Definitely. The future all of the cars are heading towards

He did one not long ago on high mileage s model

Just buy 2nd hand tyres if that is the case

;-) Smaller rolling-diameter when wearing out vs. new tires. This = Your car believes it drives longer than when on new tires & due to this, at an actual slower speed too vs. what the cars tells you. So just look forward to those new tires and enjoy :-)

@@ChipMIK I know the slightly smaller diameter makes a difference in the distance calculation but I have noticed my commute is using less battery percentage than 3 years ago. And it's a fact that older tires become more efficient but loses grip.

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Also my guess the newer grippier tyres are less efficient. Eco tyres for example don't tend to have the best grip but have better efficiency.

Of course, I have no idea of its impact on efficiency as I get 298 Wh/mile with the way I drive (mostly motorway)

Just wondered how you’re going with your 22 plate? I’m in a situation where I don’t know if I should go for the 21 or 22? Obviously the 21 is a bit cheaper but is it worth spending 3 grand more for the 22? Thanks.

Neither did I! Turns out California just approved a program to use these here as well!

The 19’s with Hankook tyres are pretty firm!!

Don't forget simple charging losses giving you that gap being what's delivered to the car and what your electric bill tells you. Converting home AC to DC for the car to charge with will incur losses ( heat in cable, losses in the conversion ) and expect that to be worse in winter. I have measured things too, so if I have say 16kWh going into the car battery , then I often found I have needed 18kWh to get there. Of course as you say using pre heat/cooling , Sentry etc will add to the "extra" energy needed. So as you know when people say they get 200Wh/mile or whatever the reality is that is it a bit more. It's a bit like filling an ICE car and a significant amount of the fuel evaporates away as you fill it and some evaporates away with the car standing.

I can see how charging losses can contribute - a bit like friction loss in pipes

😂😂

I have had my 2019 3P since march 19, its been very reliable and hasent cost me a lot in services. Running costs quite low, it also uses quite little energy for travel. So even quick charging on vacation is ok since it goes quite far on each charge. Most likely I will sell it now for a YP though (berlin one). I did testdrive an YP some days ago and I have two on order (will just keep one of them from the order).

Good point about the weight. Every little helps (or hinders).

Weight can make a difference bug from tests Bjørn Nyland did, it actually doesn't make that much difference. In fact one car he loaded to the gills and got a better consumption result (!) but he thought there could been a small gain from slightly lower ride height with the extra weight. I imagine the spoiler and number plate could make a significant difference.

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And potentially battery weight and driver weight differences.

True

The bigger battery would take longer if charging from the same state of charge. Say from 0% for example. But the point here was they both had to recharge what they used. Which was an almost identical amount. The charging speed was also clearly a little faster on the older car. Both cars triggered pre-heat for charging at the same time so we know the battery temps were the same

Imagine taking a pint of beer. Drink 30%. Then top up the 30% into a pint glass v a glass a bit bigger than a pint. The bit bigger than a pint glass should be able to top up faster, if anything

No - you’re not considering that you are measuring recharge rate by percentage of battery capacity. This doesn’t work when you have a constant input kilowatts but different sizes. Imagine that you had one battery that was twice the size of the other - in which case it would appear to charge at half the speed when measured as a percentage. In this case it isn’t twice - but it explains why the larger battery charges slower. Also, interesting observation about the number plate - I think you might be onto something there.

@@glenndotarcher it won't be just one thing: - more friction on the newer model (moving parts) - aerodynamic (spoiler, license plate) - heat pump, refrigeration pumps, lighting, etc that all together may work better but may also consume a little more

The 2021 is a China car, 75kwh, we assume Lg

See this video for pre-heat pump v heat pump model 3… kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iMqGpNSnvLexnGw.html

I'm not sure about the legality, but older cars such as the E type had stick on plates.

Vinyl plates are totally legal. What the plate is made from is not legislated, what is is the font size, actual font, spacing and required to be a reflective material. I got mine from proplates online.

@@dirkdiggler69 excellent. Thanks John, they look loads better. I am guessing it’s an easy switch

Bit of a pig to put on in that getting it straight and the air bubbles out. Think like putting a screen protector on your phone but fiddlier. Pro tip, spray some soapy water on the bumper, this will let you move the plates a bit when you put it on so you can get it just right. It will dry overnight and the plate won’t move when dried. Good luck.

@@dirkdiggler69 it's a shame that cars here in the UK have to display a front number plate. Motorcycles haven't needed one for years. I can still remember removing mine from my Bonneville.

That’s good. I love the rwd cars and they’re just so incredibly efficient

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A spoiler like that won't increase down force it will just reduce lift, technically it may actually increase efficiency as it could lower turbulent airflow attaching to the rear of the car. However, being that small it would only move the turbulent air back about 5cm

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2022 model - LFP battery @ 305 mile range.

Yes so that’s the newer bigger battery.

Have something in the pipeline for exactly this 😉 Just taking a while for BMW to release hundreds of cars that are sitting built and made but under recall and cannot be handed over.. 🤦‍♂️

@@RSEV Looking forward to it. Keep up the good work.

