Scullys Tie Exactly, that’s the simple approach.

My friend goes until his elbow clicks!

Exactly, you've made my point.

exactly this is the dumbest thing to be so autistic about. The fact that the dolos system exists proves this

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Me too!!!

@@Steve42098 ran drills with the dolo system for months. Any consistent shooter will tell you its cabbage over time.

Depending how heavy & long the barrel is I shoot for higher torque, also barrel extension to upper fit also comes into play. Use reaction rod also, a must need if you ask me.

Eh i disagree. The reason why the US infantry is a model for the world is because generally, most of our soldiers AIM their zeroed rifles, not hip fire AK47s like African child soldiers. That being said, accuracy is absolutely important. That being said, barrel harmonics comes into play. A rifleman should know the actual torque used on their barrel nut for a particular load. If theyre using 55 grain ammo from a particular ammo maker, theres a particular torque setting that will produce the tightest groups. Using 75 grain Hornady TAP bthp, i can achieve 1/2 MOA at 300 yards with a torque spec of 48 ft lbs with my 18 inch barrel.

@@harold1733 I'm confused by your comment. How is one to know up front when installing the barrel how it will shoot with a given torque and a given bullet weight and shape from a particular manufacturer, given that the barrel must first be installed before the gun is fired? And how do you know your particular gun won't shoot as well at 35 ft lbs or 47 ft lbs or 49 ft lbs or 55 ft lbs, etc? I mean, did you start with 30 ft lbs, shoot some groups, then move to 31 ft lbs, shoot some groups, and so on up to 48 ft lbs? And when you reached 1/2 MOA at 48 ft lbs. did you try 49 ft lbs to see if you got 1/3 MOA? Your 48 ft lbs value is oddly specific; would plus or minus 48 ft lbs yield meaningful differences in accuracy? If so, how do you know it's the torque and not yourself or weather conditions or differences in ammo from one round to the next? "A rifleman should know the actual torque used on their barrel nut for a particular load." Are you suggesting that gunsmiths install barrels using a torque value with a particular load in mind? Even if a barrel could be torqued to a spec somehow related to bullet weight, then presumably the barrel would be inaccurate for any other bullet weight (given your assertions), which doesn't make that barrel particular ideal. Who want's a rifle that can accurately shoot only one specific brand of cartridge? What happens when you can't find that specific brand of cartridge? Also, your contentions completely ignored barrel quality. A shitty barrel torqued to your value for a given cartridge from a particular maker will still yield shitty results. Also, how does your method account for undersized uppers like those manufactured by BCM, where the barrels are installed using heat?

@@blueeyeddevil1 i build my rifles from parts. I go with my barrel's twist to determine bullet weight range. I settled with 75 because I bought a shitload of em after seeing my friend shoot them out of his rifle and the brand and ammo was gtg, and there was a sale and will spec the rifle out to shoot them. I go and start low end (35-80 ft* lbs) so 35 lbs, go shoot groups. Then Ill jump 5 lbs up, shoot groups. In my case, I went all the way up to 50 lb, the groups got worse, went down to 46 got better than 45, until I landed on 48 foot pounds. Could my magic number have been 50 lb? Probably. Maybe I didnt sleep much that day or I shot my groups on too much coffee or the wind affected my groups or whatever external variable. All my experimentation and prodding, I got satisfactory groups at 48 foot pounds. I tried the best I could to be systematic and consistent. And I dont buy shit parts. I go with JP or Criterion or Proof Research or a custom MosTec or Excalibur. The intent for the rifle is important. Long range? Short range? Hunting? Varmint? 416R? 4150CMV? Duty? Competition? Length? Twist? Contour? Gas length? If you dont like my methods, do your research and come up with your own.

@@harold1733 Thanks for the response. If you think that amount of effort pays off, good on you. I didn't say anything about liking or disliking your methods, just wondering how you arrived at your conclusion given all the variables. I agree that torque can play a role in accuracy, especially at extremes of high (overnight) and low (loose). That said, I built several rifles that consistently shoot 1/2 MOA on a sled with hand loads and I never had to take things to that level, especially with higher end barrels. But okay, to each his own. Happy shooting.

You’re welcome, brother.

Paul Hughes You’re welcome brother, I’m glad it helped!

