To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab

After many years of enjoying Mr. Carlson's videos, I think I've realized what I enjoy the most, it's his genuine reactions. Moments like, "well there's a bunch more screws to remove..." give me a chuckle because I can totally relate, as I'm sure many others do too. Thanks for all your hard work, keeping the dream alive!

For me, having another person's identification/name/callsign/lab name engraved into an old piece of equipment isn't a downside. It's the same reason I don't like removing vintage asset tags off of surplus equipment. It's part of the history of the equipment, and IMO it gives it a little "personality". Some of this stuff has been used for pretty important work at some pretty special places long ago.

I've tried isopropyl alcohol to remove labels, but what i find works best is standard WD40, just get it started under an edge and work it inwards, might be something to try on the old dial ;)

The reason people had an identifier engraved on electronics and other valuables was simply that the police departments went door to door and offered to do so in an attempt to discourage break-in theft and also that recovered stolen goods would be easily identifiable. I'd say the practice was around the late 70s and early 80s. In Quebec, I think it was called "Operation Volcan" if memory serves me well. Students were hired to go door to door and engrave objects.

Mr C.👍👍 Great start to the hands on restoration of this receiver, when you said "improve" I knew some design changes were coming. This will be an awesome and welcome series of videos to enjoy, thanks for your expertise, knowledge and logical explanations as the series moves forward. See ya soon.

Good video! Audio level drops from 12:26 to about 14:00

It should be remembered that the BC-348 was intended for use in unheated unpressurized bombers such as the B-17 and B-24. At altitude the operator was usually wearing heavy gloves due to the cold (30 below zero F and lower). That's why the controls and the construction are the way they are.

My dad, God rest his soul, would find this very interesting. He was U.S. Army Signal Corps-Radio Intelligence during WW2 and he was also a lifetime ham radio operator. I'm sure he would be very familiar with the insides of this receiver.

I have an "O" model and it's chock full of oil-filled can capacitors. LOTS of them. It's working pretty well but the CW oscillator coil is open, so no BFO. I'll look with interest when you get back into the Great Receiver series. You're a natural born teacher, Mr. C.

Yeah, I loved the carping about the paper labels stuck on that beautiful etched and painted dial wheel. Back in the 60's and 70's these radios could be purchased from surplus electronics stores for not much money. I don't think many ever considered that people may value and collect this "junk" gear sometime in the future. I'm looking forward to the next video!

Switching is positive so the ops could have tactile feeling cuz they were wearing thick gloves for the cold at high altitudes. So well made.

Great start....looking forward to lots of videos on this receiver, Paul.

These military receivers are marvels of mechanical engineering. Great restorations, a joy to follow!

Goo gone is a little bit less harsh than goof off. It usually won't remove paint and doesn't evaporate as quickly so can be better for removing stubborn gunk.

If you don't have one of these receivers, and can't tell from the video, these things are beasts. Cast aluminum chassis and every part is very stout and built to last. They weigh a ton. Looking forward to the next video.

Ran one of these for CW abt 25 yrs. It was modded with a filter, notch, & more. Stunning performance on AM & CW. Serious CW heads were awed by the sweet tone. Like having background music playing ! Sadly nothing like it built anymore.... LFOD !

Gone are the days that QST magazine would feature the mods for ham use...I sat and watched my father W3QIZ work on many rigs in the day...its how I got my start...hmm...I think I still have a cashe of Command sets around...real radios glow in the dark and have a warm inviting smell that is good for the soul....thank you ! .

I really enjoy the videos where you work on vacuum tube equipment. And, in this case, it's a military piece. I served in the U.S. Navy for 22 years. Most of the equipment I worked on was vacuum tube stuff. I replaced very few tubes. They were just very reliable. The Navy wouldn't switch to a new system unless it was thoroughly tested. We did have Field Changes. These were upgrades that were installed in existing systems over the years. Reliability wasn't as good for traveling wave tubes. I replaced quite a few of those. They were good for a limited number of hours.

Fantastic as always. I use CRC fast dry degreaser to remove stickers, works pretty well (not suitable for all surfaces).

Thank you, a good and clear intro into the process. Looking forward to the next in the series.

Lately been reading WWII spy novels. Radios always play a key role in these sagas. So cool!!!!

Hey there Paul , I just wanted to say THANK YOU so very much ! It is so nice to see you in the lab , working on this series again ! You do such an amazing job and I learn so much from you . I find your shows so entertaining and interesting to see , THANK YOU again !

