If you're going to do custom gauges at least make the numbers level, it looks so cheap to have it just tilted over

They literally said it was a nod to old race cars

Putting redline centered makes it easier to see when racing....

@@brodyhanna7443 did old race cars have numbers sideways too?

@@andrewg2618 no.

though the same.. i like your miata too

Your K24Z3 is the way to go for a miata, it's my goal!!!

I’d like to know that’s clean

Get a second gen, its more or less the same car but better in all aspects, cheaper and more available.

Get whatever you want bro. I got a 91 and fell in love at first test drive.

You really cant go wrong with any gen honestly. Just watch out for rust and get one that was properly maintained and you'll have a great time no matter what gen.

Doesn't matter if it's a 1.6 or a 1.8. They are all slow and have their own issues. Just buy whatever you can afford, it will still be fun around corners.

I had a turbo widebody Miata check it out on my channel you'll love it man

Mine were gone a decade ago.

The color is a wrap. 3M Cosmic Blue.

@@FlyinMiataVideo Wasn't expecting a reply from you guys! Thank you very much, you guys make kick-ass stuff.

Kswap is way better than a turbo kit

@@Pube83 honestly, you're right, but this was back in 2006 and to my knowledge k swaps weren't super common back then.

@@Pube83 Kswap isn't Mazda though (DUH). As NA's start to get older and more valuable and rarer... My Desire is to create an NA that Appears Bone stock and keeps as much Stock parts as Possible. The FM Kit , While not stock is so common as to be "Period Correct" . So No Swaps. This blue Car is my Goal. It is perfection.

My advice would be second hand parts as much as possible. Good condition second hand quality parts are always a better option than brand new Chinese eBay parts.

@@magnetic0314 I'd rather not do second hand, I know what I'm looking for parts wise and I'll rebuild internals on turbo before installing it, secondhand means it's beaten on and prone to fail

If you want more than 15,000 miles out of your turbo I wouldn't. For track and fun eBay craps fine, if you want a halfway dependable car definitely don't.

@@hendersonwilliamk did you not see my other comment, I'm rebuilding the turbo w stronger internals before installing

@@qwertyobsjcj it's not just the internals the tolerances are garbage it'll probably have issues regardless. Your benefit you just won't send bits through your engines internals.

For 10k you can buy or build a missile Miata.

K-swap kit is what? $4k. K24a2 is $800. Add a new oil pump and other goodies, blah, blah, you're looking at $6-7k for a k that does 220 wheel with Honda reliability. Not to mention K's are the best 4 cylinders ever made and have a HUGE aftermarket and can handle 500whp boosted on a stock block. Now someone just needs to knockoff the ridiculously overpriced kswap kit and sell it for $2k.

Belongs to a staff member, it needed some repair work. Nothing too exciting :)

RF is probably your best bet if you have the money but NB seems fine i’m 5”10 and it is not too cramped especially if you were to put some bucket seats or lotus elise seats that sit lower than the oem ones. Mind you I’ve never driven an NA but ive seen some 6’4 guys that fit kinda but others that find it too cramped

Imo, I'd recommend Megasquirt at that power level. Drivability depends on what turbo you get :)

@John Daley I'm 6'5" I did all the mods to fit, it was okay, but not practical for me :(

@John Daley You think 6'2ish could fit? My friend is importing a Jdm roadster I might buy from him.

@@RCXDerp you can do a foamectimy to the seat, bend the brake handle (not required for RHD), go to a smaller steering wheel, remove the dead pedal, remove the door handle and install a strap, you can modify the pedals if you can weld, and I even took a hammer to the parcel shelf to gain a few more clicks of travel out of the seat back. In the end I did fit marginally, but sort of in the "bear riding a tricycle" category... at 6'2" its manageable if you do the above listed mods

There are a lot of trim rings that are fairly thick, these ones in particular are quite a bit thinner and harder to find. But they match the rest of the car better so they're worth it. Look for didotuning on eBay.

Iirc they do installs. Or did?

No tune necessary unless you want all the horses (then you need a mega squirt or other aftermarket ECU) I have the voodoo 2 kit on my 1.6: it came with their voodoo box which is basically a “piggy back ECU” (I think is how they describe it). You splice 2-4 wires (depending on the year) from the voodoo box into your ECU wires, I believe it’s the fuel injector signal wires. The voodoo takes input from a boost pressure line and, if my understanding is correct, basically sends signal to give all the fuel to override when the stock ECU would be confused when under boost. This lets the stock ECU handle most all of the functions as intended by Mazda but gives you more fuel when needed under boost. They do have you dial back the timing a bit from 10° to 4-6° which harms cold start idle in my 1.6. But once warm it’s almost just like stock until you hit boost pressure (slightly less low RPM torque due to pulling back the timing). Under boost it’s good smooth power. If you ease up on the throttle right as it starts making boost sometimes it’s a little jumpy, but staying under or blasting through that transition is super smooth. (This is my experience with my 1.6 at least. I assume there are many variables)

@@BigStreams_ yeah i saw their video on the voodoo box. i was unsure because everybody was buying megasquirts and i wanted to keep it mostly stock

@@graham_lewis cool, yeah upgrading the ECU is totally optional and does not have to be done. If you use the stock ECU you will have to stick with the stock injectors as well, which limits the amount of power you can put out, but it’s still a solid increase in power imo.

K swap is probably closer to $10k. LS swap is closer to $13-15k

K-swap kit is what? $4k. K24a2 is $800. Add a new oil pump and other goodies, blah, blah, you're looking at $6-7k for a k that does 220 wheel with Honda reliability. Not to mention K's are the best 4 cylinders ever made and have a HUGE aftermarket and can handle 500whp boosted on a stock block. Now someone just needs to knockoff the ridiculously overpriced kswap kit and sell it for $2k.

Expect to pay around the 10K USD mark for a K swap and about 6k for a turbo setup. However if you want to build a turbo setup that's as reliable as a K swap for track use you will be spending K swap money or more anyway because turbo Miatas tend to struggle in the reliability department on the track. For a street car I'd probably go with a turbo and for a car that sees regular track use I'd go with a K swap. That being said at the power level of the Miata in the video it will probably be quite reliable, the problems with reliability are more of an issue with more than 200whp. A stock K24A2 makes about 220-230whp with the parts needed to swap it into a Miata like the Kpower Industries headers, Type S oil pump and Kpower Industries intake manifold. The K series also weighs less than a BP engine even without a turbo, with a turbo on the BP the weight difference will be even greater

Over time, I'm sure quite a bit. But BP's are stout little things

NA is the generation code

because the chassis code is NA

First generation=NA Second generation=NB Third generation=NC Fourth generation=ND They aren't talking about the cars aspiration, they mean that it's a first generation car

@@joedesalvo3316 It's not a chassis code. Chassis code would be the 6A / 6B, so on and so forth. NA is the generation code. 1990-1993 are NA6A, 1994-1997 are NA6B (speaking US market, japan has different dates and codes).

And now you learned your Miata generation codes

That's a kit designed specifically to upgrade components of the factory turbo 2004-05 Mazdaspeed. This is the Stage 1 FM turbo.

No he said “pf1s” are uncommon. Those aren’t Rpf1s. Different wheels

Their shit is so overpriced he's just rolling in the dough.

NA is the generation designation. The next gen is “NB”. It doesn’t stand for naturally aspirated (for Miatas)