I love building transmissions because I have always found the engineering to be absolutely amazing.

Hey thanks!

Cody Beavers how it workout

More than likely the torque converter hub seal on the transmission pump is leaking fluid, and if it's been driven too far with that fluid leak until it stopped moving forward, you might end up with burned up clutch packs, piston seals and bands. Make sure there are dowel pins present on the engine before re-installing transmission. check the torque converter pilot hub and make sure it's not scored up.

Hey thanks for the tips Anonymous. I’m just learning but I will check those components.Taking my time cause I’m a virgin. Really wanna get to know the 4r70w Love my Ford’s

Yeah, I only critically mention to make sure that the engine to transmission dowel guide pins are present, because they help center and align the tranny correctly. The bell housing bolts aren’t designed to hold any torsion or twisting of the engine and tranny. Without those dowel pins, it will twist and misalign the torque converter, crack the pump and eventually cause a fluid leak and possibly crack the flexplate. I’ve seen other shops replace engines and forget to transfer the dowel pins over if not already installed on new or used engines. I know, I was a virgin when I rebuilt a used transmission for my 2002 Crown Victoria when the direct clutch friction welded and burned up

I think you nailed it Anonymous. Front seal was almost falling out. Car was a $500 mechanic special. No codes to check. Battery frozen solid. All I heard was no forward gears but reverse works. No hard part damage but forward clutch discs and steels fried. Stalled out till tomorrow cause I got ramy and and cut the piston seal on the forward clutch

Hey thanks, you just made my day. Now, my opinion on why Crown VIc 4r70W lasts longer than in a Van is quite simple. Commercial vans are carrying a lot more weight than its lighter smaller cousin, the Crown Vic. The planets in the later units just cannot stand the torque capacity and rarely last more than 100,000 miles in a commercial van. The more weight the owner lugs around, the shorter the life span. Therefore, I have seen the same unit in passenger cars last 300,000 miles plus without a problem.

Hey thanks. A little secret, I'm actually a criminal defense attorney and building transmissions got me through law school. I still enjoy it and miss it sometimes.

Mine just lost 3 and 4. That's why I'm here. I don't like the sounds of your comment. Lol. It shifts into the gears and I can feel that, but they are just a nuetral

you have to be careful when interchanging the planet set. It gets complicated because of the amount of variations Ford made. You even have to be careful changing planets between different 4R70Ws too. The 4R70W has three different planet sets depending on application and year. The changes were so slight and very hard to see. If you keep the 4R70W complete planet as a set, then you just need to look at whether the application requires the front speed sensor. The easy answer is not to do it at all but I have got creative over the years with very little problems. And you can never use an AOD planet in a AODE. These are completely different because of the gear ratio and speed sensor pick-up and ration errors. Basically do not do it.

first, yes you can mix synthetic and non-synthetic fluid without causing any problems in an AODE, which is the name of your transmission. If fact, that happens all the time when the fluid is changed. One can only remove 5 - 6 quarts of fluid at any given time and the unit holds about 12-13 quarts. Transmission fluid like Dexron is merely hydrolic fluid with red dye and additives. The red dye is only used for identification purposes only. The additives are friction modifiers to prevent harsh shifting. Next, a 23 year old AODE with almost 100K miles would need to be removed and rebuilt. Most likely the hard 1-2 shift is the result of a worn out intermediate clutch pack. Clutches are like you brakes in that they have a limited life and are designed to eventually wear out. Once the material has been removed, the only way to fix is is to replace those clutches. My guess, your grand marquis will soon slip into second as it wears out a bit more. Don't waste your money on any magic potion because it doesn't exist, unfortunately. Good luck and I wish I had better news.

The forward drum is cracked

Haha, it's ok. Sometimes it's best left to the professionals. However, I'm sure you'll be fine if you did it yourself. At first, it takes patience, a lot of research, and some tools. I did these videos to help the do it yourselfers. So, good luck if you try, and if you have any questions, just ask.

