That’s what sets sundown apart research and development that’s why I’m a sundown nut hugger and will only buy sundown because I can watch it get abused and know it’s gonna hang with my abuse !

I run 4 full range no tweeters lol loud and clear

Hopefully u doing good

@@Christian12291 thank you so much brother I really appreciate it man! Doing way better getting my weight back and 6 month scan coming up in April fingers crossed and trusting in God's plan brother. God bless and you and thank for checking up on me man!

@@rodolfosotelo5929 spoiler alert ⚠️ you already beat cancer

@@Rezbionic amen to that brother 💪 now we just have the 6 month scans which we graduated to from 3 month scans! God is good regardless my brother and better times will come for sure!

@@rodolfosotelo5929Aye man congrats thats huge. Lost a few to the big one and hearing you say this made me wanna throw you a party🎉🎉🎉

I agree with you, if you have a subwoofer I think the cheapest first speaker would do good filling in.

Same opinion

Thought the same

All day

I'm with you on that one the pro all the way

Would u guys pick 2 SKAR audio speakers and 2 sundown or all 4 sundown speakers? I have stock everything in my pickup and wanted a budget upgrade for the truck with new head unit. No subs, i live in town with faulty door lock. Want to upgrade soon

@@zapcodeknock4503all sundown. I did 2 6.5” lcmr for the front (dash) speakers and did 8” neo pro v3 for the back ( jeep wrangler soundbar). Also have 4 tweeters and a resilient sounds 10inch sub for the other frequencies?

Why are you even talking about bass when they're midrange drivers? And as far as I'm concerned the LCMR one is the only one even worth considering if you ignore the silly fictional specifications on the box.

If bass isn't something worth talking about in THIS video, the VEX is irrelevant seeing as how Derrick swapped settings to enhance where it shines...in the bass frequencies. I currently have a NeoPro 6.5 in each door and a BT-R1 in the dash off a SAX-125.4. IMO, you could run a damn good sound stage using the VEX for lowend, NeoPro for mid, and a tweet for highs. The LCMR seems more suitable for a higher quantity setup with a few tweets because it's already brighter. Just my opinion

@@ChrisHasbrook [Guess I have way too much free time again.] I'm sorry man but nothing you're saying even makes any sense to me. First of all the drivers in the video are pretty much all crap. You can tell that just by looking at them and by seeing the silly specs on the boxes, which like I already said are probably almost entirely fictional anyway. Unfortunately this is very common for car grade audio gear. The buyers typically know very little or nothing about audio gear and want to spend as little money as possible. The other reason is that it's impossible to get anything close to hi-fi quality in a car anyway because of the shape of the cabin. Now back to the topic of bass and everything. All of the drivers presented are supposedly (exclusively?) midrange drivers. It's mentioned over and over again. That means they're designed to play frequencies between ~500hz-5000hz (depends on who you ask). That's basically impossible given their size, they're 8 inches in diameter (or about 20cm). A driver of that size gets cone breakup (terrible sound quality) above around 1500hz and pretty much no sound above around 3000hz or so and that's just a physics thing that you can't overcome. Even if you get a tweeter with a low 2000hz crossover frequency (and I'm ignoring that car audio crossovers are very commonly cheap 1st order ones not 2nd order solutions) you're still going to get below average sound quality in the critical 1khz-2khz band even by car audio standards. Real midrange drivers are 3 to 5 inches for a damn good reason. Then there's the silly specs on box 1 that really amuse me because of oh so many reasons: Dual voice coil - What for? That's only useful for car subwoofers (if even that) and those are in no way drivers for a subwoofer. The surround isn't even rubber or maybe foam, the membranes probably have at best an 8th of an inch of travel. That's I think about 3.5mm for non Americans. Recommended frequency range 100hz-6khz - Ahahaha!!! Wait so they're mid-bass drivers now? I thought they were for the midrange band. Why does he keep calling them midranges then? Perhaps this is just a language thing. Most of us non car audio people call drivers by the name of the frequency band that they're supposedly good at reproducing. That's maybe about a 250hz-2500hz (crossover included) driver just by the looks of it. Then again who knows maybe car audio gear has already surpassed my wildest dreams and expectations. I highly doubt it but who knows. 100W RMS Power - Is that supposedly Max or Continuous? I'll bet my leg that's Max, it pretty much always is for car audio gear. So how much is continuous 50-60W? Who knows, guess we'll just have to guess then! And remember that's at 1khz, that's like an old telephone busy line tone. When you put bass into them they can maybe take 10-15W. He even mentioned that he had to use a "subsonic filter" setting on the amplifier, basically a low frequency high-pass filter to cut the bass going to them otherwise they distorted the sound a lot. What if you don't have that on your amplifier? Look any serious manufacturer would just be honest and say something like 50w Continuous Power Rating, Usable Frequency 250hz-3000hz but this is car audio so I guess that isn't to be expected here. 94db/W sensitivity - Well at least that's good. I knew they were car grade the second I saw that. The terrible materials and build quality were a pretty strong hint too. Now I tried looking up this driver online and this company that I've never even heard of to be completely honest with you and I couldn't find more information about this driver but I did find another (supposedly) higher quality one and I even found a response chart included. WOW! I know crazy stuff. Now the part that baffles me is the part where they show an average response of about 102db. How is that possible? That can't be at the standard TS value of 1W so are they showing response at max continuous power? What THD? Couldn't read any of the small text cause it was all blurry. Response fell of the cliff under 160hz though, as I would have expected. Who does that? Who shows response at high power? I could write for another hour just how silly this video and the products showcased are to me but I have to start wrapping it up. I just feel the need to point a couple of other things out though: Showcasing a driver's quality through a recording is impossible. What is he even recording with a phone or maybe some camcorder type thing? The microphones in those only pick up between maybe 100hz-3000hz. Then there's the matter of the drivers not being mounted on the correct enclosures or on a very wide baffle (big wooden board). You're just going to get cancellation at all sorts of frequencies because of anti-phase problems cause by the driver's rear pressure wave reflecting off of the table and around the room. The defence is that all the drivers are being affected and you can still do some kind of side by side comparison but that's not even true, they'd all have to be in the exact same position on the table for that, not side by side. The drivers are at different distances from the side walls so you're getting cancellation at different frequencies. Then he does the recording off-axis; meaning he doesn't put the microphone right in front of the drivers or above them in this case. Why? You always want to be on axis with any kind of measurement or recording. Now I suppose the defence would be that in your car you're going to be hearing some reflections of off-axis sound anyway so who cares. Well OK but is this video supposed to be about demonstrating which of those drivers has better off-axis sound reproduction cause it's clearly the cheap model and that one has the much wider sound band too so like I said in my initial post that's the only decent option to me. And at least it's cheap! That could be entirely wrong though, the other models could be way better if you listened to them at the right angle. On-axis reflections might reach you too in the car if you're in say the driver's seat. Here they're being attenuated by the high ceiling. This weird and incredibly flawed listening test is actually telling you almost nothing about the real sound of these drivers. Your man in the video at least seems to understand that what he's doing here is actually incredibly stupid but he then does it anyway... I could go on and on but look I'll just say one last thing. Why would anyone even want to buy something like this? Why wouldn't you just buy some old 4 ohm midrange drivers from eBay and stick them in your car? There are plenty of them out there from broken speakers. Typically people damage the bass drivers or maybe the twitter with an old defective amplifier. I'm guilty of the latter one too. Sometimes the capacitors in the crossovers go bad and people don't understand that you're supposed to replace them once in a while. They then try to get rid of their old (good quality) speakers. Just get some of those! It'll cost you maybe $25 for a pair of decent, perfectly usable, actual midrange drivers. Just use glue to mount them if you can't find some small screws and nuts. You can even make DIY masks out of some plastic plates and some mesh. Typically car drivers are nice because they have snap-in metal mesh masks and things like that and because of the high sensitivity. None of the drivers in the video seem to even have masks anyway. Just get some high sensitivity home audio grade drivers (typically 89-90db/W), a decent car amplifier and for bass you basically want a big bass tube in your trunk. Save your money for that, you'll be much better off IMHO. Anyway I GTG. [Guess I have way too much free time again.]

