Also don't use metal boxes with knockouts for extension cords. The "slugs" can be bent inward and make contact. Another Frank...

@@frank-pl8vn lol at the “another Frank” comment.

Also, if you use the correct end of the cable you won't have to cross the wires inside the plug end.

Yeah, good job. Only problem is he has the plastic bushing on the inside threads holding it together instead of the metal lock nut. That won't last long, it has to fixed. Also to use the push insert option on the back of the outlets will eventually fail and lose a good contact. The springs weaken from the heat, vibration, etc. Depending on the amount of use the cord gets, it will determine the time it has before failure. Always make the hook and wrap it around the lug.

Can we get a comment from someone named Beans here please.

views are views

haha i was one of them .hahahahahahahah I recomended that he put a drying plug on the end and wire the 2 oulets to the separate phases, THEN it will truly be a beast. . and pump out 7200 watts total 3600 watt per outlet, the only weak link would be the 20 amp outlet, but i feel confident it would work just because the 10awg is wired directly to it so the the path from the 10awg to the outlet is likley less than an half of inch with very little resistance. . . would be a interesting test to pump 30 amps thru it and see how a 20 amp outlet fairs wired that way

@@mikeriverajr4447 Yeah I was gonna mention what you said, being an electrician I just couldn't help myself. The plugs and the male cord end he's using are way underrated for that gauge of a cord. Plus as everyone else has mentioned, he's got his lock-ring on the outside of the box when it should be on the inside. And lastly, the box he's using is not really correct. Any electrical box with knockouts is supposed to be affixed to a wall, per code. They make pendant cord boxes that have a single threaded hole on the top specifically for a cord strain reliever. One reason why you don't want a box with knockouts in this situation is because if he were to grip onto that box and try to plug something in, he could potentially push in a knockout with his finger or thumb, and that knockout tab could come in contact with a side screw on the back of the outlets. (also why you should wrap tape around the back of an outlet device after wiring it).

@@420JackG commercially this still is atleast at all the H-E-Bs and most super that need drop cords

He watched someone else’s video on this topic then made his own. That’s why all his screw-ups.

I’m an electrician also, we call those “green wires” grounding pigtails or green pigtails here. There’s a million different names for the same thing in this industry

@@bigguyprepper Yessir.

ROFL.. He does have his lockring outside the box. LOL. Yeah.. Hold your industrial cord to the box with a 10 cent plastic bushing.. It'll last a long time. NOT...

You and the John’s guy are correct and I agree with everything. Cheers from the ibew local 1531. (If you’re union anyway)

@@charlesbirchett7059 Local 527 over here, brother.

That comment got me to smile from two points of view: it's easy to laugh at excessive frugality, but it's even easier to laugh at those who don't fully understand it!

@@pocket83squared , That is an old electrician's hack I was taught when I first entered the business!

Yup, i was happy to see this comment

We used to coil some wire around a screw driver to make our own. I've gotten used to just cutting the relevant length from a rawl plug

not going to lie; it hurt to see him disregard them like that. Theres ALWAYS a situation 5 years down the road where that one thing you never thought you could use would be the perfect solution

And "ears" up the side for when you inevitably drag it face down.

I always use a 2x6 12” long, 30 years and still going!

Make the plywood big enough to step on too.

I'd probably use one of those "rubber" dips on the back of the box just to avaoid scratching anything with the metallic box.

I have found before assembly clean and scuff the box and cover. (Outside Only) then coat with rubberized coating to reduce chance of shock. Your idea of putting the wood on the bottom is a great idea.

LOL OHSA Back in 1970 I was working in a printing company and OHSA came in and did an inspection, we failed, Boss told the inspector to pass us and never comeback or else! Lol never saw OHSA after that, I worked there over 35 years.

only problem IMO is using the insulator as a nut, and the jam nut is outside the box. Everything else is 100

@@RandyRandersonthefamous I would use outdoor box instead of that steal box. Would not want to use that outside or in wet area. Also with 10/3 Wire why use 15 amp outlets. Why not 20 Amp? Most new outlets use stab in connectors instead of having to use wrap around screw.

@@allegannews9256 Very good improvement, you could even use a rain proof outlet cover since it's using standard electrical hardware. 20A is also good. Not much more and it will be under slightly less load over its life running mostly 15A appliances.

I haven't seen anyone mentioning 2 ground wires under one grounding screw. Not allowed unless they have crimped-on lugs.

And made already 3 for himself? Maybe he should put a tracker on his nice stuff? xD

If you have 20 amp outlets upgrade the plug and the ends to 20 amp. A 10/3 cable is good for 20+ amp. Also upgrade the outlet box to aluminum outdoor outlet box so it can be good in wet locations. May also want to use GFI outlets if you will be using outside.

This exact list of items on Amazon prime comes to $199.80, except for the small lengths of household wire.

