SUPPLIES: EXTRA HEAVY DUTY 20A-125V HOSPITAL GRADE GFCI www.amazon.com/dp/B019A300IY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20A-125V DUPLEX RECEPTACLE www.amazon.com/dp/B003ATOLXA?... 12/3 CABLE www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-cords-surge-protectors/extension-cords/cerrowire-reg-sjoow-portable-power-cable/282-3603a3/p-1444439080901.htm 15a GREEN GLOW PLUG www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Round-Dead-Front-Plug-Clear-R50-515PV-LIT/205165460?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_002_WIRING_DEVIC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3-71700000082410799-58700006989412248-92700062912530177&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw6u1iL799AIVv2pvBB3hNwtwEAQYASABEgI_XPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds GANG BOX WITH GROUND BUMP www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-City-1-Gang-4-in-New-Work-Metal-Electrical-Wall-Box-with-Ground-Bump-521511234GB-50R/206166843 GROUND SCREW www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-10-32-UNF-Thread-Grounding-Screw-Green-10-Pack-G30002-PK10/310741863 CORD STRAIN RELIEF for 1/2 KNOCKOUT www.mcmaster.com/69915K64/ TOOLS: KLEIN LINEMAN - GLOW IN THE DARK! hausoftools.com/products/klein-tools-d20009neglw-side-cutter-linemans-pliers?_pos=12&_sid=610b5b57a&_ss=r KLEIN JOURNEYMAN MULTI-PLIERS www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J46PC2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 KLEIN TESTER www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Receptacle-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D27E-G-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-Feed-SMART-2181312-WF-New_Engen+PL3-71700000082410808-58700006989412257-92700062912530339&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIicfPov799AIVgs53Ch2MoQClEAQYASABEgLvD_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I retired from a large ( 550 bed ) hospital. Facilities always used the Cadillac of devices HUBBELL but contractors used the cheapest brand hospital grade . Big difference. We had a $5,000 tester that would measure the force required on the ground pin when removing UT from the HG receptacles. Also checked polarity and resistance between found & the neutral wire. Every time we replaced a HG receptacle in patient room or the OR had to use this tester and document it.

Love it and want to build my own. I’m a electrician so watching this made me cringe a little but to be honest you didn’t do half bad so good stuff man.

A 4”x4” standard electrical box you used is also called a 1900 box in the electrical trade. Since it is a metal box, I would use electrical tape around each outlet to protect it from the bare ground wire hitting the hot wires. Also, they sell reducing rings to reduce the size of the hole in the electrical box to make it the smaller size that you needed. It is a nice extension cord box but OSHA would not allow its use on commercial/industrial worksites.

My goodness you made a simple job extremely hard.

Also, the newer inventory of 4”x4” metal covers already comes with the mounting hardware nuts and bolts already properly sized so you don’t have to cut longer bolts to fit

Makes perfect sense. FYI, red receptacles in a hospital do not necessarily mean they are "hospital grade". It means, in a health care environment, that they are on an emergency power circuit along with red light switches .

Great! Now call and get a UL inspector to come to test and list your assembly. Extension cords are required by law to be tested and listed by an approved agency. They will happily come and do that service for you. BTW, about 15 years ago, I got a quote of $2,200 for them to look at an assembly we had to custom make. The problem is, it will not be approved. The box and cover used are not tested and listed for extension cords. The receptacles are not tested and listed for extension cords. The plug used is 15 amp rated and the receptacles are 20 amp rated. It is in NEC that you can not use 20 amp devices on 15 amp branch circuits. If the branch circuit breaker is 15 amp, then plugging in would be a violation of NEC as well. Can you use it, sure. Can others use it? Not unless you are ok with possible law suits for someone getting hurt or worse. Always be safe! The life you save may just be your own.

Don’t buy Hospital grade, it’s the same as commercial grade but certified, so you’re paying extra.

What makes them hospital grade is the pressure of the “clamp” inside the outlet that “grabs” onto the plug end of electrical devices. I’m paraphrasing but it’s the tightness that the outlet holds onto the plug ends inside the receptacle.

Now if you clean it and sand and tape it off, and spray with bed liner, it will be cool! Give it a water resistance, and prevent rust!

Not a bad build with one significant and possibly hazardous mistake. You used 20A outlets with a 15A plug and 15A rated wire. The 15A plug will work when plugged into a 20A outlet which will allow more current than the plug and cord are rated to carry. A lit plug was also unnecessary because the GFCI has a built in light that indicates that power is present at the GFCI. 20A circuits should be wired with 10ga wire.

