Thank you MrReasonabubble, (I think), I'm just a simple man with hight percentage Neanderthal, from Zimbabwe, so had to look up what ASMR is, to check how much of an insult I was receiving : ) I tend to use, a nice cup of tea accompanied by J.S.Bach, to take the edge off. If my i nadvertent ASMR, results is you passing out before the end of the video, may I suggest you select "2"on the playback speed, that should sort it. Wish you all the best.

@@thomson1963 oh, I don't think your content is sleep-inducing at all - it's fascinating. It's just that it's also soothing to watch! :D

​@@thomson1963He meant that the way you speak is beautiful, not just very informative and I think the same, awesome video.

I very happy you like it Micabezaenelpiso, Thank you for making the time to have a look. All the best, Colin.

You are very kind, thank you Dany.

Thanks Wawet76, happy it's of some help.

Well, Cate Page, I'm happy to know you have stumbled across me wee videos, you're obviously quite patient, to sit though my long winded attempted explanations, good to see they aren't a wast of time, for everyone. Not sure they warrant your very kind words. Reminds me of, Mary Schmich lovely essay, "Advice, like the youth, probably just wasted on the young" in particular, the final paragraph; "Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. Advice is a form of nostalgia. Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ugly parts and recycling it for more than it's worth." Thanks again for the opportunity it reminisce. ):)

Thank you SEKAF, I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment, you are very kind.

Hello Marcel Geser, than you for taking the time to comment, I'm glade you have found this one useful. Hopefully there will be some more uploaded, in the near future. Wish you all the best.

Thank you Tomás Matos, I'm happy you are getting some value from the videos, they are not just for new jumpers, the jumpers with loads of full log books, do not automatically have knowledge absorb information thanks to osmosis or photosynthesis. You need to make an effort and search good information out. Sadly not one manufacturers manual has the correct technique to set a KillLine, for example. More videos are in the pipeline, thanks for the encouragement, just as soon as I get some of my backlog of maintenance work completed, (so I can pay the bills) Wish you all the best.

I'm Happy you found it useful ToeTicket. Happy Landings.

Thanks THETHRIIVCO, for taking the time to have a look and make a comment, I'm happy you found it useful.

I'm happy, you're happy Melody, thank you for watching and making a comment. Glade you found this little video interesting, hope you find some of the others interesting as well. Wish you all the best.

You are very welcome cay callan, Stay inquisitive. ):)

Happy you liked it Daniel, I had the Privilege to meet some of the jumpers/stuntmen from the Gipsy Moths at the last PIA Symposium, Feb 2019. Spectacular times, their recording gear was the size of your average carry-on baggage. Did you notes the use of two spring loaded pilot chutes on one bridle? Why was that the fashion and why is it no longer so popular? Sonia is the first person I know, who had a Pin stab her bridle and Lock her Vector main container closed 31 Oct 2004, she handed it perfectly with a happy landing on her reserve. All the best, Colin.

Hello slowfaller, I'm glad you found it useful and it's good you came back to the skies, "You are never too old to have a happy childhood" Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. There are a few other videos you may find useful, if they don't increase your knowledge and further curiosity, they also work as a Non-pharmacological intervention for insomnia.

I plan to view more for all things considered

I'm happy you found it useful, thanks for taking the time to watch, Victor.

Thank you for making the time to watch and comment. Happy Landings,

You are very welcome Jerry.

Thank you for watching and for taking the time to comment maxiking8496, Yes each system has good parts and not so good parts in their design, but if you know how to operate the system you have, which weak points it has, you'll be at a great advantage. I (almost)never run the original designs from the manufactures, they all get the "CAM", which means the centre line has approximately 20cm extra, to allow for shrinkage(with use in the future) and the creep back inside the bag (that you and everyone else experience). Please consider watching the next part of, The Pilot Chute (a wee bit extra) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e66fq5elvJyrgJ8.html something

Mohammed Adil, thank you for watching, it's my pleasure, I'm glad you liked it.

Thanks for the question Gregor. No Down side at all, It's only that I have an allergy, to the change in routing because it is't hitting the nail on the head, as to the root of the problem, of "Pin Stabbing Bridle" goes. please see if I explain it better in the supplementary video (a wee bit extra).

