The Strength You Need to Climb the Hardest Grades (9C Test)

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Catalyst Climbing

Catalyst Climbing

Күн бұрын

This week we are seeing how strong Louis ACTUALLY is with the 9c Strength Test created by Stian Christopherson and Martin Mobraten with the points system below!
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Team:
Louis Parkinson - / captaincutloose
Sam Douglas-Jones - / samdj_
Edit by Solomon Stott - / solomon.films
Filmed at Vauxwall West Climbing Centre in London, U.K.
00:00 Intro
02:45 Max Pull Ups
06:20 Max Finger Strength
10:36 Core Strength
11:50 Hang from Bar
13:22 Outro
Points:
40=9c // 39=9b+ // 38=9b // 37=9b // 36=9a+ // 35=9a+ // 34=9a // 33=9a // 32=8c+ // 31=8c+ // 30=8c // 29=8c // 28=8b+ // 27=8b+ // 26=8b // 25=8b // 24=8a+ // 23=8a+ // 22=8a // 21=8a // 20=7c+ // 19=7c+ // 18=7c // 17=7c // 16=7b+ // 15=7b+ // 14=7b // 13=7b // 12=7a+ // 11=7a+ // 10=7a // 9=7a // 8=6c+ // 7=6c+ // 6=6c // 5=6c // 4=6b // 3=6b // 2=6a // 1=6a //
Exercise 1/4: Max pull-up (one rep)
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 2/4: Max finger strength; Approximately 20 mm crimp for 5 seconds
1 Point = 100% (body-weight)
2 Points = 110%
3 Points = 120%
4 Points = 130 %
5 Points = 140 %
6 Points = 150%
7 Points = 160%
8 Points = 180%
9 Points = 200%
10 Points = 220%
Exercise 3/4: Core strength
1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
7 Points = 5 sec front lever
8 Points = 10 sec front lever
9 Points = 20 sec front lever
10 Points = 30 sec front lever
Exercise 4/4: Hang from bar
1 Point = 30 sec
2 Points = 1 min
3 Points = 1,5 min
4 Points = 2 min
5 Points = 2,5 min
6 Points = 3 min
7 Points = 3,5 min
8 Points = 4 min
9 Points = 5 min
10 Points = 6 min
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Пікірлер: 111
@LostinYTblackhole
@LostinYTblackhole 3 ай бұрын
Just remember, Adam Ondra can’t even do a front lever. So if you score terribly on this test it is no way a determining factor in your ability to chase high grades. And the same can be said in reverse. No matter how wel you do on the test it won’t make up for terrible flexibility, route reading, and other factors that the test can’t analyze
@HourRomanticist
@HourRomanticist 3 ай бұрын
This is an interesting part of Silence. Ondra got around doing a front lever by essentially doing a human flag on the upsidedown bit. There are ways around it. On Silence in particular, the majority of his weight was on his foot once he got into position. In other routes on overhang, it might not be possible.
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 3 ай бұрын
Front lever is a particularly stupid excercise in this strength test. First of all, it's a pulling/back excercise, not a core excercise. Secondly, it's very morpho (short people = easy, tall people = insanely hard) Weighted pull ups and weighted hangs are good excercises, but you're right that strength isn't everything
@dylanshenton6001
@dylanshenton6001 3 ай бұрын
Jonny Dawes is a bang average climber according to these tests.
@wayne3594
@wayne3594 3 ай бұрын
@@matemindak384 the whole test is stupid not just the front lever part lol
@chaozzah
@chaozzah 3 ай бұрын
People are really missing the "STRENGTH" component in this. This test was, more of a fun than an entirely serious and scientific, way of testing if you have the STRENGTH needed to climb certain grades. So, by that theory, Louis is STRONG enough to climb a 9a sport. I fully agree, I don't doubt he'd have any issues in the power department, especially as a boulderer. Hell, I reckon he'd flash 8a-8b sport even without extra endurance draining, just from his climbing style and power.
@climbing_thomas
@climbing_thomas 3 ай бұрын
now we just need ink's 9C strength test!
@barrycox7922
@barrycox7922 3 ай бұрын
Ink has nothing to prove, he's a cat!
