It depends on what you define as yield. If my yield is only measured in potatoes this year, and I actively mine the soil to produce only potatoes this year in a potato monoculture, then yes, my yield will be higher in a potato monoculture. But that's because I'm externalities the loss of nutrients and topsoil to future years and ignoring it in my definition of yield. This is very common short sighted thinking. If I add in basil and garlic and Yarrow and clover to my potato patch, and still only measure the potato yield, then even though I'm supporting more insects, some of the leaves of those other plants will block sunlight from my potatoes, and my potato yield will still be lower. However, even though the problem isnt that I'm externalizing loss of topsoil to future years anymore, I'm still ignoring all other yields but potatoes, so my calculation of yield still shows a reduction in potatoes. That's not a proper yield calculation though, because I'm ignoring all other yields. If instead I also include the basil yield, the Yarrow medicinal yield, the nitrogen enrichment from the clover, the biomass yield of any unused leaves that are mulched and turn to topsoil for next year, and the increased photosynthesis root exudate yield into the soil, which causes a swell of bacteria and fungi which use the glues and secretions to break up sand silt clay and form soil aggregates for next year, then my yield calculation now blows the first one out of the water. The problem is a lack of understanding of what should go into a yield calculation, as well as our current ignorance of the externalization of losses to the future soil, and failure to account for those losses in our misinformed yield calculations. Pinning this one, because it's such an important discussion, I could actually make an entire video followup on it.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacywould love to see that video. I’ve recently been learning about HANPP (human appropriated net primary production) and it being used as a measure of how far we’ve transgressed the functional aspect of the biosphere integrity planetary boundary. Your example of a field growing only potatoes is a prime example of HANPP that is making us transgress that particular planetary boundary and is linked to the mass extinction of species that we’re witnessing. It’s making me highly aware of how much of the net primary production (energy) on my property do I appropriate for my use, and how much do I leave for the use of all the other species (plant, animal, insect, fungi). A great lens to have on growing, I think.

@@lizt.5374 What an incredibly on point comment. This is exactly what I'm talking about. It's also a big reason why we have all these conservation programs to support Panda bears, and so few trying to preserve the Karner Blue caterpillar, even though the latter provides infinitely stronger benefits. Humans just think Pandas are cute. Another example is how we spray nemicide in fields to destroy ALL nematodes, despite the fact that humans have only catalogued an estimated 1% of all nematode species on earth. So we don't even KNOW what we're killing, yet we just carpet bomb it all, because one of them eats the roots of our precious corn.

Vandana Shiva has some interesting counterpoints to the yield argument for conventional farming and GMOs in particular. From an interview with her: “Through participatory research, we showed that when you intensify biodiversity instead of chemicals, and measure nutrition per acre instead of yield per acre, we can grow enough nutrition for two times the world population. New research is showing that native seeds have higher nutrition than industrially bred “high-yielding varieties", which are nutritionally empty and full of toxins.” Our local Fall Fair still awards prizes for the largest, most “perfect looking” vegetables, but many growers and permaculture enthusiasts have helped introduce new categories that don’t eliminate smaller or oddly shaped fruits and veggies, which may often have higher nutritional value. Many of us really want to see a “highest nutrition” category. We’re not there yet as the tools/testing for this is not cheap or easily accessible, but maybe soon!

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy Please do a follow-up! My grandfather in Newfoundland practiced this integrated method of working with the land. He was enthusiastic in sharing his ever-accumulating knowledge with his grandchildren, and anyone else who was interested in developing the land and ocean. Similar to yourself and others, he developed systems which harmonized and benefited Nature, as well as ourselves…often to my grandmother’s bemusement - LOL!🙂 Thank you for another insightful video. Cheers!🇨🇦

They act like we don’t have entire civilizations hidden under jungles and hills still today

Lol, therefore, if he left his yard alone it would be "better". So we wasted time watching his video... We should just leave things alone

@@DZMYQD go spend a day with an old friend or something grumpy butt.

​@DZMYQD if you put work into setting up a food forest in an abandoned area you can speed up the natural process while benefitting yourself and the local wildlife/ ecosystem.

I happen to make shirts and sell on Etsy! I could make one for you! 😊

Great to hear!

I like this

Good luck!!

This is great. I love when people know the principles, and also when it's okay to relax them a little, in the favor of ease of harvest. It shows true understanding.