@@davidcobra1735 Are you comparing car audio to what, home audio? Why would you do that, even by your own words? IMO, the 1st 2 are midrange, VEX is mid bass. IMO, it wouldn't make much sense to use them in a large build as the woofers are doing what you would want the VEX's to do, lowend. Like I said, they would be best in a situation like Derrick has them or a build less focused on subs. Is the video truly showing the output of each? Obviously according to the author, no. But you can clearly tell a difference between all 3 and come to your own conclusions. If you hate car audio gear, which it clearly sounds like you do, why are you watching a video of it? Bass tube? Like from Circuit City lol? NONE of these are SQ whatsoever, never advertised as such either. PRO AUDIO, meaning loud is 1st priority. You really sound like you're overthinking all with conflating a bunch of theories together making a judgement that's has nothing to do with the video, the product, or the hobby of car audio. I'm going to assume you simply hate loud music, and are purely a SQ guy? Just a lot of hate for something this small

I was thinking the exact same thing. Looks pretty similar to the SD3

all of these need tweeters. theyre midrange drivers. you would never want to have a system with only midrange and no tweeter for the highs.

@@SbassLaserwhat tweeters would you recommend?

Dont think the vex will fit in the doors with that depth

Sia-3500d powering four vex-8"s and an sdx-100.4 powering four bt-tweeters

Out of curiosity. What is the frequency response of the neo pro? I’m thinking of running a pair of 6.5 and 8 in my front doors.

@@pandabear7894 I would not go any lower than 80hz on the 6.5. I’m using two 6.5 as a center channel in my theater. They sound incredible and they play louder than any center channel speaker I own so I would say the sensitivity has to be around 90 or higher.

Would be great to do these tests with the drivers tilted on axis i mic and camera. 2 benefits. Less midbass cancellation and flatter on axis response. Might need to be as valid because most door speakers are played extremely far off axis.

Especially for 40 bucks!

What happen? There's beef with D4S?...

Well I seen the 8 inch for 50 bucks too. But kinda fishy if they're deleting links 🤔.

Apex for 48.39 8 inch lcmr

Use a nice 4-ch amp and active crossovers

@@UnofficialAudio talking to drew about it😂 my tahoe really doesnt have much room left but think this is the route ill go for my s10 build

Would you personally prefer a 6x9 over 6.5 every time if space was no problem