That's on the Fast Shipping option, I think it's UPS or one of those. The cheap china post is like 5€-7€ but you have to wait a month

Maverick PT Still better to make your own...

@@GRBtutorials For 8€? I doubt that you can achieve the quality at home when compared to JLCPCB. If you can wait, it's the best option by far

Maverick PT Well, it’s not like I’m going to use them for production. For one or two PCBs, it’s usually cheaper, because you don’t need 10 of them for prototypes, and it’s much faster, which allows you to advance in your project. Not to mention what happens if you screw up... That happened to GreatScott! once, and he gave up on the DIY or Buy!

@@GRBtutorials In that you're correct but I like to have a proper PCB on my final versions of my projects. It brings the overall quality up. Different tools for different ends right? PS: You can order just 5

Yes microcontrollers are overused

I can put it on my to do list.

Here you go - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mdKFiaiqzsW9foE.html

I thought VFD meant Variable Frequency Drive. For 3 phase motors

Would love to see this!!!

Honestly, with the cheap prices of these chargers on eBay, Aliexpress, etc. it wouldn't be worth the hassle to get the windings just right. Not even considering the prices of the individual parts.

will try to do it at home and see the cost also if you order more you will pay same shipping ;)

yes but its comparitvely cheaper than going to china;)

like a commercial jingle. lol. wait...

Me too, with ESP8266/32 will be perfect, no more ZC loop to care about

@@youcefasb6293 Rolling average is easy to implement to filter out ZC

If you're a maker, every maker has to go through a design that when connected to mains power, goes kaboom to become a real maker. It's like the coming of age for us.

1800 bulbs? HAHAHA!! Awesome! How many do you still have today (march/23)?

@@talesmaschio -- Probably only down 40 or 50 by now. Still have close to what started with. Was a really stupid idea. Basically I heard they were "gonna ban the bulb" and I freaked out and overbought. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

@@pmgodfrey I don’t see it as a stupid ideia. What impressed me at first was how many you bought at once. Anyway, you made a decision based on info you had at the time. Also, LED lights used to be very high quality, today most manufacturers make cost oriented pieces of crap which main function is to quickly turn into electronic waste. Your incandescent bulbs may consume a bit more energy but they show a much nicer color temperature and impose zero harmonic distortion to the electric grid. So, you’re not that wrong.

@@talesmaschio -- One of the biggest issues is how well they dim. Since most are built with low cost components, you can't expect much from a switch mode power supply, especially when they have such a wide operating voltage range. So they dim to a certain point and then some go out, others don't. Plus ones I've used in our rentals seem to be of horrible quality. They're they basic ones you find at any Home Depot. Might have just been a bad batch because I have had a few here and there that still work from 10 years ago.

It's outlined in the FL5150 datasheet on how the different configurations work. Mainly, GND is a floating reference for the FL5150 so it can do things like measure voltage drop across the MOSFETS to monitor current limits and siphon energy for itself from the AC line to charge itself with a DC bias to neutral. If neutral wasn't available, they would have to use chassis ground. Neutral is also used as the zero-crossing reference to monitor when to switch. This circuit only switches the hot line. It doesn't do any control with neutral besides monitoring the zero crossing. When Great Scott attached two terminal blocks to connect two neutrals, that is purely for convenience so that he doesn't need to use an in-line crimp connector or solder and heat shrink to connect the load's neutral connection to the neutral coming from a power socket.

Hi Ivan. Did you ever visit the JAL Website, see: justanotherlanguage.org/ ? I even made an Arduino like board so that you do not need a programmer to program it. See: www.instructables.com/id/JALPIC-One-Development-Board/

I do this with 603 parts that have 8 leads. It works! A little bumpy sometimes, but yeah!

Both these channels are my favorites. They are the real and genuine guys that everyone should watch.

full bridge rectifieeeeeeEERRR

@@hmangaihzualatlau468 Yeah he's very funny😂.

Except Scott doesn't hurt himself on a regular basis.

@@geographicaloddity2 Yeah.Mr. Mehdi would be the person who survived the most electric shocks ever in this world😂😅. Some are jumpscaring ones😅

This worries me too. Mains goes to 12v circuit =\

Thank god someone here is paying attention!! Everyone needs to read this!! This a terrible designed circuit! Use a photovoltaic MOSFET driver like a VOM1271T for the love of god. It will fully isolate the high from low voltage with no tie to GND. Also the MOSFET choice here is crappy. RDSOn of .85 ohms? At 60v, half the the waveform, you are expelling a lot of energy as heat! Also from Vishay, SUD80460E-GE3, something like RDSOn of .0447. That would be a lot better just to start!

wesmart.png

20$ is the 48h shipping i believe, you can get cheaper options but it just takes longer. since he is sponsored by jlcpcb he doesn't care :D

Yeah, they are trying to take a chunk out of the home etched PCB hobby market. The advantage of DIY is the speed of iterations, so they are deliberately marketing against the idea that they are too slow. If you want to etch your own board with all of the features they have on a board, 2x layers, through hole plating, vias, soldermask, and silkscreen, it will take you 3-4 days to make (or more), unless you have the space to keep all of this stuff setup and dialed for production. If you're ordering stuff like small quantities of Dupont Riston ~$20(x2 meters), Dynamask ~$15(x1 meter), and quality copper clad FR4, the price difference between keeping a fresh setup and just ordering a board with a $22 total becomes very competitive. I just make most designs single sided and DIY, but for larger stuff with a double design, the Chinese board houses are hard to beat. I would still recommend etching a few boards yourself though. I learned a ton from the experience, like make a paper and cardboard prototype of all of your boards before etching, or ordering anything. A paper/cardboard prototype with everything checked/attached/installed is priceless. Putting together all of the stuff to etch also adds up, takes up a good bit of space, means dealing with and storing hazardous chemicals etc. They just advertise the fast shipping because their biggest hurtle is how fast you can make your own boards at home. For instance, I made a LCD breakout board 2 days ago in just under 1hr, but I've been developing my setup and routine for a year now. -Jake

If you consider you're getting 10 pbcs, it's still very close to a $2 pbc.

Hey Guys, I am just pointing at the irony. I am not telling it is not worth it.