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Hey, jeweller here with some info about the saw blades! Basically our rule is that you want at least three teeth in contact with the edge of metal at all times, this will eliminate the blade skipping and greatly reduce breakages. This means it's best to keep a few different sizes on hand for different material thicknesses and here's what I recommend. For

Adam's capacity for remembering the names of seemingly everyone he's ever met, worked with, or interacted with continues to blow my simply human mind. I feel like that shows a true generosity of spirit

We need a video build of a rolling library ladder against the back 14’ wall!

There's nothing as permanent as a temporary solution.

Hi Adam. I am the person who made the Master & Commander Belt buckle Steve Neill gave you. I an a jeweler.. As far as jeweler's saw blades go the Laser Gold from Rio Grande work fantastic ( a lot harder to break mostly ). Though I use blades from the absolute cheapest to the higher end ones, they all work great. Learning to hold the jeweler's saw as lightly as you can while rotating the piece as much as you rotate the saw frame is a good skill to try to develop. I might recommend getting some mid-priced blades in several sizes to try out as breaking them is how you learn to us a light touch. They run about $3.40 a dozen. The thicker the metal, the easier to break, but if you use a blade with too wide a tooth spacing it catches bad too. The blade choice should always be that the blade should have at minimum 2 teeth in the material. Yeah, I often use whatever blade is in the saw which isn't alway 2 teeth = thickness of the metal. And I sometimes use a blade that is waaay to fine in thick metal which leaves a nice shiny cut, but takes way more time and breaks more blades. You might find a saw blade size that can do most of what you cut. Then get a gross of that size for $20-$50 per gross. I would actually recommend this assortment with a standard small 3" saw frame and some Bur-Life lubricant. The BurLife is a must for thicker metals. When I say "a must" I mean much smoother sawing with less effort and less blade breakage. www.riogrande.com/product/laser-gold-saw-blade-most-popular-assortment-kit-pkg144/110328GP/?code=110328&_t_id=jP3VIJ6NCa9AJHP1_0K36w==&_t_uuid=0b3bae4d-584e-4603-a4f4-751246833d37&_t_q=saw+blades+saw+blades&_t_hit.id=Commerce_Products_Product/CatalogContent_50caea87-2307-47a3-bd55-5bb7324cf686_en&_t_hit.pos=11

The Bosch hand planner that is in its box under my bench is happy to know it has friends lol

Since Adam’s been chatting about things that are stored outside the cave, I’d love to see a tour of *that* storage. The duffle bags, the costume/project overflow, the m7 relics….

Hearing Adam talk about tools he bought and didn't really use makes me feel better

@5:55 the tool that scares me the most in my shop is the jointer. The table saw will gouge you or messily sever a body part. A jointer will turn whatever body part that happens to enter it into a reddish mist

My old shop teacher would have appreciated and shared your knowledge of tools. To say the first day of his class was a test on tool identification by correct name. Needless to say I'm now a stickler on tool names till this day . Example there are well over 40 different kinds of pliers, you will learn the 6 different types you will be learning by name, Mr Lock was a great Industrial Arts teacher. You remind me alot of Him Adam , as well as a family Of MB... Cheers To Great Teachers

I still dont have a clue what he's talking about when it comes to tools etc, but Adam is so amazing to listen to, his love and passion shines through and ita comforting and although I can't build anything that's more than lego I'm hooked on watching Adam making things. I have a genuine appreciation for makers.

Yup, I have a Ryobi hand planer that gets used once every few years. It works just well enough to not get rid of it.

As my dad once noted: "The more 'things' something does, the fewer 'things' it does well"

Lmao. Love seeing Adam's thought process happen on camera. Talks about bees in bonnet behavior, later on (talking about the new saws potential to complete stalled projects), demonstrates bees in bonnet process activate...

I picked up a knew jewelers saw based off of your video with the makers, and I love it. Most of the accomplished jewelers I see mentioning a specific blade type say Herkules, but after I broke one I put in an unbranded german blade that came from some pack in a kit, and I cant say I see a difference. The "march in place, dont push the saw" tip was what has helped me the most.

A powered hand planer is a handy tool - but probably not as much in the venue you operate. If you were refitting old doors & double hung windows & such, it'd be a daily use item. For cutting in coping saws, if your saw can clamp bulk blade (without specialized ends), check into a roll of veterinarian's wire, sometimes called OB wire - it cuts a lot of things neatly and quickly, and you can buy it by a roll, giving you lots of options for size.

Clearly a future project should be designing and building a rolling library ladder for the back wall :-).

For those who don't want to drop a ton of money on a high quality coping saw, consider a wooden bow saw. They can be very cheap and much stiffer than a cheap coping saw.

