Hell yea!!!! That was nice of him

I bet you will get one on order!! Good job!!

How much does this job cost?

Great job!

Nice work. I have used 100's of Timeserts over the last 20+ years and have never had 1 fail.

Dido , A repair as good as original thread 😉

The Rolls-Royce Merlin was made with thread inserts in every bolt hole. Not cheap or rapid manufacturing but it was extremely reliable.

I have been known to use EDM and make a broken fastener go away and send a tap in for freshing h the original threads. Takes time however, the deed is amazing on the end of repair. Stupid hard metals can be tackled with EDM and results are darned nice.

Jams... hold my camera 📷 🤪

I think that other shop was trolling. Even without the timesert, it could have been possible to use a stepped stud, or drill out the main and fit a larger bolt. torquing would be difficult, but nothing a dial gauge couldn't handle. who has that kind of money to throw away a brand new block.

@@martin-vv9lf Other shop: "We'll take if off your hands. It's scrap". NOT

I thought that was a little wild for a machine shop to say that

@@martin-vv9lfSo what’s worse, a shop saying they can’t do the work, or a shop “trolling” in an attempt to upsell?

Clean them out first then use a fluted/flared tap then a bottoming/plug tap with cutting fluid.

@@shadowopsairman1583 And good luck even finding the bottoming taps, unless you special-order them ahead of time. You'll most likely get a blank stare if you go into most hardware stores these days and ask for one.

Taps are really too aggressive just for cleaning an existing threaded hole. When I built my engine, I seen that everyone swore by a thread chasing kit. Decent ones are pricey, but they clean the threads, and straighten threads, while cutting at a minimum. I cleaned every single threaded hole with this kit.

In the energy generation field we chase every hole with bolts before reassembling. We only chase with a tap if we find an issue.

@@redmondjp Potting soil and paint ,sure!

I was coming down here to say something like this. I've always found an end mill better for removing a botched bolt than a drill. Drills flex and can go off angle, especially with different hardnesses of bolt vs parent material, but end mills never do in my experience. It is possible to run into a length issue with end mills, though.

This is how we do it although we use high speed steel end mills since 90% of the time we are removing a broken tap and we consider them sacrificial. But it's way cheaper than scrapping the piece and starting over.

Exactly. If you have the machine, use a vert. mill. I've managed many times to bore out a stud then pull out the threads like a coilspring.

@@TheHonestL1ar Even if your endmill isn't long enough, it'll still give you a great flat surface to work with and you can use a center drill to give yourself a perfect start to follow up with the proper size drill bit. Once a drill bit is started straight and it's cutting evenly across both sides it'll go straight but trying to start a drill bit directly on the broken bolt without first cleaning it up is asking for trouble if you need tight tolerances.

​@@WhoThisGuy515 so you cut hss with hss?

Ok but at that point why not buy a brand new car instead of rebuilding an engine? 😅

@@AlessioSangalli Depends on the shop, not always super expensive and sometimes its nice to have a second set on hands and eyes on a project. Even still every refresh is 99% of the time a deck and head surface etc.

I always check their work myself. That pays off every time.

@@AlessioSangalli You must be Scrooge McDuck, swimming around in your vault full of gold coins, if you can make statements that contemptuous.

@@GGigabiteMjust yesterday I removed the engine of my 20 years old car and I will take it to an automotive machine shop as soon as my health allows it.

Much better than Helicoil in my opinion.

@prevost8686 Torque test channel did a video comparing helicoil to timesert, among other thread repair solutions, all in cast iron. The helicoil actually did better than the timesert. 🤷

I mean, we used them to repair cylinder head threads, at the GM dealership I worked at. I know, dealerships can have their hacks, but this repair was actually engineered up, and passed down to us mechanics on the service info website. I actually had a GM engineer ask me if we could unbolt the rack and pinion from the cradle of a 2002 (was new at the time) Cavalier, and drive it. If you have to think about it, think about it, and then remember that request came from an engineer.

@@Spike-sk7qlthat’s funny stuff right there, lol. I know I’d like beat some down my self lol.