Not a dig on your work at all, tackling something you've never done is absolutely rewarding. It came together very nicely and looks great! But I couldn't help laughing when you made the hook for the ground and you straightened it out and bent it again instead of twisting it 180.

Nice quad box. You should get decades of use out of that. One thing I do different is to use the plastic outdoor boxes and just file off the mounting tabs. They are dust/water proof at least up to the outlets. Doesn't sound like much difference but that 2" of waterproof can make a difference if you spill a bucket of water on the ground or use it outside and will keep out metal filings or dust from entering the box. I have found them just as strong as the metal boxes for banging them around. Second thing to keep in mind is that the GFCI only protects upstream of the outlet, water infiltration into that box or a damaged cable downstream isn't protected. You can get GFCI plugs that would protect the whole assembly. (edit) Also thought I'd mention that these quad boxes, although in use on just about every live sound stage in existence, are not technically code compliant. Whether using the metal box or the outdoor plastic one, both of those boxes are listed for permanent installation so using them in a portable setting is a violation as they are not listed for that purpose. I have never seen anyone called for it on stage but they technically can. Also for professional use, most inspectors in the US want to see SOOW cable while SJOOW is fine for CANADA. For those of you who don't know the difference, SOOW is like wrestling garden hose for the same gauge wiring as it has much thicker and tougher (and heavier) insulation.

I heard the red outlet was because it's on the backup circuit, so if there is a power outage, the generator will powder the outlet, I only wired orange, IG isolated ground outlets, for computers , but about any outlet in a bright unusual color really stands out!

If you’re making a 20 amp box you should have a 20amp plug on the end of the wire not a 15amp.

To be honest this was super frustrating to watch as an experienced controls technician. At the same time I give 100% respect to you for going outside your skill set to learn. We have all been there! Good job! Excellent job on the plug.

this was a shop class project for me 20+ years ago .. that quad box is used every single day .. if you dont have one you def need one

If using it outdoors, do yourself a favor, spend a couple more bucks and use a weather proof box. Get the strain relief with threads to fit the box, and use a gasket under your cover plate. Silicone on the box plugs is great too. Play it safe.

I have been doing electrical for over 15 years so I know from experience how to do things like you are doing in the video efficiently. It's a lot easier to trim off the parts of the yoke to make it fit inside the industrial cover and then put on the pigtails before you connect it to the grounds in the box. You can terminate all the pigtails to both devices and then put the cover and finally do the connections and close everything up. It's also easier to remove the tabs off the yoke so it will fit inside the industrial cover. You are supposed to use 6-32 screws for devices rather than 8-32. Another thing is you broke off too much of the tab on the receptacle . Also, those things you took off the industrial cover are like a built in nut so you can screw the existing 6-32 device screw into it. You break them off then use them as a nut behind the yoke of the receptacle.

I made one before but i used an outdoor rated non metallic box with outlet covers.. The covers are great because they keep the the dust out when not in use.. The outdoor rated box is also better than the metal because they weigh less and are non conductive.. Because why would you want to touch that box in the event that if became grounded? Think about it. You are grounding it to the metal housing. that you have to physically pick up. And since you are not using metal conduit that potential will be there to shock the guacamole out of your pooper scooper. Edit..I understood that the GFCI is there to cut off power.. But the scenario I'm talking about is one in which part of the wire came lose and was touching the box.

There are reducing washers that can be used if you have a box with a knockout that is bigger than that of the fitting you are installing. There are also box seals that you are supposed to install if you have a knockout that needs to be closed up.

Also red plugs in hospitals are hot when the generator is on.

Great idea - however, not quite ultimate. The NEC does not allow that type of box for portable use, due to the possibility of one or more knockouts coming loose after rough handling and falling out, exposing the wiring inside. A solid cast aluminum double gang box of the outdoor variety would be preferable as the ports are threaded, and the plugs can be put in more permanently. I'm not sure the NEC likes that much better, but the plugs can be put in with red or green Loctite, and will never come out. The best solution is the rubber boxes from Leviton or O.A. Windsor designed and approved specifically for portable cord use. Much more pricy, however.

Love this video - was getting "kid playing with tools in dad's garage" vibes the entire time, lol

My dude, they have, the hospital grade GFCI WITH Usb type C and regular usb. Ultimate is a stretch for that no nightlight no usb charging thing.

Stud Pack???

If you swipe a magnet on your screwdriver in the same direction a few times it will magnetize it I always did that trick to keep screws holding onto the screwdriver

UL has issued warnings using metal boxes with pre-press K.O. for this purpose. The K.O. can get pushed in and cause shorts and/or allow access holes that fingers can go into. UL has issued a ban on them. They do allow boxes without prepresed KOs.