❤️

Your thinking is already so advanced and ahead of the curve of where I was when I started my project here. You will do amazing things on your land.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy There are more and more small holders that are going this way in my area. It is a real juxtaposition to the big farms surrounding us with all of their massive equipment, corn/soy rotations, etc.

DW article.

How unfortunate 😢

Check out any of Jeff Lowenfels' books: Teeming with Microbes, Teeming with Fungi, Teeming with Nutrients. They're amazing, and I believe that's where I first learned of exudates. Phenomenal stuff.

Sounds like you are in the same position I am. When I moved to my hillside property, the garden was 2 acres of exhausted ex-sheep pasture, a third bare rock, the rest just a thin, very poor quality turf. It was terrible, and without a job and my husband just part time, we had no money to buy in tons of soil. This had to be done naturally. Firstly, if you have soil to spare along your boundaries - plant a mixed hedge made of native shrubs/trees, nectar rich shrubs for the bees, and particularly plants that produces a lot of growth in the year - so you can cut it, stack it, let it break down naturally, the rain washing the composted particles and nutrients downhill (chuck some fungi caps in there - research your fungi first - and that helps break down the woody stems all the faster. Hedgerows generate leaves to add substance to your garden. They encourage animals that live, eat, poop and die in your hedgerow. They shelter the rest of your property, cutting wind speeds so the leaves don't travel too far. Here's something I wish I'd done earlier - collect plain cardboard from shops when you go grocery shopping. Stack the card in your garden, place a brick on it, let it rot. I've been doing this for a while, and it breaks down so fast, adding a little material to your soil You can get brown boxes with black print on it. But don't use those with other colours. Do you go for walks where you live? Bring home a couple of sticks, chuck them in your garden, let them rot. I do this a lot. Do you have a stream running through your property? Collect Autumn leaves from it before they wash away down stream. Do you have 'boggy, marshy, or fairly permanent damp spots' in your garden? Buy willow cuttings somewhere like eBay, and plunge them in the ground. They'll root, throw forth lots of excessive growth, cut each Autumn, stack the sticks, let them rot I made the mistake of depending on Salix alba for waste generation for years (because I liked the pretty stem colour in winter). However, Salix alba isn't as fast as some willows, is hit and miss if you try to grow more plants from cuttings and isn't as useful in other ways. 18 months ago, I got my brain into gear, bought cuttings of Salix viminalis, and these look more promising. This is the classic basket willow and 18 months after receiving my 10 initial unroofed cuttings, I now have nearly 40 plants in the ground, the majority of these being newly rooted cuttings I took from my original stock last Autumn. I will keep taking cuttings from these plants for a few years, make a large swathe of willows - this to attract Willow Warblers, which attract Cuckoos, the Cuckoo chicks also being dumped in the nests of other birds that might be eating fruit from my plants. It all connects. Start with fruit bushes before fruit trees. Fruit bushes won't end up meaning sideways after a storm, like my first fruit trees did. The roots of many fruit bushes will tolerate shallow and poor soils much better. Start with currants, raspberries and thornless hybrids of blackberries. Raspberries - don't be tempted to get a wild species 'to feed the birds.' It spreads very aggressively and you're never really rid of the stuff. Get early and late varieties of raspberry, but 'For the love of Pete!' do not buy that yellow berried raspberry. It is the worst, most insipid fruit I've ever tasted. When it rains, just a bit, it turns to mould. It's either unripe, or slush. It's never at a good point of freshness. I have red Summer, Autumn raspberries in plenty. I planted black, peach and purple raspberries, but haven't had a thing off them yet, and this is after waiting 3 years. What's going on, Idk. Other good berries ate Loganberries and Tayberries, if you can get them. With the Loganberry, one plant goes a long way. They tip layer, and you can't turn your back on them for a minute. Tayberries are more restrained, pricklier, and the fruit a bit smaller. Gooseberries are fairly tolerant of shallow soil, but my plants do better in the shade than in open positions. I think the roots cook a bit too much, so they tend to drop their fruits if unhappy. Guelder Rose - not a conventional. Actually poisonous until you cook them for 20 minutes. I'm still here, so that's proof cooking them works. Be brilliant at taking cuttings and make it your annual obsession. The more ground I cover with fruit bushes, the more leaves above grass/weed level, the more organic material you're adding. Because I have deer issues, I surround a lot of my fruit plants with plants deer don't find so delectable. These just so happen to be nectar rich plants that aid bees and pollinators, are wonderfully common, easy to block up once you don't need them, and propagate like a dream - Spiraea, Weigela, Buddleia, Symphoricarpus. With these in the garden, and the thornless blackberries - you'll be considering beehives (my neighbour has loads, and the garden buzzes all summer long). After quite a few years, you will have soil enough for trees. Don't rush it or you will be disappointed. Take it from me, I've been there, done it, and regretted it. I did plant a few trees in containers first. Indeed, my peach tree is still in its original pot and very happy there. But finally, after 21 years of working at this place, I have cherries, plums, apples, a pear, Aronia, Blueberries galore, Honey berries and a ton of Hazel but trees. All fairly small and young, but they are fruiting nonetheless. You have to learn to develop an eye for taking advantage of any opportunity to grab organic matter when you can. I pick up sticks and branches on walks, pine cones, pine needles for the ericaceous plants. Oh wow, wait. Nearly forgot something. Spring bulbs are powerful soil builders. No, didn't expect that either. I collect and sow bulb seed from my original bulbs every year, spreading them over the grass/weed areas. (I'm in the UK, so Bluebells, Snowdrops, Snowflakes, Wood Sorrel, Wood Anemones, and Wild Arum. You likely have others. But where these grow, my soil is dark, moist and rich as can be. Bulbs are highly underrated, great food source for early bees and a real kickstart for later plants when the leaves die back. You won't regret it). I also go for ferns a lot. I grow these in problem areas mostly, harvest the leaves in Autumn, and mulch under favourite plants. They break down into the most perfect compost. I also plant seedling trees that are only in place temporarily, just so they can add organic matter for as long as they can until they can't cope with conditions or a better plant can go there. I've very recently discovered that in a neighbouring location, also originally cursed with thin soil, the thicket of small Bir hes that exists on it has begun to transform it. The new soil there is perfect. I'm now 'copying' several small Birch thickets (8-10 inches between seedlings) into the garden as a way to mass produce coppicing material to stack and rot. I get the seedlings from roadsides, where they eventually get killed by traffic, salt, flails, weedkiller. I transplant them here, will let them grow to about 8-9 ft, thin them out a little, coppice the rest for firewood, and under plant with Blueberries. I'm only just about to add animals to the mix. Not chickens, but ducks. I have a serious slug and snail problem here. I never see a strawberry, so I have 6 Indian Runner duck eggs in an incubator to ensure these pests are kept under control. I have no doubt I will have to watch them around my plants. Chickens will come later, and I'm hoping quail before that. There's an old well that's going to be converted into a fish 'tank' for carp. That's a project waiting while other projects are being done. But as the lad says, plant everything up. No bare soil. If you don't put something there yourself, Nature will, and it's not always the most welcome gift (like thistles). I never cut grass. I won't have a mower. Instead, when I want to plant something, I'll pull out the grass, plant, water and mulch as generously as I can. Hope some of this is helpful to a fellow hillside gardener. 😊