Not been able to measure

It’s a very grey area isn’t it on their legality. Some say they’re not after a certain (recent) date new… but I’m not clear… One like on this car certainly is correct font, spacing, reflective etc so I really don’t see the issue if all this is in place

@@RSEV I've had mine on my model 3 since April 2020 and not had any problem but would like to have one on any new Tesla I bought in the future. I'll just keep my fingers crossed 🤞😁

@@RSEV following watching this video (great, as always, by-the-way...!) I did a bit of research... So long as a registration plate meets the requirements of the British Standard BS AU 145e, then they should be perfectly legal, stick-on or not. SO WHAT DO PLATES HAVE TO BE UNDER THE E STANDARD? Durable and able to resist: Impact - Stone chips and minor parking collisions are unfortunately part of driving. The impact test ensures the plate’s longevity. Bending - The components that make up a plate can separate from each other when the plate is bent. This is sometimes called plate delamination. The bend test prevents delamination on BNMA member supplied plates. Thermal change - The UK’s changeable temperature necessitates this test. The plate’s shape and size must remain the same when subjected to heat and cold. Abrasion (NEW) - Plates stay clear and easy-to-read if they pass the abrasion test. This protects against repeated exposure to dirt, road grime and jet-washing. Being removed from a vehicle - Provided adhesive pads are placed correctly along the plate, it will take over 160 hours of consistent pressure to detach a plate that passes the E standard. Weathering - The weathering test under BS AU 145d remains the same under BS AU 145e. It’s a key and extensive test and replicates 2,275 hours of UV exposure; 2½ times more than some other European number plate test schedules. Dirt - As a subset of the weathering test, plates must be able to resist simulated dirt.

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White or black they are the same. It’s only the colour that’s different

@@RSEV thanks Richard, I’m sure I heard someone say on a video that the white ones were softer. Or maybe one of the Tesla salesmen when I went for my test drive.

Yes not something I’d considered until reading the comments. But I still think it’s the number plate 💁‍♂️😂

@@RSEV You could be correct about that my friend.

Yes, one reason for the higher energy consumption.

Interesting.., that much energy used by Ryzen?

@@RSEV yes, I believe that was also the reason for the bigger battery. Also I assume you had the sentry mode set the same on both cars?

@@RSEV When I ordered the M3 LR in January 2022 the information about the range drop was due to the new AMD Ryzen. You also may have a bit higher internal resistance in the new battery? Therefore the slower charging?

The overall efficiency remains the same if you pre-heat or not. All that happens when you get to the charger without pre-heating is that the battery heater comes on and the car charges slower until the pack has heated. Pre-heating just consumes that energy while you are driving rather than sat on the charger. You either get a more efficient drive or a more efficient and faster charge. You could argue when the car is driving it has more options to raise battery temperature without using extra energy, when it's stationary it can only actively heat it. Finally, this is a comparison of two vehicles capability. Pre-heating is part of the capability and if one car does it better then that is relevant to the test being performed. They also drove the cars for 50 miles without pre-heating and the older car was still more efficient.

@@insanityideas - I don't think the displayed efficiency does ignore the battery pre-heating whilst driving. It counts all energy used whilst moving. It will ignore the heating whilst stationary though. At least that is my experience with my Model 3, which does a lot of battery heating cos i live in central Norway. Yes, you can argue that it is a test of the two car's capabilities, but the larger capacity battery probably has slightly greater weight. It certainly has a different materials make-up, which means a different (probably higher) heat capacity and a different amount of energy needed to heat it by the same number of degrees.

@@15bit62 Exactly my point, they were trying to compare two different cars but keeping other variables the same. So if the bigger battery does have more thermal mass that will affect pre-heating and therefore overall efficiency of the vehicle when on a trip involving fast charger use. The fact the bigger battery is disadvantaged by pre-heating is actually relevant to the test they were doing. And it will be relevant to any customer that regularly does journeys using DC fast chargers, because even if they don't pre-heat, the car will insist on heating the battery whilst it's charging meaning that a bigger battery charges less efficiently.

@@15bit62 I use Teslamate with my car to grab some extra data because I was curious about how pre-heating worked and if I could save electricity by turning it off and suffering a slower charge (conclusion was that you can't, and actually heating whilst driving may use less energy on a plug to wheel basis) You are correct, the on screen efficiency numbers are all energy out of the battery, so when the car pre-heats the battery during a drive displayed efficiency does go down. The amount of extra power used varies, it can be using extra 7kw just to heat the battery, or as little as 1kw (measured from Teslamate realtime power consumption with the vehicle stationary during pre-heat). What the car doesn't show you is the efficiency of the charge session, it shows energy flow rate into the battery, but Tesla supercharger and all other chargers bill for energy delivered to the car. So if you turn up with a cold battery it will take 7kw of available power from the charger to heat the battery, and that's completely wasted energy (unless it's a heat pump car and the weather is cold, in which case it will heat the cabin from the stored heat in the battery). This is why if you plug into a slow 50kw/100Amp DC charger you might see a charge rate in the car of 27kw rather than the possible 35kw that the charger can achieve and is delivering. This is the difference between what's delivered to the car and what makes it to the battery. Note: Partially discharged battery has charging voltage of 350v which at 100Amp is 35kw. All those 50kw or 120kw chargers only achieve that power level on 500v or 800v cars. The number that matters is the Amps that can be delivered, which is hidden in small print on the charger rating plate. AC charging is usually more efficient in this regard because the car has a much lower battery temperature target when charging at slower speeds. Still needs to heat in cold temperatures, but during the summer it's just running the coolant pump to keep temperatures even, no heating or cooling is taking place.

In response to original comment… 158it Firstly we did say in the video they both started preheating at the same time. A sign battery temps were the same. Secondly, the second part of the journey did not include any preheating as it was back to the office. Same results… and despite the newer car using the aero covers. FYI 75 and 78.8kwh Cars. We never had the 82 long range, only in the performance.

No LFP is only the Standard Range