@colemantrebor6574
@colemantrebor6574 3 ай бұрын
Louis please contact Storror to collab with them! They've been doing a bit of it outside, and you would be the perfect person to guide them around a gym, especially with your dynamic style which will suit them.
@coolloafofbread6462
@coolloafofbread6462 3 ай бұрын
seconding this, it'd be an incredible collab!
@finnplanb3
@finnplanb3 3 ай бұрын
the energy from both channels would be good together too!
@durabelle
@durabelle 3 ай бұрын
Yes, I've been asking Storror to collab with Louis too, would be a brilliant video! Especially now that they need to beat the Bobats the next time they go buildering, they could use some technique drills!
@jacks7991
@jacks7991 3 ай бұрын
Agreed! What a fun colab
@benapstein1182
@benapstein1182 3 ай бұрын
This would be my favorite KZfaq video ever made! Please someone make this happen!
@popcorny007
@popcorny007 3 ай бұрын
Important note about the 9C test, the maximum grade assumes PERFECT technique. So 100% max effort & zero wasted energy ~= the assigned grade.
@mairsilpretner6119
@mairsilpretner6119 3 ай бұрын
Yes, or in other words the test only shows you if you have the physical strength required for those grades. And it at least suggests that if you're not actually reaching those grades, the solution is improving technique, and not adding more strength.
@hotharvey2
@hotharvey2 3 ай бұрын
63kg + 60kg pull up is insane and puts into perspective how weak I am 😅
@MrApetape
@MrApetape 3 ай бұрын
*how strong Louis is! Youre not weak (:
@user-ih3jl9um6e
@user-ih3jl9um6e 3 ай бұрын
Remember that Will Bosi just about pulled 170% bw shortly after doing bourden of dreams...
@WillFromFinland
@WillFromFinland 3 ай бұрын
Louis is so goofy and entertaining! Thanks for all the great content!
@phillipelapierre3821
@phillipelapierre3821 3 ай бұрын
Let's see some 8c+ route attempts!
@Fred-oz3tw
@Fred-oz3tw 3 ай бұрын
thank you for sharing that you had a cold for a week :) i am at the exact same point and need motivation to get going again now :)
@mattgough6470
@mattgough6470 3 ай бұрын
Great video Louis! Love your content.
@manicantsettleonausername6789
@manicantsettleonausername6789 3 ай бұрын
Well done Louis!
@nandovancreij
@nandovancreij 3 ай бұрын
7:02 THATS SO SMART WHY HAVENT I THOUGHT OF THAT
@JimmyHooves
@JimmyHooves 3 ай бұрын
Literally gonna start doing it 😂
@machine_learning_engineering
@machine_learning_engineering 2 ай бұрын
The pull up pass criteria should change. I would use chest to bar as the benchmark (mostly engaging your lats) instead of chin over bar (engaging shoulders/uneven pulling).
@jeannemattson2012
@jeannemattson2012 3 ай бұрын
crazy that lois can pullup that much weight after a week of being sick! such a beast😄
@janeroth8511
@janeroth8511 2 ай бұрын
Louis can literally do a pullup pulling him and my body weight at the same time and I can't even do a bodyweight pullup😂
@davidhelman3045
@davidhelman3045 3 ай бұрын
This test is cool, but it heavily favor's gym-bro calisthenics people like myself. So I have been climbing for about 8 years but have done like 25 years of weight and calisthenics training, so my physical strength far outclasses my actual climbing ability. I scored a 28, or an 8b+ on this test, which in our American terms is a 5.14a, but I have never climbed harder than a 7c, or 5.12c, which is a huuuuge difference. Now I know the test technically just estimates what your maximum potential is according to your physical limits, which may be slightly more accurate if you have 'perfect' climbing form (as if that is really definable). It is a fun test none-the-less.
@yogimojo4685
@yogimojo4685 2 ай бұрын
well done on the new pb! Why not come and compete in the Tor over in MK's Big Rock if your around, you know you love to crush new gyms!
@jneumonik
@jneumonik 2 ай бұрын
Wow really impressive lever! Better form than them all.
