Exactly.

makes so much sense now

Nawww... Look at the trophies, you can bet he means what he says and knows exactly what he wanted to say.

@@AndSheAndI LOL

the spl guys thinks a midbass need to have a lot of xmax to be good. well its freq response which determines this question..sq guys don`t care much about the xmax of a cone, while spl guys probably do

Yeah it’s deff not that one is better than the other. They all have their applications.

We can definitely do another one like this in the future

Did your speakers come in a set with a crossover or did you buy them separately?

You'll have to constantly asjust for each song no matter what.

@@casemods indeed. Music is not all recorded the same.

Then theres definitely something wrong with your cross over or CO-settings. When some recordings sound dull and dark and other sound bright. My old home speakers had this issue many years ago. I found the problem by isolating different parts like left speaker only and so on.. Problem was in the cross over of one of the speakers between mid and treble a resistor was broken. I reccon the same behaviour can happen if nothing is broken but some settings is not optimal.

In the pro audio world, a sub is often something that works from 30-40 hz and below. It really depends on the system itself. Some modern systems are really good at delivering deep bass without the use of an actual sub. Some of the current systems are crossed and named like this. High 20khz to 6khz or so. Mid 6khz to 200hz or so. Low 200hz to 70hz or so. Bass 70hz to about 30hz or so. It depends on system designs and what is used, but those are the limits at each end so to speak. When you see actual subs used, it is A, because your bass drivers roll off at a higher point than say about 40-45hz, or if you have a system or venue where sound below 30hz is needed. At the end of the day, actual subs play from around 40hz or so, but it depends. Many in the car audio world, and even some in home audio, let subs play from 60 or even 70hz, but a true subwoofer is usually meant to work between 40hz and 20hz or so. That got a bit long, but at least it provides some idea about what each thing is. And again, remember that there are several driver types that can share frequency range duties, but it's just not what they excel at.

Ya im planning a similar build. The 6.5" components are for the highs and "mid-range". Which are crossed from 100hz-20Khz. Then a midbass driver (8" sub or a 6.75 sub)... which will be crossed from 50hz-250hz.. Not to mention there will also be an actual sub will also be included and that will be crossed from 20hz-60hz.

That is impossible to answer. Each system is different and there are way too many parameters. What you need to do, is get an affordable measuring mic, and use REW or AudioControl's measuring mic and app with pink noise. Measure the low frequency speaker and then the midrange without any filters applied. What you will see is that each driver has a range where it will be relatively flat. Where the LF driver starts to roll off on the high pass side, is as high you can go with your crossover. At the other end of the spectrum, where the MF driver starts to roll off on the low pass side, shows you how low you can go. 6db below the "flat" part of the curve is basically the points at what either above or below the crossover point is possible. If you're looking for a great sounding SQ setup, what you should do, is to use the -6 db point of your MF driver to establish the crossover point. This will give you the LF driver a bit less "kick", but it will also integrate the best. This could for example be 60-65 hz depending on your system. If you are looking to really get everything banging and rattling, use the -6 db upper point of the LF driver as a point of reference. Note that if the LF driver stays linear above 110 hz or so, don't take it any higher as it will not sound good at all. Even such a high point can be tricky to integrate as LF driver placement becomes a lot more noticeable. In this case, your time alignment needs to be on point for this to work. Now here's what most end up with, which is basically the middle. Let's say the -6 db low roll off for your MF driver is at 65 hz and the LF driver is -6 at 100. Then the midway point between them will be 82.5 hz. Is that perfect? Who knows. You need to use your ears, but it's a good starting point. What many end up with, are two or three different DSP presets. One for SQ, one for all-round purposes, and one for all out SPL. Just remember that the gain structure in your DSP processor needs to be set for each preset, as each crossover point has its own gain setting in the DSP to keep the amps happy and retain the proper headroom. What ever you do, remember to trust your ears. If it sounds bad, it does not matter what a measuring tool shows you. Those measurements are guidelines, not absolutes.

It really depends where your midrange and midbass speakers are mounted. If you mount your midbass drivers in the doors and they’re Band passed too high you’ll have the lower range of the male vocals jump from the door to wherever your midrange speakers are mounted. Use a lower band pass that stops around 180 and you won’t have that problem or it will be reduced. Fine adjustments of crossovers and EQ will dial in your setup. These subjects have been discussed at length over at DIYMA. I stopped posting over there around 8 years ago but back then there was plenty of very active discussion that dealt with speaker placement and tuning at a competition level.

Mid bass would be 70 to 120

​@@Assimilator702I would cutoff at 150hz at most

4 ohms will hit harder due to less resistance. Lower ohms will always hit harder in a sub, midbass, and clear and crisp in mids. Just make sure your speaker configuration matches the amp so you get the most out of your speakers and amps.