I love these videos! I love this style of receiver, not a regular radio but whatever this kind is.. Anyway, thanks for the video!

Paul used go jo waterless hand soap the original with out grit in it you just put it on and let it set for a few and it is save for painted surfaces. Enjoy your videos thank you

Another great video. Even though I can't imagine my restoring a BC-348 (kind of a boat anchor), the whole process is ... what can I say ... relaxing and a lot of fun. There's an element of mystery as you are retrofitting the units. You do not suffer fools gladly, and I have at least half a dozen chuckles in the course of each video with your running commentary. Another element to this is the fact they were used in B-17s, B-24s, etc. and in one's mind eye you can imagine the circumstances in which they were used - the operators were often in harm's way. Looking forward to the next - 73.

Great video Paul...Please keep this series going!

Bravo! I’ll be anxiously waiting for next installment!

I personally like when I find stickers and carvings from original owners. Tells you it lived. Those stickers looked pretty good but a teeny tiny bit of moisture will see that destroyed. You don’t even wanna be cleaning those dials. You could certainly ruin the whatever finish is on it too. Try an inconspicuous spot first. Like VR dials have a coating on the paper graticule allot of times to make it look matte

This is going to be a good one Mr Carlson lots of stuff to learn Thank you.

Thank you for an awesome video. I am exited to learn how you clean up this radio and of course, The electrical restoration. As with the previous receiver, I will be watching and taking lots of notes. Also looking forward to building the through hole super probe to help find problemed parts. Can't wait for the next video on this one.

Ancient sticky tape can be removed with petroleum ether, or - for stronger effect - cosmetic-grade kerosene first, then petroleum ether. It rarely harms the paint work and is good to remove old disintegrating rubber as well.

Excellent work 👌

Nice video Mr Carlson sir your teaching is also Great nicely and clear understand I like it your videos sir. thank you so much for the video 😊😊

Another home run! I'm definitely a fan of the 'condensed format' - "...everyting I always wanted, and less!"

I like LPS silicone lubricant for those sticky labels. It's water based & safe for paint & plastics. Spray or dab it on, wait a day & they usually come off with little effort. Sometimes they even fall off.

Excellent as always, Mr. Carlson. Hope the kids are paying attention, 👀👽

I curse the "Surplus Conversion Manual" every time I see a hacked up WWII military radio. ARC-5/SCR-274 sets seem to get butchered the absolute worst. Looking forward to how you tackle the 348. I have 2 of them, a Q and an R in my queue for restoration. I'll no doubt be copying whatever you wind up doing!

Like always Mr. Carlson’s Lab ! ... Allow me to share an experience .I use a technique for removing adhesive residues with hot air low temperature first and WD40 after the adhesive softened on metal surfaces only. The results are very good; I always look for an inconspicuous area to test and check the results and possible reactions. Nice video congrats and Best regards 73 PY2NDB.

for removing stickers, label, glue remains and stuff like that i often use WD40. it needs a little time to dissolve the stuff but i never had a case where the paint was destroyed.

I have found the naphtha (lighter fluid) is very good at removing old Adhesive.

My Recommendation for removing the tape goo on the dial would be Goo-Gone. It is citrus based and less aggressive. I am looking forward for your progress on this project. That BC-348 has been the model of radio have been looking for. Can't wait for more to come. Greg

I have the same model radio receiver i use it to listen to the local airport here in Orlando, FL. What i did to prevent paint chipping is I sprayed the front faceplate with clear coat.

Great video!

My dad was a radio man in WWII on a B-26 bomber in Europe. He probably actually used one of these on his missions.

goof off is xylene, a paint remover. Not saying the damage wasn't already permanent from the stickers but that seems pretty aggressive to start off with.

That's actually awesome and very interesting that those two are that close one what's inside of them to. My grandpa that's no longer alive now. Taught me a lot about that type of stuff., and even told me a lot about that type of stuff to growing up when I was A little boy 31 years ago now. Man how time surely fly's bye with absolutely no doubt about it in life either.

I found to easily remove the adhesive from those type of stickers is to put a little vegetable oil on a soft cloth. It should desolve it with a little bit of rubbing.

Nice video as usual 🙂. When I have to remove duct tape residue I never use chemicals. I use a piece of another duct tape, press the sticky side on the residue and rip it off. This is not as easy as it sounds, you have to get the right feel to it and do the rip not too quickly or too slowly... Although my wife hates to see me doing it, the results have been satisfactory so far.

Outstanding, come on part three.

My dad saved one of these from the scrap heap 50+ years ago but a German version I think. It's very similar. It's on the restore list one of these days

I am looking forward to the next video. Thanks Paul!!