@Schebrl
@Schebrl 3 ай бұрын
Great you guys shot another video years after part 1, great update
@rmplstltskn5548
@rmplstltskn5548 3 ай бұрын
Well done on the gains! Do you feel like they have translated to the wall?
@lizabethsmith2832
@lizabethsmith2832 3 ай бұрын
So strong! But I'd love to see more of Ink and his climbing progress.
@wisconsinair
@wisconsinair 2 ай бұрын
And how’s the camera man’s climbing profession too??
@andrelima262
@andrelima262 3 ай бұрын
Cool video, but isn't the Hangboard test supposed to be done on Half-crimp? Thanks again for the content!
@dustinbrandt9864
@dustinbrandt9864 3 ай бұрын
Would love to see you do a video with Magnus
@markusmuller65656
@markusmuller65656 3 ай бұрын
Is that a grunge chalk bag ? Own one myself and love it
@Claudia18915
@Claudia18915 3 ай бұрын
I love how Louis’ definition of rested is ‘I’ve been ill and haven’t trained for a week’
@JippaJ
@JippaJ 3 ай бұрын
What trousers are you wearing? They look really cool.
@wisconsinair
@wisconsinair 2 ай бұрын
I would love a video of Louis lead climbing…
@alvin001122
@alvin001122 3 ай бұрын
Hi Louis, how much could you half crimp block pull off the ground please?
@maciejszpakowski9037
@maciejszpakowski9037 3 ай бұрын
According to the scores I should be doing 7b. I did 7a+ once but anything 7a or better is still very hard for me.
@Fella_friend
@Fella_friend 2 ай бұрын
For me I found that this is quite accurate to my strength for dynos but for static climbs my strength is actually quite a bit higher in climbing
@ontheballcity71
@ontheballcity71 3 ай бұрын
That's the emptiest I've seen Vauxwall.
@user-bb8pv5nv5l
@user-bb8pv5nv5l 2 ай бұрын
Are you sure about edge you hanging on? Cause my 1000 beastmaker low side edges have 15mm😅 Or you desided to make test harder?
@denislejeune9218
@denislejeune9218 2 ай бұрын
Not sure how to interpret my test results. My max route is 7b, on vert. I got 16pts, so 7b+. So it would suggest I am a bad climber, in the sense that I can't optimise my physical strengths. But where it gets interesting is that I could only do bodyweight on the 20mm. Given that all my proj are crimpy, that would suggest I m climbing stronger than what my fingers should allow. So, am I shit or just weak? 😂
@plastikmaiden
@plastikmaiden 3 ай бұрын
Great effort! The front lever is an impressive skill...but is more of a lat than a core exercise.
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 3 ай бұрын
Exactly, and its difficulty is also very dependent on how tall you are, which makes it a very dumb excercise for a test like this
@fredrik3614
@fredrik3614 3 ай бұрын
You can't do a front lever without a strong core though, but yeah it works a bunch of muscles
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 3 ай бұрын
@@fredrik3614 but saying that front lever is a core excercise is like saying push ups are a leg excercise, nobody fails pushups because their leg gets tired😂😂
@JustinCasey216
@JustinCasey216 2 ай бұрын
wasnt the 9c test created by magnus?
@robwaring3248
@robwaring3248 3 ай бұрын
Very random question, but how tall are you Louis?
@Jadelious
@Jadelious 3 ай бұрын
Funny thing the small thumbnail made me do a double take, it looked like Louis had water coming out his pants at first great video as always!
@jakobbauz
@jakobbauz 3 ай бұрын
Why do you have Ghisolfi with a "9a+" in the thumbnail? The guy climbed Bibliographie...
@CatalystClimbing
@CatalystClimbing 3 ай бұрын
Those grades are based on their results of the 9C strength test…
@jakobbauz
@jakobbauz 3 ай бұрын
@@CatalystClimbing Ah ok. Nevermind me.
@srStinnky
@srStinnky 2 ай бұрын
Nice one but to be honest 4:14 is not a proper pull up, eh? ;)
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 3 ай бұрын
am I the only one who is triggered by everyone saying front lever is a "core excercise"?