@@2kwik4u2c thank you so much for your videos. I was thinking, the shop I send my grand marquis 97 to get the transmission serviced at 98k miles for the second time told me that at 65k ( 1st service ) they used the mobil 1 atf synthetic to refill and the last one they used dexron III because they didn't had mobil in stock in that moment . They assured me that it will cause no harm and that the mobil atf synthetic could be mixed with it and my transmission won't have issues using dexron III. What do you think boss?. Should I keep putting in my Trans dexron III? OR Mobil atf synthetic? Which is of course a generic lubricant

@@2kwik4u2c im looking at automatic transmission videos to try and see what a transmission drum is this video was pretty educational even if i still have no clue what one is or how you even remember were all that crap goes its nice to know how complicated the whole thing is makes me appreciate mechanics more than i already do

Ya, absolutely works great below.060 direct clutch pack. They make different thickness steels, clutches, and snap-rings for the direct drum. I set them with a small clearance, closer to.030". Sounds like you're fixing the general 4R70-75 boat anchor. I always change ALL the accumulators, all the bushings, and use a transgo shift kit. Also, a new EPC solenoid would be a good investment for your build. Good luck!

hi matt my buddy races crown vics in indiana, his car is a 2004. i have some older cores id like to build him a nice, full manual shift unit. any tips on that would be great. thanks doug

First, I'm laughing a little because the planets are not factory welded. Instead, they got so crunched up you can't get them apart and I've been there plenty of time. I usually use a large hydraulic press and hammer to pull apart. Nevertheless, all the parts are available at any transmission parts supplier. I like Transtar but, I'm not here to give anyone business.

@@2kwik4u2c I have a picture that I can send if you like. They are welded together with a welder.

@@davidfranz5197 The way you're saying that the planetary gear set and direct clutch drum are welded together, that basically means that both hard part assemblies got HOT and welded themselves together. there's a bearing that is not removable inside the planetary gear set and that can get destroyed easily by excessive heat, as well as the no. 7 bearing and bearing support in between the direct clutch return spring and the rear of the gear set. Usually, you end up damaging both of them trying to get them apart and chunks of the bearings can ruin and chip away the gear teeth. I'd hate to say this, but you probably need a direct clutch drum (including piston and return spring) and a planetary gear set! I had the same thing happen to my original 4R70W in my 2002 Crown Victoria at around 143,500 miles.

You are right. After closer inspection and a bit of movement they are indeed NOT welded together. thanks for the heads up. I am the DA!

@@StrangerinaStrangeLand-im4yl To questions boss,; 1.could I use dexron III on my 97 grand marquis and mix it up with mobil atf synthetic which was used in previous trans service? 2.My trans is shifting from 1 and 2 a little bit rough, I have to pull off the pedal of acceleration so it enters 2 gear faster and smooth. If I don't do that it will enter rough what would you think the problem might be? The car has 96 k miles. 2 trans services, 1st was mobil atf synthetic as I said and 2nd dexron III but I am not sure the last one is suitable for this transmission or mixing it with mobil. Thanks for your time.

I still got both of them, but you're right. I can't tell you how many people I worked with that only had one eye left. Safety first, absolutely.

Absolutely!

You are going to have to be more descriptive. I didn't quiet understand whether the trans was recently built or it was never touched? You said trans rebuilt but last sentence says the fluid was never changed? However, if it was never built, it sounds like the forward frictions have worn out. And if it was recently built, the forward drum cracks at the snap ring out of nowhere. It never cracks all the way around most of the time so what happens is a massive delay in drive. Either case, sounds like you need to pull it apart and there is no magic potion that can cure it. good luck.

Doesn't sound like trans problem. Probably your catalytic converter.

@@2kwik4u2c no cats, straight pipes, code p1718 ford

@@GiotheGhreat that's a very unusual code. I would have to see the vehicle to diagnose it. But it could be connector. I've seen plenty of times the pins break off from the transmission side into the harness. If there's water, there will be corrosion, and you could look inside harness with a mirror. If so, it's very easy fix and inexpensive.

No disrespect intended, pointing out a perspective 👍

Actually on the 4r70w the foward drive drum is on the bottom.

I hope I'm answering your question, you may want to rephrase it to make it a little clearer. But both input and output shafts should spin freely (when shifter is not in park position) otherwise you have big problems.

@@2kwik4u2c yea I kinda jacked that question all up! But I pulled the trans and the input and output shafts do not turn at all while in neutral 1st 2nd!

@@2kwik4u2c thank you

First check the fluid. It's not surprising at all for there to be no codes. However, you might still have codes depending on how you are scanning it. In 2002, transmission codes were not part of the Global OBD II system and thus, will not get transmission codes if merely scanning with a global scanner. I always use vehicle specific software when scanning for transmission codes, as opposed to engine codes. Now a days you will find more trans codes in the OBD system, as required. Nonetheless, I would first start by checking the fluid. This symptom would be apparent during a typical low fluid condition. If it is low, fix the leak, fill the trans back up, and drive away. However, you may not have a typical problem. If fluid is full (check while running in park) then check the condition of the fluid. If it looks and smells burnt then you will need to remove and rebuild the unit. Lastly, you can drop the pan to get a better idea of what is going on, but unfortunately there is no magic potion that will fix an internal problem (despite some far fetched allegations). If the fluid is full, there isn't much you can do other than pull it out. However, I did run into a very unique problem with this unit one time in a 2002 van. I don't believe this problem will ever get duplicated but the solenoid wires at the bulk head connector had a bad connection, which gave this symptom on take off intermittently. It never threw a code and it only happened about once a week. This would be a long shot though but it is always a good idea to check your connections before condemning the unit. Good luck.

