The only objective grading scale

and that's a fact

This is getting old. Fast.

@@alvaroe7678 You might be right.

😅

He struggled pretty hard on Es Pontas recently, also sleepwalker. He should be onsighting 9a's to send 9c so quickly, but I think his best was an 8c+ in 2016. The data doesn't suggest he's on a new level by any means. He's one of the strongest out there for sure, don't get me wrong. But it seemed like he was in peak form when he slaughtered the La Capella wall right after the Olympics. B.I.G. looked like a struggle for him. If he wants to prove something he should do a quick repeat Silence or onsight any 9a+ IMO.

@@chazottNa, La Capella: Adam: 9 days, Megos: 6 days, Schubert: 4 tries Doing 9b faster than anyone in history is more than enough to propose 9c, and the data definitely does suggest that he's on a new level. Also onsighting skill doesn't have that strong of a carryover to projecting stuff, so it shouldn't be used as a predictive metric here. Seb's onsights are way worse than Ondra's, however he has more hard sends than Ondra.

@@La0bouchere La Capella is 9a+ until the recent break, long after Schubert's ascent. Ondra flashed 9a+. And yes, I agree that onsighting is only a good indicator for certain climbers, but Jakob is one of them. This was his first project in his own words, nothing like the experience of Seb or Stefano or Martin Keller. And I think you need to read Ondra's tick list again, it's by far the most impressive in history.

I completely agree with chazott, Jacob has never looked as strong as Ondra, Stephano or Megos. Nor does he have the ticks they have either. I think the grade will definitely come down. Ondra is just playing it cool atm waiting for someone else to downgrade it trying not to upset Jacob.

I think if you'll find if you turn the letters upside down, apply the 'Caeser Shift', and play the recording backwards on a 1922 Collora Gramphone, it should play something in the region of 'Jakob, I'm coming to get you, lots of love, Stefano'

No

Totally agreed. The current "rule" seems to be: If you've climbed 9b+ before and you're in absolute world class form and it's your hardest route yet, you propose 9c. Sounds fair to me. Time will tell if these grades stand, so far none of the 9cs have been repeated.

@@chabum81 good call! Which 9c do you think will get repeated first?

@@augustclimbingsilence

@@Miles26545 I hope Stefano can pull it off!!

I can't grade a route I haven't climbed. But I can check someone's reasoning for consistency and logic. Jakob's reasoning is not in line with what those know who have seen all live attempts: When he sent, he got cold conditions, and the sloper before the crux quite dry. Same on the attempt before. He told into the camera that he could rest on the hold when it's like this, which he couldn't do before. He rested there on the send for 30 secs, 3 shakes each arm I think. This looked very much like the game changer for success. When falling at/after the crux, he estimated the route 9C (he told into the camera once, after a fall!) which should be fine, who am I to disagree? But as a matter of fact he found a new cold-condition-new/longer-rest-beta, which lead to success, I mean that's what he said in one of earlier videos. This new beta makes the route easier, there can not be any doubt about that, I mean that's what a beta is for. This doesn't mean it's not 9C.. again, what do I know? But it's inconsistent that his reasoning takes into account his falls/problems before finding the new beta, but then ignores it when he puts out such a bold and in some ways surprising statement.

Yeah whaaaat?!

I'd say they're often made to be consistent with the rest of the route, unless you're just trying to trash the route

Well, he indeed made a good point. Maybe she is just surprised because she thinks she wouldn’t have thought about it. Idk! Anyway, the point was good but the tides in the Mediterranean are very small (~0,5m), barely noticeable, since it’s mostly surrounded by land and almost not affected by the tides of the ocean.

🤣🤣🤣

I think Silence is just very very specific climb that really fits Adam.

+adam didnt top big

As someone who has climbed V4 I am an authority on this subject. Allow me to offer my analysis: Read more...

Actually Schubert climbed ""only"" 1 confirmed 9b+ (perfecto mundo) - he himself downgraded king capella to 9b (to be fair, he downgrades quite a lot of hard routes he climbs😂)

@@gba.87 fair enough haha but this does mean that he knows the grade and he obviously thought it was a step up.. maybe Stefano needs to climb it for a second opinion. Can you see my thinking tho? Lol

@@sirsendalot yes, sure! Actually if you look at Jakob's history of downgrades you can easily see that he normally finds stuff to be easy (i.e. he's super strong), so if he struggled on BIG while probably being in the best shape of his life that obviously means the route is pretty hard. It would be super cool if he now moved to DNA, which he tried last year, to have a fresh comparison!

@@gba.87 yeah sure that's got to mean somthing. I think ondra needs to send it see what he would say!! If jakob went back to DNA and sent it that would be awesome 👀 tag him gaga

@@sirsendalot I don't think Silence could be 9c+, since it took Adam only a few more weeks than LDD. Grading is a range, and within a single grade the hardest route will still be almost a full grade harder than the easiest. If anything is 9c+ it's DNA though. The difference between that and Seb's 9b+ sends is way larger than Silence and Adam's 9b+ sends

Good point 😉

thank you!! this is the way its been done for decades, until insta...

there is DNA by Seb Bouin too I think

Seb Bouin has the second one, it's called DNA

DNA

I mean, Adam literally said "routes should be graded under perfect conditions" and "9a+ into soft 8a+ with some rest in between might not sound like a 9c to me" So I understand that Ondra doesn't really agree with the grade, but he is not going to openly say it I guess

@@Drulynx this is what he said "All things considered, I support Jakob's 9c proposition. The only other possible solution is a slash grade. However, I think this amazing route deserves a nice grade, too" and considering he didnt even do it, his opinion means as much as any other 9b+ climber.

@@SCOclimbing That's a fair point

Still excalibur stands as first 9b+ in italy and fa by stefano

@@polgonzalezsierras4417 Italy's first 9b+ was formerly Erebor, now 9b

Well, you're wrong.

Or am I? @@masterpropper2485

Kneepads are here to stay 😉

Like a wise man once said: "It's not a hard route, just hard to climb!"

they do it for the clicks.

it's not easy watching

its just hugos dry wit and ascorbic style, it's very English so if you are not from here or its not your primary language I can understand why it may seem hostile.

@@mindblown42069this! Too subtle obviously

just you

I think, perhaps like myself, he is surprised at the nonsense that isn't funny and just keeps coming. She's like watching a gardener report on athletics or a bricklayer report on baking. Both possible, but unlikely to be chosen in place of an expert. She seems like a good sort regardless. Hugh was like that with Matt when he started. Matt clearly knew little about climbing, including famous climbers and areas etc. Hugh often gave that look of, "how can you not know that, reporting on a climbing show?"

This is perhaps the first time the kardashians have been mentioned in a Climbing Daily comments section, and if it was on last weeks show, for sure it would have been comment of the week 👏