I received my 0.4 Prusa XL recently, and so far without any tweaking I havent had any banding, stringing, or toolhead errors. It seems like they've been steadily improving the reliability and I'm impressed with how well it works now.

It still feels like you're beta testing this product in public.

I‘m glad prusa managed to reduce the amount of waste on the color/material change, considering the amount of waste created with all the failed prints…

Seriously impressive overview of the capabilities of the printer and the issues you faced. Nice work!

Love to see this type of video as I await my own XL. I’m glad it’s getting better and things like the bump hack you put in place are no longer needed. Hoping that by the end of year they really dial this in, but time will tell. Ultimately I’d love to see Bambu x1c speeds and quality just on this device.

Great video. I liked the story you told and how you presented the progression. I've been watching XL related items and felt this was worth the watch.

Opossum is the best print! The head looks awesome!

Prusa should ship out .4mm nozzles to all the early purchasers who got the .6mm nozzles or give store credit for the same amount.

Appreciate your thorough reviews and experimentations ! thanks

Thank you for your hard work on all of this. Great job!

That was an excellent video. My 2T is producing prints for customers daily and I really regret not getting the 5T to start. Can’t wait for update! Printer has worked very well for me with almost no stringing. Using Polyterra PLA and Prusament.

Nice video. Appreciate your insights and tips.

Wow, nice in-depth video. I have a prusa Mk3s that makes great prints. What I have been seeing with the XL all over the place is it is almost as dependable as the MK3. I mean every print from most all makers is that there is something wrong in every print. Some small thing that just makes it not sellable to a client but good enough for you not to throw away. It is disappointing .

Excellent tests & analysis, very in-depth

I've had the same docking issue. The cause was the docs were slightly loose. I could manually move the dock ever so slightly and feel it popping in and out of the notch the dock is supposed to be pulled into by the screw. The screw is just barely long enough to catch on the nut side so there's not a lot of friction holding the threads. Blue loctite solved my issue and the docks don't move anymore. Haven't had a tool fall off since.

@6:20 On bambu printers, you can print by object, instead of layer, but this requires the pieces to fit on the bed and the pieces to be small enough that the print head doesn't hit the print.

The video is of exceptional quality and provides intricate details. I express my gratitude for your contribution.

Thank you so much. It confirms that I made the best decision a year ago to cancel my XL order and buy an X1 Carbon. I have several now, and probably for less total than I would have paid for one XL.

Wow very detailed explanation thank you for sharing!

Great video, thanks for sharing! I'm very excited to start my multi-material journey! I have a 5-head XL and it has been nothing but AMAZING! I was a 2nd week preorder so I rx'd mine in December with the 0.6mm nozzles. It honestly from the start has been incredible. I have been fortunate to not have experienced many if any at all. The stringing has been pretty mild, but all has been pretty well soved by adjusting temp based on the filament brand and drying my filament a bit more.. This thing is a multicolor BEAST! I have a X1 Carbon and don't get me wrong, it's great, but the TIME & Material I save using the XL it's beyond worth it! I'm having too much fun/success w/the 0.6mm nozzles, so I have yet to swap them out for the 0.4mms, I just stick with the X1C for the more detailed prints. I would LOVE see/grab some of your experiment's G-Code from Printables! Cheers and thanks again!

This is the best video on the XL I’ve watched so far.

Thanks for this review 👍 I cant believe that a 4000€ printer has this kind of QC I rather buy a Ratrig a Voron and a X1 Carbon altogether for this price and stil not worry of failed prints. I feel your pain...✊

Glad to see XL being more polished but still I've got uncompleted 2T XL purchase sitting from december 23 just because I am waiting for the enclosure release. I don't understand why such complex machine at such price tag doesn't have enclosure by default. From my experience enclosure for 360mm3 build volume is mandatory (even for PLA) in cold environment, not optional. If want to thinker I would go for Voron.. I mean 3000$ price tag (incl. shipping + tax) is not thinker machine.

Awesome video! Nice job!

Cool video. I can understand your frustration with having to order new nozzles for such an expensive and delayed machine. Those problems with the first layer are disappointing.

Amazing video! I love this way of using multi material filaments. It would be incredible if they could implement the use of multi nozzles, such as infill with a 0.6mm and details with 0.2mm; that would be sick. However, most importantly, I hope Prusa can fine-tune the printer soon, as it still feels somewhat unpolished given its price.

Nice video! I changed to 0.4 nozzles on my 5 tool head XL. I’ve had no problems with mine.

Great video, thanks!