Dad got these all the time, we stripped the paint off, polished stuff and clear Lacquered, we sold them with power supplies and speakers. We sold it for a profit every time.

Mineral spirits is my goto for removing label adhesive. It rarely damages paint.

The bc348 was a rock solid receiver for me as a novice ham. WD 40 would be easier on the paint and remove the residue. My guess those caps are close to being turned into resistors.

Thanks Paul for starting this exciting video really going to be a great video to watch and follow. You're the Best. Glad I joined Patreon. Keep it up

Mr. C., Another trick you could use is a little bit of wd-40. It will break down the adhesive residue, and shouldn't harm the paint. I used to work in retail many years ago, and we would use it on the metal store fixtures from price tag bin labels. Hopes this helps, sir.

Thanks. Had 2. Of those.

Like the ART13 particularly as well as the BC348. Very much into boatanchor ham radios FTDX401 KWM2a SB100 TR4 and trouble shooting sudden loss of tx output, Oscillator failure and Amplifiers for RF. A lot of Amateurs watch your channel. Cheers from OZ VK5LB

You are never to old to learn.😀

Great start, really looking forward to the next one as you get further into it. Would like to know more about the process around how these receivers are going to be compared, eg are you going to sweep the frequency range at lower and lower amplitude to see to see how each receiver responds?

WD40 works excellent to remove sticker adhesive. Slow but will not harm the paint. Also excellent to remove permanent marker.

It's only 22 minutes, I didn't have time to fall asleep. I'm disappointed Mr. Carlson.

I think I made the mistake of thinking the other receiver was "better" because it seemed to have more IF stages. Turns out the mixer and oscillator are separate in the H series and the more modern valves were doing more in the latter stages in the Q series. So I suppose the set with the fewer valves was cheaper to produce and would be more efficient but maybe the overall performance would be about the same. Can't wait for the next episode to see where all this goes.

My father Jerold Carlson repaired these radios during WW2 while stationed in the pacific 5th army airforce 1089 signal company.

Toy collectors often use WD-40 to remove stickers. It is less aggressive than most other products. You might try it on another portion of the damaged dial. (Looks like others beat me to it!)

Mr. Carlson. Try an orange oil based solvent. Pure orange oil is the the best. It will cause the sticky goo to swell up into a gel and loose it's ability to stick. It can then be gently scraped or wiped off. The orange oil will not damage or take the paint off like a petroleum based product.

Along with WD-40 or your favorite petroleum solvent, one of those little electric heat guns does a great job at softening labels and maybe no solvent is needed. Although, heat can cause it's own problems. The heat gun I have has about a 3/4 inch nozzle and is 360 watts. I'm not talking about the giant 1500 watt one Harbor Freight sells that is the size of a hair dryer. Mine's a Milwaukee model 1400. My ex bought it (with my money) from a craft store. It's one of the few things she didn't take when she left! Works great with heat shrink tubing too with no flames involved. Also even water can be a bad solvent. I nicely permanently removed the word "Admiral" and the tube number from a tube in my RCA A78 while restoring it. It came off with very gentle pressure! Looks like a very nice condition BC 348! I can't wait for the rest of this restoration. Your video is a nice distraction from all the news in Maine right now. Thanks for sharing and take care!

I have found Clorox wipes handy to remove stuff like stickers and cigarette tar off equipment. It doesn't take the paint off or silk screen off.

I'd recommend to try Mineral Turpentine to remove any sticker leftovers first. It works well on home appliances stickers and car badges removal. Its strong to dissolve the glue and almost never damages the paint. I never ever bought any dedicated product for this purpose.

Rubbing alcohol works just as well, and typically you don't have to worry about taking the paint off too. Might do a test on the lettering just in case, because of the type of paint used in some instances

Interested in this series as I have a BC-348Q manufactured by Wells Gardner that has stopped working and I will need to dig into soon

interesting to see how it has held up after all this time and what has been added to it

Ohhhh My Goodness....😮😮😮Look at that BEAST...!!! (Boat Anchor) lol 😜😜😜Love it Mr Carlson.... :-)

I've removed labels for many, many decades and I usually treat the whole label first, let it sit a little while to soften the glue and then it's easier to remove. I almost always also heat treat the label with a hot air gun, sometimes (quite often) that makes both glue and label to remove in one piece, just minute pieces of glue left. For that type of sticky label as in this video I most often try with standard petroleum based degreaser, and as I said, pre-treat the label and wait a little while. If that isn't compatible with the glue, I use isopropyl alcohol. Very, very rare that either of those damage the surface if isn't cardboard backing, but I've managed most of them too with heat and Iso (doing a lot when selling old games with personal stickers). I actually never used any special label removers, there has been no need.

