Can I use ls7 lifters on a flat tappet cam

@@mikeverything4098 🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@mikeverything4098 no.the roller cams are very hard .the lifter will destroy a flat tappet cam

Is it as hard a some of these videos are making it seem to install?

@@horizonfluidpower Line up the dots, lube the cam real good, lube up the lifters real good and "make sure" they spin easily in the hole, adjust your valve lash, add break in oil, run for 20min around 2500 rpm. Done, always use graphite type lubes on all your parts. Never lost a cam. Most people who have lost a cam is because the lifters were crap or they didn't spin freely in the lifter hole.

Tech question... are cam buttons required for flat tappet 3 bolt rv cam

@@Sir.AdamsVIII No. cam buttons are not required for flat tappets. Assuming SBC.

Or can't run rollers for rules in class stock cars

That’s right and don’t go the wrong way for 10 minutes like me. 🤪

Totally agree run valve every 3 races after 6 or ten races o go to even more races between

If you think NASCAR teams would not immediately switch to rollers if there were allowed, you're very wrong. Here's a question. Why is the Corvette GTE running rollers in endurance racing? Some of that stuff you find in NASCAR is because NASCAR seems to be ruled by a bunch of old geezers who seem to think that it would destroy the sport if everything was not medieval. Hell , just look at how recently they went to FI. They would switch to DOHC in the blink of an eye if they were given the chance.

Molycote (2%) Mos2 does the same

Exactly what I do with my 4.0 zinc every oil change.Heard rotella t5 still has zinc.

Flat tappet with moderate lift ad overlap is better than roller

I would think you would have more problems with seized roller bearings on a roller cam than any problems a flat tappet cam would give you, so long you break it in correctly!

It is a little more tedious with a flat tappet cam but really not terrible by any means. I've pretty much exclusively used flat tappet cams as they're just more affordable. I have a roller cam in my 454 in my boat and a roller for my high comp 427 going in my Camaro. If you can spring for a roller it is going to be a better cam for sure. But there is nothing wrong with a flat tappet, just make sure to follow proper break in procedure and you should not have any issues.

@@RatMaro I’m using it as a sort of stepping stone. I have a 96 F150 with a 302. It’s got a chip EFI system that I’ll be replacing with a Holly Sniper EFI system in the next few years or so, but I don’t have the money. I’ll be getting a cam that’s better than stock, but will still play nice with the old tech to hold me over until I’ve got a few grand to drop into a manual transmission and fuel system.

No elaborate break-in procedures needed...it is done almost instantly.

I have a FT cam in a 351w with 4500 miles. The heads are stock. I was going to get new heads. Cam runs nice, should I change it to a roller or leave it? Street car.

the oil now has less additives namely zinc.

@Java Aleim I like to use oil for 18 wheelers car runs stronger. I also think they took out zinc because its bad for the cat.

Cause the oil companies have took the oil additives out of the motor oil for flat tappet cams emissions government

Why would you waste money on a roller for everyday street use ?

Catalytic converters and o2 sensors came in and the govt took the zinc out of the oil so it wouldnt mess up the sensors. Sensors are usually easier to swap than cams.

A new engine isn't always necessary. I'd check the oil for obvious glitter and make sure you can get out as much as possible. If there isn't anything substantial a cam swap and new oil could make do and still have a long life. However if there is a considerable amount of metal a tear down and rebuild may be required to make it last. Depends how bad the damage appears.

If you want to spend the money it is added insurance realistically. I personally don't have any flat tappet nitrided cams, and they've all held up fine. But it wouldn't necessarily hurt either.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jtqemqd6tsDPgpc.html

Rpm ranges differ for any cam regardless of cam type.

Most manufacturers manage that by throwing around exhaust valve timing, but there are other factors. They own/use a spintron for testing, which 99% of us have never used - do not skip their guidance on rpm range, and as always... the first question for any new build is not what hp you want, but what rpm range you will operate in. THEN go shop for a cam [and a set of heads that complement it, with piston design/clearances in mind to get at hp]. I recently swapped cams from flat/hyd to flat/solid... which forced me into a new set of heads. Lucky me!

Why not just get a cam that works for your application? Buying a cam based on sound can only be described as dumb, sorry to say. There are engines that sound lumpy because people want it to sound that way, and then there are engines that sound fast. The latter are often quite smooth in fact.

@@AB-80X I’m well aware of this, hence why I asked for cam specs. I am in total agreement… especially those that buy motherthumpr cams for their 8:1 compression mid 80s sbc. When I built the 331 for my Foxbody, cam selection was based on application and parts used, compression ratio, approximate flow of the heads, etc.

I've got a 96 f150 with a 302. I'm new to engine building, and I want to stick a cam in it and GT40 heads. Do you have any tips?

@@thaddacusmaximus6706 I used a comp cam part # 35-218-3.This has .456 gross valve lift.Does not need a stall converter.This is a good combination with the gt40 heads.If you have more valve lift the heads won't support the increase air flow. You will have to do a spring update also.You will have to have two different sizes of retainers to make the springs level with each other.Or you could buy new valves but that can run the cost up.There is a small mail order guy who has a good price on springs and retainers.Alex's parts.I would recommend headers.You have EFI and I have a carburetor so I'm not sure about your intake and your emissions control system.

