Hi That't ok. Thanks for watching. Hope to do more like this soon.

Hi Glyn, Thanks for watching and for your feedback...Regards Steve

Atticus Draco

Hi Glen, Thanks. I think one of the greatest advantages is for anyone just starting out. One can concentrate more on the actual lathe and machining in general. I know when I first started to learn machining, the massive amount of information at first was overwhelming, because we had to grind our own tools. I tend to use insert tooling all the time now, not only for the low cost, but because it speeds everything up drastically. Also it saves on grinding wheels and the noise and dust they produce.

Hi Thanks, I hope to do some more videos for those just getting into the lathe work and the best low cost tools one can buy. Plus what they can be used for. Regards Steve

Hi Jez, Thanks for your feedback....I hope you get on well and stick with it. Regards Steve

Hi Mark Thanks, I hope to show more videos like this soon....Regards Steve

Hi Alan, Thanks. I have just ordered some new lighting which should be even better, I hope. Regards Steve

Hi Eduardo, Thank you for your feedback. I hope to show a lot more soon. I remember when I first started machining the amount of information I had to learn at first was a bit overwhelming, plus sometimes people were reluctant to let others know their skills....My Regards Steve

Mr Steve Jordan that is one point, another is that most of the people that share information on youtube uses big machines and the mini lathe has its particularities that not accept the usual aproach. Thanks for you answer.

I have milled them down before. They are hard but can be machined.

Hi Mike, Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. Best Regards, Steve

Hi Karel. Those cobalt drills are excellent. I have several of those. They will actually drill harder materials that standard hss wont

actually the burrs is not a bad indicator, it means they're truly new and not used

Part of the problem I see with people who don't think that HHS is any good is the lack of knowledge of speeds and feeds as well as tool geometry. I bet if those people had the knowledge, they would be able to get as good of cut as carbide. Now, the biggest advantage of inserts is that you don't need a separate machine to sharpen the tooling but it is necessary to sharpen your drills.

Hi no they are just for turning and boring tools. You have to get a threading tool and screw cutting inserts to cut threads. The 070204 insert tools are excellent. I use them mostly. Regards Steve

@@SteveJordan Too late. I love your videos so much I've already ordered DCMT 070204 tools & inserts. It's okay if they won't thread. I've got some tools already that'll do it. They're just so pointy it looked like they would. It's just as well. I really like your videos & think your Asian mini-lathe upgrades are BRILLIANT. There's not many people that would put that much thought or time into the upgrades that you have. I even commented to another youtuber who was suggesting lathe upgrades & he had a carriage lock that used a block pulled up along the center of the casting, like your whole follower, and I said "No, no, no! You've got to check out (yours)!" Keep up the good work & keep posting. You've got fans on the other side of the pond!

Hi This is a really excellent one, high quality and grips perfectly plus it holds up to 16mm drill size. 1/32-5/8 Inch 3JT Keyless Drill Chuck -- goo.gl/EJxb9J

I just use new car engine oil. I found it works as good as anything.

Hi Guy...Thanks...I only take 015"- .020" inch cuts that is .030"-.040"overall. Taking deeper cuts only wears the inserts quickly and can cause other problems, as I don't have a continuous coolant flow. Plus it also puts unnecessary force on the tooling, components and lathe. I never listen to those that, boast of large deep cuts as it is counter productive on the model engineer's lathes without that proper coolant flow. Regards Steve

Hi Paul, I generally cut mild steel bar into lengths using an angle grinder on a cut-off stand if its larger than 20mm in diameter. Plus I cut steel components off in the bench vice with a hacksaw. I only part off large diameter bar using the Myford with the tool upside down on the rear tool-post. I find that parting-off can put a lot of strain on small lathes and unnecessary bother with tooling etc. Plus a bit of hack-sawing is good for my upper body exercise to keep osteoarthritis in check. Regards Steve

Steve Jordan Thanks for the info. As you say, it’s probably asking to much for a small lathe. I’ll be using your cut off method in the future. Many thanks, Paul.

Thanks. I use insert tools mainly because it is so easy to change an insert when it is worn, keeping the lathe set as it is. It saves having to reset it after regrinding a tool. It just speeds everything up. Plus the inserts tend to last longer than HSS.