WOW what an amazing comment and response!!!!

@@Debbie-henri Wow, yes, incredible response, thanks! I am going to have to go through carefully and get the main takeaways, you are a good 15 years ahead of me. Some of the things you describe I have gradually been figuring out myself, like constantly collecting organic material, lol. We actually had an existing traditional orchard on that slope (which is way too steep for swales, btw) and the original owner had created some kind of slight terraces, which is something. So I have left all those fruit trees in, even though they aren't producing brilliantly, and have been piling up organic material at the edges of the terraces (and in other areas where there are no terraces) to slow the run-off. This is stuff I find when I am out and about (my wife LOVES me throwing old logs in the car, lol) and there is a lot of material from pruning the trees. But I'll never collect enough to make an impact in the short-term so just by leaving "weeds" to grow and fill in the spaces between trees (where the neighbours would neatly mow everything and destroy any successional growth that might happen), I feel that roots in the ground and the sheer increased quantity of "solar power" and material that I can chop and drop is already helping retain water better, and my site is visibly greener than my neighbours'. It's just the productivity that is still underwhelming. Entire fruit crops just fail if we don't have decent rain in winter/spring, that kind of thing, so it's a struggle but I'm in it for the long term.

Yes, building the soil takes time. I built my raised beds 2020. Planted seed 2023 a yield (minuscule) of egg plants and cherry toms. This year less as I started late having been abroad. I’ve learnt so much from vlogs such as these am currently using freely available cow manure to condition the soil further. I hope 2025 will see some abundance. It’s a learning curve that’s for sure but as enjoyable as it is frustrating in equal part . Good luck!

