I would be careful with using a bolt that has a shank that's the exact size of your tabs. Especially since the tabs will deform some when tightening. If you run out of threads your torque wrench will click off but the joint isn't necessary tight. The bolt sees a relatively low load because the bolt is tight(Joint stiffness ratio). If the bolt isn't able to provide enough preload to the inner sleeve then the bolt will see more load than it should. This is why you see bolt holes in tabs get egg shaped because the bolt wasn't tight enough. With that said if you use enough washers to make sure the nut has threads to grab on to then you are golden.

Thank you for never assuming that your audience knows what the heck they’re doing. And, more to the point, for never adopting a patronizing attitude when you set things straight. Your build videos have been and continue to be tremendously helpful. Thanks for keeping up the standards and the humanity.

Great information, thank you. The difference between these and OEM is on an OEM bushing the rubber is bonded to both the inner and outer barrel. The only movement is the flex of the rubber between the inner and outer metal barrels. That's why when changing things like control arms, you don't torque them up until they are on the ground (or ramps) under their own weight. That way, you are tightening them up in a position in the middle of the suspension's range of motion: In full compression they twist one way, in full droop, they twist the other way. If you tightened them up fully while unladen in the air at full droop, they would be much more likely to tear at full compression because now you are asking the rubber to twist in one direction to cover the full range of the suspension's motion. the take-away: Tighten them while on the ground or they will tear quickly.

What a fantastic video. No excess blabbering but straight to the point and everything presented in an easily understandable fashion. Subscribed immediately, just starting on the first project car where I have to rebuild the entire suspension and this kind of info is priceless. Thanks you!

Good video. I have fixed a few 'death wobble' trucks just by installing longer sleeves that lock down when the bolts are torqued. It's amazing how little movement in suspension will create such a large issue

Dude! Fantastic video! I've replaced the suspension bushings on my whole truck myself, but I never before fully understood how the parts function as a set. I am so grateful for this video. You are an excellent teacher.

Since terminology is important, the fitting where grease is introduced is called a hydraulic grease fitting😊. But everyone calls it a zero fitting. But this video is very well made, thank you.

Very informative videos. I've done this for years and I know the tolerances need to be damn near perfect when dealing with rod ends and bushings. But, I like to see someone else out there that knows what they are doing also. Good videos man. Keep up the good teaching on all you do.

That was a really good video! I watched all 6 minutes and 52 seconds, thank you for making everything all nice and concise :D

More than I ever expected to learn in my lifetime when it comes to bushings. Enjoyed it for sure.

Wow! So cool to hear you reference Max. He explained how an engine worked in the back of class when we were in high school. Awesome guy.

Just stumbled across the channel. Finally, somebody is making videos of the small details everyone else's leaves out that are so important. Major companies instructional videos always leave this out. They just say insert and tighten to spec without going into How it's supposed to function with the part that was just installed

I’ll classify this as one of the best YT vids out there. Actually very informative to people who don’t know, but also informs the people who THINK they know of proper techniques for safety and durability. Bravo bro

Yessss! Now that was a great and well articulated run down of suspension bushings and components. Even if you’re not fabricating and all you’re doing is installing bolt on components like mid or long travel kits this is something you should be aware of. Make sure the manufacturer is giving you quality parts

Great video. Anytime you can give some knowledge about fabrication I am always interested. Your presentation style and ability to explain concepts in the simplest way make for great content. I don't feel talked down to or requiring my own shop to accomplish any task you present.

This was an excellent video. Explaining not only what to do, but what not to do and why in an easy to understand manner without sounding patronizing. As others have said, that can be a tricky balance to find when teaching. Nicely done.

Best teacher on the web man!!

What a nice job of describing the correct way to mount a bushing assembly! The bushings I’m using specify white lithium grease in case anyone didn’t get that information with their bushings. I use drum brake bearing grease(stringy stiff grease) on the bolts and, a bit of red loctite in the nuts to make sure they stay put.

Thank you. I was worried I was doing them wrong but I’ve been doing them exactly that way. Also just noticed the Keep Moving Forward sign very awesome.

Excellent and informative videos. Very exciting channel to find! Thanks for not making things longer than necessary to hit the 10 minute-mark!

Escellent video again. You keep addressing things that I am currently dealing with. Love it.

Yes, I am a through bolt rust prevention greaser. Thanks. Great video to help everyone understand bushings, and how important it is to have them correctly built, and installed.

I like how at first you asked what's wrong. I didn't know what I was looking at, but as you went through it, I could start seeing what was wrong. It was so helpful!

This is a spot on video! Everything he said is correct. I’m talking as a tool&die maker with 50+ years experience. Really well done! Thank you!