For fine precision work, my go to is a file. The tiny thin file with the teeth on the side tend to cut faster than you think. That keyway wouldn't take that long.

Your monologue on the saw design aesthetics is very pure hearted and true. I hope they see that. What a compliment.

Adam, your comments about the colors on the jeweler's saw are spot on. It reminds me of the saying "how you do anything is how you do everything."

Tips from a Shipwright legend Louis Sauzedde does amazing work with a ryobi electric planer.

Speaking of tools. When I first started watching Mythbusters, I had such respect for your talent that when I noticed you using a DeWalt drill, I started my tool kit with a DeWalt.

**casually drops chatting with the guy who made the infinity gauntlet like**

My first thought was that Adam needs a rolling ladder for his back wall. Then I thought, he's a maker so it should be retractable. Then I thought, he's got friends so they should help him make it controllable with a remote. So Adam needs a double spring loaded rolling ladder that can first rotate from horizontal storage on the roof down to a nice 70 degree climbing angle. Then a second spring or pneumatic that can extend or retract the ladder down to the ground. And finally some system to control it all with a garage door opener.

Nice to know that even the experts can learn new things. I just got done with an accessibility project, putting a lift on a recliner for my dad to have an easier time getting in and out of it, and I was feeling a bit the fool for managing to twist off a wood screw because I drilled the wrong size pilot hole.

I love the comment towards the end about attention to detail with regards to colours. Often overlooked, but if you know what to look for you can find many more of these small, deliberate aesthetics on just about every (what I would consider) artisan tool you can get your hands on. If you can make the tool do the thing it's designed to do fantastically, why spare the rest of the design from having the same attention to detail? This is what keeps me coming back to using some of the tools I have in my collection so far, and moreover loving to use them.

Terrified of the hand planer too. I gave mine to this girl I knew because she had a sticking door. "You want it back now?" "No. Not on your life..."

Adam - You made my daughter's day down at the Planet Comic Con in Kansas City. She was a huge fan of Myth Busters in her teens!

Those telescoping ladders are perfect for getting to high shelves in tight areas. Instead of having to wrestle a long extension ladder through a confined area.

Here is an odd suggestion, a 2 poster vehicle hoist. I know the chances of a vehicle ever entering your shop are basically zero, BUT they are great for lifting left heavy, unweildy items to variable heights so you can work on them.

My shop teacher was awesome, loved the pop quizzes on Tool Names The correct name for tools so satisfying

Hearing Adam talk about temporarily putting a machine somewhere years ago and it still being there years later reminds me of the statement 'Nothing is more permanent than a temporary solution.'

for high storage, get yourself a painter pole and make a hook that screws on the end. This allows you to hook small things dow from up high. This is how I handle many of my theatre lanterns that get stored in the rafters.

Knew Concepts and Bridge City Tool Works both make beautiful, high quality tools. I also like MicroJig products, especially the FitFinder 1/2 Jig (amazing setup tool).

As facilities maintenance at uni, I used electric hand planars every year as a temp fix for decades old wooden doors that had swollen over time from moisture exposure and suddenly would not close.

Stumpy Nubs similarly just did a video about quality bow/fret/coping saws, and how most modern cheap coping saws are commodity trash that only serve to make us hate coping saws!

Engineering / Design Challenge: How about a rolling library stair to access the Z-Space?

In defense of the Ryobi planer, I used one to make large chamfers on sime big aluminum castings. Had no issues at all, handled fine, always felt in control. Ended up removing several pounds of aluminum with one set of carbide blades, which still cut nicely.

Your common tongue might seem simple to others but, to an amateur your knowledge is everything. Thank you.

I have the Ryobi hand planer, in the 15-18 years I have owned it I have found 1 use. On several occasions when replacing old carpet with new thicker carpet or when adding carpet to a room that had a hard floor, the door will rub the carpet and the hand planer is a good way to remove the excess.

Key to using a jewelers saw is establish your elbow as a solid pivot point and make consistent up/down strokes vertically without adding pressure in the direction of your line. If your saw goes off vertical or you push too hard along the line the blade will break. The idea is to use consistent vertical motion that allows the blade to do all the work and remove material at its own pace.

Rolling Library Ladder build coming soon! lol

Picked up a little vintage table saw branded Jarmac some years back. Haven't used it beyond a few test cuts but I have always treasured big little plans for it.

