Very good conversation for splitting up the different uses for the different geometries

I have a handful of mauls and splitting axes. The one I was most productive with was a Gerber (Fiskars) 4lb. on a 36" handle. I have a Fiskars Iso-core 8 lb. maul which is a beast and has a hardened poll, that will split better than anything, but tires me out with its weight. I haven't used my Husqvarna much for splitting, but it seems like it would do well on all but the most difficult applications. The more I split, the more I realized how much difference technique and strategy makes when splitting. Learning how to read the wood, and taking slabs off from the outside towards the middle really helped my efficiency. Also, knowing when to cut a notch with a chainsaw and resort to wedges and a sledge hammer saved wasted energy. I always enjoy your videos.

I've took your advice and invested in the Ochsenkopf Bavarian Splitting Axe,I'm really impressed with it!.Works well as you said.Cracking video with good solid no nonsense info.

For splitting hardwood, like oak and hickory, I prefer my Gransfor Bruks splitting maul and my Tuatahi work axe. Both are impressive especially the Tuatahi.

Tomorrow I'm going to take a tour of the Adler factory. Do you have any questions you would like me to ask them?

Thanks - good stuff. My favourite for the big stuff is the Fiskas 8 lb maul - boom, blows the big tough rounds apart.

Great review I agree with many of your conclusions

I've been burning and cutting firewood commercially for over 40 years now and have used pretty much every kind of splitting maul. I can't really speak on splitting softwood as I split mostly oak and hickory. For that I find the Adler type axe to be superior. The only problem with them is I've yet to find one that is as heavy as I'd like. If they made them about a pound heavier they'd be monster splitters. When I have to split big twisted or knotty oak I find them lacking. I normally switch over to wedges or big heavyweight mauls for that. A trick a lot of people around here use to protect the handles from overstrikes is to wrap a few layers of duct tape around the handle, then wrap that with electric fence wire and cover that with more duct tape. Granted it's an ugly solution but it works really well on splitting mauls. Personally I don't worry about overstrikes but I keep a wrapped handle maul around for my less experienced helpers to use.

I’ve just managed to get an Adler axe from eBay solely on your recommendation. Really looking forward to doing some work with it Ben.

Great presentation!

Great video summary!

Hello Ben. The 'German Maul' with the beard! I have had one of these since the 1980's when I had to split many rounds of Elm up in Yorkshire (up to 32" diameter). I have also had one of those 'Adler Pattern' Axes for about 10 years here in Canada, it is much lighter, but I like it, I rounded off the edges on it and that seems a slight improvement. I have a 5lb Norlund Splitting (sometimes called Rafting Pattern) axe that I recently acquired, the shaft is old and dry so O may need to replace it before frenzied beating of wood. If course wood splitting tools are somewhat dictated by the wood you have access to. Up to three years ago I only split and burned Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir (usually large dry rounds). Up to current date I process Spruce, various types of Birch, Aspen, Canadian Balsam (Noble Fir)? and small diameter Vine Maple (very hard, almost like Beech). Most of the latter species are no more than 18" diameter even though many of my trees are well over 120 feet high. Much of what I am bucking and splitting at the moment is one foot diameter so I prefer using a stubby old double bit axe (where I have more blade width, less weight). The Husqvarna Axe you have seems nice, but I typically keep away from plastic/fibre-glass handles because of the vibes and also cannot customize the handles. To be honest I am not totally convinced that Hickory is the best shafting material for axes either as I have a pile of shafts that have split longitudinally over time. What is your experience of the Husqvarna 'diamond profile' maul, I have often though one might be worth getting my hands on. Best wishes Ben, WS.

Great reviews on splitting axes, I have fiskers x27 super splitting axe, fiskers isocore 8 lb splitting maul, husquavarna 2800 splitting axe,all great splitting tools, the secret to splitting rounds,is to put them into a truck tyre, with the inside walls removed, stack them 3 tyre high,and it will save your back,no end, you can fill your split logs into whatever way you wish, less handling involved,👍🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪

And like you I have any ochsenkopf big Splitting maul and I love it By far one of my favorite splitters

Funfact, even the husquarna is a german axe. It's originally from Gardena which was bought by husquarna. Still made in Germany.

