Can you make a youtube video about how you did that?

@@user-tc6ji4iw4p I’ve never done a tutorial video but I can upload a quickie showing what I am talking about.

@@user-tc6ji4iw4p I uploaded a quick video showing my shield press on the schreckpmc channel. It includes examples of shields made with it. I did not get as good of a curvature as I would have liked. Probably because I didn’t keep them in the press long enough.

There are services you can literally pay to get subscribers. He obviously does not use that service. His total appears lower, but it is a real quantity of actual people, not bots.

yeah, that helps, but I only do that on more complex shapes. The problem is that it could thinnen your glue down if you're not careful.

Actually no leather hides where used, only Rawhides. The only difference you got with the meat and smooth side in that case is the roughness of the surface. Caus you want a flat surface to paint on, and a rough one in order to have a larger connecting surface for the main gluing process, it only makes sense to put the meatside towards the wooden core :)

Hi! I also fought in many different disciplines (buhurt, VK, reenactment, CB, show fight) , but only since 9 years so faar. If you don't have to wear VK-armor and only chainmail+ gambeson + open helmet you got more energie reserves. A shoulder strap makes a HUGE difference and in addition with the variation of handeling it works. Especially because you also can carry the shield way closer to your body, caus of it's size, what also makes the shoulder strap even more efficient. The customer is, in fact so satisfied, that he allready orderd a second one. But only 110cm high, not because of the weight, but because 1.: he likes it so much that he doesn't want to risk to damage it in battle 2.: his training partners complained caus it's so efficient. For what do you use your shields precisely and how many layers of fabrik do you need? Which kind of wood do you use? Could you please tell me the weight and measurements of one of your shields, so that we can scale those up as reference?

@@TheShieldery sounds good. Yeah i just want you to try out make a thinner shield, i try to get hands of a plywood thats made of birch or ash depending on what the supplier of wood got in stock but both works, we have one that is with really thin layers and like 6-8 layers, it makes it hold up really good, i dont have eny kite shield atm but i will make one and in the same way u did with rope and then the hemp strap around it becous that looks sick dude! But if u want and have eny other contact area i can send you pictures of my progress of my new shield when i start it. :) The fabric depends, linnen tight waved linnen fabric works great but also a thicker cotton canvas i have used and it worked out fine, but i prefer linnen. Also if u gonna have a unpainted shield linnen looks better. What dimentions is that kite shield in the video? :) And how tall are you?

@@simonfranzen9514 I was on a festieval when you commented, sorry I forgott to answhere till now 😅 . the Shield measures 135 x 75 cm. I am 180cm tall.

I agree to simonfranzen, 7kg is way to much. my experience so far: combine woods, front: birch 3,5mm, inside: poplar 4mm don't put a layer of fabrics between the wood plates, if extra fabric is necessary put an extra layer at the front for a kite with a height of 125cm and width around 76cm you can get from 3,5kg to4kg, much weight comes by rawhide, use them as small as possible (don't get me wrong, use thick material but cut stripes in maximum of 5cm broad, just to get around the edges)

Thanks! The customer is very happy and says it works very good in fight even over a longer time. That means it works :) .

That's actually a methode I tried when I started to apply the rope. The Problems with that where: 1.: It's very difficult/Impossible for not parallel edges, which you usally have on a shield. The string just slides down towards the tip caus the shield gets slimmer in that direction, but that halfway could be fixed with a lot of effort; But how would you string the rope on the round top or bottom? 2.: The rims are not paralell to echother on the shields middle part; they are always in a right degree angle to the bent surface and therefor, if you add force in the direction of the other edge, the edge-rope would tend to slip to the shields backside; sometimes more, sometimes less, depending on the broadth of the shield. That makes the edge and the shield as a whole ugly in the end, lowers the funktion and makes the gluing so much more difficult. 3.: you can't hold the edge-rope in place, when you are only halfway done and not finished with the hole edge. Becaus of that it could fall down when the glue is not sticking immidiatly. Caus of that you also can't bring a tension the edge-rope, caus it would just slip off on the top You see, I got the same idea as you when I started and I can only advice you to go with the tape as a Beginner. Thank's for writing that comment! I thought about mentioning those Problems and my personal thinking process in the video but then decided to eddit it out. Now people who read the comments and are interested got the chance of reading it here!