Hello Akegata42, Thanks for taking the time to comment, Hopefully the second part, The Pilot Chute(a wee bit extra) helps to clear any misunderstanding over the centre line length related to the Stop Tape or Stop Channel length. I prefer to lengthen the tape or channel on the inside of the bag section, so after the bag releases the canopy, everything will slide up the centre line, the apex of the P/C will hit the bridle "V" and no lip of P/C fabric is left to grab air asymmetrically and start spinning. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e66fq5elvJyrgJ8.html

"The best safety device in any aircraft, is a well trained crew"(FlightSafetyInternational) You are the most important component of your equipment. Gear has advanced, most of the time in a good direction, we need to understand its anatomy and how to operate it well. Thank you for watching and making a comment, Steve Austin. Happy landings.

Hello Geno, thanks for your comments, I'm glad you found some useful points. The classic bridle will give you good service, way less cost to operate, your canopy should not experience any additional wear and teat. On all the classic bridles I work on, I always adapt the bag with a fixed attachment point, (as seen at, 18:44 + in the video), Some bridles have a wee bit of Hook Velcro on them (You can just unstitch it) that may eventually damage a small section of the center cell rid stitch line, after 1500 Jumps or so.

Hello Kyle Callender, I like to use Tecamaid MDS .040(resin grade PA 66)(Molybdenum Disulfide Filled Nylon) for the stiffener, 50x25mm, 1.5"Ty3 Binding Tape (170mm long) and a wee bit (60x25mm) Ripstop nylon adhesive tape. a little 1/4" basting tape is also handy. Deburr the stiffener, apply the ripstop tape or tapes for some colour. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fOCCn8eXzsnTk2g.html Line up the edge on the one end of the 1.5"Ty3 tape (this is where the basting tape will help keep things straight) wrap the Ty3 tape around the stiffener (hold the end back on itself) Run a straight line of stitches around(x2) the edge (close to the edge) Now attach it close to the P/C handle, use the existing reinforced part of the P/C (not just directly to the P/C fabric alone, this will provoke damage) On some P/C designs its easer to unpick a section of the seam(Fabric too mesh), so you can gain access to make the stitch. Some times it's a good idea to add ripstop tape to the P/C to reinforce the handle area, (normally two 20cm section of ripstop tape, stitched around, then refit handle and LockTag) I hope that is reasonably clear.

Thanks for your question Dave, when pack a P/C the bridle exits the bottom of the P/C, it might be easier to see from the following videos. Have a look at this video from Susy Lee Start at 19:00 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNCqZ62m3NzcooU.html You may find this video helpful as well, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e66fq5elvJyrgJ8.html

In situations when it’s mad, I tend to let the material dry first and the mud turns in to dust comes off a little easier sometimes. Afterwords, soaking it in the bathtub with the little baby shampoo (mild soap) may help to lift some of the dirt from the weave of the fabric. Gently, does it. Avoid agitating the material excessively, no scrubbing it together, it will increase the permeability of the fabric eventually. After a rinsing, roll it up in a towel to accelerate drying, then air dry, if I’m in a hurry, I’ll set up a fan to blowing on it. Then, Extract the center line from the bridle as much as possible, and wipe it with some silicone lubricant, and repeat on the other end. The grommets on the bag may appreciate a wipe of lubricant as well, if they’re made of brass.

I heard that the "traditional" way put less wear on the bridle and the flaps, because there is less friction between those two things. But it's something that I heard on a dropzone... I'd like to know Colin's opinion on the matter.

@@Wawet76 Merci ;) Waiting for his opinion as well.

Thanks for the Question Guillaume, I now realise, the video is not clear, sorry about that. There is now a small additional video, that I hope clears things up a wee bit. The French method has NO affect on the wear of the bridle, If you set your P/C correctly for use (with two steps) and deploy it properly you are Good. If you semi-set your P/C(only one step), you may be in for a big surprise, however you route your bridle.

