HI Mike, I will do a short video on the operation of the doors and hinges, thanks for spurring me on and all the others who have likes this comment!!!

Hi Kris, we have a video on youtube demonstrating the adjustment, please click here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ndGTqMKjyrvQfIk.html

Hi Bill, I will do a tour at some point!! have a great day and thanks mate lovely comment!!!

Good tip that

Looking to use these for a set of insulated barn doors for a new garage. - would they work for an exterior door without problems or should I look for a stainless model?

I thought u were actually transitioning . . .

Thank you Peter

Hi Russell, we have a video on youtube demonstrating the adjustment, please click here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ndGTqMKjyrvQfIk.html

Hi Danny, I will do that mate and maybe talk about the hinges and locks etc

Thanks for the comment, I always start with the supplied screws!! In the case of these hinges so much of the load is taken through the mortice you form when they are installed, in the frame I used my own longer screws and these where 50mm as opposed to the ones supplied, my plan is that I will monitor the doors and if I see any movement of the hinge then I will replace with some longer ones, I do agree about screw supplied with some ironmongery, sometimes they are just wrong or in the case of ploished chrome the type you get with some handles and hinges they are as soft as butter!! I often use all my own screws in place of supplied!!!

Hi Stephen, already covered!! I have gaskets routed into the door frame and on the centre rebate, great observation mate

Hi Kevin, I didn't even consider using the souber, in the case of smaller Simonswerk hinges then maybe, especially if the fore end is no more than 25mm, the hinges I used are around 36mm wide so that maybe to much for the souber? you have me thinking now!!!!

Your right there, Souber cutters only go up to 32mm, it would only help you cut out the main body of the hinges. Unless you did it with two passes with a smaller cutter with the off centre jig for the plate. Before Dropping the hinge in and tracing the plate and manually routing out the bottom and top radius. Pretty much the same about of effort of what you are doing already . If only those hinges was slightly smaller, I do really like them.

Hi Nick, there is no built in closing/friction device for TECTUS but the hinges can be used with concealed overhead door closers to maintain the 'concealed door' effect

Thicker jamb the better, its more about the screws having enough to bite into, the actual body of the hinge can mortice through the frame if needs be but the screws will need extra solid grounds behind the frame if that was the case, also it would depend on how heavy the doors where etc

@@ukconstruction thank you! I think then I can use longer screws so that they go through the 3/4" jamb, the shims all the way into the trimmer stud. Door weight is probably 80-100 pounds.

I can't recommend any particular brand, I got a cheap set from Amazon that seem fairly good. But they're sometimes referred to as Vix bits, maybe this will give more search results?

I,v used various makes and found the ones from Axminster tools the best. Don’t clog up,there seems to be more clearance in them. That’s what I find anyway.

Hi Sam here is a link amzn.to/3bfESjt

I have a link to Simonswerk in my description if that helps

I have some that I got from LIDL!!!!! they where £8 for a pair, my others are by Wurth

Hi Antony, we have a video on youtube demonstrating the adjustment, please click here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ndGTqMKjyrvQfIk.html

It's a real problem with some screws, I always use a decent pilot to the correct depth and test the fixings on a piece of scrap first, great comment, all the best Robin

Definitely Ferrari 👍

Well I am Nick Ferrari!!