LoL best advice in a comment I’ve seen in a while r/t pre revolutionary war homes. The historical allure vanishes in a hurry once you realize what you’ve gotten yourself into 🤑!

This is a must, especially because they are selling MDF door jambs these days (I hate them) and the door hinges will pull out in VERY short time. MDF is total garbage for door jambs and I try to avoid it at all costs, but some clients 'go cheap' and that's what I'm given to deal with. Always add extra long screws so at least you are anchored in the stud, not the MDF.

@@brucewilliamsstudio4932 The problem I had is that the cheap 3/4 inch screws pulled clean out of the door side (the jam side was fine). I couldn't even use longer screws because there was no more wood in the door. Just air and foam! What trash.

@@politics4816 Agreed, some doors are just trash, all in the name of 'cheaper' which translates into 'garbage'.

Or you can screw behind hinge so nobody can remove it if they need to take door off to paint or something like that

Thanks Joe, I appreciate you checking out the video!

Me too excellent work

You ever have a painter take the hinges off and screw up the door? Ugg

Yep. Or buy a laser which is much faster at checking the flooring and rough framing. I also like to set my laser up on the hinge side and use a framing square against the header of the door to ensure that it is square and the n shim both sides of the 2x4 so the door sits square in its opening.

Thank you Funny Carpenter. I have two poorly framed door openings. I plan to check out Funny Carpenter's other videos. After that, I'm going to make a dimensioned sketch of the first door opening and then figure out of the rough door frame is correctly tied to the framing of the house. Look at each frame corner. Solve the problem of getting the rough door frame rigid. If one can get each rough door frame vertical in both dimensions vertical to the wall and vertical to the door edge and well secured then you are ready to hang the door. I grew up in a machine shop and the rule of thumb there was "Do a sketch or you will have to do it twice."

YES!!! What about when the framing is made of twisted and warped 2x4s? I've had cases where it took 2 or 3 shims all with the angle on the same side to compensate for twisted framing. But I do commend "The Funny Carpenter" for mentioning things like how the bottom plate make stick out further than the vertical framing members...

Thank u

Thanks Eli, Thanks for checking out the vid and best wishes on the next door!

I used hangers Very fast and perfect

Nice, I will have to install my first door here soon as well (30X80) for a basement utility closet, but don't see it taking more than an hour since it'll be a pre-hung door, such as in this video. I also installed all the framing so I know everything will be level.

That’s great!

Well this made my day🍻cheers and thanks for the support!

Good to hear buddy!

Always looking to improve is a great mindset for all types of success. 🍻

Wow, that’s appreciated! Thanks for the support:)

Thanks Pete, yes for me level is just a catch all term:)

terrible idea.

Totally agree! For cabinet install the multi tool is magic!

Ya those things come in handy

I usually put judge side tight if Jack is plum an enough room for casing

@@seanmayo206 those are certainly all words... 🤔

@@not-a-raccoon Funny,, When I was In Australia,, I really had to struggle to listen as to what the heck this oddly version of English was trying to say at times. Then ordering food at restaurant,, might want to really pay attention. Or just point at menu... lol. Cheers

Ya Buddy🍻

I appreciate that!

Big difference isn't there!

Thanks buddy🍻cheers

You do know the ins and outs of hanging a door. Great job! Keep it up!

Could be a whole sermon just on this comment. Amazing how much doors move

Best wishes on your install

Wow, thanks!

No need for a long level you only need to level where your upper and lower shims are...usually 72" off the ground so a 60" would even work. A lot of the time I won't even level the shims. Doors look better if they follow a wall that is out of plumb rather than your casing looking crooked just so you can say "I leveled it"

Or Save yrself some money and tape your 2 ft level to a metal straightedge

Thanks mate🍻

Excellent points

Yes it can🍻

His process is actually better used on exterior or heavy doors ..... depending on your situation there are several ways to hang a door , but this video is actually better served for "heavy doors" and is overkill for lightweight hollow core interior doors ..... However , on an exterior door with a threshold , you have to account for the threshold and may have to shim under it , and always caulk under it , if you want the door perfectly plumb ..... you might get lucky and it sits perfectly on the concrete (or whatever flooring) and all is well , no shims needed under ..... It usually works out okay like that but sometimes the concrete is a bit off ..... always put some caulking under the threshold and really once the door is in , you can add shims and screws to the sides , basically just pop it in the hole and go from there adjusting and shimming .... best to have two people OR put a block of wood on one side to keep the door from falling out or in while you work ...... someone or something needs to be on the opposite side while you work on the door so it doesn't fall out .... person , block of wood , whatever ..... I'd just put the door in THEN add shims as needed

@@shure46 Hey thanks for the detailed response. Yup, these doors are solid ash so they are very heavy…2 person job for sure. I’ve seen a door install a few times. I’ve watched countless videos. Looks straightforward enough but w my luck I’ll get the existing door out and will run into “some” issue and will end up with a huge hole in my house and a pissed wife! 😣

/\ what he said. If the shims aren’t close to even on both sides, the frame will have room to move without the supportive backing. The uneven void will cause the frame to warp ever so slightly over time.

This is because you aren't nailing in the center of the shim. You are nailing above it or below it and it pulls the jam in or out above the shimmed area. You can fix this by hammering below or above the shim on the jam, but is best to nail where your shim is touch. If it is still crooked you can just shoot a nail through the jam without shimming it then use your hammer to pull or push the jam to where u want it.

100%