@jswave08
@jswave08 3 ай бұрын
Yeah no that's stupid. I guess they couldn't come up with a harder and easily measurable option to test core strength. I think for core in particular, it's even more complex than other aspects to find an exercise that kind of simulates and measures how well you apply core strength/body tension on the wall...
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 3 ай бұрын
@@jswave08 dragon flag is "the same" body position as front lev, except its actually a core excercise. then there's leg raises which are very hard to do cleanly, plank variations, and ab rollers. its easy to split any of these excercises into different progressions, and anybody can try them. if the problem is that these arent hard enough (which isnt true btw), they simply shouldnt worth as many points as fingerstrength and pulling strength
@colemantrebor6574
@colemantrebor6574 3 ай бұрын
​@@matemindak384the problem with assigning less points is that you then assume core strength is less important for climbing a higher grade, which is arguably not true
@matemindak384
@matemindak384 2 ай бұрын
@@colemantrebor6574 so you think that someone with a very strong core and weak fingers can climb as hard as someone with very stong fingers and a weaker core? cause I'm definitely betting on the person with strong fingers
@colemantrebor6574
@colemantrebor6574 2 ай бұрын
@@matemindak384 Well as mentioned the front lever tests more than just core, its also a good indicator for body tension for example. On some climbs finger strength might be more important but others I think body tension and core are more important
@fastasasloth
@fastasasloth 3 ай бұрын
The best predictor of performance is performance itself... :) Has the hardest grade you can climb gone up since the last series of tests, and does that grade equate with the prediction from the tests?
@lugas4270
@lugas4270 2 ай бұрын
alright alright I'm happy with that but errrghhhh
@eliascastel118
@eliascastel118 2 ай бұрын
Keep in mind that Louis is 5"XX, if you're taller than 6"you might have a stronger core than him but you're loooong legs will make it muuuuuuuuch harder for you to front lever. Adam Ondra can't do a front lever.
@wayne3594
@wayne3594 3 ай бұрын
Emil crushed Louis in the previous video where they climbed together and yet scores much worse in these metrics than him.
@NinjasMovieChanel
@NinjasMovieChanel 2 ай бұрын
Louis kinda reminds me of W2S😅
@nicolasgomez6731
@nicolasgomez6731 3 ай бұрын
I just scored 19 points and I barely climb 6c 😭😭
@Oguzhandogada
@Oguzhandogada 3 ай бұрын
fınger strength part isnt that half crimp or any type of hanging is ok ?
@timothywang7245
@timothywang7245 3 ай бұрын
i think its a 20mm edge for 5 secs
@eb2500
@eb2500 3 ай бұрын
20 mm
@Lumi_nance
@Lumi_nance 2 ай бұрын
but he is half crimping?
@Oguzhandogada
@Oguzhandogada 2 ай бұрын
@@Lumi_nance no he isnt some fingers bend
@Lumi_nance
@Lumi_nance 2 ай бұрын
@@Oguzhandogada yes, thats why it is called (half)crimp, otherwise it would be open hand
@maikaphillips3083
@maikaphillips3083 3 ай бұрын
STORROR ARMY
@resiliencevideos
@resiliencevideos 2 ай бұрын
bro can pull as much as me while being 30kg lighter lmao
@buildingstufflike
@buildingstufflike 2 ай бұрын
Why are your weights so ridiculously large for their weight?
@maxdilcon5679
@maxdilcon5679 3 ай бұрын
8b+ in reality 7b sport v10 boulder lol
@sikerow3180
@sikerow3180 2 ай бұрын
This man is 33?
@jean-louismaheu3274
@jean-louismaheu3274 2 ай бұрын
for the pull ups. I totally disagree with you. You may be able to lift (almost) 50K and more but only once. And using your lower body to attach all the weight is not right, imagine the stress you put on the middle of your body, the spine and all. A person may have strong legs and a strong upper body but if the middle is injured somehow, you are useless. Why not using a weighted vest, let say 25K and do 20 pull up. Don’t you think this will classify for a 9C test.
@tomriddle2257
@tomriddle2257 3 ай бұрын
First 😂
@pot-8-o564
@pot-8-o564 3 ай бұрын
Voldemort!
@gingobingo1567
@gingobingo1567 3 ай бұрын
Voldemort!
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