So I have had that same idea rattling around in my head for a while and here is my thought. Two layers of overlapping 1" hex porcelain tiles as a face, multiple layers of epoxy bonded fiberglass in the middle, and a thin layer of sheet steel at the back, with the whole thing covered in rhino-lining bed liner to make it a nice slick package that could easily be inserted into a plate carrier while more importantly bonding the porous porcelain tiles together and to the top outermost layer of fiberglass. Alternatively the tiles could be baked into HDPE so it rather than rhino lining bonds them together then placed on the fiberglass with steel backing and then that whole package is dipped in rhino lining. The thin sheet steel can be formed in a simple or complex curvature pretty easily and then used as a form for the fiberglass, over top of that drape the 2 layers of already rhino lining dipped tiles (or melty bendy HDPE baked tiles), let it dry and then coat the whole assembly in rhino lining to seal it all and further bond the tiles (in the case of the rhino lining dipped ones). This in theory should allow for the tiles to still shatter on impact of the round breaking it up making it easier for the fibreglass to catch, but keep most of the porcelain shards where they are so they can reduce damage from further shots before that one inch section is spent. The rounds are then caught by the layers of fiberglass and resin, and the metal backing helps to solidify everything and minimize deformation into the wearer, from heavy rifle rounds. The thickness of the steel used and the number of (as well as type of) fiberglass layers used would be variable and the increased as needed for the desired caliber resistance. Moderately heavy but robust. As a total wackjob idea do hex tiles over a bunch of fiberglass soaked in a shear thickening fluid STF (high viscosity silicone oil with nano particle sized silica, metal oxides, or non oxide substances of various kinds that are nonreactive to the silicone oil medium they will be suspended in). You would need to find a way to keep the STF from sinking to the bottom so would need an envelope that could bend and flex with the wearer but NOT stretch as to not allow the bottom to balloon out. and that could also self heal to some extent so the STF does not leak out after one shot. It would be a flexible "plate" armor. that would go over soft body armor providing a layer of added protection able to (combined with the soft armor below) stop high caliber rifle rounds.

Yeah, I kinda have to try atlest one, even if the main plan wasn't to have any retractable. Just to see if I can

@@Techthisoutmeow The diver's window is probably the most useful, but you would have to make it wider to stop anything more than a bb.

Definitively the driver window! Armored vehicles also need to use a drive-through :)

​@@Paranorb he wants a bug out jeep not a fancy one

​@@Techthisoutmeowwould definitely be cool to see.

For sure! I just didn't have any off hand for the basic round of testing, I was already planning for the doors to be some form of composite hybrid, either with steel or ceramic. When it comes to the grill and around the engine we'll be diving more into other steels and metals.

@@Techthisoutmeow Low carbon steel is weaker and softer than the 7075 aluminum you tested a while back, while being almost 3x the weight. Good cast iron would probably be better than it. I don't have a grade in mind, but milspec armor is about 1% Chromium, Manganese, and Nickel with about .6% silicon and .3% carbon, so any steel similar to that should be much better than what you have.

@@highmolecularweightRDX scavenging steel off construction equipment and dump trucks is likely to score you some ar400 or similar. Best stuff to stop kinetic rounds would be a hardfaced dozer blade from a quarry

Remember that ar 500 stands for “abrasion resistant” There’s a form of abrasion and galling from bullets that’s pretty unique. A cheap option I can think of would be d2 or a2, but even high carbon steels like 15n20 (2% nickel, actually increases impact toughness appreciably) or even 8670 (the toughest steel available basically, also contains nickel) I don’t think steel is the answer unless it can be thin and have little spalling

An vehicle armorer I spoke to told me they use "Liquid Nails," but they use Spectrashield (by 3M) impregnated with an epoxy resin. They then cut out the single sheet to fit the shape of the area of the vehicle they are attaching it to.

I imagine custom staggered plates behind the seams? That’s what I’d do if I couldn’t do a monolithic plate

Cant wait for it to be finished!

Thanks brother, more coming soon! Working on the glass now, let's hope it works as intended

Anytime I’ve welded AR500, it makes the steel much softer where the heat was highest. Ultimately I was able to shoot thru the plates about 1” from either side of the welds.

thanks brother, they turned out good.

