Lol

Bruuuuuh im literally not able to solder cables together, imagine on a moving shit

Haha thanks

Wow, thank you! Now I just need to get back to that Biqu Hurakan issue...

@@NathanBuildsRobots Here's an update on my Hurakan. You know that I fried the entire control board, right? At this point I have a LOT of parts coming from BIQU. But if that wasn't enough, I have ANOTHER HURAKAN on order. Why? Because I didn't take enough pictures of the wiring on my first Hurakan before I ROASTED the wiring harness. BIQU finally agreed to send me a FREE WIRING HARNESS. I think someone from China is rowing over to the US to deliver it to me, though. I'm still debating about keeping the second Hurakan. Or sending it back. I'll be reconnecting with your Patreon page laster today. QUESTION, could I use your MODDER BOARD to replace the POW board on the Hurakan?

No, The connectors are similar but it won't wor, uless you installed a sprite upgrade kit on the hurakan (the one that comes with a new carriage and 24-pin ribbon cable).

@@NathanBuildsRobots I tried installing a Revo in my Hurakan. That’s how I fried the ribbon cable and the board. But I’m willing to try anything to have the printer deliver on the Klipper promise that came with it. Send me a link to that print head so I can buy it from your connection to Amazon.

@@corlissmedia2.0 Here is an affiliate link: amzn.to/3yhPafa If you check my "Ender 2 S1" video I go over the installation. It's worth watching because creality did some rather irresponsible wiring on the 24-pin cable. Just make sure not to plug it in wrong and you'll be fine. In the video I mention "shorted connectors" that you want to avoid plugging in to anything.

Waiting on them to send me a new one.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm waiting for Bambu to send me a refund on my X1 Carbon. I have to pay shipping to get a refund, I guess. That's going to hurt big time.

The fan duct is available on my patreon (in video description). It’s still in a beta release awaiting some feedback on tolerances before I know it’s 100% good

Yeah, its fun to work on. Creality printers are odd in that they pretty much require mods to get them printing well.

@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah, it's most of the fun though. And it gives a sense of fulfilment to finally get them where youre happy with them

Cool! Hope it works. Only issue you might have is the CR-touch cable creality supplies is super short and doesnt reach to the new location. I can send you a longer one if that ends up being an issue for you. You can actually use the old CR-touch mount location with the new fan duct if you feel like it. But for mine I definitely needed to reposition the CR-touch due to the bed leveling issues I was having. As far as I understand, the bed leveling issue doesnt affect everyone, the actual misalignment is caused by tolerance stack up from a number of parts coming together.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks. I have a couiple cables here that I can use or adapt.

40 minutes. I could go faster, but I need to calibrate input shaper and I lost the accelerometer that comes with the sonic pad

@@NathanBuildsRobots That's a great 40 minute Benchy!

It’s a good printer. Would only really consider this over the render 3 if you plan on using the sonic pad with it and doing some upgrades to it over time

Pretty sure the BL groups actually used will you be a total fanboy as a prerequisite, to be an early member, mod, or admin.

Volcano CHT with some brass spacer nuts. Works great up to very high flow rates

@Nathan Builds Robots I appreciate the reply. What is the purpose of the nuts. I guess the volcano threads are too long ? Mind sharing the volcano nozzle link with me and / or the nuts ? Keep up the awesome work. Thanks

That is very interesting. No doubt they were in a rush to get ahead of the competition (Bambu Lab) and may have cut some corners as a result. Funny enough, the P1P I bought may be the victim of the save "get it out as fast as possible" mentality. I'm curious what these new changes are. When I reached out to Creality about the issues I fixed here, they said the same thing, that they came out with a 2nd edition that fixed some of the issues from the first batch. Would be really interested to learn more about what is different on these 2nd edition printers. In any case, mine is working great now, and I've documented all the steps I've taken to get it to this point.

Wait?! That's actually a thing? Interesting that they did such changes after release. I guess the rushed production run is why the grub screw on my heater was so tight it crushed the heater tube and why my X-axis idler was bent WAY too far causing the belt to rub on the gantry. I will add to it that Creality has been very helpful with replacement parts when contacted so maybe they are aware of the issues in quality

@@SweHam Idk, most of the people I have talked to have said creality is very forthcoming about sending out replacement parts (I know of several people that fried their motherboards due to inadvertent shorts on the fan pins while installing the Modder Board, and they got replacements sent to them right away. Don't tell Creality about it tho because I'm pretty sure I've cost them a couple hundred....).

