What you said works just fine. However, the plumbing code, where I live clearly states that drainage piping shall NEVER be down sized. ( I know that there are exceptions to every rule ) They now make 3" cheater flanges that fit inside the 3" ABS pipe. Yes ,I know this is against code as well, in most areas but it is the same idea as what you do and the WC only has a 2" trap so I don`t see it as a big deal. It`s quick, does a neat job and works just fine. There are more than just one way that works.

Steven L Emerson the 4x3closet 90 is the only fitting where this reduction in drain piping is allowed. In reality it's not much reduction ,just one way I was taught to rough in . Inspectors have always approved. Good luck to all.

bingo! You nailed it

Thanks for this info. I'm going to be renovating a house built in the 40s where they jammed a toilet into a 23" alcove & wet-vented the shower through the lavatory (and the lav was s-trapped)-- oh, and they have an ABS 90 elbow glued to PVC. Basically, it's a nightmare and I'm gutting it. The tip of putting the pipe up above the floor and cutting sounds like a very good idea. I plan to install vinyl sheet so there won't be much difference in height, but I can set the flange on top of it so if there are any leaks it will hopefully not go under the vinyl.

This comment above all others makes the most sense. You're cutting the pipe to fit anyway, leave extra until the work is done and you are absolutely sure what you're working with. Then trim to fit. Sure wish my contractor did that when replaced the subflooring in my place. After 6 months of use I found out yesterday the damned toilet has been leaking after spending $10K to replace subflooring and do bathroom rennovation. I mean w the absolute f man?

What if the toilet doesn't sit flush with the floor do I get smaller flange? Or cut down into floor p.s I have no idea what I'm doing lol

Finally someone who knows what they’re talking about, I’m 44 years in the business

I make wood donuts out of pressure treated plywood. The O.D. of the donut is flush with the O.D. of the flange. As long as you know what the finish floor will be, you'll know what height the donut should be (plywood thickness). Literally, the piece of wood is cut the shape of a donut. Trace plywood with flange. Find the center of your traced circle. Use proper holes saw size so pipe side of flange fits through donut. Cut the outside traced circle with a circular saw, (if you're good), jig saw if you're not. Place flange on top of donut. Screw flange and donut to sub floor. Cement board and tile up to flange. Flange perfectly set at the rough stage.

not if you have a floating floor you cant...and most people today have those...waterproof pergo, laminate etc. its needs to be able to move...also, many times it will void the warranty on the floor

I’m doing this same technique with the excel of the 4x3 Closet 90.

I hate products like these. Totally disregard code. If he can sell this shit I should be able to run 2" to a toilet. I can't so he shouldn't be able too either

I see that being a problem. Can that gasket be trimmed on the inside to correct opening size?

"Good to go". LOL

I’m calling B S 😂 you did something wrong. I’ve used this product and others like it, hundreds of times. The reduced ID of the flange, will not impede the flow, if used correctly. If you are having a clogging problem, it was either installed wrong, or there is a blockage in the toilet or the line. The reduced ID is still bigger or the same size as the outlet in a toilet.

@@sativa2050 I myself would not call BS , the yellow insert is too small for some toilets , Mansfield would probably work but not so sure about American Standard Champion . Also some very old toilets can have a 3 inch Bombay

On Toto's they say NEVER to use a wax ring with a plastic horn....it interferes with how they flush. As far as this Set-Rite system works, how are you supposed to drive in your hold-down bolts if they hit the metal flange underneath or an existing screw? I think it's a lot of bother when the best method is to use a purpose-built inside plastic cutter of the correct size and start over. It's UPC to seal the toilet to the floor for sanitation (males) reasons. However, you're allowed to leave the back uncaulked as you say for evidence of a future leak. I always roughed in with a cover pipe ....usually the next size. Put a test plug in the stub pipe for a water test. If the cover pipe was sized correctly, just remove, cut your stub internally, and glue on your flange. I think it's crazy stupid to set a flange on a subfloor.

I agree 100% with everything you said

I'll caulk everything in front but then not the back for this reason, but keeps boys messes from going under.

