I CNC automotive parts for a living and I suspect the problem you had is likely from heat; not enough coolant flow. If your metal isn't kept at a very consistent temperature it'll contract and expand around the cutter surface and cause inconsistent hardness in the metals and then no matter your cut/feed rates it'll end up jumping around and shatter your inserts. My advice would be to find a way to better clamp your knife blanks and use 10x that amount of coolant you're currently using to control the cutting temperatures and to also clean away material; shouldn't be blowing on it with air.

I took delivery of SN. 006 today. Extremely cool blade, beyond my expectations.

I am a manual machinist, and a hobbyist as well, but you might consider planning on multiple operations and multiple fixtures so that you can get a firmer grip close to where the operation will take place. Another suggestion is to put some paper in with you knife blanks inside the SS wrap when you heat treat. The paper will burn and consume the available oxygen and prevent some of the mill scale. Very nice work, though.

Speeds and feed is easy, pick your surface speed, say carbide in d2 Maybe 50-80m/min, x 300 / cutter dia = your rpm. Then chip per tooth standard is between 0.03-0.08 for most endmills in steel. So run say 0.05 per tooth. Rpm x 0.05 x 4 (flute count) = your feed. Don't plunge direct into material, ramp at 2 degrees, transfers forces go onto the spindle, reduces chatter and helps take it easy on the cutter. When profiling down the bevel you need an endmill with a radius corner, either a bull mill or ball mill, depending on that rad you want where the bevel ends. Vibration will kill carbide quick, hard but brittle, need to eliminate chatter with better fixturing or maybe try old school hss with much reduced speeds? Hss bit more forgiving but a large factor slower I would consider ordering in the blanks laser or plasma cut or build a cheap cnc plasma. Blow the blanks out leaving 1 -2mm on OD, fixture for outside cut and surfacing, fixture for inside cut, hand finish.

I'm a CNC machine operator and programmer. One advice is get a feed and speed chart for that tool from the supplier. Every tool makers are different. Also not enough clamps. I like to tap my job with a hammer and see if it vibrates if it does add clamps to where needed. If you need any help happy to help

Professional machinist here. If you are using a coated 4 flute cutter (AlTiN or similar), you should be able to run a .250" cutter anywhere from 3000-6000 RPM in regular, mild steel. I would start on the lower end due to your slotting strategy generating lots of heat. Definitely avoid full radial engagement on tools too. Take a loot at what a manufacturer might recommend. Manufacturers like Kennametal, Iscar, Seco, Widia, etc. always have cutter recommended speeds and feeds. My feedrate guess for your cutting strategy might be somewhere around .0007" to .001" Feed Per Tooth. good luck and keep up the awesome work!

Congrats on the new design- looks incredible. Packaging and overall delivery is spot on

I appreciate the learning curve on new machines. But really, "show, don't tell." Anyone who does precision work knows what they had to do to get good at it. Mistakes happen and bad results are instructive too. Really nice work.

I would highly recommend making a fixture to hold your work, especially using long thin blanks and only being able to clamp on the ends initially. Here's how I would break it down based on your design and setup: 1 - Make an aluminum fixture with a reference corner and edge on the blade edge side of the handle end (bottom left) for aligning your fixture to the table and the stock to the fixture. You'll need 3 threaded holes/inserts for clamping in your second phase, one on each end of your handle cutout and one along the spine of the blade. Thicker is generally better here and recessed ears to clamp it to the table are also nice. 2 - It looks like you have tapered tool holders so lets break the program up into 3 phases with 2 pauses; Clamp the material at the end of the handle, tip and base of the blade. With a toe clamp you can attache your clamps to the table or fixture along the sharp edge side and still press on the center, which means your blanks only need to be oversize enough account for precision. Then use an endmill just under your smallest fillet radius to cut the handle pocket and the spine side profile. Once you get a little more dialed in a pause to go from a roughing tool to a finish tool will actually save you time assuming you want a good finish off the machine here but that can wait. Pause 1 While still clamped in place from Phase 1, Use bolts and to clamps to secure the part via the ends of the handle cutout and the spine of the blade via the threaded holes/inserts in your fixture. Now cut the rest of the outer perimeter with your square endmill and rough the bevel leaving plenty of material. Same deal here with the roughing and finish endmills except the bevel doesn't need finishing here. Pause 2 Swap to the biggest ball endmill you can run and finish profiling the bevel. Assuming you are using decent CAM software that should be pretty easy to program. Touching off ball ended tools can be tricky, running acetal as test blanks helps there.

