Which is the brand of the wire peeler?

Part numbers of tools used please?

How can I call you dear sir

How can I call you, dear sir.

WAGOs are horrible connections! This is probably low current stuff so it might be OK. But these things suck! Wire nuts and screws are much better. WAGOs have high resistance right out of the box!! Bad for high current applications.

Haha ....& it felt right!

Those damn nails always bend when 🔨 I was told screws are much better so ...

They bend for movement screws snap 😂😂😂 I still use the hammer or the side of the impact driver.

Barbed nails 😁

that's a screw #2 robertson/ phillips hybrid@@125brat

Don't know what part of the world you live in in order to see plumbers hammering screws 😂

​@h8ryj that's cause plumbers don't call them screws, they call them twist nails 🤣

@@jaywenden1939 🤣

hammering the screw is the mistake the plumber does. This guy showed how to fix their mistake

Plumbers have drilled my cable once when installing a water heater Always use wire detectors

No. The only impressive part is the hammering of the screw

@@aliabdallah102 no the most impressive part was the heat shrink.

I came here for that comment.

Try doing that with 8 or 10 conductors and no slack

@@walterbrunswick Any good electrician worth their salt could do that.

👏👏👏

@@walterbrunswick I recently spliced an Ethernet cable for a cctv POE system the cables had to pull through an outer sleeve that was just bigger then original, I used this staggered technique and it worked beautifully (solder and shrink, no connectors), I'm not even an electrician (motorsports engineer) so yea that was easy, next.....

Dude that's the shrinkiest heat shrink that I've ever seen shrink. Lol But for real, I was with you. I was like "no waaaaay" and sure enough, it did the job. That's some serious shrinking that stuff does.

​@@goosenotmaverick1156very thick. I love it.

That is some serious heatshrink.

@@IAmThe_RA I know I'm not the only one wanting to know exactly what that was and how bad it's gonna hurt my wallet when I find some. Lol I know what I'm doing Monday when I get to the supply house 🤣

Used to use that type of heat shrink to repair the cables of cameras we used to inspect sewers. That stuff works great.

I believe the purpose was to show a new way to repair a damaged cable. If the cable is clipped in you’re not likely to be able to get enough slack to stagger the connections. One weird thing is that I’ve never come across a cable joint where the manufacturer’s instructions calls for staggered connections.

I was going to say the same thing, definitely a better technique. Also for ELV lighting outside, staggered joins prevent shorts with slight water ingress.

​@@kristiangoransson6104 if you ever work on big L.V joints it will show a staggered joint

@@kristiangoransson6104 Depends on the damage. This damage could have been staggered without needing extra slack.

Took the words out of my mouth.

It’s the same technique that DNOs use - nothing wrong with heat shrink. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p52hocWe0NfWpGw.html&si=INhX0okusFySuARW

Yeah that great shrink is awesome and it being so thick as well. As soon as i saw it i was like "well that's too big" ya proved me wrong lol

'Normal' heatshrink is usually 2:1 but this stuff also has the glue (presumably to help seal AND reinforce for strain relief). The glue stuff usually has a 3:1 ratio but of course various different technologies have different shrink ratios. There isn't anything wrong with heatshrink in the right application (where it conforms to all regs), just the wrong type of heatshrink in the wrong type of application.

​@@Thats_Mr_Random_Person_to_youthere is even heat shrink tubing that shrinks down to 10% of its starting diameter, this may be in that range :) The walls do get pretty thick though, even more so if there is glue as well.

​@@Robinlarsson83It's 32-7.5mm stuff. Still a pretty decent ratio

🤦🏻‍♂️😂😂😂🤦🏻‍♂️

Damn 😆

@@efixxbroski as gyprock monkey for years I’ve sadly done this a few times through the metal plate I also think I how many screws that may have missed and that are in the conduit in the plumbing still holding pressure as I’ve ran into this problem many times when fixing other peoples work

​@@superherobeatdowndude, you had ONE JOB! Install the drywall without hitting any plumbing, wiring or HVAC! This is why we can't have nice things.

That was on purpose. It's the comment boost trigger😂

That is 3 to 1 shrink or better + glue lined. Get from CPC or others. Brilliant for all cable jobs, esp securing flexible to rigid plugs etc.

​@@simoncroft9792rather 4:1 w glue

@@simoncroft9792 Thank you. I was wondering if they put glue in before shrinking and just didn't show that step. But it's still impressive shrinkage.

​@@The77Gamenah, you can get heat shrink with glue, basically anywhere :) the stuff that shrinks more than 3:1 is a bit harder to come by, there is 4:1 and even 90% shrink.

Pretty standard fare really. Cabac SMDW is the basic bang-for-buck stuff I stock but there are better options... that 3M stuff is verryniiice...

heat shrink appears in most of my electronics rejects and guitar stomp box fixes over many decades

Fully agree with you there. The Wagos are nice, but the barrel connectors will be slimmer and more solid because of the solder barrels. Just so long as they're rated for the current!

It’s a requirement if you want to plaster the cable in the wall

You're correct but that sure looks like PVC, which is the worst!