Awww ❤️

Is there any way to plant some trees, then plant some food gardens strategically placed beneath some of the trees to block out some of the harshest midday sun? I haven’t tried it myself, but wonder something like that could work almost like a natural shade cloth for part of the day. Just brainstorming 😊 good luck with your gardening!

In the Carolinas, we used River Birch trees as dappled shade for the garden. Worked well.

⁠@@Emiliapocalypseyou can shadecloth all you want, but once the temps pass about 95F, ain’t nothing gonna grow, really. And it’s hitting that in the shade down here since late May.

@@wmpx34 yeah I see how that might fry everything to a crisp.

Want some of the slugs from my area? They eat EVERYTHING that's green and sprouts are their absolute favorite.

@@BB-mt5sb My point was not that I don't have anything eating the crops I hope to harvest for myself. My point is that wither something is a "pest" is a matter of perspective. Trying to kill off everything that eats what we claim is "mine! mine! all mine!" is a poor way to exist.

The damage from exotics that don't have any predators can reck have on an ecosystem. Examples: southeast, kudzu, my backyard, field bind weed,aka morning glory. If you don't try to eradicate these, they will kill everything they can, making your system a monoculture

From SVB to birds and deer... we get very little from our garden. It's maddening!

It's truly a lesson in "if you don't plant something, nature WILL". It's so important to quickly establish what you want in a space, before nature throws some nasty invasives in there!

Much love! Word of mouth spread is so important for growing the channel, so I very much appreciate it!

So awesome 💖

I have a back yard garden. I had to put a chicken wire fence all the way areouind and on top of it, which unfortunately keeps the birds out, but if it wasn't there, the squirrels would eat everything.

❤️

Have fun!

CO2 isn't a villain, it's a critical gas that nature absolutely depends on. What matters is scale. Oxygen is critical for humans for example, but if we have too much we die, or set fire to the hydrogen in the air, and oxidize everything ajd destroy all life on earth. Scale matters. Humans right now are doing the latter. It just doesn't mean CO2 is the bad guy. It means we need to maintain a balance. This balance doesn't resemble releasing billions of years of stored fossilized energy in 2 decades.

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you. Make sure to check out the essentials playlist first. Sometimes youtube suggests videos that "catch on" via the algorithm, but they aren't always the better videos. I try to put my main topic videos in the essentials playlist, so people can have a good primer on things we stand for here, and how I manage the property. I hope you enjoy. We have a lovely community in the comment section. It's truly a badge of honor of mine, that I attract such amazingly knowledgeable gardeners and scientists here. So many wonderful people are found in the comments.

There isnt a single regenerative system on the plant that has no animals. Bang on.

For sure, Corn is not evil. It's the SYSTEMS that humans run it in, that is. Corn is just another plant. Love John Kempf, and you can probably tell that he's a huge source of input for me. I've been listening to him for years and years.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy I'm a huge fan too, considered investing in AEA's recent opportunity but ultimately didn't. John's information and the science behind it is incredible, when I found him 3-5 years ago or so I immediately searched for every video he had out and have been trying to absorb as much from him as I can

Yeah, I should have been more clear, and great catch. Trampling many plants actually is just similar to chopping and dropping them. Crimping. The only thing I really care about stepping on a tiny saplings that are a year old.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy shouldn't we care about compacting the soil?

If the soil is left with roots and mycelium growing, it's impossible for a human to compact it. It's only depleted soils that cannot support human weight, even a large human. Dr Paul Stamets has spoken about this exact topic if you wanted a deeper dive from a global expert.

@@y0nd3r I don’t really know any of the science myself, I only know what I’ve observed; I live in the 2nd driest state in the US, in the driest county in the state, smack in the middle of a semi arid desert in the open valley of an ancient lake bed where the soil is nothing but compacted clay. The soil in my yard has only been “rehabbed” for less than 10 years, and definitely not aggressively because I don’t know what I’m doing lol. But I can trample my plants pretty good, on occasion, and they bounce right back. I don’t know of I technically should worry about things like human compaction or not, but I don’t and everything seems fine as far as I can tell.

Chopping and dropping weeds during growing season is still great. It mimics herbivore grazing. New things will regrow in the space. You can also do semi cutting, where you chop and drop some but leave some up to regrow, and go on a cycle.

