I'm restoring a drill press inherited from my late father and finding suitable YT videos to manage the different components has been a life saver. I didn't even know the shell had a threaded hood! Looking at some differences - mine has an insert not machined jaw guides and my jaws have at the top 1/3 serrations. It's likely a cheap copy :P. Thanks Jon.

I’ve had mine for 50 years it’s perfect still now that is money well spent

excellent...and thank you

I think I'll 3d print a couple of parts like you have made to simplify the process - like the bearing guide.

The reason why tapers are longer than they should be, at least most often, is the fact that someone at some point ground the taper in as to repair some dings or dents that were imparted to the surface, most likely when the arbor was dropped during assembly or maintenance... I like your use of stones... Those hard stones are to me known as wood chisel honing stones, tho, that is only because that was the first instance where i came across the ground hard stones for tooling... They really do some amazing work in careful hands... And you didn`t abuse them on that properly raised burr, but went for the coarse stone instead to begin on it... Nice! Speaking of lubrication, i tend to use spindle bearing grease for chucks, non channeling spindle grease that is... Tho, every grease channels a bit in some scenarios... If you use any lube on the chucks, you have to open them up at least around every 5 years and service the lubricant all over... Shit can get contaminated, absorb moisture, collect micro chips and so on... That`s why no lubricant is specifically stated by the book... I would not run any chuck dry, but yeah, if you want it to last, you have to take period care of it... The 5 years i stated is only due to that being the recommended service interval for my specific spindle grease... NSK states that bearing grease can far surpass it`s recommended lifetime and can be safe to remain in use, yet they also state that it should be checked and even sent to analysis if you are using it after that long a period in a high grade, precision system... A chuck is no high precision spindle bearing, but it is an instrument of sorts and should be treated well... Just change that grease every so often... Better to prevent than to contend with issues caused by neglect... All in all, a nice job! Best regards! Steuss

Excellent video…the best I’ve seen on the Albrecht…. The reason Albrecht don’t use lubricants is because they end up looking like yours if you do… Ive never used grease on any lathe or drill chucks as it just acts like a magnet for dirt and chips, and ends up going hard like varnish and can seize the chuck…if you do want to use a lubricant, a fine oil like 3 in one is plenty good enough and makes future maintenance so much easier…

When I saw you stoning the different areas like a Surgeon I knew the action was gonna be Buttery Smooth when you got done.

hmmm, more simple then I thought. My Albrecht chuck needs service like this. Now I feel I can and will get it done. Thanks

Excellent video. I have two chucks that need service. This motivated me to proceed.

What an excellent tutorial. Really amazing camera angles and close ups. Deluxe work. Cheers

Another note... Jon is not kidding on how very little grease should be used. If you use too much grease or any amount of oil, the chuck will not tighten and hold a drill bit. It will feel like a spring when you tighten it, and not hold a drill shank. So just use barely any grease. Just a super thin amount. --Doozer

thanks for the lesson.

Everyone hates burrs, but they're rarely a problem on well-used tools. Burrs are a bigger problem on new tools, often making them feel rough or even jamming. Sometimes an old tool will grow a burr on an edge that will actually interfere, but not often because that would be a poor design. Good video, well explained!

very nice and clean Jon..well explained..

Many thanks

Lately, I bought two Albrecht-chucks from China for USD 14.99 (free shipping). One for my milling machine and the other for the drill-press. These chucks work smooth and fine - and runout ist less than 0.01mm.

I can attest to the superb quality of these chucks. Oftentimes you even get one with an integral pull stud when you buy a machining center.

Thanks Jon, an interesting series and a timely reminder that all machines require some maintenance once in a while !

Very interesting and excellent tutorial. I recently did a Jacobs Chuck that was sticking and now as good as new. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for this, gettin` me motivated to tackle a few around here.

If you have a surface grinder, what I do is grind some wrench flats on the body in the area right above the knurled hood. This allows you to grip the chuck in a vise for disassembly without the need to make a grip collar (that brass block that Jon made). For those who don't know, the steel is too hard to mill, you must use a surface grinder. --Doozer

Well done video!! Nothing more you could have added, thanks

Mr. Jon, I'll never need to do this but I enjoyed the video. Veey informative and well done.. Now the next set you have on the docket , I have one like that..just smaller I use on the wood lathe.. good stuff, makes me want to get a metal lathe and become a wanna b machinist 🤠👍

Nice overhaul instruction Jon, Well Done. The brass clamp is worth as much of the chuck.

Jacobs made a modern precision keyless chuck, I have two of them-

Those green Scotch Brites are around 600 grit and will definitely scratch a polished surface.

Informative video which for me could be applied to other tools...🖖

Great job!!

Great video!

My instructions from Albrecht specifically said to NOT lubricate the threads on the spindle. It needs to be dry for proper operation. YMMV

Amazing is that albrecht today basically has again higest precision stuff with apc.

Nice work . Very informative . Is it necessary to remove the arbor & collar to disassemble the chuck ?

It would be nice if some KZfaq presenter would do an INTEGRAL SHANK Albrecht chuck teardown and reassembly. No such video exists.

The original arbor that the chuck was mounted to was not a Bridgeport arbor. JIM🎉

Thank you for the video. I recently purchased a used 1/32-1/2 Albrecht in good condition but when I took it apart to inspect and clean it, it had NO ball bearings...all gone...and quite a bit of grease everywhere...it was really sluggish to twist. After careful cleaning, it looks to be ok, amazing that it spun rather nicely on the machined surfaces. The ball races look undamaged and so I will need to acquire 25 balls. Do you know what size those balls are? Also, there is no marking on the taper end, but the "other" chuck that sold at the same time and was stated as the same size and had a box that showed "Nr. 130 B 16". I bought a B16 shank that seems to fit but would like to verify before "pounding" it in. I will try to measure the taper with a bore gage and calculate to see if it's close. Thanks again.

stalaCtite grows from the ceiling stalaGmite grows from the ground

😊

someone had trued up the taper on the arbor while mounted in the machine... making it smaller then and go in deeper... forgetting to shorten small end of arbor..

I have had one of this. I didn't know anything about, it had I MK1 Arbor and I didn't know how tow change it. I just give it away. I am regretting now 😢😢😢😢😢

So the gripping surface of the jaw should be pointy with no flat at all? I am pulling mine apart at the moment and the first thing I noticed is that the jaws have quite some wear on the point, but I thought they might have a flat like lathe chuck jaws

Good tutorial but, I think that you did not put enough grease on the bearings.

I see many ignorant people putting a 1" step shank drill bit in these and ruining them. Also a hex shank hole saw will ruin them. These are precision tools. Not for blacksmiths or neanderthal machinists. --Doozer

thxs for sharing, say Hi to Moma Kitty...

was the jacobs taper that was too long made in china?