Exactly why I follow and watch your content, I don't want to just know what works, BUT WHY IT WORKS. As always, super informative, intelligently simple and concise. A++

A couple of additional comments - when a ZERK grease point is used, make sure the sleeve is welded in a position where the nipple is accessable with the suspension member fitted to the vehicle - sometimes you can correct this with a 90 or 135 fitting, but not always. If the fastener uses a castellated nut which takes a split pin, you can usually replace it with a stainless steel "R" clip - they won't rust in place and are easily removed, and they're re-useable. Depending on the specific application, it may be wise to use a longer bolt than actually required and drill the end, after the retaining nut, for an "R" clip - it doesn't often happen, but if for some reason the nut loosens, the clip will prevent it falling completely off and so prevent the bolt backing out. If you have access, you can do the same thing with bolts into captive nuts. Something I got from Justin* is to turn up some alloy spacers that are a close fit to the sleeves and use them instead of the 'plastic' insert when tacking parts together - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l693h7GGm86rYoU.html *He also has a lot of sound advice to compliment this gentleman's advice - www.youtube.com/@TheFabricatorSeries/featured

So nice to have a direct and to-the-point Instruction video. Great Editing Thank you

This probably only applies to the after-market polyurethane bushings. Most OEM bushings are basically melted rubber that is stuck to both the inner and outer sleeves. Then it becomes important to tighten these bushings with the control arm at rest or “normal ride height” or the bushing will be twisted when the vehicle is on the ground.

I've never really built a full suspension but I have converted several different types to poly. All this seems very obvious to me but I guess I was learning on things that were pre-engineered. Thanks for the tip on where to get ends.

Awsome clear and concise video. Thank you! I've never built a suspension, but I plan on building jeep wrangler just with a frame and a tub

This was so helpful and informative and your attitude was great. Definitely checking out more of your channel

Absolutely enjoy it when the smart people are annoyed.🤣✌😁

Yes your mostly correct. Engineering standards generally ask for no more and no less than 3 threads protruding after the assembly. So if you need to trim, use that as a guide!

I learn a lot watching your videos. Your editing dept. gets an A+ thank you

Excellent educational vid. After seeing your video I immediately can see what is wrong with the installation before your vid. Great job!

Some stock rubber bushings are fused to both sleeves and you can expect a short service life followed by a rear steering wobbling nightmare unless you make a provision for the bushing to pivot. A bronze sleeve between the bolt and slightly opened inner sleeve is a great mod when feasible. Early polyurethane bushings had a tendency on rare occasions to squeak but only while driving unless you ignored their instructions for no lubricant.

Best not to use polyurethane where you can avoid it, as it tends to transmit a lot more of the high frequency stuff, especially because sizing is usually not done well (ie; the intaller doesn't know what the forces are or the range of compliance needed). This is especially true of engine mounts, where lack of compliance can kill alternators etc. Compliance problems are usually worst around 4 bar linkages, with triangulated 4 bars needing lots of compliance to work... Normally it's better to go for parallel 4 bars plus a watts link, it gives better control, less compliance interference with suspension behaviours etc and is simpler to calculate loads. Similarly, the type of bushing you're demonstrating here has very little lateral bearing capacity, it only bears on the edges of the steel tubes, so lateral loads are a big no no and should be oriented purpendicular to the link tube (unlike the triangulated 4 bar demonstrated). Finally, bolted joints are considered to be failed when they slip, so the end of thread is (or should be) totally irrelevant, if it fails it's because it's slipped and failed under impact loads, resultant from the post failure movement. Size bolts so you've got at least one fully formed thread on the unloaded side of the bolted joint, but no other aspect is critical unless you're engaging onto the unformed threads of the shank, which WILL result in premature failure. The only parts involved in the joint behaviour should be the inner tube, clamped between the two flanges and the bolt it's self. The friction between the outer flanges and the tube are the only forces through which the joint should operate.

I keep coming back to this video. It's super helpful. I'm thinking of making a swing arm tire carrier that bolts to the back wall of my trailer in 2 places and was debating going this route instead of a spindle on the bumper. I like this idea of using these bushings as a hinge instead but not sure if it would be too tight or hard to move. Obviously it would be stiffer than a spindle but maybe a gas strut would help with that.

Great simple terms to convey an understanding of this. One short video and you got yourself another subscriber.

Great information! I'm making lower shock mounts that can twist for an old Dodge truck. Essentially, you just confirmed my design. Thanks!

Full of good info. Just found your channel yesterday and instantly subbed. Keep it up!

Thanks for this information I have a old 85 cavalier with a rusted up subframe. A arm is alright. But had a buddy do some welding on it. I think I should take it back off and redo it. Thanks again

Another of the most useful videos I've ever seen, and the other one was your u-joint video. AMAZINGLY GOOD content!!

Man, this episode was a tight and a joy to watch and learn. Thanks for all the details 👍👍😎👍👍

Thank you once again Aaron. Well explained. Best channel I follow by far.

Thank you! This is exactly what i needed to find tonight as im trying to fix a super duty traction bar that isnt available from the manufacturer anymore and the aftermarket isnt built correctly... 👍

Excellent description and detail. I’ve never even worked on a cars suspension, and I liked this.

I really appreciate your information and explanation, thanks for this video help a lot was braking my head on where to purchase this for my hardbody on bags

Fun and informative video. I have picked up so much knowledge of of you channel highly recommend and love how you don't drown on and make thing fun. Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next one. Ps I love how it when you say the sizes you use on your materials as it hard for me to picture with out this.