Your advice here is very helpful. Thanks for doing all this testing. I want to try that possum if I can find the model.

for the docking issue, check the cable bundle of the next tool over. The OEM clips put the cable right in the way of the puppy board cover. At the very least, they rub against each other, and it's worth replacing the clip at the back to avoid that. I wonder if your tool his colliding with the cable bundle enough to cause docking issues.

great summary, I also get imperfect first layers that would be fine for many other printers but are not what they promised.

On my X1C, I've found that reducing the print speed of support interface layers to 30mm/s (from 80 default) makes a HUGE difference in PETG/PLA support success. I think of it a little like going slower on the first layer adhering to the build platform - also two different plastics.

Extremely happy that I skipped my Prusa XL preorder and shortly before finalizing decided for the Bambu X1C. By far the printer with the least issues I ever had. Just pure printing fun from day 1 and amazing software! Is it perfect? No. But the closest to perfect I got so far. If I see all the issue that first customers had to go through with the XL - I am so happy I skipped that "experience". I was concerned that this machine was far from a "finished" product and raised my concerns in the Prusa Forum. The marketing and media strategy shortly before and at launch ... or better the lack of ... was very sketchy. And one can clearly see why now - because especially at the time they were not confident to have a "finished" product. The idea of the XL is great and I am sure with more time and tweaking Prusa can get there. But in the meantime I enjoy my X1C.

On your short I suggested anchoring the hub to the tire with very thin cylinder - much like how 3d print bunny does her tensegritty models. If they’re are 0.6mm wide you could snip off and probably not notice them in final cleanup.

Makes me so eager to get mine in April!

16:25 that is so unacceptable with the wait times especially

I wonder if closed loop steppers could help with some of the artifacts from running out of filament and having to swap in some new stuff. Clised loop steppers are somrthing i am really wanting to get into.

I would love this to work well. Running everything through one extruder on the X1C has a few downsides - time, wastage and with the default purge volumes printing black and white will leave grey banding on the white so you have to dial it up even more. On the other hand the X1C just worked right out of the box. I run all kinds of filament, cheap or not, through it with no problems. Thanks for the video.

Star shaped prime tower with 5 points so each point has a material with a minor interlock so that it stays together. Or allow multiple tower based on the differing prints ie 3 for pla, petg and Pva

really cool showcase of the goods and the bars. Really helps me understand the pros and cons vs my X1C w dual AMS. I’d love it if I could print that possum but on the other hand I love how the AMS can auto switch spools when one runs out. As usual “do both” (have XL and X1C) is a good move hehe

For multiple objects of differing colors with Bambu Studio or Orca (idk about PrusaSlicer), you can just print by object, as long as you have room on the plate… no need to separate them to different plates/jobs. Just saying that to make it a more accurate comparison to the XL.

Where did you get the spine and hand files? I want to give those a try

Regarding the first layer issues, I have found that on my XL the nozzle temperature befor probing the bed was high enough that it caused the nozzle to ooze. The little blop would then be squished while the "cleaning nozzle" step but would sometimes mess up the probing resulting in mostly too high z for the first layer in the locations where the tiny blob was most prominent. I went to the prusa chat which was not very helpful and told me that one has to clean the nozzle every time right befor the probing starts - not befor the print but that one has to stand next to the printer with pliers and right wenn the nozzle goes down to "clean" the nozzle one has to remove the blop. Sometimes this works but not reliable and obviously not when starting a print via prusa connect if you are not home. I since have dropped the temperature befor probing from 170° to 150°C for most materials and do have very good and consistent first layers even though I would appreciate a way to modify the amount of "squished" as the manual way to tune Z on the XL has to be done for every print or at least is not saved when turning the printer off. I also installed the wire brushes at the back of the printer which also help to keep the nozzles clean in the first place. Do you see the blop on your nozzles befor the "nozzle cleaning" or am I an exception? (Using Prusament)

Also when I use PLA as support material for PETG and vice versa, I only use the alternate material as an interface layer (or two or three layers usually)… that would definitely help print times and potential adhesion issues. It’s the same way Bambu recommends using their support filaments.

The story seems to be the same with every KZfaqr that shows their work. This machine is not ready for prime time. For $5K, I don’t want a machine that will be great some day in the future.

In my experience with Mk3s PLA is always unreliable on textured PEI. Satin and smooth PEI are both much better. My guess is that your switch to the satin plate would've solved your adhesion problems even without the glue stick.