My ancient K. Werk maul looks like the German one you have, except for the mushrooming. Mine was likely 6# originally but is a bit less now from sharpening and some chunks broken off the mushroom. I wear safety glasses 🙂 . I should probably take the angle grinder to the poll but knowing my forbears made it the way it is from thousands of wedge strikes . . .

Great information Ben, thanks for sharing. I was thinking of getting a new axe to go along with my husky 2.4 70cm axe (which I also love!) for splitting larger half dried rounds. I see there is a lot of cheap copies of that Adler axe. Maybe I’ll try one of those. Or would you still grab the classic heavy maul?

What do you think about a Binkelhacke,a 450 mm and 1300 g splitting hatchet, i think i will get one in a few weeks. I will buy one since: My problem was that i split some Spruce and Larch today (500 mm lenght, 300 mm diameter). I used an Aluminium Wedge first to make two halfes and the splitting axe to get 4 parts on a short woodblock since i have "Mini"stones as ground. The fourths are still to large so i holt them and used the splittingaxe singlehandily. It worked, but its too heavy for one hans and handle too long. I too had the issue of the "cutting part" being overweight on the splitting axe when using wedges. The edge wanted to turn downwards naturally. Not a big problem, but it gets tiring when you have to apply torsion to stop it from rotating and gliding off the wedge and hitting the floor again, instead of remaining on the wedge. Just a waste of energy lifting it a further 200 mm.

Had I not been handed down my german “with wedges” style splitting axe I probably would’ve been leery of them as well. I’ve always seen them in big box stores with goofy hi-vis rubberized handles. I made one modification to mine that might make yours even more effective. I rounded off the wedges, slightly, so in theory it should release much easier in the unlikely occurrence you get it stuck. One thing I would’ve liked to see is the adler on the big beech rounds. Actually try to get it stuck or get defeated by a gnarly piece. Maybe you could send me a short vid later or something. Can you imagine one with a hardened sledge-like pole? It would be god tier. I think you’ve done it my boy. Most comprehensive and legitimately interesting splitting axe video I’ve watched (I’ve watched damn near all of them). Easy to understand and properly demonstrates the capabilities of readily available models. Seriously, great job Ben :)

Great review I agree with many of your conclusions you may have a better outlook on some if you start splitting on the edge of your round hitting in the middle accomplishes nothing hit on the edge and get a better Overall review

I guess the more recent developments in plastic composite handles have resulted in a better user experience than the earlier renditions. How much do those Husqvarna composite splitting axes cost?

What is the brand and model of the German maul you like in this video? It looks like an Ochsenkopf / Stihl, but I’d like to know for sure. Love the videos by the way!

Great information Ben

Ben, that was a really helpful video, thanks. Would be interesting to hear your thoughts on the Helko Werk Vario axe. Have you used one of those? thanks Phil, Snowdonia.

great video. what model husqvarna is that? the A2400 or the S2800

A bit late to this but I've only lately found your channel and subscribed. A bit boutique but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the Gransfors splitting axe. It has the concave cheek shape that seems to help maintain the split and reduce sticking. Needless to say I have one and think it's a good tool, probably one of the best they make just now. Have you have the chance to use one?

Ben is there anyway you put put individual links to the axes and mauls please in the description

Is that husquvarna the splitting model or the universal model?

Did you make any change to the favorite husqvarna after purchase, like angle of grind

I'd like to know what the German style bearded maul brand name is ifn anyone knows off hand thanks

Any downside to the Steel collar of some Splitting axes? Balance issues? As far as i know only Bison and Ochsenkopf make them with Collars, kmow any else? Thank you.

Дякую👍

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Good show I wish they would cross a ox splitting axe with a adler

Do have any experience with Prandi axes? Do you think the little beard on the German-style maul is meant to maneuver the wood or to help with splitting?

I'll stick with the good ole Vulcan.. I don't mess with splitting mauls

Hardened pole or not, you can certainly bang plastic felling wedges with an axe with little to no damage to the axe. Over time, with heavy use, the head may come loose, but the pole takes no damage that I can see. Although my wedges are plastic not aluminum, and I’m just doing mild farm work, not heavy professional work. Now metal splitting wedges, No.

The Adler Design is the most effective, but i hate how it looks, so unästethic.

You haven't included the best splitting axe...Fiskars 27, long handle. Nothing I've found touches it and I split lots of wood.