@@TheShieldery hey I'm glad you tried it out at least! Just discovered your channel, you make GREAT content. Definitely relaxing. Thank you!

ok; haven't heard that bevore; what would be the benefit? I mean; the glue needs air to dry, so I don't think it would be possible in a vacuum bag?

I do my shields is a very similar way but on the last one I tried covering it with a few layers of PVA to protect the paint, works amazingly, until something a little bit wet comes nearby and the shields becomes white with fear!

Thank you!!! I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu". You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D. I usually apply one layer on the Back before placing the fittings and two layers on the Front after i Finish the Paintjob. Have fun! :)

A matt, water based one. the brand was marabu, but it isn't available on amazon anymore since aview weeks. Now I try the one from Creative Deco and it looks good so faar ;) .

Yeah, linseed oil varnish is not that good for that purpose. I used a matt acrylic varnish. I'd recommend the one from "Creative Deco", or "Marabu". You could also use the acrylic binder as a varnish directly, like Dispersion K 498, or 500D. Have fun! :)

Indeed! So technical mechanics wasn't a waste of time after all XD

Hi Dimitry! I will come to hattin, but this shield would be waaaay to big for the luggage :( . Besides that I'm not as good as you guys whaen it comes to heat resistance XD.

@@TheShieldery Ok, see you soon!

Nice Idea, but they firstly could split the wood and also would rub through the other two textile layers above (on this shield only 1) when getting hit, instantly. You'd also need Upholstery nails or similar, caus otherwise the nailhead would slip through the rope. But even then you wouldn't have the large preassure area you would have with my two other methods. Till now even with hellbard impact and striking with the shield in Buhurt with full force, not a single rope got loose and slipped over the edge. And The oldest shields are now in use for 7 Years. I think in the first year I sold only 10 buhurt striking shields, but that still gives a good picture ;) I also thought about the nail option a lot though when I started XD . It took me a long time to figure out the one I'm using right now. In any case, thanks for watching my videos and leaving a comment, don't think I didn't notice ;) hehe And if you got other ideas or questions, feel free to ask! :)

@@TheShieldery thnx for your detailed reply! =) Yeah that is true it would crack the plywood more easily when using a too big of a nail. And didn't think about the rubbing through the fabrics. Cool to hear it is that durable!

No, don't to that! After applying the oil, the glue wouldn't be able to make a conection anymore!

Thanks for your honest feedback! How many people do you know, that got an empty iron barrel with a nice circumference? 1 of 100 ? I know that you can also use only 2 times 3mm; but not if you want to fight with it. The shield would just break in two pieces the first time you fall on it. Yes, mine is curved less then what you can see on most sources (not all though!) of the kite shield. I think the main reason for that huge curfature was that it can deflect stings and projectiles way easyer. But that's not important in modern medieval battles. Now it makes more sense to get a broader cover from all the possible hits from the front. I also never claimed to make a historical or accurate replike btw. ;) . What sizes where your LARP shields? Would you really use only 2 * 3mm plates if you want to use it for fighting regularly in modern medieval battles and in training against the cheap, heavy 2-3mm Impact edge swords, as well as larger Axes? Would your construction resist the case I describe at 5:36 ? :) From my experience the answere is a clear no. I even create new customers for myself by breaking those with my buhurt Falchion. Or by targeting the edge directly if it's only protected with some fabrik of course ;).

