Thanks Paul! I’m glad you’re enjoying it 😊

Haha - that's really nice to hear. Thanks for the positivity! Have you got that mill yet??

Hahaha thank you for the nice feedback!

Thanks for the support! I’m glad you’re finding it useful. Good luck on the build and feel free to pipe back in with any questions. I’m happy to help if I can 😁

I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have to do this, myself 😂

I hear you. I'm dismantling my cnc conversion to chase out some backlash. I've had it apart, tweaked and back together only to find an elusive .0015" pop up.

@@jrsydvl7218 .0015" is not too bad, you can easily compensate that in software (not to say that it wouldn't be better to fix in hardware, but beggers can't be choosers)

@@DarkArtGuitars No doubt, I've been shooting for

Cheers! Appreciate the kind words :)

Takes a little more time, but it's amazing what these little machines can do. I'm consistently impressed! Thanks for the very kind words, Anon :)

That's great to hear! Thank you for the feedback, bambu!

Awesome, thank you! Good luck on your build - enjoy it!

Very nice to hear - glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the positive feedback!

I'm definitely in the same boat when it comes to Solidworks. I used fusion in the beginning, and switched back to SW as soon as I found out about HSMWorks. Cheers!

Much appreciated!

Feels really good to hear that - thanks for telling me!

Glad you like them!

Thank you!

I’m glad to hear it! How’s your project going?

That's great to hear! I'm glad you're enjoying the videos!

Awesome, thanks for the kind words!

Thanks! Takes quite a bit of elbow grease but I’m happy with the way it came out!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks for all the kind words and support, MadMath!

Thank you, and very cool! How do you like the TM-2P? What kind of travels do you get in X & Y, and what is the max RPM? Are you running on single phase?

@@adamdebowski2037 The machine arrives in at the end of September. -208 @ 30 amps or 240v @ 40 amps -10 place tool changer -Programmable coolant nozzle -Chip auger -Touch probe -7.5Hp spindle -6k RPM -Travels 40” X 16” Y 16” Z Think I’m also going to go with shrink fit and a TRT-200 at some point. Expanding the prototyping capability of the company. Y-axis lathe and Fiber laser table/tube cutter after. Heading to IMTS Sept 12-14th, maybe catch up with you there?

@@adamdebowski2037 Haas machines also run really easy on a phase converter . I have no problems with mine .. but have had problems with some fanuc machines

That’s a dream machine for a guy like me! Thanks for all the positivity and feedback!!

Thank you!

Thanks! What kind of mill are you converting?

@@adamdebowski2037building from scratch Adam. I have a bridgeport clone, 14x40 lathe and surface grinder to make it happen so I am designing it up in Solidworks. I also am a daily user and most comfortable with that software.

@@dannyjay6667 that’s very cool. Good luck!

Cheers! 🍻 thanks for watching!

I think so too! Especially because I don't like breaking the vise setup, and this mill's Z doesn't travel all the way down to the table - so holding fixtures a little higher up is necessary.

Thank you!

Thank you 😊

Good luck! I’m curious how it’ll turn out.

That will all depend on where you are in the world!

If you're looking for a rabbit hole, a cnc hobby is one of the deepest! Cheers!

Hahaha - you have no idea…. There’s a reason this machine sits in the corner. I blow all the chips into a pile and shovel them into a scrap bag…. And have multiple sets of tweezers in the garage to pull out all the fun slivers. Lol. You can probably tell I learned a lot from Aaron! Love his work.

@@adamdebowski2037 Cant wait for more videos! The blades did not warp during the Heat treat?

@@BalticBlades cheers! I treated 8 knives in this batch. 2 of the 8 moved a little, but I find AEBL is pretty easy to straighten with some cold work - especially on thinner parts.

I’d agree it’s the trickiest part of the design. Lots of design and redesign. I’ll do a video on it in the future, but I sure don’t have a formula for it!

Thanks very much for the support!

Hi Genesislights. I’m not using Solidworks CAM. This is HSMWorks, which is almost identical to fusion CAM (it’s made by Autodesk). I do plan on making a video on it, but if you know how to use fusion CAM, you’ll have a seamless transition to using HSMWorks.

