🤣🤣🤣

The median between low and average is another good figure at around 14% degradation / losses.

Isnt it 17.5 psi?

Wow that’s alot of miles for a 2021

This is disastrous. Almost 20% after only 1-2 years. Like a cheap smartphone battery. If the range is like 290 miles on a charge (since you said driven hard), 115k miles are about 400 charging cycles. 82% health left after that, plus it's only 2 years, is really bad. So, Tesla batteries don't seem to last long after all!

@@xxBlackpspxx Did you read his post? He drove 115K miles on it in 1-2 years... thats insanely above average.

@@super_tomtendo yes, it is. But especially due to the low timeframe the battery shouldn't have aged as much. Batteries degrade from 2 things: charging/discharging and solely time by itself. If he drove 115k miles in 6 years it would be even less capacity now.

@@xxBlackpspxx sir, because of his insane usage he was also required to charge it way more than a normal person. The time frame has nothing to do with that but usage does.

Tesla uses 70% capacity as their threshold for battery health. You need

@@keco185 yes but he has 18.8% degradation. So with another 8% hed be almost at 30% degradation. it does not seem to be an exact match however.

Actually if you read up on lithium ion batteries, most manufacturers recommend replacing the pack at 80% health.

@@keco185 by that logic, and if his battery warranty is just about to expire, he should be kicking that battery hard, then taking it to Tesla and asking for a replacement.

yeah agreed. not super helpful. i feel like i wasted my time watching this one lol

I really want to see how is your tesla battery doing with your type of charging style. I am charging my MYP at home, but doing it low 25-35% to 85-90% top charging routine.

@@nurseitkalbaev Likewise. I’d like to see this as well. Will see if I can do a battery health test either have Tesla Tech do this or see if I can plug it in at a level 2. It’ll probably be in January when I don’t have to drive as much for work. I’ll keep the inquiring minds posted. It’s like, I kinda want to know, but then again, I don’t want to know. Lol.

I'd be curious what your battery test shows!

Do the test, pronto.

Still waiting for your test results here))

same

3rd

Lies

How do you do the battery test ? Can you show me please

Maybe the test is having problems because of the valve failure.

@@David_L3 could be. Bad thing about this fault is it doesn't tell you how long it's been going on, so the valve could have failed a long time ago. Don't like the fact this impacts your battery and motor health too regarding thermal management. Pretty major issue to me.

If it is a somewhat frequent malfunction, maybe they should do a recall. Sounds quite important to have that system functional.

@@FlorinArjocu What's worse is that it's not reporting as an error unless you check the diagnostics. You could miss it as a warranty repair.

Has Kyle posted any updates on the valve issue? be interesting to see what Tesla says.

What are your charging habits? To what state of charge do you normally set and how do you typically charge it?

@@mitchbynum if I'm not on a road trip, I'm usually down to about 40% and then just to trickle charge on 110 volt, back up to about 80% and that stays pretty typical

Jealous, my 2018 with under 40K miles only showed about 290 miles of range with a similar attempted recalibration.

The new battery 77 kWh is also misleading because even when it was new you would never get that much out of it, only about 72 kWh when new. So it is about 8-10% degredation.

@@ryen7512 I watched your 70k battery report. Have to like ScanMyTesla. Just nitpicking, but I come up with just two more kWs at 74.3 usabe when new (77.8 minus the 3.5 kWh battery buffer). The first reading I took from ScanMyTesla was around 6,600 miles. It showed a Nominal Full Pack of 77.6 then. I did see one video of a new Model 3 that showed 77.9 when new, but SMT goes with 77.8. In a ScanMyTesla from a few months ago my Nominal Full Pack was showing 72.8 kWhs. SMT showed the "Usable" as 34.7 at 49.9% SOC, making the usable 69.5 kWhs at 100% SOC. Add in the 3.3 kWs of Energy Buffer and that brings it to 72.8, the Nominal Full Pack reading.

@@epcalderhead Thanks for the info. Here is another video I made at 10k miles in 2019 and it compares a few different sources which ranged from 72-74 kWh. Cheers. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iLuSpbGYuMrMhZ8.html

Not every model 3 long range had 77kw battery pack most of them came with 75kw pack until recently they put 77kw and 82kw packs with the enhancement of the battery packs. I think that was in 2020 they changed.

@@acostaae90 All LR Model 3's had 77 kWh packs until they bumped up the range as you mentioned to 82 kWh. I've never seen a 75 kWh LR pack documented. Once you subtract the 3.5 kWh of buffer you are around 75 kWhs of "usable" energy. Perhaps that is the confusion some make? Can provide proof there were 75 kWh packs?

It doesn't automatically void warranties, to a point. The whole car warranty? No. If you put aftermarket suspension on and something suspension related fails, maybe. But if a drivetrain part fails and they blame it on the suspension, they have no case. Been modifying cars for years, and it really comes down to the dealer working on it. My last car was modified significantly and they had no problem with it. Granted I did most of the maintenance and only took it there for major items.

