Or was it that the abs saw the brakes applied and didn't see the brakes working, so it applied pressure to the front wheels? And that caused the wheels to overheat.

There is a recall from Hyundai on this issue: Hyundai Motor Company (Hyundai) is recalling certain 2013-2014 Elantra sedan, coupe and GT vehicles. The brake pedal stopper pad can deteriorate allowing the brake light switch plunger to remain extended when the brake pedal is released. This will allow the brake lights to remain illuminated continuously. It can also allow the shift lever to be moved without depressing the brake pedal, or activate the engine management brake pedal override feature

Great diagnostics as ever, thanks for sharing your experience, I always learn a lot from your videos!

1 i would love to see a full garage tour 2 i love brake videos all the info is well needed in this field all the videos i love even thought of coming to work for you guys

Definitely you save someone there pain and aggravation, money, and possibly their life! Great catch 💯💪

Good attention to detail

Awesome video as always

Hyundai tech here, don’t recall if that year counts but I’m pretty sure it does however we actually have a TSB/ Service campaign active for this exact thing. I could find it if I went looking but off the top of my head the brake light switch does work along with the wheel speed sensors to detect and prevent lock up. I’m a little iffy because I personally haven’t had to deal with it much due to only being an employee for a year. Definitely an interesting one for sure, I swear hyundai has some of the weirdest things happen

Thanks, great video.

Interesting, as always!

Great job to you and your team man! This situation could of easily put this customers life in danger. Super glad yall were able to figure this out for them. Very educational!

So the problem was the stop lamp switch causing the brakes to be applied?

It looked to me like the plunger bumper (insert) that fell out, had been pushed up and was lodged in the brake pedal in such a way to hold it slightly depressed. Once it fell out, that would've solve the problem of the brakes being applied without foot pressure, but would need to be reinstalled properly to solve the brake light issue.

I’m not sure the path was complete. There are a few other things I would have done. See if the rear brakes are applying. Try to bleed the rears and see if you get fluid flow. The rear rotors looked rusted to me but it was only a quick view I saw. Proportioning valve stuck, does it have one. Is it a diagonal split system? I’d ask, was it recently worked? What was done? Has the car been sitting a while? Calipers frozen in the holders.

man, that sounds Iike a bad design, but i appreciate the steps 👍🏼

Grasias

puppy 😂❤❤

Can you show an estimate for something like this and how calling the customer goes,.

when is ac part 2 is coming?

Ive had to fix multiple vehicles like this ..i actually put a small round head bolt

Just by the title I was thinking it was going to be a malfunction with the new parking brake system.

I had a hyundai where front left wheel locked up do to the abs unit and there was a recall where they had to install a resistor for it not to happen again

I worked on a Nissan Altima that kept going into low power mode when the headlights were turned on. It ended up being a bad Tail light assembly letting voltage bleed up on the brake wire, making it think the brakes were applied whenever the headlights were on.

I’ve seen MC failure causing no rear brake operation as indicated by the LR rotor condition causing overheating of front brake system. The vehicle will return

Where is your location

Guys, I have the same problem with my car, it is the same Hyundai model, same year, I need to know if it is wrong to press the switch completely or I should press it but not so hard, please help, the brakes lock

Highly unusual I think, I have recently seen a booster causing this issue though. With the engine running it would gently apply the brakes, eventually causing heat damage very similar. Have to watch for this brake switch issue now also.

IMPORTANT: Sear Sir, I strongly believe that the brakes is partially engaged because of a faulty brake hose, specially the front ones, not due to brake switch. It happens in my Honda after I replaced brakes and rotors for couple of times to find out that one of the front brake hoses looks very fine from the outside , but it have some sort of collapse from the inside which make it act like a checkvalve, i.e. compressing flued to the caliper but not back or it takes long tome to relieve back due to clogged brake hose. So please remove the hose and check it with compressed air and compare to new one. Take Care. John

in the end the problem was the brake switch? how did the switch keep the brakes on? sorry i got confused

Surprised the computer wouldn't trigger a sanity check light when seeing the brake and accelerator pedal continuously pressed.

We’re prolly gonna see more of this with electronic brakes now a days. Where the brake pedal is now an input electronically to the master that runs a pump to brake the car.

I just feel pissed on behalf of the car owner. ALL of that hassle and $$$ because of a friggin' dinky little part like that. Dang.

Can you drag out the video a little longer?

Engineers should try working in the real world before drawing cars.

Finally an electoral prob that wasnt fixed with that 2ft screw driver! Lol

Honda button work in most cases might need to cut down the rear a lil

thats a great example of adas turning the brakes on when the pedal is not depressed 🙂

I had a chevrolet pu one time come in the shop bad master cylinder bad had filled booster full of fluid. replaced master cylinder and booster bled system test drove everything good. customer picked it up lived about 10 miles from the shop called me later and said he smelled brakes brought back i drove it couldn't get it to do it. he picked it up again he was a older man his son called next time and said you had to drive 10 to 15 miles before it would do it. brought it back i drove and sure thing little over 10 miles truck started slowing down and would completly stop fron brakes hot pull over and switch off wait 2 or 3 minutes and start up same thing all over again. kept driving and found out all you had to do was switch off the truck and start back up and brakes were just fine until drove about 10 miles. took me several days research ran across a article where same thing happened and the rod coming out of booster out of adjustment did same thing. i loosened mastercylinder and sure enough about 2 flat washers of pressure so i installed 2 flat washers drove problem gone. replaced booster again and all was good. could have adjusted rod but parts house said no let them replace it replaced it no more problems. strange things happen

Mayby main cilinder break been replaced with wrong installation before🇮🇱