The Chief (5.5) | Rock Climbing in Joshua Tree National Park

Рет қаралды 12,832

Күн бұрын

“The Chief” is located in Joshua Tree National Park on a formation called “Reggie Dome”. It is a great climb for the grade. It’s easy to protect, the rock is featured, and the climbing is fun! I’ve provided some useful links below that are related to the video.
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COMMENT and engage with me about your climbing!
Note: Reggie Dome has a well-marked climbers’ trail. Avoid social trails and save the desert soil!
CHAPTERS
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(0:00) Introduction
(1:20) Climbing
(11:10) Anchor & Summit View
(12:10) Closing Comments
ROUTE INFORMATION
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Reggie Dome: www.mountainproject.com/area/...
The Chief: www.mountainproject.com/route...
ANCHOR SETUP
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Pre-Equalized 3 Piece Anchor w/Munter Extension and BHK Master Point
Pieces Used: (2) #1 Camelot (1) #3 Camelot
HOW I LEARNED TO TRAD CLIMB
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Stone Adventures - Joshua Tree: stone-adventures.com
GUIDEBOOK
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Joshua Tree Rock Climbs: Robert Miramontes
CAMERA INFO
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Hero 9 Black
Hero 9 Black Media Mod

Пікірлер: 60

@jtf107 Жыл бұрын

Never let your climbing partner go - there arent many other people out there who can tolerate so many "bombskies" on one route.

@WheelinMatt 3 ай бұрын

I’ve watched this video so many times the last few months and have been dying to do this climb. Finally did it with my son last night for sunset and it was awesome. Thanks for the great videos, I’ve watched Route 66 a million times also but the long approach has kept me on climbs closer to my truck (bad knee)

@KlaasicAdventure Ай бұрын

Thanks for the good word @WheelinMatt. I'm stoked you and your son got to experience a sunset summit together on Reggie Dome. The Chief is a good climb! Glad you like the videos as much as I love making them. Route 66 is a good one as well. But, it is a little more of a trek. If you have a specific grade range and/or style you guys are targeting, let me know and I can possibly suggest something. A similar climb that comes to mind is "Yosemite Sam" on the Super Heroes Wall. Easy approach, moderate grade, great rock.

@donwilson0430 3 жыл бұрын

Fun to run into this vid. Thanks for the homage! Glad you enjoyed it.

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Whoa, it's Don Wilson! Glad you enjoyed the video Don! You guys put up a really fun route. I'm super stoked to go climb some more of your other F/A's. If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear them! Based upon Victor's comment above, it sounds like you're still developing in the Tucson area?

@staleyexplores Жыл бұрын

this is an excellent trad climb for the newer trad climber imho, very cool.

@dwainwarren2952 2 жыл бұрын

It's really fun doing that route with just nuts and hexes!

@T3PinR 2 жыл бұрын

Nice video - I love seeing moderate climbs being filmed. There's only so much of stuff that's impossible to most of us. That was a nice climb.

@jon4739 2 жыл бұрын

Not sure how I ended up on your video but glad I did. Old school climber from the 80s doing trad and bolting in the deep south sandstone caves and overhanging lines. I really enjoyed seeing you place your gear in real time figuring out the sizes and best positions. I have come full circle as a dad of two girls who are learning to climb. I am really loving moving across the stone in the 5.5-5.8 grade with my young ones. I am over the 5.12 runout trad routes I did in my youth. This was just a refreshing climbing video with honesty and happiness.... Rock on! Just got another Sub :)

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Jon! Thanks for the good word. I appreciate the stoke! Climbing is something that I am passionate about, but also something that I don't take too serious. I think it is easy to get caught chasing grades and ratings. However, climbing for the love of climbing...now that's a magical thing! I can for sure relate to your love of movement. It's super awesome you share that with your daughters. That's what it's all about! Super stoked!

@johnleclair663 Жыл бұрын

Nice Video! I enjoyed it. My only comment - I am not sure I would have hung my hat on that first piece of pro. You added a longer sling to it, but no... if that was up higher in the climb - that would have scared me.

@victorcarrasquillo5081 3 жыл бұрын

Nice video! Don and Karen Wilson are some rad Climbers. They are still putting up a lot of climbs on Mt. Lemmon in Tucson!