Down here in Florida you definitely want to caulk underneath or even grout if you want. Whatever color your toilet is-that’s the silicone caulk or grout color you’ll use. I’ve even mixed some latex caulk with white grout to make the grout more flexible when dry. You want to caulk/silicone/grout to hide shims if you ended up needing them. Plus you don’t want nasty water that overflowed toilet to get under there and rot. You don’t want your wax ring to eventually go bad and cockroaches come up from sewer and escape into house. Plus you’d be surprised how much guys miss or the backsplash gets on floor then the floor gets mopped and the urine on floor keeps getting swished under toilet. Most of the time if it’s grouted you can see discolored grout if it’s leaking underneath. Rotting under toilet does come from overflowing toilets too-not just from a bad wax ring. Even if caulked or grouted it can still get under there thru those or even thru grout on tile then it runs under tile. Once water is under there it takes forever for it to dry anyway. Even if a wax ring goes bad it’s easier to tell it’s bad if the toilet is sealed with caulk/grout. Why you ask? Because it makes an echo chamber. The water flushing will get loud and you’ll hear it gurgle it’s way down and echo under toilet. An experienced plumber can tell either way but for you DIYers, Homeowners or handymen-just flush the toilet and you can hear the flush being loud. If you’re a home owner and you’re noticing the flush is getting louder and louder then it’s a bad wax ring. Even if you don’t caulk or grout under toilet it doesn’t mean if you have a bad wax ring it will come out underneath right away. Water finds the lowest spot and this is where the toilet flange in floor is so the water will go there first and then go down around outside of sewer pipe, go underneath would or laminate floors and yes even go under tile floor and travel even feet away until it has a spot to come up that’s down hill from the toilet. Sorry for a long babbling comment so I’ll leave homeowners,DIYers and handymen a tip. Whenever using caulk/silicone get your self a can of Denatured alcohol and an empty spray bottle with mist spray. Denatured is just like rubbing alcohol but it doesn’t evaporate so fast & is weaker-it won’t hurt anything . You can do this trick on anything-around windows,toilets, baseboards,crown molding, trim, shower,tub, countertops ,bath/shower fixtures, anywhere. Apply your caulk with your caulk gun and then before using your finger mist the whole line of the caulk/silicone with the Denatured alcohol. Now run your finger to smooth it. The Denatured alcohol will prevent any caulk from sticking to either side of your caulk line & you-it’s almost like you put tape on the wall. It will leave you with a professional caulk line if you’re not good at caulking. I hope i just saved the world and many showers, windows, countertops from actually leaking from incorrect caulking.

@@Eejtalk Covering the front and leaving it open in the back means you will never notice the leak until it gets really bad. Better to just smack your boys upside the head until they stop peeing all over the floor.

@@Eejtalk Right a book next Time.

How about tile grout so the toilet does not rock ? Water will pass through grout

It sounds like the boss never thinks about the best quality repair; he just wants to get it done. Keep doing what you're doing, think it through, and do it right. I have a lot of issues with hiring people to repair my house because they too often do something fast and cheap that pisses me off. As the building super, you're not paid to rush!

Sounds like you should be the boss

@@Jason-un9ps he didn't like me questioning how he got stuff done, so I was fired. Go figure. It's OK I'll get more work and more training!

This comment is hilarious and so true!

This is well worth watching just to understand why the heck this toilet is crooked. Physically or mechanically I instantly get -- but how?/why?/who?/when ?? Timeline drama. Pathetic.

lol!

😂😂😂

Great vid. Got floor rot. Getting ready to cut plywood floor Bought dewalt oscillating tool Ready to copy. Thx.

Yes, after the tile is done.

It does reduce the ID but it will not affect flow. The siphon tube in the toilet is the same size or smaller than the reduced flange ID. I’ve never had an issue with reduced flanges.