열수축도 잘 안되어 보이고 커넥터 연결 부위도 동일 하다는거에 영상을 보면서 좀 놀랐습니다.

So yo know da wae

How can you have a lever with a thread, it’s a lever not a lever nut…

It was only held together by the heat shrink glue, not inherently the wagos.

It can be left into a concealed space in the UK as long as it is in the correct junction box.

Yeah NFPA needs to revisit this. There are so many permanent splicing methods that you don't really need a junction box for. Like this one.

They would probably come back and say "well splice will have to be tested for insulation and heat dissipation at nominal amperage"

​@@DavideAnastasia this is why NEC rules are superior. Because just about any splice point needs to be accessible. Like what if your hidden splice point got wet. It's definitely going to fail at some point because of moisture. How will you access it then? What if you sell the house and the new owner is comment unsure where that hidden splice point is located? It's going to be a nightmare and expensive to fix.

@@fjl05 This is why NEC rules are _inferior,_ because when dealing with existing wiring there are often situations where a repair needs to be made where it is not practical for it to be accessible, and the NEC currently _does_ allow doing this, but only (to my knowledge) if you use horribly crappy insulation-displacement "romex splice kit" products which are actually _known for catching on fire_ inside walls (but it's still the only thing you're allowed to use), which is just stupid. Something like the UK's "maintenance-free" designation with appropriate rules for use would be both _safer and more reliable_ than what they _currently do allow_ in the code. And none of the standard electrical boxes used in the US are watertight either (and all NEC regulations basically assume that most interior areas are always going to be dry anyway), so your argument about "what if it gets wet" is completely irrelevant. That has nothing to do with being accessible or not to begin with. (And if you're really that concerned about moisture, just use marine-grade shrink-wrap tubing instead. Problem solved.)

rated for 32A

​@@techheck3358Only by IEC. In the US they are derated to 20A to meet our standard which are stricter and safer than IEC junk. Only 20A in Japan too!

@@professorg8383 theyre rated for 32A in USA too. its only 20A if you use thinner 12 awg cable.

@@techheck3358 ​ @techheck3358 No you are entirely wrong about that. They are marked with the IEC rating of 32 A and the Japanese standard of 20 A but only the UL symbol. UL derated the current to 20A, just like the Japanese and UL only approves up to 12AWG. Did you know that the standard voltage in Japan residential is 100 Volts? Did you know that IEC standards are determined completely different than UL, NEC and NEMA standards? Did you know that the IEC does not test and does almost no 3rd party testing? Did you know that as much as 98% of IEC certifications are "self certified" by the manufacture? Did you know that these connectors inherently have higher resistance than wire nut or screw connections? Right out if the box! As much as 10 times more. Did you know that heating of a connection is the current squared times the resistance? Do you know why that matters with 120 volts in the US or 100 volts in Japan, differently than the 230 volt standard voltage in Europe? Did you ever take a WAGO apart and look at the miniscule contact area and the two dissimilar metals, (copper and steel), used in the WAGO connector? Lastly, Do you understand basic electrical theory? Actually formally trained in it? Or do you just know wiring principles?

Sure, guy.

green & yellow innit?

@@GodlyNoghri yes, my fault

На кабелях большого диаметра да, а на этом зачем? И так изоляции замного получается ;)

That’s the question no one will answer

@@efixx I'll answer, NO it isn't

MF has to do with the enclosure as well as the connector, I very much doubt Wago have type tested their products with heat shrink sleeving so the answer would be “No”.

You have to lube it weekly

526.3(ii) "A compound-filled or encapsulated joint". Pretty sure you could argue that it is, because it's encapsulated in the glue lining of the heatshrink. Though if you were going to that extent, you'd be better off saving the Wago connectors and soldering or crimping the connection (526.3(iv)) then heatshrinking. But that's just me!

Maybe conduit or a neater finish in trunking. Them Hager maintenance free are great but they are bulky

@@callumsimpson7483 efix did a video a while back saying wagos and alike can't be used in trunking

​@@TeamSimpsonRacingWith heatshrink you would have to use a tool to access the joint. So the use of heatshrink would make it compliant.

@@rayc1503 incorrect

​@@rayc1503Really.......and where do Wago say that ?

!Verdad!

"adhesive heat-shrink 3M-MDT-A" from the video description - up to 4.5 to1 shrink ratio

@@ericy4522 Cheers @ericy4522 Going by the video it’s 32/7.5 so inner bore before shrink is 32 and inner after shrink is 7.5 by 3M website. But that’s only 4.2:1 😉😉😉 I like how they print it on the tube so you know exactly what to expect unlike other shrinks. Best regards, Scott. ✌️🙏✌️

Это обычные клеммы Wago, в них нет никакого припоя. И подобное соединение должно делаться в распредкоробке, чтобы к нему был доступ. Зачем тут термоусадка, я не понимаю.

​@@DenisAleksandrovLV ещё и в 2-3 раза больше самих проводов ( в диаметре ). Клеммы недопустимы в соединении , со временем слабеют . Особенно если провод используется постоянно , а не лежит всю жизнь на полу .

@@the_ow1, клеммы недопустимы только на необслуживаемых соединениях.