Dude! 60 comments! Over a thousand subscribers! 2K views! You're on your way! Hope you had a good time with your friends.

Steve, I always put the cam in before the crank. I've noticed that no one else does that. That's the way I was taught. You're doing a great job.

Cool good information buddy didn’t know about the rear seal and being line bored You are very good at giving out needed information that most people don’t know

I have 400 board 40 over absolute Beast. Absolutely love it

Had a couple 400's way back, in a '69 Nova, went pretty good for a mostly stock engine. Never knew you could get by without the steam holes. Like your channel, always good content

Goog lord Tackett! I get anxiety when my garage gets backed up like that too. Keep up the good work!

You're definitely showing good technique on putting that engine together.Can't waiting to hear it almost stand

Very nice build

Don’t worry about the condition of the shop as long as you can find what you need. A clean shop is a sign of a sick mind.

Should be a sweet running sbc

Love this 😎💪🏽

Subscribed bro! Keep up the good work. It's Dave Sanders. You know me!

I’m gonna guess 520 crank easy. Nice set up. Your videos keep me motivated on my project. Great video man!

Thanks!

Wow Steve over 1k views in 24hrs great job.

Looks good Steve!, I have a 406 in my 66 Chevelle and that thing always runs hot. It has Edlebrock heads and was assembled by a "professional" engine builder. We have tried different radiator, fans, shroud and it just gets hot driving it on the street. It made 540 hp on their dyno. We are thinking the head gaskets are wrong and going to take it out to see what is going on. A few guys bring up the steam holes so I was surprised you never had a problem like that. It might be just to much for a street car but is a fun drag car! Now that they closed Bandimere speedway here in Denver it might be time for more of a street motor.

Roller cam upgrades are pricey, but worth it. You will get 400 hp or so. Depends on cam specks and intake.... carb? 👍

Mix that corn with the potatoes lol!

Very cool 🤙 I'm building a 406 for my turbo tpi suburban

I love your engine building videos but why do you use a nylon coupler on the oil pump? Doesn't that create a week link. Just wondering brother.😇

My dogs are the same way 😂

oil pump 101 from my exp Melling avail in stock replace// M Select // Shark tooth //CNC stock is a very basic unit light duty M Select precision machined ,phos coated ,,H/duty shaft Shark tooth [same as above but with xtras ] , smoother oil pumping ,, optional bolt on pick up ,pickups available for different depths . 3x different volumes 3x different pressures CNC is a premium pump "" custom "" almost does not suit every oil pan NB if running larger than stock crank clearances 10%+ volume is ideal for N/A engine

I think its going to make around 520 hp 530 torque it will be a decent street engine im building pretty much the same set up just a little more camshaft and trùe 11 to 1 comprression and different heads it will make right at 600 hp. Check out eric wingardner 406 dyno mule videos

What is your cam lift at .050 and lift with 1.5 rocker ?? R 370 part no cannot find . Inlet manifold ? CARB type and size ?

Just wondering does a really good paint job make the motor run or even last longer ( NO!!!!). Maybe it helps with the horsepower maybe not ???? I hate to paint too !!

Some tips and concerns, you didn't set the thrust or even check it which is a concern. A tip is to lube your cam bearings before the crank goes in so the rear bearing gets lubed. Because by the time the cam passes through the first four bearings the lube gets scraped off. Also if you install the cam first before the crank you can get your other hand in there to help guide the cam through, easier in your thumbs. Not sure what you were talking about the rings with a notch or something like that?🤷 The pistons that the wrist pin goes through the bottom ring for a 6" rod uses a ring spacer then regular oil rigs are installed afterwards. I have used that type of piston many, many times without fail, they work very well. They also help lighten the rotating assembly as well as improving the rod ratio. The downfall of using a 6" rod in a sbc 400 is if you have more than .33" of lobe lift your rods might interfere with the cam. This can also happen with 5.7" rods as well, that is why the General used shorter rods in a sbc 400, for the cam clearance. The more the rod is on an angle the more cam clearance there is. This is the reason they make reduced base circle cams. If you have more than.500" of lift you might run into some interference? Keep an eye in that, it's a great way to ruin a nice roller cam if you don't.😎👍

I tried looking up the cam, and I didn't hear in the video....what are the cam specs?

Good deal! I dig the engine building parts. I looked up your motor # on lime book it states T= Towanda, New York 0904= September 4 CSM= 74-75 Chevelle

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Is 0.0005 good? don't tell tony...😂

It looks like you have honestly worked that way for a while, be honest . Some people just work that way, it didnt get that way over night, sounds like you are confused about what to do !

Dude, seriously there is no reason to go with flat tappet anymore. unless you feel like hedging a $400 bet on a perfect startup and break-in.

They make stroker clearance rods for the 400 cu.in. engines... Stock 400 rods are no good to use! Too short of rod and has bad rod ratio. Weak! Too much side load on rod bearings and pistons. Long rod slows down piston speed and should make more power and torque...