Hello V__, Not really in enough detail, sorry about that. F111(permeable) is my preferred fabric for pilot chute, 27" diameter seem to work well for deployment of main canopies up to 200"ish size, them move up to 30" or 33". In the 90's Little Vectors(EST2) came with 33" that tended to pull too strong, Gus Wing gave me the tip, to pop the 33'F111 P/C in the washing machine, it would increase the permeability of the fabric, thus taming the aggressive snatch force of a new P/C. No need for that now with the large variety of diameters available. ZP pull harder, the first ones PdeFr made were in the 33"zone with a Horrific Snatch force (=risers, lines, canopies and jumper Damage), thankfully they learnt it was better to shrink the diameter and moved to 25"ZP. But, the air can't get though and needs to spill out the sides, resulting in erratic shimmy pull, (potentially). F111 on the other hand, some of the air passes though the fabric giving a steady smooth pull. If a F111 33" is struggling to extract a 300 size canopy, I'd probably test it with a ZP 30"and see how it helped. (or 36"F111, if the BOC could handle the volume)

@@thomson1963 thank you again for the thoughtful and detailed response. I'm glad I switched the PC to F111.

@@sivonparansun hello again, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aduCedqaut6Uj4E.html I just stumbled across this marvellous demonstration of a pilot chute not quite compelling with its job discrimination. We can't see the whole picture but, OK it's not launched so well (give him a break its like jump #1or#2 probably) with two extra burble generators adding to the fun. They are using a "KillLine" on a Student Rig, who knows what size canopy it is, I'm pretty sure it will feel zero benefit from a collapsed P/C in canopy flight (a ridicules fashion accessory in this student category) May be just my imagination and confirmation bias; If you look closely,(1:11) the centre line (at least the outline of it) can be seen inside the bridle, apparently under tension. It's my speculation this P/C (like so many others out there) Has Not Been Set Correctly, (probably impossible to set correctly, without some maintenance/adjustments, like extending the CentreLine and StopChannel) Even with an appropriate P/C diameter for canopy size, the poor P/C can't do its Job to the best of its potential if the centreline is messing with its shape too early. Wishing you many happy landing, with your new Vector.

@@thomson1963 loved the detailed response thank you. I have another question: UPT offers 27" PC as standard but they do a 30"PC as a 'wingsuiting mod'.... if my deployments are going to be mostly terminal for a while, am I asking for trouble with the larger F111 pilot chute? Sunpath suggests excess of 30 inch f111 PC for the 200ish sqft canopy I plan on flying so im confused

@@sivonparansun So long as you pack properly and deploy properly, every thing is going to be alright. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNCqZ62m3NzcooU.html The "F111" 30" will be fine, so long as it's in combination with "Keener Rubber Bands" and you decelerate a wee bit, before deployment. Note where the rubber bands are attached to the bag (On the sides, Not on the mouth flap) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNCqZ62m3NzcooU.html?t=750 , it's 120mm of 3/4" Ty3 Tape added to the sides of the bag, similar to how they did it in the past.

Hello Alberto Calmini, Yes good question, what about the PullOut, sorry I did not give it the time it deserves. When I started, I went from S/L to Ripcord to BellyStrap to Rear of Leg HandDeploy(ThoughOut),on my Mighty WonderHog. handle attached to the base of the P/C, I was properly educated on how to operate it and used it for many years. (No KillLine back then, we allowed the MainBag to slide/burn it's way up the bridle to cover the P/C, that increased the performance of my Cruislite) Until I became a fashion victim and moved on to a BOC. popular now as then(80's&90's), frequently misunderstood and misused, classically dialogued/floating handle, tricky to find, or P/C too deep over to the Lh side resulting in hard pulls and ripped P/C fabric. Absolutely not a fault of the system, more the user error, insufficient education. With some of the appalling BOCs coming from some manufacture, the PullOut is not a bad option. As far as premature deployments go, please don't drop your guard, watch your back, front and sides. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbeooceK3LO7m58.html

Joey Gee, sorry I was not clear with that, the limiter tape, central tape ( or Crown Lines when on a high performance round parachute like the ParaCommander) has one job, it's to displace(pull down) the Apex(the center/high point) of the chute to a "sweet Point" just above the peripheral hem, resulting in the best projected surface area, for a given pilot chute (or ParaCommander parachute) Creation the classic Valentine Heart in cross section, = best pull force for a given size PilotChute.

skydive 333 nacer, Thank you for taking time to watch and comment, I'm sorry it's too much some times,(I get carried away) I hope one day you can make a visit to my workshop, where I will have the opportunity to answer any questions you have, face to face, until then good luck, stay happy, healthy and soft landings.

Hello Robin, Thanks for watching and your question, I'm not as experienced with sport or base pilot chutes, just attempting to increase the general knowledge of the different components used in skydiving equipment. In the future I may cover some of the marvelous designs out there, used in the base world.