With all lathes you make cuts the lathe can handle. Smaller and less power you make lighter cuts and more of them. Just cut what your lathe can handle. Dale Canada

You will struggle to find a 2mm diameter drill that will cut a 100mm long hole. If you are careful you can drill the 2mm hole from the other end, hence only needing to drill about 25-35mm or so. Your description of the "cone" inside has conflicting distances. First you say 60mm to 70mm (a taper of 10mm length), then you say a cone from 65mm to 75mm (also a cone of 10mm length). For the taper, first thing is to work out the angle needed, so if it's from 2mm to 6mm over 10mm, that's 11.3 degrees either side or 22.6 degrees included angle. Find online taper calculator to confirm this! Then you'll have to find some kind of tapered reamer, or custom-grind one. You might be able to start with a small step drill and grind that down. You can also create reamers and special boring bars by grinding down hand threading taps. I'd first start by looking a "Tapered Bodyshell Reamers" that are used in Radio Control hobbies. They are usually 0mm to 15mm over about 40-50mm, which might be close enough to get started, but note these only have one flute and are not going to cut well in aluminium but you could force it in. To finalise the size/angle/diameter, grind it while spinning it with a drill or in the lathe. Then create cutting edges with a dremel and a cutting disk. Finally, to bore your aluminium, drill the 6mm, then 5.5mm then 5.0mm, then 4.5mm etc to create a stepped hole. Then finish the surface of the cone with the reamer. This will be much easier that boring the cone in one pass. Final hint - make the part much longer than needed so you can measure and cut it to length after the hole is drilled.

I have found the 10mm set and have asked the seller if they do this set in 8mm. I will include the link if they have them later. Regards Steve

Many thanks Steve, my fingers are crossed that they do.

Hi Richard that doesn't sound good. It sounds like a faulty motor. I have had mine for eight years and even under excess load it has never done this. If you got the lathe new you should ask for a replacement machine or motor. If you are new to machining I would advise not to use anything other than the proper tools, not that this would have caused the motor fault. You will only have bad experiences if you use things other than proper lathe tools. It is worth the wait to start with the insert tooling first. You can obviously grind your own HSS tooling, but so many people get put off lathe work when things go wrong. At least with insert tooling it cancels out any tool grinding cutting angle error and you have the advantage of concentrating on setting the lathe etc right first. If you are in the UK you can get new motors from Amadeal UK if you have the same Mini Lathe as mine. Regards Steve

Thanks Steve. I am I'm the UK (North Oxfordshire). What a coincidence, I had already bookmarked Amadeal but I couldn't find a 550W motor on there. However, it occurred to me (after watching some other you tubers) that the smoke might be the belt degrading, I'll take it apart and check it.

Hello again, I dismantled the motor as I found a load of black plastic bits on the shelf under it. I checked some other pages and found that it is simply a case of replacing the insulation with some polyurethane varnish baked into the coils. So that's what I've done I'll let you know the results. Oh, the supplier in Germany have offered to contribute to the cost of local repair.

Hi I got these from Chinese Ebay sellers. I put the links in the video description. I didnt get any charges as these sellers have warehouses in the UK

Yes I was also looking for future purchases for tools also from Banggood & wondered if their were any charges with their tools into the UK. As I know some sellers from China don't put the cost of items so no charges are made to the customer, do you knew if this is the case with Banggood as I understand you have purchased from them before.

Hi Gillian, So far I haven't had any charges on Chinese tools either from Ebay or Banggood. I think the sellers must be paying the import charges beforehand. Regards Steve

Thanks I will have a look

I have used most of the top makes of tooling when I worked for the aerospace industry. The Chinese tools are just as good nowadays. I only buy Chinese now considering their excellent prices.

Hi No these wouldn't be any good for that. What you would need is hand graver tools like they use on watchmaker lathes. If you do a search on the net you will see pictures of them. They are easy to make up as they are just made from small HSS steel bar or even from old tools. You can a wooden handle on them. I sometimes use them on my lathe.

Hi the links for the drills are above in this comments section Regards Steve

Hi Mark, Yes the tools would be fine for your lathe. If you have 16mm tooling you can use any tool shank that is 16mm or smaller. Thanks for watching. Regards Steve.

@@SteveJordan many thanks for the help my question may have been stupid, but hey, everyone has to start somewhere. I just need to find somewhere in Australia where I can source these inserts. 🥴

It wasn't a stupid question. I get lots of people asking the same. It's good that you have some nice machines to start with. Hope you can find the tools in Australia. Regards Steve

I get all my carbide inserts from either Ebay China or Banggood. I find them to be excellent especially the blue nano type. I use them on both lathes. I don't buy any branded inserts as they are way too expensive. I use the Chinese ones on all materials as well. To get really good finishes on long work I always use power feed.

Ken Croft n

I had the mini lathe before my brother gave me the Myford. I find the mini lathe to be a good machine though and wouldn't want to be without it.

Yes, but not really. There's a video of a guy doing it on a lathe, most people don't have the skill to do it.

Metal gears are available online and at Little Machine Shop.com

They are just chosen by shank size. Whatever fits the tool holders you have on your lathe. If that's what you mean. Regards Steve

@@SteveJordan I was asking if you have recommended tool post, thanks.

Hi yes either the mini lathe Dickson type or the gib type toolpost I reviewed a while ago. Regards Steve

Hi it just means the slide movement on the top compound slide. Wound by hand or some form of mechanical drive.

@@SteveJordan thank you sir 😉

The tailstock is not always on centre on some lathes

very true i was just testing you :P

Hi Jim, Thanks. I hope to do a lot more for those that are new to engineering when I can. Regards Steve