@@TheShieldery 1. One old rusty barrel, which cost 0 euros, was used by about 15 people :). Iron barrels with different diameters can also be bought new if you don't mind going to a scrap metal collection point. Also, four plywood boards for two shields can be pulled around one barrel in one time, four blanks (shield) can be made in a day, about 20 min of work in total (gluing the slats to the boards and tightening the car load belts). 2. 2x3 mm plywood, covered with a decent cloth, (edge: leather covered with cloth)- mine lasted a good amount of fighting, winter, sledding down the hill and held all halberds, falchions and clubs. Rare, in some places, the edge of the halberd came through about 1 cm - I don't care. After PVA glue and fabric again, everything is fine. When covered with 2-3 mm of rawhide, nothing happened. 3. The main purpose of this curvature is better shielding of the fighter and shock absorption. .... ("A very curved shield and a more elastic (thinner) shield absorb impacts better because they function like a spring. (strength theory). When an impact occurs, the curved shape and elasticity allow the shield to deform and then return to its original shape, dissipating the energy of the impact over a larger area and a longer period of time.... This reduces the force felt at any single point, making the shield more effective at protecting the user. Additionally, it reduces impact stress on the shield arm, causing the arm to tire less quickly".) 4. I understood that you did not mean a historical report. :), that's why I offered a simpler option on how to bend plywood :) 5. have been participating in various tournaments since the late 90s.. :) The shields have withstood the buhurt blows of the Eastern Slavic warriors, skandinavian berserkers, deutsche ritters... in Kohotun, Viipuri (Vyburg), Irboska (Izborsk), Köningsberg (Kaliningrad), different events in Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Sweden usw. I've also had sometimes fun with a... 3mm plywood shield in full viking full combat with steel weapons. Seeing this, they tried to deliberately break the shield - and it ended....they cut into the shield of their sword and then watch with a stupid face as it is twisted from their hands. :) Yes, such a shield can withstand 1-2 fights, but so what. I'll get a new shield for the next fight - the shield is an expendable item :) 6. If you come to the Wollin (Wolin) Viking Festival this year, I promise you to demolish my shield - if I'm holding it :). It is easy to find me there, there are few of us Estonians there.

@@heikkipaltser1829 1. in Estonia it might be the case, but not in (south-west) Germany. :( 2. Juuuuust to be sure; we are talking about Popplar plywood (as I used it in the video) here? As you also know from the video, I am selling those shields. I can't and don't want to offer products that will have to be repaired after every first or second fight. In addition the varnish you need for the customers coat of arms makes it impossible to apply another layer of fabrik after the end of the paint job... Which would also cover up the coat of arms :( ... 3. Yeah, sure; but doesn't that make your arm vibrate quite hard with every hit? I am on bord with the "momentum of inertia" (google translate that, I would have never gussed that therm) which is caused by the larger cross-section, but that's not important when it comes to the shields structural strenghth in the example I mentioned in my last response with the time mark. The curvature actually worsens the Leverage. ;) about 5. : nice to hear, but see my response about point 2. ;) 6. thank you for the offer, but that's not my historical time frame and an over 9 hour drive away from my position :( . I'm not gonna do that because of an argument over the internet XD ;) . If you want you could make a testing video about your shield though. If you'll do that, please explain your shields construction in detail in order to make sure that no misunderstandings happen. My falchion is one of the kind of the Maciejowski Bible btw. :)

@@TheShieldery Ich verstehe die Unterschiede, die Sie berücksichtigen müssen, und ich verstehe, warum dies das Richtige für Sie ist. Ich wollte nicht streiten,..mmm... ich dachte, ich würde eine Idee teilen - über eine Alternative zum Biegen von Sperrholz. Wir haben Birke und Kiefer verwendet, Pappel ist in Estland Mangelware und sehr teuer,....Die Vibration des Schildes stört nicht wesentlich, solche stechenden Schläge ermüden die Hand Ja, Wollin ist auch weit für uns und Stuttgart ist noch weiter... Ich war schon ein paar Mal... vor langer Zeit, als ich für ein Uni-Praktikum in Trier war und ich werde es sicher nicht schaffen dieses Jahr. Aber nächstes Jahr ist geplant, einen Roadtrip nach Portugal zu machen, warum nicht durch den Schwarzwald und Stuttgart fahren :)

I am afraid I need more context to understand the question?

yes, I did, but it isn't tutorial ready yet ;) .

