ha nice shirt I have the same in a hoodie version

i put 300mm rods on my ender 3, so its 235 on x and y, and 300 on z. but its always about 30mm short of hitting the full 300mm when i raise z all the way. in the screen it shows 300mm, and marlin in visual code shows its 300mm tall as well. how can i make sure i take advantage of the full 300mm height, and regain those 30mm?

Is it possible, to print somethoing which is just 4 mm bigger than my plate? (fitting a bigger glass of course to print to) The axis movement would cover the travels needed, so how can I tell the printer to work in Y 230 mm instead of 220?

Hi Michael, It would be a good idea to also flag that if you have a BL touch or proximity sensor to also ensure this touches the bed too. I just upgraded my cr10s pro to the new spider hotend and housing and the bl touch design ment the bl touch was off the bed. On testing the hotend positioned correctly on the bed and when homing the hotend scratched the glass bed and almost damaged the mounts because the bl touch could not touch a flat surface.

I never thought this was a problem I always learn something new

I had no idea that homing the printer had to go to the left hand corner. thought it was suppose to be just off to the side. if I set x & y like in the video but dont flash the firmware will that work too?

Can I physically lock my x axes so it don't move when changing filament.

Hi Michael I have a cr10s pro v2 with custom firmware I've installed a microswiss direct drive extruder, issues I'm having is x axis isn't adjustable as nozzle going too far to edge of bed hitting build plate clips, also when probing with bl touch on a print file it probes and just stops won't print tried reflashing boars firmware also screen, still won't print what is the gcode commands to enter in Pronto to adjust the build plate volume as should be 300x300x400

HI, idk if anyone will have an answer, but I followed everything he said and didn't make any drastic changes to the settings of my ender 3 pro 3d printer. But it just prints to the whole left edge of the bed, it wont print anywhere else and idk what to do...anyone know what to do? what settings? what am I doing wrong? :(

My problem is that my 0.0 goes to the front left corner ok, but when it moves to the center it's way off> Can't figure out how to correct that.

I am on an Ender 3 using SXR E3 v2 and I changed the X_MIN_POS and the Y_MIN_POS. To line up with what I see (-30y and -10x) but when I autohome I don't see it at -30, -10 I see it in the normal spot and the display shows 0,0. I am on the newest version of marlin. Any idea what I might be missing.

So what is the "Home Offset" setting on the LCD in an Ender 3 for ? Sounds deceptively like you just need to input the x,y error values using that feature/command and you're done. But I can't seem to make "Home Offset" do ANYTHING. What IS IT ?

What if the nozzle was INSIDE the buildplate instead of outside the buildplate?

is this a jimmy broadbent shirt?! :D

new mission: increasing my Ender 5 build size to 233x233mm, wish me luck

On one of my Ender 3 printers, the purge line is printed right on the edge of the left-hand side of the build plate, the limit switch is not adjustable on the X-axis, what do you think would be the best solution to this problem? A. add a piece of plastic to the side of the hot-end assembly to trigger the sensor early. B. change the min settings in firmware.

So your telling me to use marlin I have to dismantle my entire printer and change how it sits? So the nozzle is correct?

Ok, scary. My CR10S was also -20 and -30. lol

Why not just adjust the bed position in the slicer instead of messing with the firmware?

Also, with ABL an offset on the bed can screw up leveling since the grid thinks it is at 0,0 but it isn't really

My fix was easy. I just loosen 2 screws on each endstop and moved the X and Y endstops to the correct position. If you can not do that then i think you have a bad designed printer. My (problem) is more probe related. I do have 2 printheads installed. 25 25 mm (Nozzle to nozzle 50mm) My probe does look like this: N-------------P-------------N (N=Nozzle, P=BLTouch probe) The problem is that i can probe about 5 mm away from the right-edge of the bed bud the left i can not probe less then 40 mm of the bed-edge. It lookes like this: L R | N-------------P-------------N | Right bed probe | N-------------P-------------N | Left bed probe (more space on the left) As you can see does the probe reach the right edge of the bed but the probe can not go to the left edge of the bed. I can move the probe manualy to the left edge of the bed so fisicaly there is no problem probing the complete bed area. Question: How do i configure the nozzle to probe offset? #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 25, 0, 0 } // (Nozzle to nozzle = 50mm, 25mm left & right of the probe) Is the probe offset calculated from the left or the richt nozzle? What does determine the probe to bed-edge distance? Can somewone show me what i must do to correct this difference? Thank you

Michael Vampire confirmed. Vampires need to check and align their teeth so they can find the blood vessels straight. It's painful for a guest to have several bites in order to find the blood. Thank you Michael, you're so subtle. Have a nice day. Edit: of course some vampires prefer to drink into blood bags and suck the liquid from a tube. Like we could watch in Supernatural.

Come on, what sim is your favourite? Pls No Punterino, Jimmer.

Can I lo

I’ve watched 14 ads for this video and have yet to see it.

Very happy 😍💋 💝💖♥️❤️

You're the best, in process of upgrading my Ender 5 Pro, just converted to a cheap direct drive and will be updating to a 32 bit board soon and then possibly convert the whole thing to a cheap Core XY. Sure no Rat Rig or Voron 2.4 but it will give me options to run faster.