​@@stevehicks8944several tests show helicoils are stronger. The only place time serts excel are where threads are used that will have bolts run in and out several times

In a lot of cases you're better off running a whole set of timeserts through these old blocks - it's often a better result than using the old block threads.

I agree in some cases. I revert to "If it isn't broken don't fix it". If the rebuild is a factory spec'd project I'd leave it alone. But yes, if the power output is going to be significantly increased the old threads may be the weak spot in the bottom end.

I used timeserts for broken bolts in the alloy swingarm on my motorcycle. Definitely stronger now than they were originally

That is the real FIX and linehone the block.

I fix others people’s foulups all the time. No good deed goes unpunished. Picture a shop the size of two Costcos. I use a milling machine, NOT a freaking drill press. I hold the part securely and locate the problem hole exactly. For a fastener I flatten the top and use a spot drill, then a left hand drill under the minor size of the thread. The left hand drill might loosen the fastener and back it out so I’m ready on the quill to let it happen. Then I try an “Easy out”. If that didn’t work, I interpolate out to the minor hole size feeding down manually ready for the remainder to come out. If it doesn’t, all that’s left is the helical thread that be picked, pealed or wiggled out. Taps are a bit more complicated and carbide can burned out but in all cases you got to be dead on and rigid. The worst thing is when some monkey tried and failed, further complicating or necessitating a Heilicoil or Keensert.

Good point. LH drill can remove the bolt by itself during the drilling, while RH can tighten the bolt even more. Choose what fits your needs.

They are the only game in TOWN today for that thread. Unless you make a special one.

Don't forget all HARD crap we can remover also and save the threads with our picks.

This! It works in the majority of cases.

YOU HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD YES - YES START WITH LEFT HAND DRILL I'VE DONE HUNDREDS 😊

Once I made a new thread for the timing chain idler sprocket on an aluminum head, no inserts but that final click of the torque wrench feels nice.

It does indeed. I redid an old Kawasaki bike and when I tightened down the head studs (special long oversize-thread bolts), I was swearing for the last 10Nm :D @@JavoCover

Thanks!

Much appreciated!

Have to remember I ONLY see the FAILED bolt extraction attempts. The successful ones never have to come to me lol! So my viewpoint may be skewed 😀

👍👍

This. This is stud/bolt removal 101. No reason not to do this.

Was wondering why this method was not tried.

Left hand drill bit works well for cases such as when the bolt head snapped off, and there is no real tension on the bolt threads. However, in my experience, it doesn't work well when the threads are gummed up by dirt, corrosion, or thread locker.

@@superbarnie How about when the bolt is stretched as in torqued? I've had shit for luck extracting or drilling anything out that's been snapped off.

​@@Guillotines_For_Globalists The bolt stretches because the threads are pulling the bolt down the threads while the bolt head is keeping the top part from going in any further, thereby stretching the bolt. However, once the head snaps off, then there is no longer tension on the bolt because the head isn't holding it anymore. If the broken bolt in the threads isn't turning with a small amount of force then it is because of friction in the threads. This could be because the threads are dirty or stuck or seized for whatever reason. In those cases it is very unlikely that a left hand drill bit will be able to exert enough torque to turn it out. Another method I've had success with is welding a nut or bolt to the broken fastener to be able to turn it out. The heat helps a lot to burn off any contaminants in the threads, and the expansion and contraction can break chemical bonds in the threads. Of course, this method is only application when the broken bolt is accessible with a welder. In the end, bolt extraction is a shit show and there is no guaranteed way to success. If all else fails, try to see if you find a broken drill/tap/bolt specialist with a EDM machine, they can often work miracles.

Thanks for watching!

the ARP studs will be more precise than factory; the register in the block determines alignment

@donwest5387 it is still recommended to line hone the block with fastener upgrades as well as connecting rods be checked and resized if needed. Of course, cracked style rods can't be done.

​@@donwest5387totally agree! No metal was removed from the cap or the block. Now, they might want to line hone the mains. In my opinion, I'd run it like it is.