It depends on what shows up. I use plants for a future. (Google it). I combine that with plant ID asps, ajd learn what grows here, the benefits, and if it's local or invasive.

I don't have any problem with grafting. I think its a great way to ensure a healthy tree (the rootstock) but yet getting a good tasty yield (the graft).

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy Thank you!

They were uploading automatically. I just checked and for some reason it stopped 6 months ago. I'm not sure what's going on with rumble. It's possibly my account wasn't conspiracy theory enough for rumble LOL. It's impossible to keep things up on all platforms, I do my best to hit as many of them as I can though, but in terms of return on time spent, keeping rumble updated is just not really worth my time to be 100% honest. I'm stretched thin as it is.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy I totally understand. Thanks for responding to my post. Have a lovely weekend!

Aeration is the key. See my pond series of videos where I discuss aspects of designing ponds.

You nailed it. Rhubarb. We've had an extreme heat wave which caused them to go to seed very early this year.

As long as they don't spray, it shouldn't impact you at all. And you will absolutely benefit them. And if they do spray, you could look at putting up wind blocking hedgerows if you have the space, to try to push any windblown sprays up and over your space. Also can look into earthworks to divert any rainwater runoff from entering your land, laden with herbicides. Again, it all depends on the site, the space, and how your neighbours run their systems.

My answer to the same style of question is always the same. Food, water and habitat for all creatures. Think about what things you have on your property that can support more birds, bats, frogs, snakes (careful here if venomous snakes are in your area). For example, add bird and bat houses, add piles of sticks, add piles of rocks, add fallen logs. Add thorny plants for small birds to hide from predators, etc. Add small pocket ponds, and aerate them (using small solar fountain pumps, water wigglers, etc). Add more diversity in the herbaceous layer with planting native wildflowers. The more you can provide habitat, water and food for predators for insects, you'll see some damage on your trees but it will be manageable.

The more concerning thing isn't soil space but rather sunlight competition. If the metric you are trying to maximize is fruit tree growth, then ensure it can collect every photon that could hit it. So it just depends on how tall the other plants are around it. Small fruit trees surrounded by clover is no problem. Also, ensure no allelopathies. So nothing like garlic mustard around trees, because it suppresses growth of other plants.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy thanks for the quick reply 👍

Leaf cutter ants are so damn cool. They don't eat the leaves, they take them back to their lair and they use them to grow fungi. They make mushroom gardens. How cool is that? They are largely considered a very positive aspect of the rainforest. Though I must admit although I've never heard of them defoliating trees so much they kill them, I can see how it could be a problem establishing new trees. I'm honestly not sure what I would suggest, besides like, antlion habitat. They are just so cool, I'd have a hard time trying to eradicate such an awesome creature.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy they defoliate my mango trees over night and these are big well established trees, their colonies can cause cave ins i dug up a spot and my leg can go through that hole and it goes down about 2 metres.

The only thing you can do is to keep plants short in areas you traffic, and when it's tick season, don't go in areas where they can be. If you do have to, wear long boots, long pants, long sleeves. And check your WHOLE BODY every night. Every single crack and nook and crannie.

Take the herb Cats Claw. It will get rid of the bacteria. I had Lyme for years and cured it by taking the tincture.

Check out my guilds guide video for a comprehensive answer to that question.

I remember John Kempf has this on one of his podcasts, and I found it absolutely fascinating. (And a bit creepy if you think about it too). I wonder if Dr White was the guest.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy I love listening to Johns podcasts also . His book quality agriculture is one of my favourites

Cats

I dont have any. Maybe it's the minks and foxes and owls etc... balance.

A healthy snake population

Great point! Small exceptions to every rule :)

Counterargument: Hydrothermal vents are created by plate tectonics, which is driven largely by shifting gravitational stresses applied by the sun (and moon). Therefore, it’s unlikely that such vents could form at all without the sun.

haha I was thinking that myself when I first read the comment. Everything essentially comes back to the sun, or on a bigger picture the super massive black hole at the center of the milky way.

The internet is at your fingertips, FIGURE IT OUT YOURSELF 🐑

@@AwakeningWARRlOR im asking his personal opinion.

Totally not needed. It only causes a temporary swell in bacterial colonies. It's much better to maintain a longer term focus, and avoid silly gimmicky one-time temporary "garden tricks" like this.