Set the high pass filter on the amp

i agree a high pass filter would completely get rid of it

Your Amp is going into Protection? Sounds like you have more issues. Bass Blockers are for Tweeters, I’ve never seen one on a Mid before (could be wrong I suppose.) You are running these active I presume?

I agree with Len, if your amp is going into protect then something is legitimately wrong hence protect. To much gain/or low frequency would normally just cause distortion not trigger protect mode. I'd check the resistance (ohm ) loads per channel and temps to solve your protect issue. That said if it is actually from the low end signal you may be shorting the leads or coil by over driving lower quality speakers. To reduce bass it's old school these days but I still like running a 3 way active crossover to feed only the signals I want where I want them. Dsp is the more up to date but also more expensive option.

you should have filters on the amp for that reason... there is something more wrong for protect mode... id start with the ground wire... sounds like voltage issue to me... or as robert stated, check impedence per channel... 👍

Hertz sv200L is a midbass. Great speaker produced pretty good bass, just sold mine to go to euphoria expert 8 inch carbon midrange in my lids

​@corey wright how does the midbass compare? Assuming you are talking about the middle speaker in the video.

@@BushmasterM4A3 the middle speaker is the midrange. I have a set brand new for sale cheaper than you can buy anywhere else. Anyways the midrange is amazing. It can play from 51hz to 150hz. It will get down with bass and it’s loud at 99db.

@corey wright cool, might hit you up on them. Mine will be for a car audio build, and according to Crutchfield, I am limited in depth. The midrange will fit, but the midbass will not. I'm going to pop the door panels off and measure this weekend and see what I can fit with a little creativity.

Yes same type of theory applies. What determines the category each speaker falls into is the freq range it will play.

It depends on the other speakers in your system, but in general I'd recommend you cross those mids over at 85hz (give or take 5hz depending on room acoustics and subwoofer response), and 3khz if you have a tweeter. Generally you don't wanna cross a tweeter below 2khz, and 3khz is pretty standard . 4khz is fine but can be a bit high for some mids.

If your mids play clean and nice up above 4k and have a good placement, don't be afraid to try and cross them between 5k and 6k. Reason is that this will give the absolute best integration of voices if possible. That said, this is usually tricky in many installs as the speaker becomes more directional at those frequencies. But let's make it a lot more simple. What speakers do you have? It's hard to give advice without knowing what we're talking about. At least it helps a lot to be able to look up some off-axis measurements from the manufacture. They are not absolutes, but good guidelines for a start.

@@bailey2517 . looks like the other speakers are gonna be a Skar 18" single sub, and a pair of Pioneer tweeters. A 4 channel amp to run the mids and highs, and a class d 1 channel amp for the sub.

@@flyhouseoftruth470 oh so if it's for a vehicle system, I'd cross the sub at like 60 or 70hz. Depends on the box tuning and stuff, but generally you want to have the amp start rolling off above 60hz. For mids I'd say cross them at 3,000 to 4,000hz. Basically, look at the frequency response of the tweeters, and multiply it by 1.6. so if it's 2500hz - 20khz, you should cross the tweeter at 2500 x 1.6 = 4khz (for example)

@@flyhouseoftruth470 also, cords the mids higher than the sub, since you'll probably be turning the sub up a lot louder than mids, the sub will still play PLENTY of that 60hz-120hz range even if it rolls off at 60hz lol. And that mid bass can get annoying if it's too loud. I'd say cross mids at around 80 or 100 hz. Somewhere in that area. See what sounds best for you

Depending on the sub and its moving mass it may not be able to play as high as your hoping. You can try playing your mid lower. But I would not add another speaker to only cover that small range. I would change the mid or go to a midbass to replace the sub. (this also depends on the application)

@@insaneasylummotorsports5757 I am thinking I should have went with fullrange speakers in the doors. I had a couple 6.5 inch JL audio's in my last vehicle I should have kept. The F.S. was 114 HZ They worked perfect.

There are some out there but we do have a Mid Bass 6.5 if you want to check it out. insaneasylummotorsports.com/collections/subwoofers/products/insane-asylum-6-5-mid-bass

Nobody would be wise to buy their crap. Its 5x as much as leading name brands equipment. Rip off artists

@@d_breezy89 are you sure about that? This is leading "name brand" check out all the competitions and what they are running. who do you think is better that is 5X less money??

No, the ranges I am about to give you is not set in stone and Is more of a starting point for you to then tweak base on the FS and sensitivity of speakers and your preferences. it’s Sub Woofer(50 and below) , Mid Bass or what is generally referred to as Woofer could range from 50 to 800 hz, Midrange 200-7khz and tweeters 3khz to 22khz. A DSP SHINES in this area, where you could dial in your systemthe suit your listening preference

They are all DB Drive’s SQ line speakers which is branded as Euphoria. All speakers displayed in this video are Euphoria Xpert’s

Its out now. Carbon cone, 3" high temp voice coil.

Was thinking the same

Its a true midbass.

I would classify a woofer as being able to play much lower and not as high.