@@stevecooper8121 thanks for the tips. Do you have to set lash with hydraulic flat tappets? I live in an emissions exempt county, and on top of that the truck is now 26, so it’s emissions exempt all on its own. I’ll be bypassing/removing as much exhaust/crank case ventilation recirculation systems as I can. I have a chance to talk about my truck now, so I will. I’ve already ran a couple tanks of Marvel’s Mystery Oil and gas mix through it, and now I’m running some Chevron fuel system cleaner through it which fixed the ignition problem (I had to start it up twice. Once to get gas through, then again and it fired right up.) Next up is Sea Foam to clear up as much carbon in the chambers, valves, etc. as possible since I don’t have the GT40 heads yet, so no need to open the block. I’m looking into getting a Lunati Barebones or Voodoo cam, hydraulic flat tappet, to add a bit of power and give her a good sound, but still play nice with the old EFI system. As I asked before, do you have to set lash on hydraulic flat tappets? I figure it’s easier to ask someone than dig through forums for hours. I’ll eventually swap over to a Holly Sniper EFI to run a more aggressive cam, have a manual transmission without worrying about old Ford computers, and have the ability to run a roots style supercharger if I wish to. Once again, I appreciate the tips and hope I don’t break anything too expensive

@@thaddacusmaximus6706 Yes.Depending on what you are doing with the f150 you might think about using a carburetor and dual plane intake since you are eliminating all emissions. I already had a carburetor but I changed the intake with a Weiand stealth. You could use a Weiand 8020WND stealth.Good to 6800rpm.You can still use the sniper on it. A 750 quick fuel carburetor would be a big cost saving. The money you save can pay for the headers,exhaust, and a air/fuel mixture gauge. I have a air/fuel gauge and this takes all guess work out of adjusting the carburetor. I used 2.5 inch exhaust pipe with 2 chamber Thrush mufflers which sound great and have just enough back pressure. My truck runs mid14 seconds in quarter mile with drag tires. That's with a 3.90 gear, traction bars and a c6 auto tranny. I think it will be faster now with the carburetor issues that I have solved.It was to rich. The flat tappet has a great sound at idle. Do your research on each part you put in the motor because some pieces just don't mesh with each other.

@@stevecooper8121 will do. Although I do want to practice working with carbs, I’m willing to put in the extra money for Sniper EFI to not have to tune it since it tunes itself. I’m also not sure if I’d need to install a mechanical pump, or if my electrical pumps would do fine for the carburetor. I have dual tanks. I plan on driving this truck cross country, and I don’t want to have to fiddle with the fuel when I get from the swamps/forests of Texas, where I live, to the Rocky Mountains. I’m pretty sure I’ve got an E4OD transmission (computer controlled automatic) that I’ll be replacing with a manual transmission with overdrive so I won’t have to worry about computers getting upset and quitting. I’ll probably end up throwing gear vendors on it for an even higher highway gear since everything out here is at least a 30 minute drive going 50-70 mph. The money I’m saving by getting a flat tappet instead of a roller is what’s going towards heads, headers, and a tachometer since that’s earlier in my build plans than swapping fueling methods. It’s got 4x4, and weighs less than my uncle’s 2022 Tacoma, so I’ll be taking it off-roading for sure. I’ll definitely see if she rips on the street, but that’s not what I’m building her for. My friend has a Mercedes sedan with a V8. I want to see if I can beat it with spending less money, which shouldn’t be too hard, but that’s just a fun little thing to accomplish along the way. I do plan on buying a bull nose Ford truck that’s near my house or getting a first gen mustang and practice my carb tuning on that just to have it.

Yup! Set my ft camd bbc idle to 950-1k rpm for better cam oiling,better battery charging esp at night with lights on & bit better cooling at idle.

I personally haven't had any issue with either variant. I hear things about camshafts from comp not being what they used to be. But haven't personally had any issues with them. So I really can't speak on if they're actually bad. I think a lot of people just screw up the break in process personally, but no tests have actually been done to my knowledge to compare cams.

I put a mild cam in my 390 years ago and had to put shims under my rocker shaft pedestals, just a head's up with non adjustable rockers

Flat tappet cams can be hydraulic or solid (aka mechanical). Same with roller cams.

They bougth crap parts from China

Spin motors over with compressed air after assembly, take 1 off the line once a week and hot test it,

Yes, quite a few people run turbos with flat tappet cams, however usually people with turbo money go roller. But it will still work just fine if setup properly.

I run an Isky flat tappet with a Procharger. Been running for years with no problems. The power is unreal.

I wouldn't recommend that. Breaking in a cam with old lifters is a pretty quick way to wipe a lobe on a new cam. The lifters that are in your engine now are worn into your current cam and are very likely to fail if you run the same ones. It's possible to get away with but the consequences aren't worth it.

No

Are they solid lifters ?

@@brettjohnson8009 Thanks for your reply. Yes, they are solid. I did source 3 (and purchased) that look excellent even though they are used.