You're welcome, brother! I'm glad it was informative.

Do not use "anti-seize" that has metal particles, such as Neverseize or the copper stuff. Those bits of zinc or copper grab the aluminum and make it difficult to tighten smoothly. The barrel nut wants to move in jerks. Use a smooth grease, preferably with moly disulfide. This is ordinary brown wheel bearing grease for disk brakes. If you don't have that, regular grease gun type grease is fine.

You definitely are not a real engineer. As a REAL engineer myself, I know, and YOU should know too, that no engineer ever did any real engineering to determine an ideal torque value. It's all just armchair enthusiasts jerking eachother off over made up shit. As long as you have the thing on tightly, it doesn't matter how much torque you apply.

I'm an ACTUAL engineer... you're both idiots.

@@samuelpalmquist2190 I too am an engineer and agree with the engineer above me.

At Deutsch Aerospace we "engineers" use to "sling ink on vellum" and actually included a page of mathematical data and conclusions. The day any of you actually were required to take a class in slide rule and do the "math" is the true test of real "engineering." The next year we were required to buy that TI SR-50 which was about $200 back then...I actually still have the thing. Using applied force to cut, bend, shape and form various metals along with the blueprints for fixtures and molds, this shit is child's play. Today we just plug in "netfabb" or "solidworks" and be done with it. Still doesn't look as awesome as a shaded in inked vellum drawing framed and hung on a wall.

I’m the real engineer here boys. Take a seat.

Hoorah, brother.

Thanks brother, I appreciate the feedback!

You're welcome, brother!

Not really, must account for the length of the wrench

As stated, it was to provide visual proof based on the principles of torque, not just a simple statement that continues to be widely misunderstood.

Darryl Johnson Thanks, brother!

As an engineer from way back when we used slide rules and slung ink on vellum, even the mfg recommends that.... Most auto mechanics going by the Motors Manuals do the same...kinda an understood thing.

@@keithlucas6260 I retired as a Nuclear Mechanical Systems Inspector. Before that I spent many hours working on my own vehicles. Stickler for doing thing correctly. You might be surprised how many people don't have the same understanding you have.

@@calvinroyals6463 ....Thanks....went into the Air Force and was offered Colorado Springs AFA in '76 after I already had my degree....long story short was given a security clearance that's classified. After an injury I was "retired" and got the job with Deutsch during this "leave of absence." Funny how things don't always go as planned.....ended up "slinging ink" for Bianchi Gunleather in Temecula and happen to be "that guy" who developed the locking welt holsters you see Safariland selling (John's old business bought his business). I'm actually just retired from Baker Hughes as their top master toolmaker....found it more satisfying "turning handles." There isn't anything from manuals to CNCs, I can't setup, program or run and get $30 to $40 an hour plus overtime. My "baby" I'm playing with now happens to be a 1948 CASE VAC utility tractor... plus I have my own shop to "piddle" with everything in.

@@keithlucas6260 You are an example of what my cousin says. The cream rises to the top. I was a slow learner took me 20 years as Nuc 10 of them in Refueling before I put in for Work Leader to advance my career. Would like to have learned how to set up CNC. Everything I did was so far removed from my military MOS. Artillery men don't have much to do in civilian life. Funny I have made some holsters for friends and myself. All hand sewn too cheap to buy a machine. Well take care and be well.

Thanks brother, I'm glad it was helpful! That particular wrench is a 1/2" drive made by Tekton. I've had it for two years and it's been solid.

Haha, that's a name I have yet to hear but thanks brother! If you're having to reach for the TI-30X, then you're already overthinking it!

:I enjoy your commentary just having fun. LOL I 🐢🇺🇸🐢🇺🇸🐢🇺🇸👍

Anthony Shepard I knew you were and thanks for tuning in!

It's simply finding the length normal to the direction of the applied force.

Thanks brother, the goal was to keep the math lecture to a minimum! Roger that on the weather.

You get it so this video wasn't for you, brother. It's for all those that don't understand the concept and incorrectly state the facts. Thank you for your service. Speaking of Marines, I just spent way too much time in the field with a staff sergeant but a good dude nonetheless.

Thanks for staying awake, brother!

The Lonestar Patriot I was getting drowsy at the end

What if it's dry lube? 🤔

Bill23799 Mission accomplished. The simple version is don’t overthink it.

