The very last example is interesting. Never thought about using a stand alone support then removing it. Has anyone made videos of examples of this process?

That pla overhang on tpu caught me off guard. That was nice.

That last one was by far the best! The rest I either knew or already used.

The pause to add supports made from another material is an interesting one that I'd not considered before, definitely interesting applications could be made with that one.

That extreme overhang support is an brilliant idea 💡

putting the electronics inside the case while printing is one of the best ideas.

The very last tip, blew my mind due to the simplicity of it. Felt like "the egg of Columbus"! Congrats!

Inserting magnets with the color switch feature is awesome, I’ve done it a few times and it always turns out so nice

Unrelated but the fact prusa is a S.T.A.L.K.E.R fan makes me really happy

WOW! I never thought of any of these Ideas. I never knew PrusaSlicer could do that!!

Discovered that last tip a few years ago and it blew my mind. Super underrated. I have a production part with a large overhang (lots of wasted material in supports). Insert a PLA puck right before the overhang and boom, saved print time and material. If only I could automate the insertion process...

the last example is mind blowing!

The last one was brilliant

Brilliant! I didn't know most of these. Opens up a whole new level of printing for me!

Super kudos to the person that dreamt up the last one.

As others have said, that last one was not expected. I was literally thinking about trying to print a really complex model in TPU and went "nah, the supports alone wouldn't be worth the effort to try and remove... and that assumes it succeeds", but with that method... I may have to rethink it.

Just in time for some new ideas for christmas, thanks for the great inspirational video!

This is mind blowing, even when I'm familliar with this feature I never thought about all those extra things I can do with it - Prusa you guys are the best

One thing to note: when using the glue stick on the magnets to help stick, it is better to do it before putting the part into the print. Any gluestick on the print will act like PVA supports preventing the layers from fusing to eachother.

As usual prusa setting the gold standard in hobby printing

excellent tips, well explained! 👏😌

Alright, that last one is pretty darned genius! All of these are really good! Thanks for your tireless work to improve the technology and community!

That last tip though 👍👍👍

You just safe me a ton of time flament. Thank you

I have never considered using this before, what a GREAT idea. I really like the prospects of pausing the print to add nuts, then printing around them. This may be a way better alternative to using the brass threaded inserts, no more burning myself on the old soldering iron. I also like the magnet idea. Thanks again for the tips, looking forward to adding this to my future prints. :)

ok that last trick of adding a support just blew my brain! I think I am going to design and print that same part to understand it my self.

that’s it I’m deleting cura and moving on to prusa. Absolutely love it!

Wonderful! Lots of good stuff here!

Wow... great ideas!!! This is fantastic!

Oh my gosh! Using pre printed objects as a support...that's brilliant!!!

Detachable (and possibly reusable!) supports idea was really mindblowing. It actually solved a problem I was being pondering upon lately :))

First I thought, hey I use these features already, but then came the last one, with the pre-printed support with another material which won't stick. Never thought about it! Thanks for sharing!

🤯 about support block, I’ve done all mentioned above but never even thought of the last one, brilliant

Great video. So many great ideas.

Thank you, as always you guys are the best.

With the stand alone supports, one should use a glue stick layer or blue tape after the stand alone support is in place before resuming the print to the support does not fuse if the stand alone support is made of the same material as the model.

This just blew my mind (again) with the power of simple software changes! Would love to see even more printing tips!

Clicked for S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Faction patches, stayed for the knowledge.

That last hack is incredible thank you.

Good practical, "Why did I not think of that" always get me inspired, answers looking for a problem.

so many great ideas in this

This is awesome... thanks for sharing!! The embedded LEDs were sick.

Oh my... This tips are really great! Thanks

adding custom support ... wow, great idea

Great tips! Very inspiring.

I love the TPU hack.

I have used these features for years. Love them.

Again, great job Mikolas! It‘s amazing what you can do with this feature, especially the supports for TPU caught me!

That overhang idea is awesome

Holy crap, that last one is ingenious!

The last idea was my favorite 🙂

Great video jam packed with great examples most people wouldn't consider. I tried manually editing G code to pause the print years ago before slicers supported this feature, so I could add a magnet to be encapsulated inside the part. The magnet flew up and stuck to the print head and crashed the printer. Then I tried a drop of 5 minute epoxy but the hot part thinned the epoxy which wicked through the part and cemented it to the glass print bed. I generally glue my fingers together with super glue but this looks like a good application for it. I have always preferred glue stick to hair spray but to increase adhesion on top of magnets, I think I'll place paper over a steel sheet, arrange magnets on the sheet, spray them with hair spray (well away from the printer), then place the magnets hair spray up into the 3D printed parts, discarding the paper to avoid a messy buildup of hairspray on the steel sheet. I wonder if a light mist of spray adhesive would work in this permanent application. I can't wait to embed stainless steel nuts and electronics. Thanks!

Awesome ideas and tipps!!! Thanks a lot!!!

Genius! I never knew what the pause print was for. Thank you.

Wow…. I had no idea…but now I have lots of them! Thanks!

Excellent ideas....

so many good tips, thanks!

Thank you! Cool ideas!

excellent tips, well explained! 👏

3:42 Genius!

Well that was awesome! Haven't thought about all those examples. Thanks!