I appreciate and honor your tenacity and your willingness to go forward that's what successful people do

That looks really nice!! Awesome to see the progress you went through 🤟🏼

What kind of increments did you do to tape the blade? x,y and z?

New to your channel nice work man. I would draw an entry point for the tool to go in CAD/CAM aka a bore bigger than the tool on any location in the stock touching the blade. Next bore it out with a 2d bore then use this as an entry point for your 3b contour tool path. Shut your lead out Off(very important) to keep the tool from burying itself in the stock on it's way out. slow your spindle down and feeds up with less DOC because your basically slotting it out. I would use a 3/16 tool or even and 1/8 tool. If your CAM program has Tabs I would use it with about .010 and then cut the blade out after removing from the machine or even just break it out of the stock. Also, if that bevel has a steep step down. you might want to do some ADaptive clearing just on the bevel first so when your 3d contouring the tool doesn't bury in the lower parts of the bevel causing itself and break.. I surface grind material first then machine and if needed do it after. But I'm making frame locks so in your case probably not necessary. This works for me and I'm no machinist.

Very interesting. CNC on only one side. I had never thought to do it that way but it makes a lot of sense.

If you cut that slot in the handle first with one operation then use that to secure the piece to the table of the tool in a jig it might solve some of your mounting issues. My experience is limited to cnc milling aluminum for rifle receivers.

Raw and real. Love the video mate.

Where do you get all your steel from? Thanks!

Learning a new process is always fun man! Hey I really enjoyed the music in this one to editing was on point

Looks awesome man. If you could pre drill some mounting holes either side of the handle area you could cut down on waste behind the handle and maybe stop the chatter on edge. Then you can hide it under the handle

How much time did it actually take to completely form that blade?

I've been meaning to make a chisel grind, Thanks mate, Inspired!

It’s a nice knife design you got there. Congrats

I've never seen a surface grinder like that, What kind of accuracy will it hold?

oh my those grinds😍

Looks cool, like the bevel on the one side design. Also your logo!! Also in the starting fase of knife making, and want to use cnc.....

Dude I was yawning when those fucking sqeaks sounds popped up and I thought that shit came from me... Had me trippin

Queue Aaron Gough...🤘🏻🤘🏻👊🏻👊🏻

Skynet was started by an Aussie Knifemaker 😂 Great video

gorgeous

would you make a lefty version of it?

Just use compressed air on the endmill, you don't need coolant on tool steels will save you the mess.

Cost ? shipping to USA?

Gorgeous. I'd shrink the logo to about 0.5 cm. Looks huge and the placement is quite a bit off.