Is there a way to move the filament run out sensor so its in the print head itself? I feel that it would be much better that way. Other than that thank you for being fair to the printer. You seem to be having a better time with it. I have my eye on it for the multi material capability, not the multi color one but it’s good to be able to do it. The issues with the seam line when you run out of filament is a head scratcher though. I wonder what’s the cause. Also, even on the MK3 I had a harder time with 0.6mm nozzles and I always had to use hair spray. Some things wont change I guess.

2 things. Best print, I like the MASK. Looks clean and really shows the capabilities of the XL with no explanation needed, kind of the wow factor . The prime tower would be great if you could just make a REAL print with it, not the tower. If you are making a lizard just make one you want and the other in the tower material not caring where the colors land. Could make usable parts with the tower material if able to tell it what it is supposed to be instead of a tower.

I still keep trying to see if this printer is actually worth it. For $3500-4000 to print PLA/PETG/TPU in multifilament is insane.(not touching ABS without an enclosure/ventilation) In most of your examples you can get 7 A1 printers with ams lite ($3920) 4 p1s printers with ams ($3800) 2 X1C and 2 A1 printers with AMS/amslite ($4020) Even with the overall speed increase of a single XL vs a single Bambu multicolor print, it wont beat 4-7 printers in any calculation.

Have you done any benchmark testing for part dimensional accuracy and high tolerance fitments of multiple small parts? I use MK3S+ machines at work and they are very accurate, is the XL the same level of accuracy?

I wonder if the tool dock issues or collisions cause drift in the XY alignment (or will eventually cause issues) 🤔

The nozzle probing is really a cause of failure. As the nozzle is heated during probing, in my case a slight amount of filament oozes out of the nozzle. When I notice this, I try to remove it from the nozzle tip with a pair of tweezers. I also modified the start gcode to park the tool head during heat absorbtion. Some of the filament also oozes on the print bed, when the tool head stays over the print bed. in nearly 50% of the prints, this causes the nozzle cleaning to fail. This seems to apply more to PETG than PLA.

The a1 mini is most impressive thing in the video

You could consider sorting the filament rolls in the Background. Otherwise great results, my personal experience is that wet filament can also mess up the first layer because of leakage through the nozzle.

have you retightened your screws after running the machine for a while after your first assembly? your output is so much worse off than my set for whatever reason

Thanks for the video! How is the quality and finish of the XL prints compared to the mk4 and X1C?

How do you tell the slicer to use a specific toolhead (filament) for support

After watching this, I am really doubting FDM printers in general. I recently switched to resin printing and I am never looking back - the quality and detail is just miles better than FDM printers. It hurst to see, that even the latest printers from company like Prusa can be a big pain in the butt at this age with all of the technological achievements...

It’s something I could use for my terrain making. I would be able to print in one shot multi-material working mechanism.

I can't even afford a new creality printer and stuck with a 5 year old e5 and here these guys are with all the new modern tech.

Not sure how support work in Prusa slicer for multilateral and support. In orca you can print all support in same material as the model it self and just use petg or something else and the interface layer on the support. It saves time in tool changes or material changes.

16:11 looks like high-tech roadkill. 😀

Well if it makes you feel any better about the nozzles, i bought 5 .4mm nozzles when they were in sale, to then find out that my printer was coming with them. Oh well, i have spares now.

Do you think a heated chamber would create better prints?

“Most of this things wouldn’t even existed if not for the pxl” is a bit of an overstatement mate.. 😂😂 Thank you for convincing me not to buy one 🙏

It makes me genuinely sad how unpolished the XL has been since launch. I was really hoping to see something as capable as the E3D TC but with the Prusa convenience touch… instead I feel like this thing has the QC of a creality machine with the price tag of a damn Ultimaker.

On idex I use purge buckets, it solves any purge tower issues.

17:10 - how is the frame stiffness? Seeing this move has me a bit concerned.

Thanks for the video. You say Plagued weird. I thought you said flagged.

It looks like the XL wasn't a ready product and they might have released too soon. At that price point, I was expecting to see alot better results and less hassle from the user. Hopefully Prusa will fix all those downsides and bring a more reliable machine. As a Prusa user (old i3) I wish to see them succeed since I love their open source philosophy and since they aren't Chinese based company but at the same time some competitors are eating them right now when you check cost-value.

The bed levelling issue is because the nozzle leaks filament while levelling, chang 17:14 changing the idle temp in the start gcode to 100C fixes ir permanently. Also the PEI seems to be the only good plate for pla, the same gcode on satin sheet warped for me. We are sharing a lot of the issues, really disappointing launch.