@@Ca_Tule_Ninja Explain

My dad made a few like this out of wire spools. He also included a light socket. Which I put my finger in when feeling about for a light switch in the loft space. 240V bites hard.

Was thinking same thing, but I ain't no ⚡sparky⚡

My Hobart welder is recommended to be used with a 10 ga ext. cord if over a certain length.

He explained that at the beginning that 12ga is plenty. 10 is more versatile. And nobody uses 14gage for receptacles. Perhaps 14 gage for a lighting circuit. Wall outlets are typically 12gage.

Yes 10/3 is 30 amp. If you are going long distance could see using it for 15 amp service but at this length 12/3 with 20 amp plug and outlet would be ok. Would also upgrade to aluminum outdoor box and consider using GFI if I was using it outdoors or on cement floors.

@@allegannews9256 Anytime you are using an extension cord, per OSHA, it is required to be plugged into a GFI protected device, hence the down stream receptacles would be GFI protected. Reason the cord is to be GFI protected from the plug end is in case the cord is damaged it will trip GFI. Otherwise a damaged cord in a wet location would allow you to get an electrical shock.

GTFO no way. That explains why some of mine look like they are braided under there.

it is amazing how few people know this

@@patrickderegt2582 I know a lot of appreciates don’t know this. One of my favourite parts of my job is passing knowledge to someone that is interested in learning.

thats awesome, thanks. im super amateur and always wondered why i had to redirect the wire sometimes!

One of the first things one of my journeyman showed me when I got in the trade. Blew my mind haha

Didn't knew you also watch his vids.

Tap tap tappy

just like any tradesman does when the right tool is in the truck that's 30 feet away or more.

Everything is a hammer when you need it to be. Flatheads are chisels/ prybars and don't let the guy at the warranty counter tell you otherwise.

Nandito ka din? Hahaha

Your correct waited for someone to mention that

That's what suckered me into watching the video. Tag should've been 10/2, and the jam nut should be on the inside Regardless, it's still a great idea.

@@dougieonthemove4658 10/3 was the right tag, he just explained what it meant the wrong way. 10/3 can also have 4 wires with 3 of them insulated and one bare, or just 3 insulated wires like the one he used had.

10/2 Two conductors carrying load (hot + neutral) + ground 10/3 Three conductors carrying load (hot L1 + hot L2 + neutral) + ground 10/4 Four conductors carrying load (L1,L2,L3 + neutral + ground for 3-phase power.

@@guytech7310 or for a three-way switch

Was going to say this but knew someone else has. Took a scroll and here you are! 😁 but he’s right!

Agree.

Not with SO cord, the ground is counted in the conductor designation with SO. With Romex, DLO, tray cable, etc you don’t count the ground but with service cord you do.

It's SO cord, 10/3 because it has an insulated ground. In Romex you would be correct 10/3 would have black, red, white and an uninsulated ground.

ha caught that too!

yup, he locked it in place with a thread cover bushing. lol

That plastic bushing won’t hold much weight. He’s gonna regret that when he picks up that cord and the box falls off the wire. If you gonna spend all that money on a nice restraint you might as well install it correctly!!!

I'm sure he'll fix it after seeing these comments 🤣😂

Thanks for that comment - now I have a search term to track down a decent box. I built one of these long ago but haven't been happy with it. The only boxes I could find at the home stores here are intended to be behind walls. Sharp edges, covered in holes and knock outs. I wanted something I could use around jobsites but figured the open style boxes would fill with sawdust and once moisture got in there I'd have a problem

You gotta remove all the knockouts for ventilation. Can't be having those things getting too hot.

I mean, I think OSHA also mandates that you can't make your own extension cord for a job site.

@@jethro9341 If they remove the knockouts, how is it going to float when someone uses it in the pool?

@@jim.h good point

Also. If the cord gets damaged and the neutral wire gets broken, the GFCI will not trip if you get a ground fault. Commercially made GFCI cords are made so the cord can't be energized if the neutral is open.

If you know the rules you can break the rules. 😆

Save your a**

I always remembered it as “hot little slots”. I was 16 yrs old when I started electrical construction class, so you can tell where my mind was.

I always just remember it, I don't need a saying to remind me. After how many outlets does a person have to wire, while reminding themselves "black to gold" or whatever saying? Now, I know he just knows, and so do you and if you're teaching someone, it's a good idea. But after, like 3 outlets, it's committed to memory I hope. lol

Black to brass, save your a**

Black to Brass, Neutral to Nickel

Was waiting for someone to tell him 10 awg was absurdly overkill

That was the main part, lol

@Castleknight.......I was just about to say the same thing re hooking the wire......it only takes a second and ensures a better grip on the screw v.s. a straight piece. The difference in conduction area is also highly increased that way. I've done this on every connection I've ever done.

