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@5:00 i think you basically have it. The battery's capacity is given in milliampere-hours; 1100mAh for your 18350 battery. Watt-hours (Wh), like you said, does give you an estimate of the runtime for a device. Voltage: is a measure of the electrical push that the battery gives to the electrons. Imagine water flowing through a hose. Volts are like the pressure of the water in the hose. Higher volts would mean higher water pressure. In this analogy, volts represent the force or pressure that drives the water through the hose. Amps, or amperes, measure the flow of electrical current. It's the quantity of electrons moving through a conductor per unit of time. In this analogy, if volts are the pressure, then amps are the "flow rate" of electricity. And depending on the driver and LED setup, volts in the Peanut driver, give each emitter around 3 volts a piece and get rid for the .7 extra volts as wasted heat. So basically each LED gets 3.7 volts. And in your Okluma, it also gets 3.7 volts to the LED; it is basically the amount of amp draw that will change the light output. For example: if you were to take your Okluma and measure the amp draw on level 1, 2 and 3, you might find you are using .012 amps on moonlight, .45 amps on medium, and 1.1 amps on high. Power is volts multiplied by amps, so as your battery voltage goes down from 3.7 to say 3 volts, the same amount of amps won’t give you the same amount of brightness unless the volts are boosted up or if the driver pulls more amps to compensate; for example, the BOSS 35 flashlight driver will do this. I hope this helps. Maybe somebody else can chime in where I made mistakes or explain it better

I finally managed to find on one the secondary! Should be arriving monday, can't wait!

i love my okluma dc0, great vid

I watched the ENTIRE video. Will I ever get these 36 minutes back?😴🤣🙌🏼💜

Glad ya came back around on the DC0. Clip is fine but the knurling makes it annoying if you have a thick hem on your jeans. I agree about the moonlight being too dim. I think the purpose is for up close illumination but still. The knurling is just such a big factor for me and the fact it’s durable as hell. I’ve dropped mine a ton and Jeff said it’s essentially water proof. Battery lasts forever if you only ever use the medium and high only on occasion. Enjoy dude!

DC0s are great lights, I had a copper one for quite a while. The clip on them is pretty bad, Brat Guy Enterprises makes a clip that is a bit less grabby for them for a reasonable price. Ultimately I just kind of find DC0s boring lol, and I like to have a bit more flexibility in programming than the DC0 offers. People have been modding them with Reylight Pineapple reflectors and lenses, which is cool.

I can explain a bit about the units you see on those batteries, but I'm not an expert, so treat this accordingly. • 3A is 3 Amps. That's the maximum amount of current the battery can safely deliver at any given point in time. If you try to pull more than that you'll presumably damage the battery. • 1100 mAh is 1.1 Amp hours, is the amount of electric charge the battery can hold. This means it can deliver 1.1 Amps of current for 1 hour, 2.2 Amps for half an hour, etc. Charge by itself is not energy, as we'll see. You get more amp hours by wiring cells in parallel, or by making the cells larger. A cylindrical cell is actually a rolled up cell that started out as two plates separated by a thin layer. The longer and fatter the cylinder, the more surface area that cell has, so the more amp hours it can store. • 3.7 volts is the electromotive force the battery can fight against. 1 volt means being able to push 1 Amp of current across a 1 ohm resistance. In reality the voltage of these batteries varies from 4.2 when freshly charged to 3.6 when drained. Voltage will also dip when you draw high currents. A given chemistry has a given voltage. You get more volts by stacking cells in series. That's why alkaline battery flashlights used to have 2 cells: 1.5 volts * 2 = 3 volts, which was enough to drive a bulb, and why 9 volt batteries were used (1.5 volts * 6 cells = 9 volts). • 4.1 Wh is 4.1 watt hours, which is the amount of energy the battery can store, which can be calculated by multiplying amp hours by volts: 1.100 Amp hours * 3.7 volts = 4.07 Watt hours. In the old days flashlights used incandescent bulbs that behaved very much like a resistor. There was no driver. Just batteries wired through a mechanical switch to the bulb. Batteries would be stacked in series to get enough voltage for the bulb. As the battery voltage dropped, the bulb would get dimmer. LEDs aren't so simple. They need about 3.4 volts, but they're tricky to drive, so they use sophisticated integrated circuits rather than directly wiring the batteries to the LEDs. Flashlights that support both single cell 1.2 volt NiMH and 3.7 volt lithium ion batteries use boost converters to get voltage high enough to drive the LED. See flashlightwiki.com/Driver and budgetlightforum.com/t/understanding-the-difference-between-linear-buck-boost-and-direct-drive-drivers/28594 for an introduction to the different types of drivers and their pros and cons. So to get back to the question of which number on the battery indicates battery life, the simple answer is watt-hours (Wh). But if the flashlight driver delivers way more lumens on lithium-ion than on NiMH batteries, then of course it'll consume energy more quickly, and more watts means fewer hours.

I knew you’d love it haha.

I’m guessing is Okluma as in some combination of Oklahoma (where is Jeff is from, and where the original shop was located) and lumens or something along those lines.

Is this a forward click or reverse? Great video by the way 👍🏻

How do you get micro in that color ? Is it a new finish

450$ flashlight and they are sold out the reylight pineapple is 14500 super thin 70$ small batch everyday carry I use the olight warrior nano

It's definitely a different mindset when spending thousands on a custom. I'm fine with midtech. That's as far as I want or need to go.