Back when I was doing architectural glass art I had a Ryobi cordless drill. Every time I was on job site the contractors looked at it and then gave me a look like I should get back on the Group W bench. They all had DeWalt or Milwaukee or Brosche tools. Over the years I found several things to be true about my Ryobi. 1. it worked just fine, never a problem with it until I finally wore it out. 2. Nobody ever wanted to borrow it so I didn't have to go hunting it down when I needed it. 3. Nobody stole it. All of the guys who had the name brand tools were always complaining about how their tools walked off the job site. I've also had a couple of Ryobi corded drills-unlike all of the name brand tools-they all had really nice long power cords.

Wouldn't some 'library-stairs' make sence to get into your back-cupboards on hight easier? I wish I had this hight for storage in my little shop.... literary constantly moving thngs around to use one tool and then move all things back to get to the next part of the work. This week for example I needed to cut something on the little tablesaw... so I put my saw together, up from the back of the shed. When I started it, the axel in the motor-unit (drill-machine) was not turning well, so I needed to move a lot of things to get to my welder.... then repair that, get the angle-grinder and things to make it work...put it back on and put the saw to action, and move the welder back for that... One cut (I now made 3) took almost a day this way... and now the saw can be taken apart again, boxed up and put back where it was so I can use my lathe again...

Have we seen projects/builds using the benchtop mill?

Over the last year I've been taking jewelry making classes intermittently with my comp sci work and have fallen in love with jewlers saws. And it totally just made my day to see you have this new appreciation. Never grow up Adam.

Super Pike; made in Vallorbe (Switzerland) -Jewelers saw-blades roundback first quality: No. 0 I uses these for my work in copper & silver. There also good for acrylic & timber. I can cut out the silhouette of a fairy wren accurately, consistently & really quickly. When I first started [silver smithing] using a coping saw I was going through SO many blades per task. The sound of them snapping was becoming a trigger. Now I only replace the blades when the teeth are worn out. I’m I was surprised when I realised I hadn’t broken a blade for weeks. Over time & repetition it becomes less and less of an issue.

I bought a ryobi hand plane and must say it was the perfect tool for odds and ends jobs like trimming the bottom of a door after updating flooring. Taking a thin layer of a 2x and other trimming objects

It’s my understanding that there are different jeweler saw blades for different materials and thicknesses.

Would be fun to see adam making one or more great big library type ladder(s) that would slide around his tall storage areas

Stumpy Nubs just made a video about building your own saw of this type in the old-timey way, and claims it works just as well if not better than these fancy titanium ones. Possible one-day build/test and try idea?

“This thing is so spectacularly rigid, it’s magnificent.” Among all other things, Adam’s tool videos are a great party game. Take a drink every time you could have interjected, “That’s what she said.” You will quickly get hammered. 😂

'Key surround' is called an 'Escutcheon".

Like you, I discovered the value of the jeweler's saw late in life. I love the spiral-cut blades sold through Rockler. I have a variety of them in various tooth counts and diameters. I have four or five saws (though none are as cool as the one you have). Another tool that I had the same "wow, this works great" is a die filer. If you do not have one, you should look into it. I made mine from a kit I ordered online about ten years ago. It uses small bits of files to help shape small pieces of metal by hand to almost any shape you can imagine. Loved your show and I love your channel. Thanks for the entertainment.

I had a tablesaw kick back event once about 12 years ago and it literally threw a 2x3' sheet of ply wood all the way across the room... Didn't get hurt at all, but I've never touched a tablesaw since!

Adam your busted that scroll saw tiny little jobs is a must have in the shop.

Tip for the jewelry saws is to wax the blades they last longer- you’ll notice a difference in pitch from the sound of whatever you’re cutting and when you apply the wax it’ll change. Once you get used to it, you’ll notice the difference of a wax versus unwaxed blade just by the sound and it’ll save you a lot of money and blades and time changing the blades

In my brief stint doing jewelry work, I found that the inexpensive blades were best for my jeweler's saw. Not because they are any higher quality, but rather the lower quality forced me to get into good cutting habits with the saw. Having blades that break extremely easily if you aren't tensioning the saw correctly or being gentle and letting the saw do the work for you is a great way to force you to learn those habits.

"What I do have is a very particular set of sorting racks. Sorting racks acquired over a very long career."

That key surround thing has a cool name. It is an escutcheon. I like saying it. For a good scroll saw, look for a Hegner. German made. They are orange. They are built so well. Don’t fear a used one. I bought used and refurbished to like new because they are made so well. Parts available. US distributor. That said. I also use a fret saw. Knew Concepts, of course, but have not updated to the bridge construction titanium.

I agree with your feelings about routers and table saws/any circular saw blade using tool.