He's trying to keep the video family friendly!

Appreciate diy video but oops need revision to actually the show heavy cable lead connection detail inside the box.

My guess is with ring terminals. It would be tough to get number 10 wrapped around the screws lol.

to big of a wire 😂

@@anthonymilanese8372 Can confirm. I've cussed at enough #10's in my day to ever expect someone to show them connecting #10 inside of an outlet LOL!

Especially the extra fine conductors in S/O cord.

Can you send me pictures of this it sounds incredible

Agreed I would like to see that

That sounds amazing!

There is also copper tape, available at damn near all electric supply houses. We use it for large temp S/O cords that end up getting shifted from site to site. Helps keep the fraying down to fit into lugs easier with repeatability.

Tinning stranded wiring is a bad idea because it makes the end brittle cause it to snap where the solder ends. If you want to a better grip, crimp ferrules on the ends.

@@guytech7310 I use crimp on wire ferrules on all stranded connections 10 AWG or less. Only because that is largest my crimper can do. It helps keep all strands together

I got a cheap led off of Amazon rated at 5v which is what the USB run off of and pluged it in to one of the USB slots. I have a welder I use all the time thats 220. I made a 3 gang box 220, 110, 110 with 2 usb's. But I siliconed the entire thing when done just in case of moisture. I live near the texas coast

@@jontruax1 LED with a 100K resistor will work.

I put a gfi on mine safer and has an led.

I made one like this but one of the receptacles had integrated power LED and that is how we knew it had power.

Good point

I would use outdoor box instead of Steal so I could use this in wet areas.

I'm a HVAC electrician, been watching his channel for years. I'm pretty sure he does stuff like this on purpose to have fun with all the sparkeys in the comment section. He calls them all pre madanas and stuff lol

Since you are en electrician, I have a question: My issue with this cable is, that the box for the receptacles has a bunch of holes in it- so the internals are not protected from the environment (dust, moisture, sand, etc). If the box would be sealed, I would love this cable. Any suggestions on a sealed alternative?

@@yxcvmk Just make sure your cable is SO or THWN or THWN-2 & get a weatherproof outdoor box (they come with seals). You could pay extra for the blast-proof or plain aluminum ones, or go to the cheapest option: plastic. (As long as they're water-tight they should say "suitable for wet locations" somewhere... usually inside.) You can also get a clear cover for the outside so it can be outdoors and get rained on (still wouldn't risk dropping it in a deep puddle, tho.)

i hope he gets that lock nut put on right. Be a shame to see him yank the cord out because that little plastic nut breaks or gets loose. Im not gonna talk about all of them knock outs that can get banged on and pushed in to the hot side of the plugs,,,,,

Warren , what should have done? Different style box with only 1 knockout?

@@MyFirstKZfaqHandle wrap the outlets in electrical tape

@@warrenmichael918 Regarding the knock-outs, I hadn't thought of that.... good point !

@@douglascroghan9657 electrical tape is what is done in most cases but the knockouts are fairly sturdy. Homeowners and Non professional tradesmen most likely wouldnt use this enough to bang it all to heck and even worry about damage. A good option is the outdoor boxes with the screw in knockout plugs, the ones that usually come with the deep watertight covers.

@@El_Guapo74 And Wire & Cable your way has great prices also and reasonable shipping in sizes HD or Lowes may not carry. All in custom lengths too.

12/3 will allow to you run 20amps per circuit with 12/3 you can do a split phase (wire hot to each receptacle and common nuetral & ground, and use a 240VAC plug.

Definitely

An east coast guy would do it that way. And this one has :D

waterproof boxes tend to be less resilient to getting thrown onto concrete and there really is no point as normal 15 amp plugs aren't waterproof anyways

“Top 10 Fizz Producers” “How to quantify the fizz” His excitement when he gets the fizz is awesome.

Dang! back to the shop,

@@wranglerstar Lol! Not a bad place to be, I'd love to have a shop like yours! Goals!

You’re welcome.

One of the best decisions I ever made was to go into electrical. Never out of work, if your willing to work hard. Good luck.

Do it. You won't regret it. In my state the average age for electricians over 50. And I swear, every couple of months, more and more people retire, but we rarely get new people.

I think going into the trades vs. going to college and then getting a corporate cubicle job is the way to go. If I had it to do over again, I think I would do that.

@@Castleknight I've already got a 2 year business degree and an accounting job...but I'm young enough to do it over again lol. Got my degree pre highschool graduation at 18. I had this big success story planned out but the accounting is duller than watching paint dry. Thinking on taking the business knowledge, studying a trade, and running my own business after I get some experience.

Hopefully he'll read through these comments and make another video fixing this cord!!

They also carry them at Lowe's at least the one by my house.

So does Levitron

😆😆

The inserts are there in case you use a flat chord, not necessarily a cheap chord.