Sometimes those are not layer shifts, its just the material expanded/contracted from sitting cold for a long time. Ex: the rat is not a layer shift

I'm glad you're having success. What I'm seeing is a lot of forgiveness for issues. The comment that an idex can't do this, not entirely accurate. I had build a double idex in 2018, so not 5, but 4 tools and with my system, I only need to use prime tower for petg. Never used it with pla, the parking mechanism on the xl is hmm...not what i would expect in 2024. My design 5 years ago which I haven't changed allows for zero waste. Also, what is this nonsense with needing high end filament. I've been using various price points of filament with my quad, also using .6 nozzles and never had stringing or failures like I've seen with the xl. The xl seems like a project printer. E3d had a tool changer platform in 2020, that was a project, this should be FINISHED. It's not being sold as a project, it's being sold as a commercial production machine. This feels like it's a pre release model with features not being finished. My project quad I built originally in 2018 never had these issues, go figure 2018 still using a bl touch and perfect first layers for 6 years on 600 mm square bed. A friend of mine asked me if I would replace my quad with the xl. The more I see of it, the more I feel some weirdness. How come a come prusa research 6 years later releases a machine more raw than even my first iteration of my quad. I've since replace most or the plastic parts with cnc machined parts. I am able to do this, and prusa can't?

Well brand of filament makes absolute a difference. Like me personally I can not print with Prusa filament, I might be so used to crappy filaments that "good" filament from Prusa never works on any of my printers and settings I am used to. Hence the reverse might totally possible, that this printer and sliced settings are Prusa specifig.

how much does imput shaper speed up gyroid infill comparid to without input shaper.

this is why i am waiting until the new updated prusa XL, to many tweaks that are needed

Unfortunately, any filament saved using the XL is wasted with the sheer amount of failed prints. Sad to see every XL video turns into a trouble shooting session.

8:28 what is all that on the build plate?

Puedes configurar imprimir el relleno primero con los colores anteriores, para ahorrar material y no necesitas imprimir la torre de colores... 👍🏻 (Ahorras material y mucho tiempo de impresion)

there's no shame using glue. best thing ive ever tried

I have the same issue with the perfect 1st layer. It is really not perfect unfortunately..

eSun PVA works fine the X1C. Just had to respool it and dry it.

love to tool head but I think ill wait for the bambu lab implementation (I'm happy to waist filament in an with the ams given how much more reliable it is)

Where can I find the mask’s stl ?

I've seen companies release a product as a beta product so you know what you're getting yourself into. That would have been the right thing to do with the prusa XL and probably the mk 4 as well

I wonder if your results would've been different if you used fresh new filament??

Hah, if you think PETg and TPU are about the best bonding together wait until you try TPU and Nylon printed hot... You'll also get much better bonding with more heat between the materials + an enclosure which is an issue with the XL unfortunately. I print PETg and TPU together and the bond is so strong you can't break it across the bond layer even with pliers, the PETG will snap first.

Please repeat this but only using PETG on the interface of the supports and using standard supports instead of the tree ones, or adding 7.5% infil to the support trees. The problem with big tree supports is that they bend easily affecting the structure, you just need to find a better support configuration for dual material supports when printing bigger structures... Damn, I really wish I can convert my CR-10 to IDEX to make the complex prints I need 😞

You need an enclosure if Petg come off the sheet bed. It’s convection heat transfer issue.

This printer is the death sentence to the Bambulab X1 Carbon.

So, seems it"s not there yet... Released way too early, just like K1. Thanks Bambu for shaking the market :)

That's awesome it is faster at multi color printing than the X1 Carbon but looks to me the print quality is not there. I would rather have a high quality print that takes longer than a low quality print that's faster.

This Prusa XL seems more like a tech demonstration more-so than a final product. The early adopters took a L on this one and hopefully for v2 these issues are ironed out.

Prusa XL seems to be a defective printer... its performance does not meet its price.

I miss the material PVB,... I wonder with which material you could print that together... spoiler: not with PLA, tested that myself on the XL

1:32 I have never printed a benchy and never will :D

Fantastic! Thanks for sharing Best way to use multiple filaments printing

In my experience you should never support Threads when. They always look and work better without it for me 10:46 In my experience its PC and ABS, they work well together and are often even used together in the same Filament.

You forgot to mention that when running different materials that the bed temp has to be the same for all filaments, and while it's do-able... It can sometimes be a pain. I just run gluestick no matter what and my success ratio is at like 99%.

Cool beta product, reduce amount of waste for change material but create waste by failed prints :D