The D-104, (better known as the lolly-pop Mic.) is one of the best! It's maddening that someone would do that to the chrome! errr

Good old vacuum tubes and resistors...u could probably pack ten of those units into a modern day iPhone

Wonderful video. I see you used Goof Off and I have used it in the past but it is pretty caustic and unkind to painted surfaces. I now try Goo Gone first. Good Gone is citric based and won’t damage paint. And it smells much nicer. You may want to give it a try.

BTW use the old dial as a guinea pig. Make a short vid trying different cleaners. I would be a BIG help to restorers. LFOD !

A trick my mum taught me was to use paraffin lamp oil on the sticker residue. Let it soak for a bit and the residue will wipe right off without damaging underlying surface.

Sticker glue: place the surface horizontal. Cover the glue/sticker with a small piece of cloth. Drop a few drops of white spirit (turpentine) on it and soak for an hour or two.

wow , I would have left the stickers on

Although I only used them on plastic laser printer cases, my go-to cleaners are WD 40, Isopropyl, kitchen surface cleaner, and VIM, or ceramic cook top cleaner (same difference). On stubborn stuff, delicate use of a ballpoint ink rubber eraser. For really intractable marks, I have this thing that I don't know what it is or where I got it. It's like a mechanical pencil, but the lead is a hard, white, fibrous material.

Thanks for the video. Iwould have removed the jack sockets from the front and saved de-soldering... I have never taken the front of any of my BC348s so interested to see how the dial replacement goes? All those .01uf caps look like ceramic but they are paper and will be leaky 😂

I personally wouldn’t have removed those labels because they show part of its past history. But it is your radio😊

well Iam 4hrs late but vary interested as always.

Awesome as Always Cant wait for what's next i can recommend wd40 for sticker removal and Believe it or not ... Mayonnaise !

FYI, you can score around the outside edges of the screws to prevent it them from chipping the front face panel when removing them.

Probably too late to suggest this... but for the stickers on the band dial, I'd try turning the radio face up & making a little puddle of the goo remover & let it sit a while to soften things up. Maybe less rubbing would be needed & less paint damage.

That was my first receiver in ~1975.

Tape and stickers, the enemy of all technicians. What a sad deal because outside of that, the dial was beautiful, (Soft weeping in the background).

From my experience, adhesive residues usually age in this order: New: Dabbing off adhesive residues with scotch tape is usually sufficient. Sticky: Try in this order: Scotch tape, 70% isopropyl alcohol, lighter fluid, then stronger agents. Hard: Like sticky, doesn't always go away completely. Always test before means at inconspicuous place! @Indiskret1 Thanks for the tip with heat gun and your agents. I will test! My most famous goof of a previous owner: During the restoration of a Siemens E311b, the front panel had to be removed for access to the mechanics. This is held in position by two chromed brackets. Four nuts had to be loosened. I was surprised about the extremely high torque required for loosening which I could only apply with an extended open-end wrench. It banged once and the nut was finally solved. Investigation showed, that a predecessor in the absence of a wrench had secured all four nuts with adhesive against loosening. So it was enough to tighten them by hand. It then banged three more times in the chassis, and the front panel was finally loosened.

I use lighter fluid, and it does not hurt the paint. The glue comes off very well.

Thats one old buzzard receiver! Itll be great to see the process.

Vintage adhesive tape labels! Must be 60 years old.

Naphtha. Doesn't touch the paint at all, and not very stinky on the overall stinky-scale of solvents.

WD40 is great for removing glue residue. I have used it to remove tack from glass after removing old sticky fly traps or car stickers. Dab on, wait, then use a cloth slowly. G4BTI.

I use a method you might want to consider which usually works even for long dried sticky glue and it's the wet patch stuff. I wet a little patch of rag or towel and place it over the residue area, let it soak and soften up for several minutes after which the q-tip technique usually works much better, with far less effort and lesser chance of paint damage. I just forgot sometimes I use a plastic scraper instead of the q-tip, providing the surrounding area is flat and smooth. It helps a lot, and I finish the job with the q-tip.

Naphtha (Lighter Fluid, white gas) is pretty good at removing decals. Of course: test in a inconspicuous place.

Try some oil or WD-40 on the glue. In general, it removes gum without interfering with the paint.