This kind of teaching is super valuable. Awesome work.

Good Stuff! I watched it twice to make sure I got it. Thanks for sharing your expertise MC! Cheers from Motown.

I'm not expecting to be fabricating suspension components any time soon but this is just excellent automotive general knowledge regardless, along with a tonne more posted by experienced and knowledgeable folks in the comments. Great stuff, instant sub!

Working on this kinda stuff I always wondered about these questions. Thanks for making a video answering them! Professional help is hard to find on the internet haha

FINALLY, a person who KNOWS how to measure a BOLT. Fat too many mechanics tend to think the HEAD size is the size of the bolt and they usually get all bent out of shape when they ask for a 1/2" bolt when they are really after a 5/16" one.

this is a vid every mini trucker needs to watch and some need to watch twice hahah . good work sir !

All necessary information in a short video. Great stuff 👍

Good to know. I've been working on/building vehicles for forty plus years and no one bothered to tell me this. Thanks.

I am constantly trying to learn. I may never use this but, excellent information and video!

Thank you for pre-empting my "But of course I grease the bolts, because I want to be able to get them back out again some day" comment. :D You're the bomb, dude. :D

Just found this video randomly, I automatically subscribed after watching.

Thanks for sharing your veteran experience. That was some great info 😎👍

Outstanding video as always. Very good information and easy to understand. Thank you.

I came across this via the algorithim and just wow I learned so much in so little time. Now I feel like taking a second look at my suspension. I appreciate you making this video! Can you make another on asking your boss for another 1 month break? lol

Good on you thanks , working with suspension specialist yrs ago ,he would soak bolts in diesal before installing,and every one had hole after nut for split pin ,a fair amount of the work end up on race track ,when I asked about pins he said,it's the 2 dollar piece of mind factor

Thanks for sharing. for explaining every detail . I like the way those tab's can be maid.

It may sound inappropriate for some but… you’re like a god for me when it comes to this area of expertise. Amen! …and thank you, yet again!

Wow, dude that was awesomely put together well. Great Info!

Wonderful, simple, concise information. Thanks!

Hey ManKandy, You are the Man!! This is Exactly what I was looking for!! All the details to choose the right bushing, where to get it and how to make sure it’s installed correctly. I assume the tabs are 3/16 thick for a 50’s large car 4 link? Super Thanks 🙏 for all your videos, unbelievably helpful and so appreciated!!

This was a great video! As for greasing the bolts, you are on the spot, makes no difference in operation but I always choose to grease the bolts when I assemble for corrosion protection. When it goes to engine mounts etc, especially in bikes , no seized bolts!

Good information, great non patronizing way of laying it. Earned one sub. Thanks!

Great video, very direct and to the point. Lots of knowledge here 👍🏻

Great attitude and great advice. I like your comment responses too. Well done sir.

Excellent Advice! Keep up the wonderful work!

First vid i have ever seen of you and your channel. I subscribed!

This guy is the man. Wow. Earned a subscriber

This was some education information. I'm about to start working on a set of tubular link arms and control arms for a project ttruck and although it seems like simple concepts I definitely learned a little so I appreciate it!

Thank you for schooling me on this subject

Your 100% correct!! I've done this enough to know your spot on!

Great info! I’ve learned a lot since subscribing to Garage Fab!!

Love the straight to the point info. Great work

Thank you for sharing your years of experience for free

Finally someone explains it. This topic has driven me crazy dealing with 4x4's, low riders, etc. It's always fooked.

Yup thats exactly how i been doing them i use grade 8 black bolt with crimp nuts like factory nuts notice the lock washer will spread every once an awhile this is a great video for guys doing at home this video can save lives cuz suspension failure is critical

This video is so expertly done I am jealous

Outstanding! Appreciate you sharing the knowledge! Good Man!

As always, very important and useful information!

Like the way you add the 'why' behind the what to do and not to do.

Mint vid 👌. Clear~ Concise ~informative 👍

Thanks for the knowledge brother!.

Beautifully explained, thanks

Explained very well I’ve run into that myself I’ve been working on cars for 40 years and working on peoples mistakes

Hiya Kiora, Great video, thanks for sharing

Love the video, learn something new today. Subscribed 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼

Great job on the video. I didn't know that you had to use a certain kind of grease on polyurethane. Thanks!

Good info brother. Things to keep in mind for future projects. 👍

Another nice quick hitter. Good info for all.

Thanks for the information, I had to change the rear end in my Nissan Pathfinder because I was hit in the side right on the rear wheel and it bent the rear housing. When I tightened the bushings the nuts were self locking so I wasn't sure if the inner sleeve rotated around the bolt or not. I decided to go ahead and tighten the bolts since they were tight when I removed them. Now that I know that the bushing rotates around the inner sleeve I know I did it correctly.

I just learned some more useable info, so thanks for the cool video. 👍

Great video. Threads will also wallow out the hole in the tab faster then the bolt shank. thanks!