@@NathanBuildsRobots I will say that I contacted creality and was on the first 500 orders of the ender 5 s1 and creality would not send replacement parts. I could not use the mesh leveling otherwise I would get an extreme issue to the one that you showed here. I spent 15 hours troubleshooting and they refused to believe it was anything except a firmware issue that would "eventually" be fixed. Like literally my first mesh bed level scraped my nozzle so deep it left a scare in the build plate. At the end of the day since they refused to send new parts for me to try, I requested a return which they accepted. But I secretly still wish it had worked because I like the mod-ability of creality machines. Anyways just wanted to say that this person was not alone in the initial batch issue.

​@@RandomDudeWorkshop Yeah, I actually had a meeting with the Creality engineers to help them figure out what was going on in early December. But I ended up sleeping in and missed the meeting, because it was late at night due to the time-zone difference. I think they were really concerned about all the issues because that was the first time a company had reached out like that. Maybe if they were PAYING ME *errhrrm* I would have showed up and saved their bacon 3 months ago. Too many of these 3D companies expect free labor (from influencers, etc.) in exchange for printers. Not how it works. If you want top quality engineering you gotta pay for it.

It should definitely trigger 100% of the time, if its being pressed. Have you tried talking to the mfg? Also you can get replacement CR-touches for about $15 on aliexpress

I’d hop on the discord and post some pictures of it

That is fascinating, hadn’t considered the x axis alignment. Maybe I need to reintroduce some skew

Hello, that is a great question. I’ll bring it up during the next episode of my podcast at Perfectfirstlayer.com The short answer is: shaking is bad, but sometimes it is ok. It’s all relative - if the whole printer was floating in space, and it was shaking twitching around due to the tool head movement, that wouldn’t be a problem. The issue is when there is relative movement between parts. That is, If you have a frame mounted camera looking at the print area, if things are shaking from that perspective you have a problem. If everything is shaking together that is fine. If parts are shaking relative to each other, not fine.

Not yet but I like that idea

@@NathanBuildsRobots I'd def sub to your Patreon if you make one, and help you test it. Someone maden spacers for the CRTouch and fan cowling to work with the K1 block, but with the increased flow comes increased cooling needs and I doubt just adding spacers to my existing setup is goign to work out

It works for both, but the connector is slightly different for the thermistor on the Ender 5 S1, so requires some work to get it running, but technically it is compatible with both.

Apparently there is a 2nd revision of printers that have the CR-touch placed a little differently. Also some extra attention to detail during assembly and flatter heated beds could play a role

@@NathanBuildsRobots Yeah, can confirm. I got both version at home. Ordered them only 2 weeks apart. I probably got one the last V1 versions. The 1.06 firmware doesn't work for V1 because of the changed CR Touch position. Sensor is outside the bed and head bores into the bed when leveling :( Took me some time to figure out that only 1.05 firmware works for V1. The V2 comes shipped with 1.06 installed.

I’ll check on this. I chose the left side because the right side has The stock design doesn’t mesh the front of the bed, so no either way, a portion is being left out. When it comes to fabricating anything there is a concept of “close enough”. Nothing is perfect, but my solution is close enough to get a perfect first layer, so as long as it works, no further optimization needs to be done on my part. Close enough (aka tolerances) landed men on the moon. And the deviation allowed depends on the application. However, the design could be mirrored and slightly modified if you wanted to try this out. If on the right side, you miss out on some of the mess on the right side of the bed and have to worry about the hotend wires interfering with the cr-touch. Neither is that big of a problem

@@NathanBuildsRobots I see your point. I hadn’t considered those things. Sadly, I won’t be any help testing as I’ve completely gutted and rebuilt my ender 5 s1 into a zero-g mercury one and hydra setup. The only thing creality at this stage is the frame lol. Hats off to ya for coming up with these low cost, easy to implement improvements because the road I went down certainly wasn’t either of those things haha. Have you run into any issues with z position accuracy? What led me down the path of gutting the entire bed system was the fact my z-position was consistently inconsistent. One print it would be too high, the next it would be too low. This was with our without using abl.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Dual CR touch mod? Opportunity knocking maybe? Lol

Thank you for the advice, I’ll try putting it on the floor and rerunning the calibration.

Print out the fan duct and put it on! My previous Ender 5 S1 modding videos would probably help.

Nice. I want to learn more about this 2nd version. Doesn't seem to be much info online. If you could share some pictures on the Discord it would be much appreciated!