Hey Adam, I've been in awe of you and Jamie Hyneman since I was a young man watching myth busters from the beginning. Your ingenuity and creativity and persistence was inspiring. I'm looking forward to the day that I can pass your creation on to my children just as much as Indiana Jones and star wars. I'm a professional bench jeweler, and use a saw everyday. It's not about the saw it's about the magnification and consistency of your stoke. Any saw with a good blade will cut in a straight line. The ability to see your cut, and adjust left is key. As with any hand tool don't force it, just a gentle up and down, let the tool do the work. If you push the saw it will wander left and right. Best thing is to imagine the blade as a piece of wide flat wire that you are pressing edge on into a hard surface. As you push it wants to flex left or right. Gold pike blades are the best. 4/0 blades are our general purpose blade size. But depends on thickness and density of material your cutting. Brass of less than 3mm, 4/0 is fine. Thicker Material, lower the number, 5mm brass 3/0 or 2/0. After size 2 or 4 it's more mine a coping saw. Definitely tune the saw like a guitar. For me and my basic German solid steel and wood saw is a high C. If the blade is too loose it will bend and fatigue early and break. You can tell if it's too loose if you loosen the blade on one end and it curles up into a U shape. Either you've been cutting something very hard or the blade is too loose. Using this saw is an art, And there is so much feel to this art. Im trying to find a way to help you find the balance in verbal / text form. It all comes town to tension of the blade. It needs to be tight but not so tight that it snaps. Loose but not so loose that it bends too much and breaks. As with the Japanese carpenters saw, loose grip, let the tool do the work, and patience. Even though it's simple, it's still a precision instrument. I've been at it for years and am still humbled. Good luck and thanks for all your insights over the years. -Austin-

Side comment about the table saw; I think it is right and proper to be terrified of table saws and never be comfortable around them.

I don't have a shed but are into cooking and can completely relate to buying gadgets and gizmos that i rarely if ever use

Why am I not surprised that Adam has "Embalming Tools" in his shop! Love the esoterica of Adam and his tools!

Meeting you at Fan Expo Vancouver was so cool. It’s driving me nuts, who was the lady taking the money and standing beside you?

If you ever want to get rid of a vacformer……I would be INCREDIBLY interested and grateful….thank you

I've been a prop maker for over 30 years and I Love Ryobi tools! I've never had a problem with them they do the job and if you're on a gig and one of your Ryobi tools walks away which happens as you know on some jobs! And they're not really that expensive to replace!

I have a bunch of Ryobi stuff that has taken an unbelievable beating and still runs. In fact nothing Ive ever bought from them has yet died from anything except me using/abusing it for stuff it wasnt meant to be doing...

I have made key surrounds like that as well. I file the square portion with a needle file, which is how I suspect how they were originally formed.

Perhaps you could design access to high storage with a library? type ladder that moves side to side on wheels that could also fold flat against the shelves/racks when not in use.

The funny thing is, despite watching you change your mind almost in real time, I still believe 100% in my soul that using a hand saw to cut metal would be an exercise in patience I would ABSOLUTELY fail.

I could listen to Adam talk tool's for hours , Thank you Adam .

Adam, regarding your frustration with accessing Z-space storage, have you considered setting up a cable rig system similar to a SkyCam system used to move a camera around a stadium?

Hand planer is great for door fitting especially really old doors going into an old frame where none are square and you need to splice on a filler that has to fill the uneven space. You can easily hog off to get close then go fine to finish. Lots of chips and dust though.

Adam's excellent taste in tools is demonstrated by his Wilton "bullet" vise seen in the background. Adam, what you need is a nice American-made Hardinge lathe and mill now vintage, made in Elmira NY. The best tool-room lathe in the world.

You know what the mini-table saw is really good for? Cutting grooves for sliding box lids! I'm currently making a box and I want it to have an acrylic lid set into the wood, and the mini-table saw has a 3mm blade on it, the default width of most acrylic sheets!

Ha Ha! I have a mini table saw that I set up years ago. I've always thought of getting a diamond blade and using it to cut semiprecious stones but haven't used it yet.

Absolutely love my lunarepelicas Apollo watch straps. Cool to see them asking questions on tested.

Get some Swiss jewellers/watchmakers frame saw blades - Vallorbe, Bergeon etc. In the UK I buy them from Cookson or HS Walsh but you'll find them anywhere. Rio Grande are in the US

I've used jeweler's saw almost daily for 45 years (brass musical instruments) and have done well with the best frames after modifying them. I ordered the less expensive Knew frame after seeing your video and I'm very happy with it as it came, except I will install a larger wooden handle (arthritis and I don't like the bicycle foam). The blades that he sells cut straighter than what I've gotten from jewelry and repair suppliers, but don't last nearly as long (suggestions welcome).