The insert is there because that 5-15 (15a) Edison connector is only meant to have 12-3 cable at the most. His 10awg is a waste of money and energy lugging that thing around.

@@grantkondourajian6150 I agree, unless it was going to be a cord over 100ft there’s no point in upsizing the cord

No it’s solid wire inside the box it doesn’t need to be a as flexible as the cord wire so it can be smaller

@@gabrielpetri4143 so to be clear, I'm not an electrician but does solid 12ga wire have the same current load capacity as stranded 10ga?

To be clear I am an electrician, and the only part of this assembly that's rated for 30 amps is the the #10 flex. I don't know the rating of the plug he used, but the receptacles here are only rated to be used for 15 amp loads at 120 volts. He would have to change the plug and the receptacles if he were to use it for his 30 amp welder. That been said, solid vs stranded does not change the rating of the wire. While a stranded #12 will have a larger outer diameter than a solid #12, they are both rated to carry the same amount of current.

@@BluCappy419 cool - that's what I thought. It's a "weakest link" scenario. Thanks for helping to clarify my concern.

for safety of not overheating your circuit can only draw 15 amps that is all receptacle is rated for but the heavier the cord the less resistance so less voltage drop under a heavy load = tools work better

The other plus of reversing the orientation of one of the receptacles is that you can fit two large wall-wart transformers which would not fit side-by-side.

Right on.

Good words. Correct me if I'm wrong if he used 20 amp receptacles wouldn't he need to use a 20 amp plug which would limit where he can plug it into?

@@abdulelkhatib2674 this is correct. I wasnt thinking about ease of access

@@abdulelkhatib2674 good thought

@@johnk2075Thanks

I was curious as well, about why he used size 10 wire in cord, but only 12 in box for jumpers. And you'd need different outlets for 220 240v. As well as plug.

@@shutterspeedjb yes you would need different plugs for the 240, but I was thinking in terms of different break out boxes.....that 12 is more than enough for jumpers....really what you run into with longer extension runs is a voltage drop that occurs as a function of length and current...he can expect anything negligible voltage loss using that 10 gauge cable over 50 or a 100 feet for anything designed for 20 amp plugs and even very little if they are all maxed out....I usually have to think of this stuff for audio gear where it’s a bit more critical, but they are fun to make and great to have, just that if your going to go through the trouble, it’s nice to make your distribution system with multiple circuits, break out boxes, twist locks etc. for all kinds of flexibility....it’s all just as easy as he makes it look and you can get as creative as you like

@@Diaphanic1 Thanks for the info. I wasn't questioning your reply, you are spot on. I was just curious about the wire size in box, plus the amp rating of outlets and plug. Thanks for clearing up the wire size. I wired my own tiny home I just built, but there's always more to learn in all things. Thanks.

Soow

@@joemomma4482 I've seen it both ways. Not sure what the J represents.

@@johndunbar2393 soow is 600v show is 300v

@@joemomma4482 Ah, that's the difference! Thanks for the info Sir!

S = Standard or Service Wire O = the exterior coating is oil resistant J = qualifies the “s” as junior service As Earnie said SO = 600v and SJ = 300v

I'm sure you've had to replace the ends a few times?

Excellent idea !

SJOOW (SJ) has thin insulation. Not my first choice. SOOW (SO) has much thicker, more durable insulation.

needs to upgrade to a sebenza from Chris Reeves. then he can have the fizz all day long in his pants pockets haha

I use this type of wire all over my radio stations, but just for power ;) it works nice to drop from ceilings (using strain reliefs similar to the one in this video) and twist-lock connectors to power my racks.

A bit like the ISO 216 paper sizes, where the number indicates the number of cuts from a square meter sized sheet of paper.

@@cjoor or thickness of steel

It's actually not backwards. These are sized below Zero. Sized above Zero count upwards.

Use a GFCI outlet, then from that to the other outlet. Both would then be protected. Somewhat common in older bathrooms.

Yea like he did not take the lock ring off and he just used the plastic bushing as a lock ring what a dope

Granger or Mc Master-Carr have some very nice cord reels that will hold close to a hundred foot of cord

They exist. Just can't remember where

Yeah we are crazy. We have like 3 different measuring systems for the same item. What you gonna do about it boy ??

So... what about your pipe sizes? How they doing?

@@abdulelkhatib2674 I rekon we make a new one, and mix em all up, 1/4's, 1/8ths, 32'46s, 9s of 5s. decimalistics and habberdasherie smidgeons and dollops. Still enjoying your creativities, so you and yourn just keep on keeping on.

@@firesurfer 50mm pipe is easy to measure. Easy to half, quarter or divide by 2.4. if need be. Science uses metric, why are we, US, the last holdouts. it makes no sense to me.

@@jonc4719 The threads are US standard pipe.