@@NathanBuildsRobots ok 👌

It’s on my patreon

Yes, you would have to recompile the firmware with new bed offsets

@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks for letting me know. Right now I use a dedicated laptop for the printer so I can "remote" print. That is through the Creality slicer, everything is stock. From my understanding I need to switch the printer firmware to Klipper, which also means I need to hook up a Raspberry Pi, install stuff on there, I'll lose the display on the printer (not a big deal), and I have to install some kind of web-interface on the Raspberry Pi to interact with the printer from there and the laptop will be of no use anymore, does that sound about right?

It is a CHT volcano nozzle with 0.4mm nozzle diameter. If you check my Sonic Pad/Ender 5S1 video I cover the install.

Your right, creality makes sub par designs with bad quality control. But at least they can be fixed outside of the factory. Bambu wants me to send my machine back to them to repair. I said no because I have never sent a machine back after starting a review. Should I just give every company infinite tries to be able to get a “good one”? And what about my video production schedule? Should I just put off making videos to accommodate the fact that they sent out a faulty, nearly unserviceable printer?

I'm planning on doing a teardown. Wouldn't feel right about selling it afterwards, because it may require some "destructive disassembly" methods. I have done a teardown of everything except for the COREXY stage. I've seen a couple videos of people taking that apart, but mine appears to be glued together. Regardless, even if it was pretty much scrap afterwards, I'd try to redesign/reassemble enough parts to get it back up and running (possibly on Klipper)

@@NathanBuildsRobots I would love love love to see that teardown, as well as any mods or DIY replacement parts. I love my P1Ps but we all know they aren't perfect and I don't want to have to replace them if I can fix them one day when something happens.

Haven't tried the Anycubic so it's difficult to say. Maybe if they would send me a machine to test I could share. *Cough*

They have been benchmarking against PRUSA since their foundation. Maybe now that Bambu has shown them that a high performance machine CAN be made on a budget, they’ll get off their rear and start improving their designs!

@@NathanBuildsRobots i wouldn't be so optimistic lol if they will, it sure as heck wont be this year as they still got the ender 5 s1 pro and s1 plus to finish up and release, and these 2 alone already take longer than the ender 3 s1 series, they likely will start with something competing with the p1p at least by q3 or q4 of this year which is my most optimistic guess but nothing released till past q1 2024. unless they paused the s1 pro and plus after seeing bambu lab their machine and soiled their pants that is after delivering this printer in this state. to their credit they did respond somewhat well with the higher demand for klipper and the lack of pi's, but like, that too took about 3-4 months response time for them and released it along side the ender 5 s1. personally i just really want the s1 plus to release already so ppl can review it and give me an idea if it's worth the wait since my prints require a bigger bed than the s1 and the ender 3 s1 plus isn't an option for me since i specifically want a coreXY this time around.

Why do you need a micro adjustment? Automatic should be automatical

@@NathanBuildsRobots No, no... I mean YOU are having to manually make adjustements to the bed corners by raising/lowering, how hard would it be to do your 10-point inspection of the bed, then have those corners automatically adjust exactly thebright amount to make sure that bed is 100% level? 🙂

@@user-ei1ym1lq6h There are printers that do that, but you need a minimum of 3 stepper motors to make that happen. Check out some videos on the voron trident bed leveling for an example. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/meBjiZV5vqyVgJc.html

This is copy-pasted from a community post on the topic. I could explain it with some charts and analysis a lot more clearly, but I don't get paid enough for this shit :P The issue is not with the bed. The bed could be tipped 5 degrees at an angle and the ABL should measure accurately and compensate. Do describe it in mathematical terms, ideally you want an identity matrix to convert inputs to outputs. Meaning, 100mm of movement on X translates to 100 mm movement on X What we have is some weird interplay between axes So when commanding 100mm on X, you end up with something like 101mm on X, 0.1mm on Y, and -0.3mm on Z If you are probing with the nozzle itself, you end up being able to compensate for all of this perfectly. However, if you probe with an offset, the Z coordinate ends up being off by the amount of z error introduced by the offset travel. With the current stock design with a 45mm Y offset, it causes big issues. With my new design, which has 0 Y offset, and ~32mm X offset, everything works great. Y offset introduces much more error than X offset in most printer designs, just due to how they are built. Moving a lightweight carriage along a single extrusion (as is the case on the X-axis) is much less complicated than moving 2 carriages along 2 extrusions, that might not be perfectly aligned with eachother, with 2 belts, and a coupler that might not be working perfectly... There's a lot to unpack. Best bet is to just watch my next episode which will come out today or tomorrow.