Adam, you need one of those rolling ladders like they have in the fancy shops or library so you may traverse the great heights without fear or having to work up your gumption to tackle the task.

I bought a piece of infrastructure that got delivered yesterday... and immediately on opening it up, I decided that I didn't like it. I wanted to solve a problem and I thought it'd help, but it just made the problem worse... So now I have TWO problems.

Adam jesteś niezwykle pozytywnym człowiekiem oglądanie Twoich filmów daje mi wiele pozytywnej energii . Pozdrawiam z Polski Adam, you are an extremely positive person, watching your videos gives me a lot of positive energy. Greetings from Poland

It's funny he mentions his electric hand planer, because I have one that I love, it does passes from 0-1/8" in 1/64' increments, and it just works splendidly for removing layers of wood and finding the average of a surface's level. That being said, it will rarely keep your boards square unless that is your only goal, and you better make it all the way down your board or you're going to get a radius you will never get out unless you start that thing perfectly where you stopped.

When we are working with wood or metal at school I always pick up coping saw because i hate using the scroll saws

Blades should have 3-5 teeth per thickness of material. Have a wad of beeswax on hand to lubricate the blade every 20-30 strokes. Saw on a jewelers V block and don’t be afraid to cut new slots into it as needed. Blades usually break when using too much forward pressure, allowing the work piece to chatter on the up stroke, or turning too rapidly. All 3 are solved by having a lighter touch and sawing up and down. Spiral blades are not really necessary.

Im not an expert but the saw blades i use are swiss made glardon vallorbe blades. They come in different variations and tooth sizes depending on your needs. You will problably end up breaking most saws before you dull them

have you considered making a Liberians ladder for your back wall?

You need a spray booth. Even a simple shower curtain that can be pulled out and used or hung from your 14 ft ceiling on a pulley that you can drop down to use and hoist back up would really save on overspay and dust getting on everything

I love my Kreg pocket hole jig. I use it alot

Those poor tools, i wouldn't know what to do with myself if Adam Savage were disappointed in me.

You may want to look specifically for jeweler's saw blades. They're much finer, and made for metal sheets, not wood.

You could add a rolling ladder like old libraries had attached around the walls to optimize storage on the z axis but convenience comes at a cost

For the items stored high up on the wall, a library style sliding ladder would be supercool. Just a thought.

I've been building a small obstacle course for my kids, using logs from stone trees that fell in a storm. The powered plane has been a godsend for roughing things out. 100x faster than using a sharp drawknife and probably 10-20x faster than even sanding with an angle grinder and 36 grit flap disk. I also used it to plane a beam for my mantle and it worked a treat. Barely required any sanding once I got the hang of using it on the most shallow cut setting.

I bought a power plane when I was excavating the T&G Doug Fir floor in our kitchen from under 4-5 layers of flooring from the 40's-'70's, all tarred or glued down to form a composite of about ⅜". I tried a power floor scraper, sanding, chiseling to no avail. The power plane saved the day. I bought spare blades when I bought, figuring I'd kill the originals, but other than needing to clean them & the plane drum w/ solvent, it was 5-6 years before I needed to replace them. I was a bit skitish about the power plane, but after 10-15 hrs of planing the composite tar & paper layer from the fir floor, it was an old friend. It is a great way to remove wood from clear lumber, old clear lumber or anything you cannot risk a splinter or bad saw blade chowder. It leaves a surface which need finish sanding only. It is the perfect tool for wood removal when the piece is too large or unwieldly for even 2 people on a table saw. With practice, you can plane square in 2 dimensions, & it is the only tool I will ever use to reduce the size of a door; effed up too many w/ any saw I've tried or by routing them. Saw cut or route doors long enough & you will mess one up. Not with the power plane. I even have a power plane from the '50's made by the company Porter Cable bought in the '40's & then claimed they invented the router. It & a matching router were later sold under the Stanley brand. I bought it because I have the matching router & they both are exquisite show pieces of the art deco industrial era of power tool when everything was polished aluminum, rounded & solidly over built & over powered. The router is the power plant on my router table, in original form, OEM bearings AND brushes, at least 75 yrs old! Close to 30 years were spent in a Portland 2nd hand store in the old downtown pawn shop row. I bought it from Mike, a great old Greek immigrant in the 90's, when he retired & sold everything off. It was buried in the back of a 2ft deep cabinet, in like new condition w/ a 1940 patent date. A new cord & it ran like a Formula E, but looks better. Get that power plane out & become friends w/ it, you will find all kinds of uses for it, if you do. It'll take off a 64th, if that's you need, or you can hog off a ½" in no time at all, w/ no saw dust in your face. GeoD