That’s how we do it, too.

agreed

I think that got switched up a bit? When #6 is in overlap, you can’t set the intake or exhaust for #6, but instead you can set it for #1? So I think the correct statement would be “When #6 is in overlap, you can set intake for 1, 2 and 4 and exhaust for 1, 3 and 5. When #1 is in overlap, you can set intake for 3, 5 and 6 and exhaust for 2, 4 and 6”. It’s a bit confusing to say the least. To double check, ensure the valves you are attempting to adjust at each overlap are truly loose before you begin the adjustment. I think what we have here is correct.

i think there is a wright up by Moparman1973 on the internet

@@gpwrinkled You are correct, I fat fingered it after an edit. I fixed it by just swapping #1 and #6. It is pretty obvious on the engine, there is no valve clearance on a cylinder in overlap, and the companion cylinder will be ready to adjust on both intake and exhaust. You don't have to bar the engine over to adjust each cylinder like in the 'best method' shown in the video. You also don't need a splined socket for 3rd Gen Rams, at least not the ones I touched. Just a 24mm socket.

I'm so sorry you had to go through that. I hope you are in air-conditioning or something😂

Never again lol

The old ‘rule of 7’s’ 👍🇦🇺

@@Fun-under-the-hood it all comes down to which one you learned first 👌

Thats a stainless diesel 2g swap high mount pipe. They have a jig when they make them, perfect fitment every time, def worth the extra $ just to get one from them

Yes keep turning and them watch 5s valves to adjust #2 to adjust 5 watch valves on 2

Yes as soon as it starts to open you're good to go

As far as i know they're universal , just type in alternator spline tool on ebay, i also noticed a large allen socket works also i think the one that fits is a 5/8"

Block is bottom tapped for these haisley head studs, i always just leave the washers out that go under the pedestal stud nuts, been doing it that way for 10 years now and never had any issues. Valvecovers aren't grinded at all. I recommend bottom tapping your head bolt holes with any 89-current 5.9 or 6.7, this helps decrease upper cylinder distortion and promotes a better ring seal while decreasing wear. Puredieselpower.com sells the correct bottoming tap that isn't chinese BS to make quick work of the job.

Yes sir

Thats exactly how i do all of them

@AjReda yes it does, but on a 6.7 its alot harder to access the alternator to bar the engine over, i like to do 6.7s valve half at a time, the harmonic balancer will have a TDC mark on it with a line under it, take a paint pen and highlight this tdc mark, and then get a flex head long handle 3/8" ratchet, and a 6 point 15mm socket and bar the engine over until your paint mark is at 12 o'clock and do the intakes on 1,2, and 4, and exhaust on 1,3, and 5, and then go back under the truck and rotate the engine another 360 degrees until the paint mark is at 12 o'clock again, and adjust intakes on 3, 5, 6 and exhausts on 2, 4 and 6. Sometimes this order will be 3,5, 6 and 2,4, 6 first, because you have a 50/50 shot at which position you will end up at. If the 6.7 is deleted, adjust your intakes to .010" and exhausts to .020", factory 6.7s exhausts are set at .026" due to the extra heat the emissions equipment adds.

What year second Gen? The bulbs behind the cluster are easy to change.

@@JCSDieselPerformance 3rd gen(03).bulbs were easy. odometer faded away shortly after 550,000 mark

And?