1:27 seeing your grandpa's IBEW card gave me tears as I recently lost my dad and he was a (A) journeyman @I.B.E.W. for 35 years😢

Nice build. U are the man.

I built one of these myself several years ago after seeing one in my brother's garage. Working in metal fabrication, I snagged an empty welding wire reel from the dumpster and mounted my box to it.

I use those “snap off” ears as washers. Also wrap some electrical tape outside of each receptacle. Because of the metal box.

NEVER TIGHTEN DOWN ONTO THE INSULATION!!!! Thats how fires start, it causes the connection to not be clamped securely on the copper and therefore creates heat and then you have problems. Also i know this is a few months ago, but hopefully it can be addressed before its too late. @17:07 when you say thats too much, its actually perfect, by cutting off more it caused you to clamp down onto the insulation.

The video you copied this from only took 18 minutes to teach it - and the quality was better. But your outlets are red..

Now im no electrician but there is alot of extra work done in this video great idea and i just might copy this one

Nice to meet another Golden

Thanks for sharing you grandpas on IBEW card. I’m retired from local #48, out of Portland OR. Thanks again!

Now if only you used 10ga,, made it 5 times longer. had 20 amp plug and outdoor covers and coated the box with thick rubber or vinyl. Oh and an inline circuit breaker

I always loved the red color for some reason

I tech school we were told its good to tape the plugs since its in a metal box. But looks good man

I just finished making my own quad box's. I use to do sound and lighting events before C19 killed it. It was fun... Its called a J-Hook. Ha! The thing I did with mine is spray some of the liquid electrical tape in case something gets looses and doesn't try to short something.Some just use 3M electrical tape but I live in AZ and that could get messy in the summer. Nice job!

I made a couple 50' with a 20A plug, 20A commercial grade receptacles but with a 3 gang PVC box and a triple duplex cover... P/N "RDRC-20-3"... They may be plastic but will take some abuse.

been doing things like this for 45 yrs, just read a few books. easy

It appears that you got the LINE and LOAD reversed. On the GFCI the LINE is where you connect the power coming in from your Breaker Panel and the Load is where you connect power going to the second outlet. If you do not do this correctly, the second outlet will not have GFCI protection...

Why the gloved hands?? It must be really tough work.

It’s not cheap. It’s about $75-$80 in parts. I suppose it’s a good little project and something that will last a looong time. Worth it i think.

Good stuff! Love the confidence and willingness to share. Keep going! Also looks like the fine folks at @StudPack have inspired a mini genre of "gang box videos".

You should have electrical taped the outlets after you put the screws in

Good job

Did you watch that Stud Pack episode? Thinking someone should make a silicone, rubber, OtterBox type bumper covering to snap over the duplex box maybe with a built in handle and/or hook?. Would be cool

Only comment I have that’s anywhere near negative is I’d be more careful about grabbing the cord right after finishing it before testing it! You plugged it in and went right to grab the metal enclosure. If there was a short you would’ve been in for a surprise! Personally I would’ve plugged in your tester first, then plugged in the cord to check for issues.

you should have used a 20 Amp plug since you have 20 AMP outlets

Nice job!

The plug needs to be hospital grade also ( Green Dot), if your going that route. Also ,In California you can eliminate isolated grounds. "Red" is emergency power. Red is always hot emergency or city power. "Orange" is for isolated grounds. Retired Biomedical Engineer.

I usally make the ground wire a tid bit longer than the other wires.

One thing daisy chain the grounds from cord to box then plug to much wire in box the fewer the connection the better and no wire nuts in a box that will see ruff use can loose over time.

Does box itself get hooked to ground ? As you put ground wires to its case, so does there need to be a external wire grounding ground to building ground rod ?

Always give any receptacles or switches a “courtesy wrap” of electrical tape. Especially in a metal box, it’s just added security that you don’t get a short circuit between ground or neutral to hot. Also makes it safer if it is ever taken apart while hot- reduces risk of an accident

Extra heavy duty? I saw a DIY one with armored cable :D

the red outlets in hospitals have power from generator in case of power loss

i might have to build one of these to keep on my truck for using with the inverter, and for use with my generator when camping or when working on projects, great video, and yeah, as you said, this thing should last a good long wile, and be useful for ever

I made mine using submarine hyprophone cable that was rubber coated, shielded with 7 leads, so 3 for each conductor and 1 lead for ground besides the shielding.

Save space. You don’t need to pigtail the grounds to the receptacles with that cover as long as box is bonded.

Compared to other Pro-Plus solutions from Leviton...the hospital variant has a stronger retention method and the red signifies it is intended to be used on circuits powered by redundant sources (such as generator).

cool..glo in the dark..