Hi Ron. Thanks for the kind words and interest! There may come a day when I start selling the products online, but for now I make stuff mostly for fun or friends or small custom stuff locally.

Titanium... a material I've never tried - because it scares me! Ultimately, yes...... but... if you dump too much heat into it with the wrong feeds/speeds or dull tools, you can start a fire that burns so hot it can't be put out easily. That, paired with the fact that I've had endmills glowing red hot (more times than I'd like to admit) in the past just kind of scares me away from it... but the machine will do it. How efficiently/quickly is a whole other conversation, though. If you're machining a small part, or really just removing small amounts of material, you'll be ok. My feel is that you'd be impressed with Ti handle scales that come off the PM30, but if you want to make big batches, it'd be in your best interest to get something with flood coolant. Cheers! - Adam

Definitely! He makes great stuff, and put out such great information. You bet I've been been to his channel a few time....

Cheers! It’s an AEB-L blade

Hi Amingo - thanks for the tip!

These little mills lend themselves well to knife making. They're capable of some accuracy, but not very high material removal rates - so knives are kind of perfect - And they're functional/last a lifetime!

Thanks Dan! It's funny you say that - I still pucker every time I start a program... hahaha

Thanks very much for the support! I appreciate it very much! I’ve been thinking about a video like that. It’s something I would have liked to see a few years ago. Is there something specific you think would be valuable? Or any suggestions?

​@@adamdebowski2037 How to program with fixturing and part setups is what i would like to see. Thanks.

These are 5” vises. For me, generally the bigger, the better. They generally open wider, too, to hold bigger pieces. You have lots of Z on mills like this. Z is never really a problem.

Thanks!

@@adamdebowski2037 lol, dammit I meant to say we picked "expensive" hobbies

@@HuskyMachining Haha - that's for sure. Don't remember the last time I was excited about how little i paid for an endmill!

I use a stubby 4 flute solid carbide endmill with 0.060" radius & 0.010" stepover. It definitely needs some hand finishing to smooth it out nicely after milling.

​@@adamdebowski2037 thanks, I use a 3 cutting edge for a similar job and my spindle reaches 8000 rpm, but I noticed that if I don't use coolant oil the milling is worse, but I see that many professionals like you don't use emulsion but only air I think ...I have to try again. you are very good. Thank you!

@@simone_81 typically, 3-flute endmills are meant for aluminum. You should try a bullnose endmill meant for steel, and the rigidity of your machine will also play an important role 👍

​@@adamdebowski2037 thanks for the advice, I will take a 4-flute torus cutter and do some tests, I use Artcam and I cannot use your milling strategy, which however seems really optimal, but I will try to simulate something similar, up to now I have done roughing and finish, but it takes a lot longer.👍

Hi Phiz. Thanks! I'm glad you're enjoying the content :) Good question! The short answer is: I don't align the aluminum workholding block - Every time I put it in the vise, it's sitting in a different spot.... But then I use the probe (you could use a $20 edge finder to do the same thing) to show the control where the new "zero" is. For the knives and handle scale fixtures, i use the top left corner of the block. For large production runs on bigger machines, you could definitely do something similar to your suggestion - so that you don't have to probe in the fixture plate every time like I do. You see how I place the knife blanks onto the fixture plate - locating them on dowels so they sit in the same spot every time? Well - its common to do the same thing with a "sub-plate" that accurately locates the fixture plate. The sub plate is what would live in the vise (or somehow stay fixed onto the mill's table), and then you'd place the fixture plate onto that sub plate - locating it on dowels - so it's in the same spot every time. I hope I explained that right..... Cheers - Adam

@@adamdebowski2037 Do you manually control your spindle speed? Or did you hook yours up to control it with Acorn? I am looking into it now.

@@Phiz787 I do control the spindle speed manually. I don't find it a pain since I don't have an ATC, and it helps when doing some semi-manual work like that "rigid tapping" you see me doing on the fixture plate.

@@adamdebowski2037 Do you think you would change that in the future for tapping? Or is it working fine for now?