I love the metal reinforcement idea, could definitely be used to making car part prototyping

Great video!

I used this function alot with my old printer. The MK3S' PINDA probe however is ferro magnetic so magnets rip the model right off the hotbed if you glue them or just stick to the PINDA probe.

I knew of most of this but the support jig at the end wasn't something I'd considered. Thanks for the tips :)

Very nice. Thank you.

I have been doing this almost since I first built my mk2.5 in 2017. I make, among other things, a new 3d Christmas ornament for friends each year, new labeled light plates for wall switches, and much more. One of these days I must get the $300 for for the mm2 but till then, I will keep on printing.

Thanks for the ideas!

Great things, thanks 😊

I was planning on trying out the tpu supports today. Thanks for the video

Really nice ideas. I need to try this out. Thanks Josef.

One feature along this line that is not currently in PrusaSlicer but would be very useful is the ability to do multicolor printing with out a multicolor printer, on the same level. Instead of printing a purge tower it asks the user to change filament. I obviously know that this if far to tedious for larger colored prints but for colored to players this would be very helpful, case in point the SpaceX logo you showed. Maybe it would even be possible to slice it for sequencial colors, printing 3 or so layers of each color before changing filament, but this would require some rather difficult algorithms to avoid crashes

To je skvelé! 😀

Amazing

My god, this here is the holy grail of 3d printing

0:49 this "paint printing" is extremely cool. Could you share more on how you made these please? :)

Really usefull video!

Awesome STALKER patches. Prusa is based confirmed.

Awesome 👍

Side Note: Please make sure Hardened Steel and/or Ruby nozzles are available for the PrusaXL at launch. Please don't ignore all of your loyal customers who use abrasive filaments.

I actually just used this to make a stand for the Zelda game and watch. But I wanted the top holders to be ninjaflex so they wouldn't scratch the plastic on the console. There doesn't seem to be a way to tell the change color mode to set a different temp. I suppose there are multiple work arounds for this (like adding a pause), but here's how I did it. I made a mental note of what was my last layer before the prusa wanted me to change colors. Then, just before the end of the last layer, I manually go into the settings and change the temp to 240 (from 210). This way the prusa still runs the same cycle but now at a hotter temp with the ninjaflex inserted. This worked just fine for me but it requires you to be around for the change. Because from what I can see, once you go into that filament change process, there is no way to change temp. You have to do it before that process starts. Anyone who may know more or has a better idea, feel free to chime in.

Thank you! Lots of fun uses and ideas

a cool software feature w/ regard to stand alone support would be is the slicer could generate the stand alone supports. This would mean you print the stand alone supports and then print the actual model but it would be worth it for really hard prints in time saved from cleaning up supports.

I was printing a valve that would have benefited from the custom support usage while watching this. It was at this part in the video that I had an, 'oh crap, I forgot to relax the edges on the overhang' moment. It's just a simple shutoff valve where turned parallel to flow lets the liquid flow and perpendicular stops the liquid. So it has a 90 degree edge at the top before the knob the end-user interacts with. Prints fine but without support requires a sacrificial layer that is going to sag and droop but serve as a mid-air support for the layers above it, in other words intentional waste plastic, the worst kind of waste.

i use a lot this function and it's so helpful, i love it ^^

Amazing video! Thank you ;)

This may be obvious but I learned the hard way to take steps to ensure that the z axis stepper doesn’t idle or disable during the pause when inserting things like nuts and stuff. Even a slight touch of the print moves mine low enough to cause a failed print when the steppers Disable. It’s recoverable but a pain.

One feature that is missing from prusa slicer is to select a layer for color change but leave the print outside lines in the previous color, it's usefull for printing embossed text with the lower layer being in a different color !

Can you please do a video on how to create those awesome timelapses?

Awesome! One thing which could be improved is how PrusaSlicer is doing the next layer after a nut insert. The nozzle starts doing a circle in the middle and than adds the lines around it....not the best option. A lot of spaghetti gets made there..... Whatever Color change is a pretty neat function 👌

Pausing a print is nice, if you have hours to wait until that moment arrives. xD

Didn't even know that there is a simple pause, I always just used the color change and loaded the filament back in!

At 2:12 I went crazy when I saw that drop of super glue land on the print bed in the lower left corner.

Support structure is creative. I used to waste a lot of support material.

AMAZING!!!

Why does this video got so many dislikes? It was very well executed and a good compilation of great ideas!

While we're on the topic of slicers, can you please implement custom rebindings of camera controls? I absolutely hate the default. Left-click-hold should never rotate ever. Rightclick to rotate, middle to pan, left to select. As is, whenever I try to rotate, itll drag a model, and those two functionalities need to be SEPARATE, and it's so easy to implement just as an option in the settings.

Better don't use epoxi resin like in the example. If you use very liquid one, it might flow out of the pores of the model and mess everything up. Other thing that can happen is that your print gets soft through the temperature increase of the hardening epoxi. It might even ignite when you put so much epoxi in the model, because its an exothermic reaction and it will be even faster and hotter when doing it on a heatbed. But nice ideas! Thanks for the video.

Can you also use the change color with a MMU, so without the wipe-tower ??? Would be very nice to have this possibility.

Damm that's cool;)