Also what are the weights of the two plates you'll be using?

@@swegmastur614 those ended up being around 12 lbs per square foot. I'll check my notes and give you the exact number soon, it was on the lighter end of 12 I believe for the 30 layer one, might scale up light too. Now the main reason I can't use ar500 is cost. I considered it though, if I can find a close by distributor for it. Shipping for heavy steel is insane lol. I also hear its a pain to cut and weld.

But there might be some of it used around the engine block, and the grill

@@Techthisoutmeow sporting good stores have target steel but only in small panels

It should be totally fine to melt and reform

It would be hard to separate the non hdpe

luckily you got it, plenty of my subscribers don't lol

He already mentioned in the first video he was going to outfit is to its max load.

My discord got taken down brother, for violation of the TOS. Don't know what the conversation was about. So yeah, we lost everything that we had recorded on there, and I'm not sure if I'm going to make another one. Losing everything without warning like that is upsetting to say the least.

Nooo, I knew something wasn't right. Have you by any chance made a server template before it happened? The messages and members would be lost but we would at least have the ranks and all the channels, but just empty. If not I would still be glad if you made a new server, nothing fancy, five channels is enough.

I'm now the proud owner of three 8x5ft level 7 armorcore bullet proof sheets. I also recently picked up two 44inx44in bullet proof sheets of glass. Now it's time to armor my truck. Making my dream ride. Sweet.

What grade did you get? What’s the price per square foot?

For sure, there was two close steel hdpe combo's that was close. With one just being lead spray. I'll show you on discord

I would of liked if he instead tested with lead rounds as lead is denser than steel. This of course will add to the kinetic hit on impact.

@@knerduno5942 lead penetrate far less than steel, as it is infinitely softer. (wich mean projectile flatten out almost instantly compared to steel, wich mean it get stopped far sooner in the plate, wich mean far more remaining material in the plate to stop the lead and reduce the BFD) one of the only exeptions to that rule are the case with two-parts core like 5.56 M855 but aside from that kind of odd situation, even a mild steel core will always be harder to stop than FMJ

@@gamecubekingdevon3 I would disagree. kinetic energy calculations show lead is going hit harder than steel will, considering the same size of the bullet. Since steel is less dense, thus less weight. That means the round is going lose momentum much faster than lead. I also understand since lead is denser, it will deliver its impact in a smaller surface area, which is better to penetrate a material. Better if he still did the test with both types of rounds.

@@knerduno5942 there is a reason why most armies use steel core ammo. Same for tanks, you don t see big lead balls being shot, but instead you see thin hardened steel or tungsten alloys arrows being shot. Lead is super soft, even softer than most plastics, it cause it to flatten instantly upon impact, spreading the energy over a large surface. Ther eis à reason why , when doing anti armor you always see cores made of hard materials and not soft ones. On the opposite soft things are good for expansion against soft targets

It sounds good, but ive seen it tested before. It doesn't work because the resin is all that holds it together. The guy even used big chunks of aluminum oxide in resin and it would punch the 3/4in chunks right out

It wasn't just you, the server got burned. I'm seeing what I can do

@@Techthisoutmeow The old one or the new one?

@@-Turtl3_ it's looking like both servers, old and new got the nuke. So did all the mods, you me zach ana gopnik ect. I'll make a post about this even, and plans of moving forward

Do you have another account yet?

@@Techthisoutmeow I sent an inquiry to the discord Support regarding my deactivation but if that doesn't change anything, I might create a second account.

Yep, gone, reduced to atoms. All the mods got yeeted, my account got yeeted. Server sent on a one way trip to Brazil. Soooooooo, don't know what I'm going to do. Luckily I have the contact information of a few people, so I'll see what we can do soon, hang tight. I'll know more this evening.

@@Techthisoutmeow Nooo.... we gotta make a database on a safer server, that doesn't just go puff out of nowhere on us!

Yeah, I think I have too, just to test some things out. I mean, got 4 to do, plus the rear door so. might change a few things up here and there. But I want one to have a retractable window.

Just wait til I finish my cycle kek, lol.