If you mean, why did it run off the end and have an error during the first try at making the mesh, it just has to do with the way Klipper does its bed leveling. It wanted to mesh the whole surface, but since the probe is not coincident with the nozzle, the nozzle ends up being able to reach all points on the bed, but the ABL can't. It is unable to mesh the rightmost portion of the bed due to the offset (x carriage can only move to the right so far)

How did you break the heatsink? I have heard the same thing about lack of spare parts availability

Just wing it! It’ll be fine! Or join the discord!

Haha you keep dissing my old videos. It's ok I know it's a compliment. Definitely have been working on the fundamentals of filmmaking.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I think of you as a worthy investment. That's why I reconnected with your Patreon page. Your previous videos (to this one), have all been interesting and entertaining. The rough edges are actually part of your schtict, I think. Personally, I hope you don't start saying "Let's get started" at the beginning of your videos. That seems to be what Google wants, however. But I encourage you to come up with your own slogan. Question: The Ender 5 Plus. Could one install the Sprite Pro on that non-core xy printer?

@@corlissmedia2.0 You probably could, you need to buy the sprite upgrade kit, it's about $110

@@NathanBuildsRobots I’ve got it in the cart. Just debating about putting it in the Ender 5-Plus, or not. I need a big machine to print a future Rook on.

Slappa da bass 👋

And it only requires 4 AA batteries to do this!

Indeed. I told Bambu if they want to send a machine for me to test, they are welcome to, and I will use it in all future comparisons. Just need to make sure they grab it from the "influencer" bin this time.

It misses the front of the bed on the stock profile. It’s not causing any problems though.

K1 is faster and has klipper built in, so better in a lot of ways, but some have extruder issues and overall print quality is higher on the E5S1. Neither are perfect yet

Which test file? the flat circles?

@@NathanBuildsRobots exactly

It was just a random print that I had laying around, and I stopped it manually before it finished the rest of the print. If you're in prusaslicer you can place a bunch of cylinders into the print area manually and do pretty much the same print

@@NathanBuildsRobots I can barely use Cura 522. But I’ll figure something out. Thank you.

Very interesting. I'd like to learn more about this. Do you have any links that I could use to see what the trouble is?

@@NathanBuildsRobots The author of the post about the faulty ribbon cable is Nathan Quick posting on 3D Printing UK, and the guy trying to find replacement silicon socks I cant find, it might have been on Reddit, I will try and search, unfortunetly I installed an app to stop Microsoft mining my data and deleted my history by mistake, I have a save point that I can go back to though.

Dang. Well, seems like its tough info to track down. Personally, I'd just switch to a ceramic heater for the hotend. They are much better and safer.

@@NathanBuildsRobots Creality have really played an ace this time, who in their right mind would release a printer with non standard parts and then not provide any spares for it, I believe he is sending the machine back, and so would I, not that I would have bought this machine in the first place, a P1P is only a little more expensive than the E5S1 and it has professionals running the company!

I will petition the post office to lower their prices XD I have heard of other shipping options that gather a bunch of shipments together, then ship it and split it into smaller packages. I'll look into that as it could provide a cheaper option.

Same here

@@NathanBuildsRobots Will be visiting Canada in the spring time... might ship it to my family instead. Really want to get your board!

Nice, though I hate to tell you canadian shipping isn't much better. I'll look into those alternate shipping options. One is called PirateShip.

@@wyattutz I have reached out to several resellers but have not heard back from them.

I had only heard overwhelmingly positive things about the Bambu Lab printer. There were some minor print quality issues visible though, but I didn’t bother digging too far into it because I assumed it was probably fine. I have a 2nd P1P to test, will see if it’s presenting the same issues or if the first one was just a lemon

And the biggest issue with Bambu printers is that they are closed-source machines. I mean, I get why they went this way, but still, f*ck you Bambu. The beauty of open-source 3D printers is the modifiability, and when someone tries to take this away from me, that's when they lose me as a potential client.

Yeah, standing on the shoulders of giants and taking a shit all over them while they climb their way to the top. Creality really need to focus on cleaning up their designs. They are still the most upgradable printers on the market and are excellent project printers, because there are so many little things to fix. That experience isn’t for everyone though. Most of the time I recommend the artillery sidewinder X2. Huge print area, fast for a bedslinger, cheap at around $270, and easy to assemble.

@Russell Phelan Actually, good point.

