Some additions/thoughts: * A sharps container for spent blades-I'm using an old pill bottle. * Super glue debonder if getting super glue-stuck fingers are no fun ever. Debonder is more important than activator imo. * Band aids, because even the most cautious (definitely, definitely me) of us slip-and *on top of the hobby desk*, not buried in the bathroom or the kitchen junk drawer or the back of the hobby desk where you need to go rummaging while trying not to bleed everywhere. * I would say getting *nice* nippers specifically is so much better than getting bad/cheap ones that feel like they crush more than they cut that it's best to just buy a good one at the start. I'm not sure how expensive the one you mentioned is but Tamiya wasn't *too* painful. I almost regret buying the cheap ones I got at the hardware store, except that I can still use them to do things roughly, like cutting wire or chopping up sprue, which has saved them from getting tossed. * I'm gonna make everyone mad and say you don't need to clean mold lines when starting.

Really solid list. You could go on forever adding items to it, like a water pot and cloth for cleaning brushes between paints, an empty jar for all your sprue offcuts (to save for making goo!) a mask when priming, etc etc but for just getting a new painter off to a good start this nails it all.

I’ve spent way too much on stuff I don’t use that seemed like a great idea at the time.

Great video ! Can’t wait for the rest of the series.

Have to say a Roseamary of Co brush ain't that Moreton cheap acrylicsand oh what a difference definitely bang for buck.

Great video! Can't think of anything you've missed

Great list, very comprehensive. I know it would likely get covered when you get around to a paintbrush dive deeper video, but I struggled to get hold of a WNs7 size 0,1 or 2 for quite a while a few years back. While WN are very nice brushes, I would advocate the Rosemary & Co s33. Half the price of WN and in my opinion just as good. They also do sable/synthetic blends which so far have been great workhorse brushes for me.

I d love a video on how to prep 3d printed figurines. I hate this step of the hobby and often realise there are marcs on minis after i m done with the paint job 😢

What's your experience been with priming using the molotow paints via airbrush? I tried them once after hearing good things, but didn't have great results, and they seemed to not stay on the mini too well. Probably user error, as it was my first time with an airbrush and it was just an airbrush that came free with the compressor, but yeah, curious to hear the thoughts of someone with a bit more experience!

What grit sanding stick do you use?

Plastic putty is way easier to use and more effective than Milliput

Great video and great opinions. I don't share your point about GW paints. There are more expansive then others, true. But the whole Pot-Gate-Nonsense is overblown from my point of view. It isn't that hard to simply keep your Lid clean. The range in general is super consistent for me and had a superb choice of colors. Vallejo, AK or (the new) Army Painters are perfect choice as well. The old Game Color Starter Set was the perfect mix of colors I think. The only thing this set was missing was a nice magenta and a Black and Brown wash. This set could carry you very very far.

Medium to dilute the paint. Buy less paint if necessary.

It is IRRESPONSIBLE to practically demand your viewers get a wet palette! In extremely humid environments, they actually are WORSE for painting with. When extremely humid, the paint will rapidly wash out, and two brush fulls five minutes apart will be VERY different in opacity and behaviour. In very humid environments, a cold porcelain tile is absolutely better than a wet palette.