" ... mainly because I don't really know ... " lol - classic, thank you!

Thanks Ray. I’m going to make one myself here in freezing Ireland. Silly builders put attic hatch in bedroom ceiling so all heat is being lost through it into cold attic. Can’t wait!

It’s 102 today here in Louisiana and in the hall upstairs it’s 76 but when I pointed towards the seam on the attic door I got 92. I’m definitely making this asap. Thanks for this video instruction. 👍🏼👍🏼

Good video! Glad your wife let you down from the attic. Not so sure that would happen around here.

I’m in Georgia, the heat difference is HUGE in summer! Building mine today!! Thanks!!

love the intro

Excellent professional demonstration with explanation on how each part of the box is cut and why--to fit the opening in a snug manner and easy to move and reset in the opening. Direct and to the point. No idle chatter. Thank you, well done. Now I have to do this!

Thanks for the video, clear instructions without the waffle!-am going to make one of these this week..kind regards from the chilly UK 😊

good solution thanks for sharing ray.

I'd keep an eye on the area where the lid is recessed down into the attic access framing. Could get moisture build up there depending on your local climate.

Awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to make it and share it, its appreciated.

Thanks. I was looking at foam to do this today. I like how your box fits down into the area around the stairs. Good job.

Definitely doing this before winter comes. Great video!

Great idea, The only change or addition I would make is to put some handles on it in case I need to pull it down a little to make sure it seals

Good video. I’ll start doing this soon.

Awesome! Thanks!!!

Many thanks! There's probably a criteria to decide which way to face that foil. It reflects radiant heat well, so simply ask which direction matters more. If you're more concerned about your home heat leaking into the attic in winter, then face the foil inward bouncing that heat back in. If heat from the attic getting into your house in summer matters more, then face the foil out. Of course if you can find insulation with double-sided foil, that doesn't matter.

Just what I was looking for today. Thanks!

Looks really good! Thanks for sharing.

Woo hoo! Just did this. Thank you for help!

Nice and simple solution. I will try. Thanks from Poland.

Excellent idea ! Thank you

That’s awesome man, thank you for the video!

I like your solution very much. Will be giving it a go. Thanks!

Great idea, and excellent video!! Thank you!

Hey, just had my husband watch this. We have the same type of pull-down stairs. Thanks for the tip, again!!! :)

Great idea. I'll do the same... Thank you ..

Nice install, attention to detail

Thanks for the vid, I just did the same in my attic this weekend

Great video! Thank you!

Nice Job Ray , getting a one put in soon will be sure to , cover it up and will reference back to your video .,

Looked at many videos on this topic and loved your design the best, especially at the 6:10 minute mark where you show how you added the additional foam. I just did this, using 1/2" foam inside the frame for the stairs, and then added 2" foam on the sides (above the floor level) and on the top. Checked it from underneath by leaving the attic light on and turning off the light in the living space - saw no cracks of light in the box - nice tight seal. I also like how you built it in place, since nothing is completely square in an older house! Thanks!

That's pretty cool thanks for making the video

Very good!

Thank you!!! I was looking for a way to insulate my new Werner 25x54 attic ladder. I discovered a ton of fiberglass blanket above my opening, so I'll be needing to rearrange how attic is insulated. Not something easily planned when you are looking at an uninsulated 25 x 54 hole in the ceiling. lol. Thank you for making the video and showing some before and after. I have some EPS foam board , so I'll be looking forward to this. BTW, I ground down a jigsaw blade to resemble a bread knife with rounded over scallops. Bosch want's like $14 for a blade. It does cut pretty well and smooth enough through 2" EPS foam.

Well done. Thanks.

A great job and he has nailed it as far as i am concerned. No air infiltration this way. The cost is certainly nice too.

Great video! Thx!

Thank you this is awesome !