This is happening to me now. To catch first gear the engine needs to turn 1500 rpm. It slams on the first shift from startup, but when it shifts into overdrive the tramsmission catches no gears, with overdrive turned off it holds onto third. I will use my 2005 expedition with overdrive off until I get it looked at Monday.

Sorry for the late reply but it sounds like a broken forward drum. They crack at the snap ring.

@@2kwik4u2c had it rebuilt. It was just worn. The band was chewed up and the foward drum was catching on the drum. The snap rings were fine. The case was worn at the output, so they replaced that it sounds better now then when i bought it used 130000 miles. Now it has 177777

I got a 05 expedition doing this very same thing

@@overtaxed79 seems low mileage for those transmissions to have that type of failures. Did the previous owner never changed the fluid in the trans or he hauled a lot? I don't understand why would that happen at those miles

i would need to hear more information in order to give you a more specific answer. Needless to say, the transmission needs to come out to get overhauled. The sun gear along with the rest of a complete planet set up is generally the cause of failure on these units for this year and up. One bit of advice I will give is to make sure if the sun gear is being replaced that you use a new Ford sun gear. There is a Taiwan manufacturer of Ford hard parts but stay clear away from that brand by all means. For whatever reason, they have yet to perfect the sun gear on these units despite much success on other parts like the direct drum. If you get the inferior brand sun gear, your F150 will leave the shop and most likely be on the road for a few months. But it won't last much longer and the damage when they blow is significant. Usually will wipe everything out. So you have been warned. Lastly, when changing the sun gear, Ford has 3 separate designs that will not interchange and must all match. The differences are slight and almost impossible to tell if you don't know. If you have any questions on identifying what you have, just let me know and I will be glad to go over the differences.

Matthew Mathews Man I waiting to do this but am having second thoughts on my 2 wheel drive 4r70w. Changing it from 4by4 would 2 wheel drive be easier? Lol

Putting it back together looks impossible

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ab2UibeEqLOUgIk.html here is a link of putting it back together. It is fairly easy, especially if you are mechanically inclined. The most critical aspect is making sure you have the proper parts. Ford, along with everyone else, has made so many design changes throughout the years. So you need to be very careful when replacing things. Don't be afraid to ask questions, do some research, and you should be fine.

Todd Wallen seen one do that the moon gear was twisted off on the back of the clutch pack

Your check balls are worn.

Check here on KZfaq for makuloco ford tech and the valve video on transmission you have problem

Hey, you're correct that I used to live in NY, and that I don't rebuild much anymore. I'm actually an attorney and I rebuilt transmissions when I was in school. I did it for extra money back in the day. Also, I moved down south about two years ago, so I lost most of my old connections and wouldn't feel comfortable recommending any place.

Good luck with your Grand Marquis

@@2kwik4u2c I still appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment

Man I am gonna do this .

@@mnmlivelove25 good luck 🍀

yes, with modifications. Obviously the 4*4 output shaft and extension housing is too short for a drive shaft. If the two units are the same year then you would have to remove the output on the 2 wheel drive and install in the 4*4. This requires disassembling each unit to get to the output shaft. Therefore, I would recommend to freshen up the unit since you will have it apart anyway. Rebuild kits and clutch packs are fairly inexpensive and well worth the money. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask. I also have a video on how to build these transmissions here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ab2UibeEqLOUgIk.html

4R75 is going to be the best out of those two. Has the heaviest duty parts, and is the last iteration of the AODE type 4 speed trannys from Ford

Most likely, the pump bushing is worn out. When the bushing is worn out, the seal can walk. I wouldn't do all that work without changing the pump bushing. And I always use locktight on those front seals. Those front seals commonly walk out and the locktight is reassurance that it's not going anywhere.

@@2kwik4u2c Thanks! I think that is exactly what happened. I replaced the front seal (loctite), bushing, O-ring, and gasket. Thanks for your excellent video that gave me the courage to open up a transmission for the first time.