@@TheShieldery awesome! Can't wait for it

which sheets? you mean the wood? Yes, a bit but then the glue wouldn't be that effictive caus it gets thinned down and needs like three times as long to dry.

It was " Ponal classic Holzleim ". Just white, not water tight pva glue :) . Or technically speaking White Wood glue which fulfilles, DIN EN 204 with the resistance class of D 2

It is a shield from the 11th and 12th centuries, but larger according to my combat tactics in 1 vs 1 or group combat combined with spearmen. 😊

it's indeed earlier, a main source is the Bayeux Tapestry :) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kite_shield#/media/File:Bayeuxtapestryscene52.jpg

​@@TheShieldery yes, like I said. eleventh century, the bayeux carpet is from 1070, so eleventh century. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I klicked on reply to HMMM ; seems like he didn't got tagged by that. Your right of course, sorry for the inconveniance.

@@TheShieldery Very good, I got it now that I was not addressed... 🤣🤣

Thank you! The straps are precisely on the scenter of gravity. If they would be higher the shield would always tip forward from the users point of view and hit the owen shins. What do you mean with the straps are to modern? 😅 the leather is vegetable tanned and the holes positions are directly copied from the shield of arnold von brienz: www.e-periodica.ch/cntmng?pid=zak-003:1951:12::424

@@TheShieldery they are pretty sophisticated and based on a knightky shield of the 14th century. The shield was in use up until roughly 1180, where the top of the "norman" shield (dragon, drop or kite shield) got flattened - although earlier examples of flat topped kite shields do exist. During that time, straps were more simple. Don't get me wrong it looks awesome, is extremely well made and will certainly be very handy for the fighter. The position of the straps looked awkward, because you certainly had trouble with vision. It might be a lots better for the actual user.

how large is your kite shield? at a certain sice you need to go thicker.

@@TheShieldery It's roughly 120cm tall and a roughly 50cm wide, it seems to be holding up quite nicely and i also rimmed it with leather on the edges and added 2 straps for me to hold it in combat. (It was a little tricky to measure how wide it is due to its curvature though and because of that curvature its also hard to put a boss on it).

Nice, that's quite large. How thick is your shield then? with the three 4 mm thick boards I used in the video I am up to 12mm. Yours sound nice all in all :) @@blooky102

@@TheShieldery Ohh yours is 12mm? I think I misjudged the thickness of your shield, mine is 17mm but if you take away the 2mm x2 thickness of the leather around the edge it should be 13mm. XD my bad sorry (also I re-measured the shield width and its 600mm I think I was sleepy and I measured it too high up before). The leather for my rimming I did was veg tan leather that was soaked over night in a bucket of water and then clamped on the edges of the shield when it dried. ^^

@@blooky102 Ah, nice. I don't like the leather or rawhide edge to be honest. The problem is, that if it gets damaged you can't repair it and is in most cases the reason why a shield gets replaced. With my method you can just overpaint a possible damage and glue a possible loosend up fabrik piece again. In addition the strenghtened edge wasn't used on historic pieces. On todays battel reenactments it's very important though and therefor yhould be covered up in my oppinion, which isn't possible with the leather or rawhide enforcement. But caus that's brodly acepted in our community, I don't really men that as a criticism, I just wanted to mention it 😅😅

Is this a propper translation? : "The result was a heavy piece of junk with a missing shock-absorbing cushion. The hand will be very happy." If yes, I am sad to hear that :( . The it's the gambesons job to absorb the shock and on museum pieces cushions where not that commen and if they where, they only padded the back of your hand. As you can see in the video, I actually installed one of those. So it's not missing, you mayby just think it's to small, because it doesn't cover the forarm? If you want to change your arms Position something like that would be way over the top. Actually the customer is extremly happy and allready ordered a second one :) .

@@TheShieldery In appearance, the edge of the shield is 15+ millimeters, which is excessively heavy for such a large shield. The client is apparently a thrill-seeker, but this is before the first dislocation)

bit to heavy, I think yes, pure junk? no, just a few things I and some doing in a different way