Cool vid Dom

Are you using Oil & Water based emulsion coolants or Cutting Oils in your Machine shop? Are you throwing out your Emulsion Coolant for Foul Smell too often? Do you wish to increase your Coolant's Life Cycle? Do you have Problem of Foul Odor like Rotten Eggs etc? In case you answer "yes" to any one of the above question, then you would be definitely interested in our very inexpensive and innovative solution. Our Motto is: Stop Throwing Away Machine Coolant, use Aqua-Logic Filter for Coolant Fluid Management. "Aqua-logic" Machine Coolant Filter/Treatment System Key Features: • Very low Cost & Return on Investment · No chemical additives • Kills bacteria and algae • Systems are portable or fixed • Ends rancid Monday morning stink • Reduces coolant waste • Avoids costly waste disposal • Prevents skin rashes • Lengthens coolant life • Extends tool life • Improves part finish • Captures oil and metal fines After Using Aqua-Logic you would observe the following: i) Immediate and Dramatic Results within hours. The Rotten Egg/ Foul Smell go off. ii) Stops further breeding of bacteria. Increases the Cutting oil Life. iii) Your Purchase of fresh coolant oil would reduce drastically. Working Principle By filtering the coolant through layers of very high purity multi metal media element by oxidation-reduction, electrochemically reduces bacteria and other microorganisms that infect the coolants, as it filters swarf and contaminants. Oxidation-Reduction Process Controlling Micro-organisms The oxidation-reduction process is simply transfer of electrons from one atom of molecule to another. The difference in electrical potential between the metals in the alloy produces an electron flow that continues almost indefinitely. This oxidation-reduction media produces an electrolytic field that causes cellular damage to bacteria by disrupting electron transport that most microorganisms cannot survive. In water based coolants this media not only kills bacteria by direct electrochemical contact but also by the flash formation of hydroxyl radicals and hydrogen peroxide which interfere with the microorganism's ability to function. Filtration The unit is taken in a bye-pass loop system and there can be two methods to have the coolant coming in the unit: i) Either through a tapping in the existing pressure line (unit would take a designated LPM based on the Machine Sump Size). Optionally, we can supply a suitable AOD pump with the unit and then the unit becomes a stand alone system. ii) There is a pre-cartridge of your desired micron rating but the minimum would be 50 Microns. This is to avoid blinding of the Multi Metal Media. iii) Due to the unique design and use of Multi Metal Media, The cartridge will continue to operate in conditions where other conventional filters have plugged or ceased to operate effectively. The results are dramatic and immediate. The conversion of hydrogen sulphide to cupric sulphide ELIMINATES the rotten egg odor. -The electrolytic cell kills bacteria and eliminates further hydrogen sulphide production -Fluid life is increased and disposal costs are reduced. - The use of biocides is greatly reduced or eliminated -Process quality is improved and/or tool life is increased -Most potential health hazards are eliminated -The need to control biological activity through the injection of chlorine is eliminated. In addition, AQUA-LOGIC'S Multi Metal Media alloy provides a cost effective way to augment treatment for the reduction and removal of heavy metals. Water soluble cations, (+) ions, are removed by the galvanic action between the Multi Metal Media, eliminating or reducing most dissolved heavy metals. Benefits : o Dramatically extends emulsion coolant life. o Saves time, money and down time in waste disposal costs. o Extends tool life multi fold times. o Captures oil & metal fines through absolute micron rating filter. o Kills bacteria & algae, including legionella, E-Coli, heterotrophic bacteria, Staphylococcus bacteria, Aspergillis Niger Mold. Prevents skin rashes o No chemical additives o Coolant Sumps start to smell very bad after a few weeks, or in some case even in days. All Sump odour would be eliminated after installing “Aqualogic” Coolant Filtration system. o The saving would be self determined and the machine cost would be free within a year itself. o Reduce, or eliminate trace metals dissolved in the fluid o Balances the pH at an ideal 7.0 or above to continuously avoid the regrowth of the microbial activities. Prevents scale build ups. Get in touch at rolltechin@gmail.com

Wicked knaf bro

Why is the water milky colored

Pretty much takes the art right out of it.

I have been trying to use my CNC to make toast for the last ten years and it has not been going well.

What song was that?

Looks like you cut one out with your knuckles, lol . Great job.

now the million dollar question - now when CNC makes your knives and not your hands - do you still sell them for the same price or sell cheeper?

Ha! Your videos are so entertaining Dom, sorry I don’t know sh*t about CnC! But that Venom looks sick!

Bro my wife is being a machinist for 10 years and what you're doing is challenging your own brain to make something beautiful. I know her. And she told me keep it up

💖✌👌👏☝💪🤗⚘ love and respects from india... pl. Upload link if knife design template pdf ...

👍😎🍺🍩🔧🔨

Привет с России. сколько ценник выйдет с пересылкой? Я, сам ножами занимаюсь. Твой понравился, не очень хочется делать копию.

So the big question is : should i get a venom or surgeon

i would put that thing in its own little shed

*DB Blades* 💕💐 really excellent upload 💕💐💕 Really good content 💕💕💐 Thanks for share 💕💐 stay connect me

Warping material securing it is a serious problem with even cutting wood. CNC are extremely messy.

Will having the cnc mean you'll be making titanium knives again? Lol

boys and girls ? that is all I needed to hear to stop it and go elsewhere