Come mass is a major factor in a drivers sensitivity. Cone mass lowers the fs but the byproduct is lower efficiency.

cone mass is absolutely a major part in determining sensitivity. Heavy cone will of course have a lower sensitivity. Can you make up for it in power handling? Possibly but if you have a light cone and a heavy cone with same voice coil and motor the lighted will be louder and you can not catch up with more power.

Cone mass is the single most important thing in relation to sensitivity. It defines the power needed to move the cone. The force needed to move X mass never changes. What happens when you stick that coil further into the gap, is that it draws more power. There is obviously a limit at when the speaker just stops working properly and get horribly inefficient, but that's when the coil sits too far out of the gap. There are physical limits as to how the coil can be designed depending on excursion, cone suspension geometry, mass, stiffness etc. If you shove a long coil far into that gap, you lose excursion because it will bottom out, and if you raise it up too far, it will jump the gap. If you make it short, you lose weight, gain sensitivity and can lower it into the gap, but you also lose power handling ability. Fact is that there are some pretty absolute parameters for voice coil placement and size in relation to what a driver is designed for. It all is dependent on one another, but when it comes to sensitivity, weight is king, and no matter what you do for power handling, weight comes with a penalty in relation to transients - and that's where all the fun is. The heavier the mass, the more difficult it is to make it change direction fast without causing flex etc.

Not really true. Surprisingly for how low they will play they have a very wide bandwidth. I pair the midbass with either the EXT1.5NH or the new EXT2NB.

@@insaneasylummotorsports5757 I'd say far from true. It all depends on what it is designed for. Would I cross an 8" above 7khz? Rarely, but a real midrange driver will have little issue playing to 6khz. Heck, there are some really good 10" mids that will easily hang on up to 6.5khz. That same driver however, will rarely be any good below 100 hz. Many true mids have an FZ in the 100-150 hz range, so they will simply roll off. It's a give and take, and why small two way systems are often crossed between 2.5 and 3.5khz. Does not matter if it's an 8" or 5". If it's designed to go into the midbass area, then the higher frequency range will suffer and the driver will start to beam up etc.

All a sales pitch.

@@filibertofonseca8083 so then you say that there is only mids and woofers? Why?

@@filibertofonseca8083 Really? I think you might want to think a bit more about the actual physics of loudspeaker drivers. And to say that that they are all midwoofers is pure nonsense. Not much "Woof" in a driver that has an FS of 85 or higher hz, is there. Quick story for you two "experts". The term "Woofer" and "Tweeter" is actually not the real technical term at all if you want to get into semantics. Those are terms people came up with around the late 50's and 60's. Do you know what mids used to be called? That's right, "Squawkers". They were given nicknames based off of the sound the frequency range they played by themselves made. If you want to be clever, you might want to look into what the ACTUAL technical terms are. HF driver, MF, driver, LMF driver, LF, driver and Sub bass driver. On occasion you will even see the term high mid tossed around. And there very much is a difference between mids, low mids and lows. Are there drivers that can pull double duty? Of course, but that usually comes with a sonic penalty somewhere. Now can anyone of you two clever heads guess what an FR driver is?

@@AB-80X Are you referring to me when you say you two? If so, not sure why your even here trying to make yourself look so smart. I agree with most of the things your saying but they way your coming across as a know it all and talking about "technical terms" and other nonsense is pointless. We are using the industry accepted terms for these drivers. What does it matter if they are the correct technical terms except that its a way for you to try and show everyone how smart you think you are. If you have something constructive and helpful to add by all means lets hear it. IF you just wanna throw around some "technical terms" that has nothing to do with the video, go troll somewhere else.

@@insaneasylummotorsports5757 No. Just Filberto. It was only after I posted I noticed that both the first and second comment was from the same.

Really? Let’s hear your explanation of bad info. Who are you?

@@insaneasylummotorsports5757 too many generalized statements. Carbon fiber cones don't mean heavier or less efficient. In fact, most carbon fiber cones weigh less than their counter parts. "Midbass" vs "true midbass" is bogus also. There's midbass and midrange. If someone didn't know anything about car audio, this would be even more confusing to them.

@@bartowflorida so you have actually measured the parameters of all three of these speakers that I am specifically talking about? These carbon fiber cones are heavier than the paper cones. If you run straight carbon fiber they tend to sound harsh. The added mass smoothes that response out. So again not a false statement or bad info.

@@insaneasylummotorsports5757 so, beyma carbon fiber sounds harsh? How about mmats or euphoria? You should’ve specified that you were talking about those specific mids on your table and not generalized statements…if this was supposed to be a teaching video

@@bartowflorida would figure you could see that I was talking about the speakers I had on the table and in my hands. Yes the BEYMAs are harsh without lots of tuning. When you do your own videos you can do them however you would like. I think most everyone on here that don’t want to just argue understands I’m talking about those speakers on the table.