@@TheLaubachs what fluid do you use in the transmission of the mustang? The mercon v? Or dexron III? Or.. The mobil 1 atf full synthetic? Which one you think is better for this transmissions

John Paul Beckwith do you have 4th gear or is that missing too?

well im not sure. i have no way of getting to 4th that i know of because i cannot get to 3rd its just revs out in nuetral. it will max the rpms in that (nuetral but suppose to be in 3rd state) cause i did hope if i just pin the throttle when i hit that nuetral out of 2nd that it would just jump to 4th when the RPMs got high enough but it did not.

John Paul Beckwith well, from the sound of it you need trans rebuilt. I know that's probably not the answer you were hoping but it's the reality of problem. There is no magic potion or juice that can cure this, only to take it apart and fix what's wrong. which is most likely the direct drum.

ok well we take hits on the chin and keep on pushin man. i really do appreciate your time tho.

Great question. Sounds like the computer sensed an internal problem when the gauge started to fluctuate. Regardless of which guage you are talking about whether it be temp sensor or tachometer, the computer either sensed a slip or that it in fact overheated. These sensors are rarely the problem but rather something inside the unit that is causing it. Especially for the fact it was recently opened up and attempted to repair. Hopefully, you have some sort of warranty and you can bring it back there. Parts on these units have always been expensive and someone attempting to undercut the competition to merely get a job generally loses in the end because they cut corners and fail to replace essential parts. Three main areas of concern: 1) the valves in the pump wear out often, 2) the solenoids in the VB go bad, and 3) the planets blow up. Lastly, you always want to make sure you have a well built TC in the unit after a build. Cheaping out on a TC will make the unit overheat. Lastly, the computer will put the unit in high line pressure until it senses the problem is fixed, which will cause the "blow". Good luck.

hank you so much for your prompt response. Have a great day

I have issue with the person who fixed the transmission. I will need to buy the valve body with the solenoids. Do you know where I can buy this part new at a good price?

Juan Lopez 1400 with a shift kit Fresno CA

robert subero the 720 and 722 are speed sensor codes and 731 and 733 are gear ratio codes, meaning you have an internal problem and your speed sensors are fine. The computer gets tricked into thinking the speed sensors are not working when it has no input. But because of the gear ratio codes you definitely have no input because hard parts are not spinning. Unfortunately, this unit will have to come apart.

I would use solvents in my parts washer, but if diesel is your only option please let me know how it works.

@@2kwik4u2c okay I’ll let you know

@@Chrisbuildsstuff247 i think regular gasoline might be even better. as it easily cleans that oil sludge and drys out fast. . juts dont put it on new rubber seals or friction plates. same with diesel ))) . i flashed a tranny with diesel once, and friction plates turned to dust the very next day. ))

I responded earlier but for some reason it did not go through and it did not save what I wrote. So I will try to summarize what I wrote in a nut shell. First, I am sorry to hear that they are making you pay for a VB after you already paid for a complete overhaul when a VB is part of that overhaul. Next, I hope for your sake that they properly diagnosed this as a VB problem because it could be a number of things like a bad pump or bad torque converter. Although this thread is not about business practices, shops like that give mechanics a very bad name. Needless to say, I used to buy these VBs from the dealer at first, which is very expensive. Once more of these units came into production I was able to buy them used and then buy the individual solenoids separately. Like you said earlier, the VB is merely just a bunch of solenoids, and not a typical valve body. In fact calling it a valve body just does not seem right because of the lack of valves. What I would do is to figure out which solenoid was the problem and bu y just the ones I needed. Then I would rebuild the VB with the 1 or 2 or maybe 3 solenoids I decided were bad. If this is the route you will take or if you purchase a used VB take caution to replace all the little rubber cup plugs, which most people overlook and the actual cause of a lat of failures. Also change the gaskets but I hope that goes without saying. These rubber plugs though rip and cause the internal leaks reducing the pressure, in some cases drastically. I am not here to promote one business over another but I have had a lot of good experiences with a local trans supplier named VTP in Brooklyn. I know they ship nationally and you can talk to John Crook. He is actually located in Florida but the business is here in New York. Good luck, and remember about those rubber plugs!

Thank you so much for your response. I will definetely take your recommendations..

Make sure you keep us posted on what happens. Good luck with everything.

Get a banner kit, filter, transgo shift kit, and overdrive band.

Shannon Stockwell u

Matthew D'Amato should I hear the mechanical diode when I turn in one direction and it locked in the other direction once the forward drum and shaft are installed in the case