By planting as many plants as you can. Not maximize photosynthesis per plant, but rather maximize photosynthesis per square foot area. If soils are depleted, and you don't have healthy soil yet, then you are in stage 1 of the ecological transition, and you need to plant pioneer species that thrive in that environment. Lots of nitrogen fixers, and deep taprooted plants (many are typically known as "weeds"). Chop and drop those constantly. For a great video on REALLY depleted soils and how this can work, check out the Greening the Desert projects by Geoff Lawton.

❤ Geoff Lawton! ❤

Wait what? You may have crawled down too far a conspiracy rabbit hole, friend.

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy Not a conspiracy my friend....I grew up in Edmonton and an old slogan back in the day was Welcome to Sunny Alberta and over 95% of our weather came from the mountains out west with some from north and south and rarely did we get any weather from the east....today we get 30% of the weather from the East and mostly Northwest and mostly whiteout hazy cloudy days. You might want to look into HAARP...here is an old CBC video when they actually did investigative journalism. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLVldMelmdTMc58.html

@user Yeah, man... climate change effects weather, but I wouldn't be bothering with "weather manipulation". Conspiracy.

@@kaleyjanenigh Climate change as they are calling it is MAN MADE weather! Would it hurt you to do some actual due diligence (aka investigation) before offering your uneducated biased opinion? For you to bring up conspiracy tells me everything I need to know about your character. Why don't you spend 5 minutes reading the definition of conspiracy so you learn something today. SMH at the level of stupid in this world today. It would probably surprise you to learn of weather patents dating back to the early 1900's and the fact that weather warfare was used during the Vietnam war to extend the monsoon season for months. How about you spend less time watching TV (aka Tell-Lie-Vision) and more time outside in nature......and yes those lines in the skies are chemtrails to dim the sun and to poison earth and all inhabitants. Don't believe me though, DO YOUR OWN DILIGENCE!

It didn’t build itself, he put a ton of work into it!

I am giving my thieving squirrels a garden

It would be easy for you too,if a food forest was your priority.

It wasn't at first! It took me 5 years or more to change my mindset. However, I can 100% guarantee you that if I had my old property (a 40 foot by 90 foot lot), that even in a tiny 40x10 foot garden, I'd plant plenty of things for nature and share my land as much as I could. We all have to do our part. I believe that in my core.

My city lot is packed with fruit trees and berry bushes, herbs and medicinals, a beautiful kitchen garden. I am attempting to supply what I can for myself. Because of all I learned from you I feel a little better about my families future. My grand children have fresh fruit and help me in my garden, learning to grow.

I go into the details more in my "how I solved my pest problems". What matters is the timing on when things happen. If you have balance already established, then your predators and pests hatch at the same time in the spring and the predators interrupt the pupae/larval stage of the pests. However, if you don't have habitat for the predators established, then what happens is the pests pupate and start eating the crops, and swell in numbers unchecked. Predators may find them, but only after they've already done their damage. Predator populations then swell tremendously (but again, damage is done), then crash when they eradicate the pest and their food runs out. When you have balance established, you have low levels of pests and predators that are in balance. When you don't have balance established, you get BUST/BOOM cycles of both pests and predators, which is really bad for your plants (complete defoliation). I hope that helps answer it a bit clearer. Unfortunately, I can't go into that level of detail on each individual micro-topic I bring up, every time I bring it up, or my videos get very long, very tangential, and very repetitive. So I don't always get to expand every topic to the level that someone may want in every video. It's for that reason that I try to have "topic" videos where people can dig a bit deeper on each topic. I hope this helps.

Not sure the point you think you are making

@@CanadianPermacultureLegacy : permaculture has low food yield per area, and does not feed 8 billion people. it's fine that you want to look at a low maintenance and low food production greenery, but then your golden principles dont compare to the anount of food grown on a farm conventionally, that you diss. so you're capturing maximum sun energy, to produce less food. but it looks nice, and you can spin some stories.

@Chris WHY are you mad, bro? Just scroll on by if permaculture isn't your thing. So strange.

@@kaleyjanenigh : why is it strange to test things/ideas being promoted as "golden rules" for gardening? they should stand questioning, if they're any good. or is make believe good enough nowadays? he felt free to say negative things about commercial orchards and growing veggies in rows.

I completely disagree. My next video will explain it detail why. This line of thinking is incredibly short sighted in both scale and temporally as well. It also ignores all the externalities that we push onto our future.