Great idea

Just finished building a cover. Thanks for the instructions; easy project. I found the most time consuming part was peeling the backing off the tape. A few other learnings from my job. I did not have a utility knife that went all the way through the board so used a hacksaw blade. This worked ok, but did leave a rough, uneven edge. Putting the manufactured edge down along the staircase board helped solve this. I also had a gap between the staircase frame and the attic frame that was not insulated. I filled this with spray foam ( Great Stuff).

Good job 👍

I used extra drop ceiling angle and rivets to build a box. I than added hinges. It swings to the right as I enter the attic. It's a beautiful thing.

Great video

Thanks Jimmy

Im thinking the shiny side should be on outside facing attic space, would that help in the summer months to reflect heat? Also in winter months the white side facing steps would absorb heat?

Thank you for paying attention to air gaps and sealing -- a lot of other videos just slap it on top and don't mention that. They may be helpful, but not as effective as when it is air sealed like you did in this video. Nice work!

This is a great idea. Initially I thought the tombstone design might not be convenient enough, but a hinged design would really be worse now that I think about it. Thanks for the upload!

Good decision on the shiny side good video

Brilliant

Boom, 1k likes! :D congrats. Good setup. btw

That's a cool idea. Though the hinge would be useful. My attic doesn't have enough room to open something that big.

Thanks for the video.I will have to build it because its freezing.

For the record using aluminum foil when cooking the dull side is the non-stick stick. There is a big difference.

By the way, I just completed doing mine EXACTLY the same way you did yours. As they say, great minds... There is a difference though, I used EPS rather than PolyIso. I don't think it makes much difference, but the PolyIso has slightly higher R value per inch I believe. I have heard that PolyIso can lose some R value over time though. Not sure if that's true or not, but the EPS certainly is a lot cheaper! Makes more of a mess when cutting it. Lots of static clingy 'snowflakes' all over the place!

This is a very creative way to a solution and kudos for that! If I had to improve on your design, I'd put a rubber seal around the door, you also need to make sure that it's continuous so the ends sort of get melted together and for that you need to leave them about 1/2" longer on each side. Try using a rubber seal not foam and you can maybe glue that instead. I'd also make sure that the frame has a thermal break from the ceiling. You need access to the space around the frame. Make sure that all of that if filled for foam. If you can get a hold of a roll of expanding window installation foam that's best but if not the gun spray kind is also a good solution. There will likely be some packers around the frame. Not much you can do about thermally separating those so ignore them. Fill everything else with foam. One dry, cut out the excess. You can also take the door trim off and do the same on the other side. You'd be amazed how much heat gets lost though the gap around the door.

Great video. I will be making one of these boxes soon. I am considering doubling the flat surface in attempt to use as much of the full sheet of material and to increase R value. What do you think?

Thanks. For the video, I just built one today. I couldn't get the cuts as clean as yours but I made sure the natural edge that I didn't need to cut was facing the bottom and to make up for the jagged cuts on the top and sides, I uses plenty of the Nashua foil tape. Do you think that adding one of those attic covers they sell on Amazon over the box would give it a more finished look since they're about the same dimensions as the box?

Oh... one more thing. I put the foil face on BOTH inside and outside. Since there were two layers of insulation my thought was that if it were on both sides, it would reflect heat down in the winter from the bottom, and reflect heat away from the top in the summer.

thanks for the video, can you come to my house in NJ and build one for my attic? :)

I've got a tiny attic and very little space around the stairs. I checked around and it seems the Attic Tent will be a better solution for me, rather than buying all the insulation and cutting them custom.

Awesome job. How many 4x8 sheets did you need?

Hi Thanks for video, well done. Would be helpful if you had some specs on foil tape, and sheets of insulation

So I'm reading up on this project and I really appreciate your guide. During my research, it seems that to code now the insulation should be equivalent to the surrounding attic insulation. Add batt fiberglass on top of the cover to looks to be recommended to improve the total insulation. Any thoughts on this? Have you found that just the foam board is sufficient for your needs?

Thank you for the vid! Going to try. One question, it appears to be a box within a box -- is it? (vid didn't show the details)

Hi, will this work with blown in insulation I'd it it higher loft than the rafters? Thanks.