Hello again Rodin, yes the reserve pilot chutes (with and without Springs) deserve an episode all to themselves, there's some important information more people should know about, thanks for asking. It's on my to do list, sorry for the delay.

It’s not exactly a downside, It’s that the reason for its introduction is not getting to the root of the problem. You won’t find (In a manual) a clear explanation of how to prepare a collapsible PilotChute for use correctly, with the centerline completely out of the equation, for the “traction” part of the PilotChute life. Good so routing the bridal the French way will still allow people to jump with incorrectly set PilotChutes.(I prefer all my components to be performing at the best) OK the Pin Stabbing the bridal and locking the container closed, is solved But if everyone received a good education on how to set a PilotChute from day one (& all manufacturers produced PilotChutes that could actually be set correctly) we could all happily jump the classic routing. Route your bridal however you’d like, but please set your PilotChute correctly. (see: around minute 30 on the video)

@@thomson1963 thanks a lot for the quick respons. I myself pack my it the classic way. but ive been told not to, enen tho this way it provided in the rig owner manual (javelin odyssey). looking at it from a from physics stand point, i was like... "but i set everything correcly what could go wrong?" i kept coming to the conclusion that the pin will release first... glad i stuck to it since i was a student :P

@@TheMathiasM44 When I first saw photos(+20 years ago) of a container locked closed with a Pin stating the bridle, sabotage was my initial thought. After really doing a lot of head scratching, I came to the conclusion that, if the P/Cis not set correctly, the CenterLine violently comprising (like a concertina)the section of bridle on the other side of the Pin, as the Pin rotors 90º just before extraction, the show begins. I've seen five incidents, there have been many more (misdiagnosed as PilotChute in-tow or LazyPull) and I've discovered bridles with evidence of pin strikes (50% hole)

Hello Matija Thank you for watching the video, I’m happy you upgrade to a LockTag handle. From the photo it appears your Vector was made some time ago, what is its DOM? If it’s more than ten years old the BOC will probably be one of the good ones, so just move it. If it’s a newer one with the BOC cut the wrong way, I’d pop it off put it in the bin then fit a new BOC constructed correctly, closer to the Rh Flap. Since last year UPT have fitted the Rh Flap in the appropriate place (after a wee bit of encouragement) sadly there are a large number of Vectors out there with the Rh Flap too far away from the BOC. If you are having one of these, move the flap attachment, pop out the 40mm or so of stitches, pull the flap closer to the BOC and restitch, I do this by hand with the use of a Stitching Awl and some Patients. drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/18sM4IuuX_WnLO2lYjqM6hzXJQaOC7i-L I hope this is reasonably clear and you don’t need to use the Rosetta Stone. All the best, Colin.

Sorry the top link for the photos is bad, my finger problem. try the link below. drive.google.com/drive/folders/18sM4IuuX_WnLO2lYjqM6hzXJQaOC7i-L?usp=sharing

Yes, the Vector is from ‘97. The pouch fabric is in good condition. Maybe it could be tightened a bit just on the edge where the PC is inserted. I think my rigger prefers repositioning pouch instead of unsewing right flap. It feels very insuring that you think that is proper way of how the gap could be fixed. Thank you very much for replying!

@@matija713 Absolutely, just pop the BOC off and back on again, (your lovely 97 model has a superior fabric for the BOC & cut the correct orientation + dose not suffer from the poorly attached Rh Flap, I only started seeing that in the last 8 or 9 years) Before removing BOC, make a mark with chalk along the edge of the Rh Flap. That will be your reference mark for the mouth of the BOC new position, the side closest to the pin could remain on the same stitch line(just moved along a bit), the other side just move the tape progressively closer to the back pad binding tape, to help cinch up the tension of the BOC across the mouth,(normal it only needs 5 or 6mm) compensating for the fabric fatigue. All the best, Colin

Kenneth Smithfield, I wish you all the best, you have the power, stay positive, you can do it. Frank Zapper said, "If you want to get laid, go to college, If you want an education, go to the library". Read or listen to, David Goggins Can't Hurt Me & Jordan B Peterson 12 Rules for life. "May you have the serenity to accept the things you cannot change, the courage to change the things you can and the wisdom to know the difference." (Reinhold Nieduhr)