@@HWPcville There is a fella that does videos on here that can resurface them ,Powell Machine Inc

@@brettjohnson8009 Thanks alot, I will check them out.

A lot of people do skip this step and blame the manufacturer. I have seen this many times unfortunately.

@@RatMaro I’ve made that mistake. And thought what did i do wrong. And found if you think in the past you can’t grow with the future... times chsnge

@@robbiefrentz9427 Its honestly crazy though. I do feel like older cam cores were harder for flat tappets. My father (God rest his soul) really didn't care to add zinc to his flat tappet cams. That Falcon, Camaro and Chevelle in the video all havent had a zinc additive for 20 years plus and still run like a top. However that Blazer has a newer comp XE284H and we did run Zinc in it to make sure it had a life ahead of it haha.

@@RatMaro Now that you mentioned it your probably right. It’s like how you have to torque stuff these days. Even lug studs easily break. Im sure it’s a better system but a-shame you need new head bolts every time

Zinc is definitely recommended. It's very hit or miss on weather it'll mess up the cam without zinc. I've known people wipe lobes without zinc, but I also have a couple cars that have went 20 years without zinc. So it's a gamble really. But it is 100% recommended. Worth the extra money in oil not to have to pull your engine apart.

@@RatMaro I thought about autoze additive but if I add too much that is apparently not good either. Know of a good 10 40 oil easily obtained with good zink content? I have decat downpipe.

@@samsonyunited An additive should be completely fine so long as you follow the specifications on the bottle for how much to add. However Lucas does make a Hotrod and classic oil that is high zinc that comes in 10w40. Believe Amsoil does too.

@@RatMaro Amsoil is the Zrod high zinc !!!

Interesting idea. Lobes would not mind less friction but the roller lifters are much longer and would protrude beyond the bores. Oil passages might be blocked, and you would need shorter pushrods.

Well, after studying a little more on the issue I realize that I posted a bit of a stupid question if not a big one. I understand now the true fundamental differences and how you just can't add a roller lifter to a flat cam. BUT wouldn't it be something if somebody can come up with some type of rolling or ball bearing mechanism that could simply be added to alleviate the friction that flat tappets produce. Might be an interesting engineering technological advancement. It's it an answer to a question no one is asking? Perhaps, but sometimes cool stuff gets created that way. In the meantime, I'm going to make darn sure my break-in procedure for my 454 is by the book.

I have never had a fail. Still have several old cams from way back. Hope to use them again someday. Pratt & Whitney used rollers back in the early 40s in the R-2800 and R-4360. Getting the exhaust valve open was a challenge. Combustion pressure against the valve, spring pressure, and negative mechanical advantage of the rocker arm really added up.

If you buy a good set of lifters and a cam, then you won't have Chinese parts. Not entirely sure what's up with that builder. Thing is this. 25-30 years ago people paid 70-100 bucks for a nice set of flat tappet hydraulic lifters. Now people still go out and pay 70-100 bucks for their flat tappet hydraulic lifters - because they and their great grandfather paid for them. They just forget to consider inflation. If you go out and pay 150-200 bucks for a nice set of Howards, Isky or similar lifters, there's zero issue with the quality. But if you think you get the same quality for 100 bucks you got back then, you are sorely mistaken. One thing never changes. Cheap Powerful Reliable Pick two.

@@AB-80X Tool steel or roll the dice. If the box says made in China it doesn’t matter what brand it is. Junk

@@generalsixty2133 If you buy a Morel, Isky or Howard lifter for example, your box will not say made in China. Same goes with cams. If you buy super cheap stuff, that's on you. Super cheap stuff was crap 30 years ago, and still is.

@@AB-80X Yup, same with TREND tool steel flat tappets for circle track classes or CROWER roller. Low cost Elgin drop in rollers for OEM applications don't fail often, and are assembled in Mexico, North American components.

No, it's not the cams. It's the lifters, they arnt being crowned right and don't even rotate in the first place

I'm honestly not 100% sure. My father built that car back in highschool. He passed away in March so I dont think ill know unless I pull it or find a cam card. But it is sure nasty!

My point being in this video is I have never wiped a cam with standard procedure. It's really not a big risk if you follow steps accordingly to break in the cam. Not everyone has money for a roller setup, if they do then they most definitely should go for the roller cam.

Spoken just like someone who probably can't build their own engine!

@@derpatime11 I build BBC Nitrous engines and trust me when I say there is not ONE single hard core racer running a flat tappet cam in one single race engine in prob 30 years...Flat tappets are for tow trucks are car cruisers

@@excelerater There is nothing wrong with the average Joe using a flat tappet cam to make an improvement on their stock engine. The Nascar cup series used flat tappet cams up until a few years back. Roller cams are better but it can't go without saying if you are building a low buck street car and don't have the money to fork out for a roller you can by all means use a flat tappet. In the video he obviously says roller cams are a better cam design but its not something everyone can afford.

😂😂

I’ve been a technician for 35 years flat tappets are good and performs fine. Honestly roller is better technology and perform better just like anything. You drive a 1960’s car and then drive a modern car it’s so much better