Great video! How much foil tape do you need for a project like this?

What R value did you use for the foam board?

Does it make sense to add Weight on top of it and add wheather stripping like a rubber quarter round to make a seal tight better? Thank you . Was very helpful

I had 10 plus inches of cellulose blown in several years ago. Went up recently to install security cams. All of that cellulose has sank to the rafter tops. As in it's ALL GONE. Cellulose is a waste of money. It settles over time. Like you just tossed all that cash out the window. At least pink panther fiberglass stays put.

This is a great walkthrough and I'm planning to try it myself. One question, my lightswitch box for the attic is built into the side of the frame for my pulldown stairs, in a corner. The way the switch box is positioned, it would obstruct any foam board--I also have a narrower 1" area to work with. What's the right approach for dealing with this? Should I measure and cut a switch box-sized gap in the board? Would this allow too much of an air leak? And do I need to wrap that area in foil tape or something to prevent a fire hazard?

You could put a hinge, cord and pulley on it so that pulling down the ladder would lift up the cover?

great Idea, I just wonder why I don't see insulation on the floor of the attic!

How many 48”x8ft boards did you need and is this 1 or 2 inch foam board?

I like this video and made one in the winter. Worked great, but went up a few weeks ago and the tape failed. Too hot I suppose. Any suggestions?

How many sheets did it take for your project? How thick are the sheets? Thx

An energy efficiency contractor installed one with a wood frame and lid. It's solid but has me wondering about the consequence of all that weight resting in one spot.

Will this work for heat coming in during the summer?

How does the material do with sound proofing? This is exactly what im looking to do to an attic, except we hangout up there sometimes so we can be loud (we’re a college group) Roommate goes to bed early. Looking to cover the space with sound proofing. Any suggestions?

I have two attic doors. One in my hall and one in the garage. Both are not insulated. Would this cause my house to be hot in the summer? The rest of the attic seems to be effectively insulated.

What size staples did you use?

So those covers that tout R values of 14 to 17 are pretty much worthless? Also, how hard is it to position the box when you head back down from the attic? Thank you!

polyisocyanurate is flammable when left exposed and should not be used unless it is surrounded by 1/2 inch gypsum or other non flammable material.

As far as I know the shiny side is supposed to face whatever warm side your trying to insulate... the shiny side is for radiant heat to reflect heat back towards the warm space, the foam is for insulation against the cold space on the other side...

Is this a 1” board?

Shiny side should be facing radiation energy source typically the roof in souther California

that is one massive attic.. i can barely crawl in mine

Love that screaming styrofoam sound 😖

Is this same in attics that get really hot? Just curious.

Very helpful but I have an actual door to my attic since there's a room over my garage.

A company I just watched their video on youtube make an attic door that's 3" thick filled with foam insulation. I can't understand why all attic door companies don't make the door itself an insulating door. People wouldn't accept it on their front door and their attic door is mounted where all the heat goes first.

You sound like Heath Ledger Joker. That's not an insult.

I live in Texas and it’s 104 and I can see light all the way around my attic door! Send help ! :(

Thanks, Jimmy Kimmel!

Bence olmadı. Biraz yüksek bir muhafaza yapıp, üzerine strafor veya sunta üzerine strafor iyi olurdu. Bunu, kızaklı veya açılır kapanır yapabilirsin..Türkiye' den Selamlar ..

I think the Different sides has to do with Mold and Moisture

I’m trying to convince my parents to turn out attic into my room , my mom keeps saying that you can’t and I’m like . 😑 yes you can. Hopefully I convince them cause I have money I’m still saving up to be able to make it my dream room.

You probably should engineer it with a proper rubbery seal all around the edge. Even though you think you've sealed it, you haven't really. It really needs to be airtight.

You have toe move the insulation every time you want to use the attic - not for me. Stair is in the garage.

Where's all the junk that supposed to be 'stored' up there? LOL!!!