@@JTube571 Thanks, just wasn't sure what voids the warranty on a EV.

NO, he won't do that. Takes too much time and thought.

Is a bug, they fixed it now

@@yazmat96 What???

@@artfeingold3856 there was a bug in the software, where the battery test was saying nosense results (like 8%, 19%, 37% etc.). They fixed now.

@@yazmat96 Thanks

she wanna play :((

They’re called Martian Wheels

Just wasted 23min

Me too! I wish I never watched this damn video

Geo fencing?

@@Maceyee1 you used to only be able to use service mode while physically at a service center - it would only work within a map bubble around the service center locations unless manually trigger with toolbox (mobile techs)

It was always available in Europe. There hasn’t been a geo fence for service mode

@@ExperienceCN there definitely has been a service mode in the US

@@ExperienceCN those are likely not linked. You can have a new battery and still have a cell kill the pack

Once you’re in Service mode there’s the option to exit it

Do you always charge to the same level? And do consistent trips like drive to work, get home, charge back to 80% every day? If your car almost always sits at the same levels of charge (80% and whatever you arrive at work) then the BMS only has a couple data points and can't accurately gauge capacity. If so, try charging to different levels (70, 85, etc) and/or skip a day of charging if you can and see if over a few weeks the range climbs.

@@ekbuz No, I don't charge always to the same level. It looks like that range now is like 285-287 miles stays the same about a year. Generally the battery degradation is fastest in first years and then slows down, so I hope that my car will not be an exclusion.

Elon once posted that "even 90% should be fine" - if you don't need the full 90% all the time, charge to lower SoC. 50% is definitely "super-cautious", or in other words: useless. For what your usage seems to be, set it to 70% and all should be fine. I did the 90% thing for the first 40k km (now have 80k km on it) and my degradation was (and is) totally within the fleet level, even a little lower than the fleet average (means: better milage).

For all batteries, they are much longer lasting to keep them in a mid charge. You can see the scientific research but optimal would likely be between 20 and 60 percent charge. Doing this exponentially increases the number of charges the battery can do before failure. I would need to read again but doing 20 to 60% all the time would mean many thousands of charges before failure so battery would last 30+ years however even 5-90 every day battery will still cycle maybe 2000 times so likely 15 years plus. Supercharging is hard on batteries but the Pre heat helps a lot. In all just have it in mind not to hammer super charging, avoid less than 10 percent and avoid more than 80 percent of you can and the battery will last a lot longer. For your normal use keep between 30 and 50 percent shoukd be more than possible and mean the battery last longer than you 😂

That's amazing. I know it's in the shop now has it been holding up overall?

Tronity is what you need to look into

I also am in Australia and tried the instructions. The car did not enter service mode. Perhaps Australia uses a different password?

Same here....perhaps a little bit later (as always).

@@OnlyPenguian likely issues with right to repair in europe.... will likely get sorted next 1-2 years

@@kingprone7846 We are in Australia no where near Europe, we are considered part of Asia region.

@@lindsaybrown7639 thank you i live in australia nowdays. our teslas are considered EU.

No you can't start the test if you're over 50%. I started it at 7% state of charge.

What kind of Wh/M is your trip meter showing at the end of the day? Are you in a colder area right now?

Tesla efficiency is poor on the freeway and even worse if the climate isn't just perfect. Add passengers or cargo and the range drops further.

272 miles is if you keep driving at constant speed of 55 mph. 73mph would definitely killed 100+ miles because of the driving speed. Try to stay below 70mph you will definitely get more than 200 miles real world range.

Same problem here. But it's all highway and roughly 75mph+ 😅

@DODIE, $740 us for front control Link and I got mine done free at 24 months of ownership of Y. They also replaced the 2 lateral links. Poor quality control

Mine says the same thing, figured it’s a bug since no errors show up and wouldn’t know about it otherwise

@@echoplexhandlesaredumb just had it serviced and they found no leaks so they just topped off coolant. I paid $20.5 for coolant top off and $120.5 for diagnosis/labor.

@@dodie7431 can we find out the coolant level ourselves?

@@welbyroberto6581 I did checked the level myself to confirm i’m low on coolant before scheduling service. I had to remove the front tub/frunk to see the coolant reservoir and mine was a little bit below minimum. I thought being over 4 yr old car, it might lose a bit of coolant but it’s supposed to be a closed loop system. I could have topped it off myself but I want the peace of mind not having a leak somewhere.

He said he did and it got 100%

LFP Pack?

@@motofunk1 maybe I’m not sure

If battery health was at 8 percent, his range would be miniscule. The result of the test was faulty.

Because that practice degrades lithium ion batteries.

So why did his car have -% then?