Quality is the #2 priority!

Not really a Rube Goldberg machine. It’s 2 functions, deploy and detect. It has 1 moving part. Is a ball point pe a Rube Goldberg machine? I do like the bambu solution though. Gets rid of weight on the tool head. There are other printers in the market that use load cell based leveling, but putting it in the bed really is a good idea

@@NathanBuildsRobots compared to piezo sensors, mechanical touch sensors are dinosaurs. they are an order of magnitude more complex than piezos. put them under the bed like bambu, or in the extruder as some others do. bambu showed how lazy and complacent the industry has become. prusa mk3s+ kit for 799 or p1p for 699? lol.

Yes but you want a little springiness in the drive train as possible. Zeroing out the preload between the belts is the best option, along with tensioning the belts

Incorrect. It is faster than the P1P in silent mode. The benchy shown in this video finished in under 40 minutes If you look at the screenshot of babmbu slicer at 10:18 You will notice that the predicted time is around 48 minutes using the standard profile at normal speed.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I honestly couldn't tell u have x1 carbon its 24 min with all calibration or 17 min without in standard figured p1p was close to that

@@NathanBuildsRobots have ender 3 s1 can get down to 31 min on klipper but running into cooling issues that ender 5 fans set up u have would he nice on 3s1

Interesting. Maybe Bambu Lab should send me an X1C to review so I can try that out. The Benchy shown on the video is the Creality sliced Boat running at 200% speed, 5000mm^2/s accelerations, and 0.2mm layer height. In Bambuslicer, if I I set it to the fastest print profile (super draft 0.28mm layers, 1. wall) it finishes in 37 with preparation time or 31 without. I wonder if Bambulab can cut down on the preparation time with a firmware update. The bed leveling and initial setup is a bit slow.

I have some cooling duct designs for the Ender 3 S1, which I'd gladly reccommend (I've made videos on them). But this other design might be better than mine. I'm very curious about it and will try it out when I have the time: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5511666

They revised the design after the first month of 2 of production to fix some of the issues I was having.

@@NathanBuildsRobots I don't know man... Just received one Ender-5 S1 to review and I'm getting this weird first layer issue :( The right side of the bed is always too close to the nozzle, but all 4 corners are perfectly leveled!

Yeah, there are some zero Y-offset mounts for the Ender 3 S1. That is where I got the idea for this, but it applies there too!

@@NathanBuildsRobots good to know thanks! i plan on putting a different fan duct on my s1 since part cooling sucks on it stock and probably picking up one of your modder boards. you got great content man keep it up!!

Apparently my last video got shared on the Bambu Lab Facebook group. I think they felt personally attacked.

@@NathanBuildsRobots The influencers marketing bambulab as "no work; fastest printer" really should be liable for the numerous people buying them and not having an experience even remotely close to that. I've got yt premium but I go to a private window with adblock on when I'm watching any slice/bambu shills' videos. It's sad to see people that are otherwise good creators handing in their trustworthiness and reputability in exchange for the bag.

Odd companies pay for the type of testing and feedback you do. You would think they would send more product for Nathan Torture Testing. Think of the marketing "survived NathanBuildRobots" stamp of approval could deliver.

@@ballbous Yeah, slice pays good affiliate rates. So you won't hear much bad about them. Bambu is a new company and everyone wants to get in on the ground level as one of Bambu's nomba won inflshilluencers.

Video is a 0/10 from me though, you clearly didn't apply enough boron nitride paste. Would have solved all your levelling issues.

I already applied boron nitride paste to the nozzle last episode, but you’re right. I should have put a fresh layer down. Also it was negligent to not spread some some under the spring steel sheet with a butter knife.

Apple fanboy here, my Mac is better for 90% of what I need to do on a computer. But I still use Windows and Linux for engineery stuff. And if you disagree YOU ARE WRONG!!! REEEEEEE

@@NathanBuildsRobots LOL

It is much better for a product that is released in a finished state. Having to slap improvements on in the aftermarket to meet its design intent is fun for me, but makes the company seem unprofessional.

@@NathanBuildsRobots also, your material on KZfaq is copyright. Creatlity can't use your work without compensating you. The tie-in to the Modder Board (Nathan's Miracle Modder Board, I call it), brings income to Nathan, so that's nice. Maybe Creatility will order 1000's of them????? That would be nice too!

For some reason, large companies have a hard time switching out old designs. Also if the new part is even a penny more expensive than the old one it's a hard sell to management.