@@Phiz787 Even if you had spindle control of the stock motor, you wouldn't be able to rigid tap. These brushless DC motors bog down and reduce their speed when the load increases, so rigid tapping would never work. You'd need a servo motor on the spindle. In my opinion, it isn't worth it. Rigid tapping can of course be done under all the right conditions, but even in industrial applications on bigger machines, people generally prefer thread milling. There's always that chance the tap can break - especially in trickier materials like stainless - which is risky. Thread milling is a little slower than tapping, but its all around better: you can get threads closer to the bottom of a blind hole, you can thread any material with the right feeds/speeds even on hobby mills, and if the thread mill breaks, you won't have to scrap the part - it'll just fall out of the hole. The down side is that thread mills are generally more expensive than taps.... but just so much more reliable in my opinion.

Yes - you’ve got to grind away part of the y casting with an angle grinder to get it to fit.

@@adamdebowski2037 yes I know that, but I mean the Y ball screw. There isn't space to thread it through with the mill assembled right? You had to take apart your mill and put it in from underneath?

@@Phiz787 yes - I had the mill totally disassembles. X & Y tables off the machine, column off the machine, head off the column. Makes it easier to handle all the weight too.

@@adamdebowski2037 ah ok. Thanks. Any idea what size those giant bolts are in the back, holding up the Z column? Or maybe... An Allen key comes with the mill...I'll check the toolbox.

You bet! Love his work, and he's a super smart guy that gives back to this community all the time.

@@adamdebowski2037 Yeah I love his and I have a feeling I'm going to like yours too. Especially if you have a better upload scheduled xD

@@paulwilson2204 lol - guilty as charged!

Absolutely! After the giveaway, I'll be selling a few more out of the batch, and will make an announcement about it on the channel.... and yes - I'm Polish :)

@@adamdebowski2037 No to chce jeden :)

Hi Michael - the scales are made from a tough and resilient composite caled “G10.” It’s the same stuff most circuit boards are printed on!

@@adamdebowski2037 Thanks. Beautiful knives.

Hi Tom - I've been a dialer user of 3D design software for many years - but only recently got into milling CAM & machining (2-3 years ago) - so I'm still new to a lot of this stuff!

Good eye ;)

Thanks!

Haha, thank you! I'll be selling a few of these off & will find some way to tell you about it! Will likely be an announcement on the channel. Thanks for the interest, Adam!

Thanks for the interest! Just subscribed to your channel - I don't often see people machining out of wood on these mills, but it looks like it works well. I was always curious about the low rpm and how it would work in wood.

@@adamdebowski2037 thank you, i can take really heavy cuts in wood no problem , just thought it might be cool with a wood handle on your knives

@@makosharkcnc7730 I've thought the same thing! Some nice, stabilized, something fancy would be awesome. I wonder if machining M6 threads into hardwood would work... hmmmm

@@adamdebowski2037 let me ask how much movement do you have in the z axis? i have quiet a bit i was thinking of using brass shim to tight it up

Hi Dustin - sorry for the late reply. There's an instagram account if you're interested - @adamd_cnc. Cheers!

Oof that would be a tough one. Have you tried machining steel with it?

@@adamdebowski2037I haven't no, it's new to me. Though I do have high hopes, especially if I can cut 26c3. It's a nice simple carbon, and even if it comes close to target no matter how slow it would be good.

@@8thsinner Nice! If you have a hard time you might have some more luck with smaller tools. They like the higher RPMs and don’t need much rigidity. It’ll be slow going but it should work. Good luck and let me know how you do!

@@adamdebowski2037 Do you mean like using 1/8th, 1/16th bits? Because theres less torque > less flex > less risk??? The worry isn't so much the cutting it's the cutting without fluid. Winston moy managed to cut I think a1 or o 1 with his nomad shapeoko however thats quite a rigid machine, even though the onefiity is beefy as hell, it's spread out over long rails... What bits, speeds and feeds would you suggest I start with? I haven't had feedback frmo anyone yet whos done it, only suggestions of going very shallow with low stepovers like 10-20%, and no more than two flutes, likely o flutes

I would probably start with a 3/16 4 Flute solid carbide endmill. Take 0.001” feed per tooth and start with a 0.010” stepover if you’re going 3/16 deep. If that works nice, increase the stepover to 0.020. I don’t think you’ll take much more than that but it’s just a guess!

You're in the hat! Thanks for the interest :)