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Victor! I haven't climbed Mt. Lemmon yet. But, I want to go explore it and also check out Cochise. Both places look really good.

@frankwilliams5766 2 жыл бұрын

Just stumbled across your videos by chance. Starting to get into trad and seeing what to expect on these "easy" grades is super helpful. Keep it up!

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the good word @frank! I appreciate it. Welcome to the world of adventure climbing. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

@frankwilliams5766 2 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure Actually--I just thought of a question! I just lead my first multi-pitch trad yesterday. 5.6/5.7, but it had bolted anchors which made it so much more approachable from the mental side of things. Any suggested trad climbs in California that have bolted anchors? I don't think that is a filter option on MP.

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Honestly, all areas can be hit-or-miss when it comes to bolted belay anchors. I can name a few off the top of my head in Joshua Tree. However, a LOT of the time you'll have to build your own anchor on trad routes. It's just the style and ethic of trad climbing vs. sport climbing. Personally, I would recommend getting some instruction. When I started, I hired a guide in Joshua Tree and spent an entire day just working on anchor building. But, after that day, I was throwing together bomber anchors and top-roping trad routes pretty easily. My guide gave me the knowledge and confidence I needed to feel comfortable.. Also, the Falcon Guide "Climbing Anchors" book by Bob Gaines and John Long is stellar. It's a good additional resource to have. To the original question...you could check out Alabama Hills, Holcomb Valley, or even Red Rock Canyon NV. These are all mixed areas where bolted belays are generally more common. Also, slab routes generally always have a bolted belay given the nature of the rock.

@drclimbmx 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks to Share!

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

🤙🤙

@maverickrider4591 3 жыл бұрын

I came here to see the HERO9 Black Max Lens Mod. This activity requires big brass balls and 30 meters of rope. I see the black max works very well, thank you.

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Haha. Thanks for the comment and for the laugh Maverick. I found this video recently that really illustrates how well the Max Lens mod stabilizes footage. It might be helpful to you if you're considering purchasing one! Link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pJtddbuC3JjPemg.html

@maverickrider4591 3 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure I just saw "Out of stock on the lens" @ the GoPro website, looks like GoPro decided for me

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

@@maverickrider4591 Ah, the worst! I hate when that happens.

@BahZerkle 3 жыл бұрын

Nice! I just dropped a video rock climbing in Joshua Tree too! Such a cool place!

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Nice. It looks like you guys climbed Trashcan Rock. That's a fun little romp!

@tompatton2086 3 жыл бұрын

Well done. As an arm-chair quarterback, the only suggestion I would have is when leading a route, keep the rope between you and the wall. If your leg gets between the rope and the wall and you take a fall, it can flip you backwards. Nice climb and thanks for posting this!

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Tom! Thanks for stopping in. Your arm chair advice is great advice. Thanks for the reminder and for the good word! 🤙

@johnparla6252 3 жыл бұрын

It’s fun 👍

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

So fun. Especially for the grade!

@LouDude502 2 жыл бұрын

I might have to do this again, or for the first time. I think I climbed the wrong crack lol. Thanks for sharing

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Haha. That will happen. Sometimes locating a route is like finding a needle in a haystack!

@LouDude502 2 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure and half the adventure IMO🤙

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

@@LouDude502 true that! 🤙

@aaronwinnenberg6843 8 ай бұрын

Wondering why your belayer hung out at the bottom of the 3. Seems like it would have introduced enough slack in the line for you to take a grounder regardless of piece placement along the route.

@christophercardella1690 Жыл бұрын

Placement at 9:28 had great potential for some bomber passive pro instead of the tiny cam

@bboudreau5 2 жыл бұрын

Sick climb! I’m really interested in how you rigged up that anchor at the end. 1 - you extended the anchor with the rope? 2- how were you safely getting to the ledge? 3 - how did you tie the new master point? Thanks man!