They want you to remove the old Johnny bolts. Place their spacer and flange on top. And screw their six screws through and down into the sub floor. These screws will prevent gapping. Then with the secured top, Johnny bolt from there up into toilet, with wax or other gasket. If you want to keep your old Johnny bolts for some reason. Then this kit would be a waste, as you’re buying a whole lot of parts for one spacer and a gasket. I’m writing this as I breath in raw sewage so some details might be grammatically awkward lol

Lucky Luke ;,4Runner a autumn a

You do know that all the piping in a toilet is less than 3” right? So matching the diameter of the toilet outlet with the flange, is not that big of a deal. If the clog is big enough to stop at the flange, it is big enough to stop inside the toilet. This reduced opening will not make a difference in clogging. I’ve installed hundreds of reduced flanges into cast iron waste pipes. Meaning the iron pipe is 4-6 inches and I installed an expansion flange with a 3” opening. I’ve never had an issue with increased clogging.

99% of the time when a toilet clogs, it is the toilet that is clogging, not waste in the waste line. Has nothing to do with the flange. Also, the system described in the video is fastened down with screws, so there will be no gaps between the spacers and their flange, especially if you silicone between them.

even my toto drake 1.6 only has a 2 3/8 outlet diameter which is smaller than this extender which is 2 5/8

I’m having the same issue. I believe the floor has some rotten I’ll need a thicker spacer.

Definitely, he said it comes with stainless screws, otherwise nothing would hold your toilet down.

celeronxl big box hardware stores sell them in 4 inch.

Yes you should always use a wax ring with all toilets

Yes, there's a recess on the base of the bowl. The horn is even with the base. So when you set a can, the horn goes inside the flange.

cagar sin toilet

@@jackeld9153 - Shit without toilet?

If the new owner comes in and decides to change the floor for something different, they’re stuck with whatever thickness of flooring (or thicker) is down unless they want to shim the toilet. That’s why you put the flange on the slab. He’s trying to sell a product that can be overcome with an extra high wax ring.

flange needs installed at rough, back in my production days we would do 10 to 25 houses at a time they werent sold or if they were who cares you aind going to know the flooring. go ask a carpenter give me break he dont speak english any how. Ive literaly screwed hundreds of them dow to the plywood floor. So no your premise is wrong your talking custom homes and Im talking hundreds of homes. yea yea in a perfect world you find out finish floor.

Jeff Y .. paaalease ... really you don’t talk to the other contractors?.. I’ve done thousands maybe 1, or two there wasn’t anyone around .. in that case you know their going to put in a floor most likely tile, so you automatically rough it in a 1/4-1/2” anyway ... check your code Einstein..

The flange is between 1/4 and 3/8 for a pvc flange. I completely ignore metal flanges because they are junk. Anyone who has done service work knows this. I’ve been doing it for 30 years and my first 20 years I probably did 300 houses a year in new construction. A tile floor is approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch thick. A regular wax ring is plenty to fill this gap. And if one is in doubt you can get an extra thick wax ring or double it. This video is just a sales pitch. That’s all it is. Trying to cause worry When there shouldn’t be any.

@Kathern Pierro I had no idea she had a boyfriend. Sorry you had to find out that way bro

This is what I am curious about! Different plumbers say different things. Some say use spacers, some say double up the wax rings, so say don't just stack them but blend them, some say don't do that at all. UGH. What is the best way?

If you did this a million times then they must all leak!

You are absolutely right. I've installed American Standard and Kohler and both required that the flange be flush with the floor... or very close to flush. Below the finished floor might be a problem at times but flush works very well.

Great comment, thanks!

I bought one​ at Menards

You can use cement screw anchors with the stainless screws. I always use weather tight tapcons. Never had any corrosion issues with them. Much easier to place the flange, drill the holes and zip in some tapcons. Versus put the flange, mark holes, remove flange, drill over sized holes, put in anchors, put flange in, hope the holes line up, then screw in screws.

Here is the video for mounting to concrete floors - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g99zftJos6uWeZ8.html

ha! plumbers.......because engineers need heros too

I'm no plumber or engineer and I replaced my three.....it's a wax ring dude, have a little confidence.

@@spatt833 exactly, because without confidence you might end up paying some money

"I'm an engineer" God help us all

Lol 🤣