Hahaha this comment 😂 I take it was the letters?

You're welcome, brother.

You're welcome, brother. Don't worry about the higher applied torque either since it's a negligible difference anyways.

If you are under 80 ft-lbs you should be good to go.

Clint Boling Don’t worry, I fell asleep as well!

That's the entire point of the video.

Aerospace/Space hardware has very tightly controlled torque specs. They don't "nuke" it either. Over torquing aerospace bolts is worse than slightly under torquing them.

Juan Carlos C That’s exactly my point in the video.

Thanks, brother.

Just lower your torque wrench if your worried about over torquing. The torque is a VERY VERY wide margin on these barrel nuts.

Thanks brother, you've picked up what I've put down.

If your extension is at 90 degrees your applied torque still matches your set torque regardless. I'm not sure who is really using an extension long enough to matter for other angles though.

@@JenkinsStevenD That's exactly what was proven.

You beat me to it, although I do deal with angle variations for my occupation.

Not with some shimmy shims!!!

Oh wow, You're actually supposed to use shims. So then when you are at the appropriate torque setting then you are lined up for your gas tube. You definitely don't tighten to the torque setting then loosen it to line up 👀

You're on a high horse

Says the dude literally listening to a video on barrel nut torque.... eat shit bro

It's the reverse to where lubricity will provide an increased applied torque; however, for this application with an anti-sieze grease, there's not a significant increase in applied torque and it does provide a more even distribution to the threads. That's why a median torque value simplifies any anomalies to where it's still within acceptable tolerances.

As a mechanic, I’ll tell you that’s not the case at all. Applying lube to a fastener does not double the applied torque, not even close. It may increase by just a little bit since the friction coefficient is reduced but nothing critical at all.

Tim Oneill , you are correct. However it would be more appropriate to say that clamping force and fastener stress go up as friction goes down with the same amount of torque. This equation relates torque to clamping force: T=KFd where: T=torque K=friction coefficient F=clamping force d=thread diameter This is a general equation for preload torque on a solid fastener. The following links explain preload torque and friction better that I can and also why torque is an awful method for retaining fasteners. I would like to add that the type of lubrication is part of the torque spec. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/otlzrKSnudfHfnk.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jrOahLedxN6Xlpc.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nMimmZenstaYkp8.html

The 30 to 80 ft. lbs torque spec is based on the use of aeroshell 33ms grease. It doesn't change much for other greases. Non-issue.

Thanks brother, I appreciate the support!

Thanks, brother. It was important to cover this in depth so it can provide an understanding of how the math works because of how much confusion there is on the subject. More importantly, to point out that it doesn't make any significant difference, especially if you target a median torque value.

Just remember the length for the moment arm must be normal to the direction of the applied force.

Cue the Top Gun theme song.

Deputydog1122 Don’t make assumptions, this had nothing to do with feeling important. It had everything to do with proving a highly misunderstood topic.

Size of what?

I've even removed the teeth on the barrel nut too make room for the gas tube & get exactly the torque I wanted.

Guy Green I have an ar 15 pistol upper from ground zero precision. I’ve been looking around on how many foot pounds to torque it. Do certain company’s have different torque specs or does the 35-80 ft lbs work for all ar 15 builds? Plz help

@@brandongarcia2688 30-80 ft. lbs. is pretty standard. First of all, don't use loctite. Get yourself some aeroshell 33ms. It is less than $10. It has anti-seize and anti-gaulling properties. Coat the outside of your barrel extension with a thin layer. Coat the inside of your upper where it meets the barrel with a thin layer. Set your extension at 90 degrees to the torque tool. Set your torque tool to 30 ft. pounds. Torque it to that spec. Break it (unscrew it) using a breaker bar, not the torque wrench. Repeat that torque spec 2 more times, breaking it two more times. On the fourth go, you are going to set it to about 40 ft. pounds and tighten it. If it is properly clocked or you have a barren nut that doesn't require clocking then you are done. If you need further clocking, set your torque wrench to a higher value like 60 ft. pounds and just keep moving it ever so slightly until it is clocked correctly. Keep repeating until it is clocked but don't go over 80 ft. pounds. The only reason I incrementally increase my torque for clocking is so that I know about how much it is torqued. Happy building, friend.