Work all day and night till next morning (sun up, sun down, sun up) 😉... good box

To add onto the other things said about hospital grade recepticals is they have an isolated ground so that if there is ever a ground fault it goes instantly back to the panel and knocks out the breaker instantaneously so no one is injured

What makes it "hospital grade" is the tension of the outlet slots. So the plug won't pull out so easily.

In the UK red power outlets are red if they are on a UPS or Generator supplied circuit. We also use red connection wall boxes for fire alarm systems.

Good video. I don't get the gloves, though? Is it cold out?

ahhhh yes the most important tool a nerf jolt

I have one similar that my dad (IBEW301) but it is a plastic box that is watertight. However I should probably upgrade to gfci.

Nice job! I dig the red outlets!

I gotta admit, I almost stopped watching when it looked like you didn't even know which knock-out to remove for your strain-relief, but you recovered nicely. I would also have to admit that Stud-Pack may have done a little better job than you on explaining the procedure, but again, yours was OK. Thank you for your video. newer guys always benefit from these instructional videos.

You commented about not being sure what was different about hospital grade outlets. Per UL, they are subjected to more stringent testing for reliability (as well as other tests that all equate to more reliability and durability). In essence you paid far more for the outlets than you needed to, but for a small project like this it equates to less than I spent yesterday on a burger for lunch. Since you are not likely to be using this extension cord for life support equipment, the certification of durability by UL vs standard UL certification of outlets does not really amount to much, and you are plugging it into unknown outlets as it is. Personally I think you would of been better off with a longer length of cord for it (I would personally go no less than 25 and preferably 50 feet since your plug limits you to 15 amps (with a 20 amp plug, you would need to step up to 10g or better wire to get a 50' run)... It appears you have maybe 20 feet there), but for being your first electrical project, well done.

provided the receptacles you're using are self-grounding (which yours are - you can tell by the brass tab on the bottom screw) you could have just grounded the box with the line ground since it's a metallic box. there's never a reason to ground both the box and the receptacle. if it were a nonmetallic box you could just run the ground pigtails off the line.

I have one my father in law built with SJ cord about 50’

Woww galing mo ah bebu hehe good job and nice san miguel mug!

WAGO team 👇

@the midnight chopper where did you get the cord you used in the videos

i have the exact same wood pen cup at my workbench.

I was making these 30 years ago!

Nice, inspired to make one, because I have some pesky ghosts I want to get rid of.

You can not put a 15 amp male plug on circuit that is rated for 20 amps.You need a 20 amp male plug.

What makes those outlets different is the fact that they have an isolated ground specifically designed for sensitive equipment

Thank you for sharing. It’s a great work and a very useful tool. I would have started by fitting the two receptacles in the upper plate and cutting off the ears before the cables were plugged. I will try to build it myself, following your video. Regards from Costa Rica

Another great trick is to have one receptacle facing 1 direction and the second one opposite direction with the hot side ( black wire ) facing one another so in case both come loose they will not short out on side of box.

watching you fumble through this has permanently scared my psyche. I want you to know that. Thanks for the content. also... i just want to add..... this thing costs near $160 to make.....

Showed up in my recommended. Always curious about those hospital outlets.

I'm gonna add clamps to temporary connect to lineside of utility.

If your not a electrician we should be listening to these so called “experts” on KZfaq. Be careful you you listen too. Go to the right people for advice. I’m not going to go a doctor to seek advise on what my gauges should be when running 4 outlets .

It's always fun to watch an incompetent stepdad play with the tools his wife bought him to keep him away from the kids.

I want to make one for an auto detail setup.. but I’d prefer a non metallic box, which I have no idea how I’d ground in a non metallic box. Also, would it be possible to fill the box, once 100% confident it’s made proper and done, with epoxy to seal the entire thing?

While you did a good job on this, you missed out making it even better by using a weather proof box and one of those covers that allow you to plug things in and still close the cover just in case it's outside and it rains without you knowing it so it keeps the rain out. Plus it won't rust as easily if it does get wet. The red or orange color in a hospital usually means they are connected to the backup generator when there is a main power failure. They are usually connected through the transfer switch that allows them to connect to the main and backup power. Also be careful using extra tight plugs that you'll be plugging and unplugging things from often as it will cause excessive ware on the blades on the plug and might cause them to come loose and pull out of the cord you are plugging into them.

Love it

Interesting to me that my dad joined the navy years before your Grampa got his qualifications, and I didn't think you appeared to be that much younger than I am. Guess my dad was 40 when he had me, and I'm about that now.

Magnetic Nut Driver is your friend...

Uve got it right. Knipex, Not nipex.

Get the box powder coated?