but otherwise very good, I guess what type of nut you use depends on your preference and what it needs to do

I've heard of this method, but I have yet to try it. This is the method I've used, and it has worked extremely well. Now, it is not the "perfect" solution, but this is a solution better than the things that first come to an inexperienced builder (I would know, I was once one) :) I plan on trying some of these ideas in the future, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

I agree your methods work well and are sturdy. Much better than most

Thanks, I appreciate the constructive criticism :)

Also thank you so much for this video, it really helped

Well now it’s ruined

No he doesn't

I was like omg is this mini matpat? To me he sounds like matpat

I don't have it built right now, but it is a good thirty inches or more.

You’d have to add some sort of instrument on the end, whether that is a forklift type thing, or some sort of claw.

@@KeplerElectronics Thanks! That makes more sense!

i did a double reverse 4 bar in 6th grade, im searching trying to remember how to build it

Like one four bar and a reversed four bar(which is facing the other way) so there will be no swing

I decided that the DR4B would be plenty for its own video, as there are a number of things that make the building complex and harder to follow. I thought that rolling that into this video would make one really long video, and that would be more confusing for new builders.

Scissor lifts have one point that is attached, and another point that is moving (like a linear slide), and by moving the points closer together, the lift moves up. Whereas the bar lift has two bars that are stationary, and by rotating one bar, the lift extends. Also, a Scissor lift is usually mounted parallel to the ground, whereas a bar lift is usually mounted perpendicular to the ground.

Kepler Electronics I want to see you build a robot with a scissor lift instead of a normal 4 or six bar 😂

Tech Grid Gaming r/wooosh

TanKT1ger a wooosh is when somebody doesn’t get a joke, so yes, it applies

TanKT1ger Ooooooooooooohhhh, I apologize, the wooosh is in me

TanKT1ger welp this is awkward

Quinn McGinley there’s an edit feature

If you have a better method, feel free to let me know. I've had great success with this method, and I haven't seen a method that achieves a good balance of stability and low friction.

Kepler Electronics At each join you should only have 1 bearing the other c channel you do the nylock up fully tight to the channel with the screw on that channel and then put the slightly loose on the other side of the bearing which you should put on the inside of the channel. And between the bearing and that loose nylock you should have the smallest nylon spacer and you tighten that nylock until that spacer starts to become slightly difficult to spin. It's lighter as it has one bearing and so also less screws, it is more stable as at each joint you only have one place on the screw the joint can move and not two and with the spacer you can get the friction perfect and it makes no difference to the friction having one bearing not two.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to try that sometime.

Kepler Electronics I can make a quick vid comparing our methods and put it on my channel if you would like

Feel free to do so, I look forward to the results :)