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Patrick! The anchor is a standard 3 piece pre-equalized anchor. However, instead of belaying directly off the master point, you clip a munter hitch into the master point and essentially "lower yourself" to the edge. You can do this all while staying on-belay if needed. When you get to edge, you tie a BHK which becomes your new master point and fixed safety tether. I learned this technique from a certified PCGI guide. It comes in handy when you have to utilize anchor opportunities that aren't within direct sight of your climber. Climbing magazine also has an article that talks about this very technique. (See link below under heading: "Extended Master Point") Link: www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-belay-extensions/

@jens.bracht 3 жыл бұрын

Looked like that #2 could easily have walked into the wide gap above it, didn't think a 3 would work better there?

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Jens! Thanks for dropping in. I put alpine extensions on most of my placements. Most of the time, that will prevent my cams from walking. Also, since the direction of fall would have pulled that #2 deeper into the constriction, I wasn't too worried about the flare. But, good eye. A #3 may have been more textbook. I did bring one, but I was anticipating needing it for the anchor up top. :)

@elongrobey5907 3 жыл бұрын

Hi I’m super new to climbing and would love to get started in Joshua tree. What do you suggest I start with there? All I’ve done in the past is just point at a peak and climbed to the top however I see fit. I have zero technique, I just do whatever I can with my current abilities in order to get to the top. Let me know if you have any suggestions of what I should do next to expand my knowledge of climbing!

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Elon! Great question. One of the best ways to experience outdoor climbing in Joshua Tree is to hire a local guide. They provide a really great environment for those looking to get started in the sport. A day with a guide gives you great exposure to gear, technique, safety, and they provide a clear path for progression. When I first decided I wanted to get into climbing, I hired a guide from "Stone Adventures" (a local Joshua Tree guide service) on several different occasions. I was able to climb a bunch of fun formations and learn a bunch of skills needed to become a self-sufficient climber. It's a great way to get a lot of knowledge fast and have fun while doing it.

@mstott22lax 2 жыл бұрын

Would love to climb this

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

It's a good one! 🤙

@RichPlaza 3 жыл бұрын

Hey man for this route could I use a standard rack of #0.3 to #3 along with a set of stoppers?

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Rich! You could absolutely zipper it up with a standard rack and stoppers. The route is pretty short (~45 feet) and it absolutely loves stoppers. If you want to use the same anchor location I did, make sure to save a few 1" - 3" pieces for the anchor. Also, as you probably saw, you'll need at least a 60 meter rope for the rappel. Make sure to tie knots in your rope ends and center the rope on the middle marker. You'll need all 60 meters! If you end up climbing "The Chief", let me know what you think of the route. Yew!

@RichPlaza 3 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure wow thank you man for the beta this is super helpful! I’ve just recently just started trad climbing so I appreciate it. I’ll defrintley let you know once I climb it the route looks very fun and inspiring to me.

@RichPlaza 3 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure also I love the videos man really great quality! Subscribed and keep it up:D.

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

@@RichPlaza Awesome. The Chief will be right up your alley. It's one of the best beginner leads in Joshua Tree in my opinion due to positive climbing, good rock quality, plenty of protection opportunities, and it's in a cool area. Stoked for you! Thanks for the subscribe and for the video feedback!

@marcmichael521 3 жыл бұрын

Very nice! Thanks. What time of year was this?

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

I filmed this one on December 30th, 2020. Are you asking in relation to the weather?

@marcmichael521 3 жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure Yes! Planning a trip. 😃

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

@@marcmichael521 Nice. If you need any recommendations, feel free to ask! 🤙

@bix12593 2 жыл бұрын

STEMSKI!!!

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Stemski broski!!!

@dwainwarren2952 2 жыл бұрын

A #9 hex would have worked better than that gold cam.

@davepassaro7133 3 жыл бұрын

bombskies, stemskies, bombskies lel

@KlaasicAdventure 3 жыл бұрын

😂🤙🤙

@dariocarafa3788 2 жыл бұрын

How come you keep burping out the word "you" ? Is it some climbing term I've never heard or is it like an inside joke? Cool climbing it looks like something I'd love to do

@KlaasicAdventure 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Dario! "Yew" is a term I picked up from surfing and is commonly used in action sports. Generally speaking, it's an audible representation of being "stoked"...which, happens to me a lot. So, I'm always saying it! "Yew!"

@mls01981 Жыл бұрын

@@KlaasicAdventure That's so funny. I say/hear "Yew" all the time and I surf and climb... for the life of me I have no idea when it came into being!