I came for quick tips on panos but ended watching the whole video because of the great explanations and the incredible photos. Thanks Adam!!

Panorama is something you need to make a print out of it to be able to admire the sheer awesomeness of the world. All the efforts of doing pano makes it worth every bits.

As usual a useful video, easy to understand, well thought out and entertaining too. Nicely done Adam.

Great! The tip about the stance is gold! Thanks Adam.

So very helpful, much appreciated and look forward to more like this!

This is a great video Adam on photographing panorama scenes with some great tips form composing the photo to printing it. Excellent and thanks.

Really beautiful panoramic photos. Well done, Adam.

Great video! Brilliant breakdown on every stage 👍🏼

Such a beautiful printed image Adam. Absolute stunner! 🙌🙌🙌

Great video and tutorial. The images look amazing!

Excellent work. Thank you Adam

Excellent explanation of all aspects of panorama photography. Thank you for sharing.

Thank you Adam. Yet another top video.

The smile of your face there Adam showing that pano print off was as wide as the image you just printed and no wonder, it was a thing of beauty. The rainbow image was superb too and loved the final edit. Likewise , I use Fotospeed paper, so will check and see if their pano paper is compatible with my Canon Pro 10s. Liked the fact you can now print from the roll from the Pro-1000

Great advice and video, very helpful and enjoying your channel!

I look forward to a couple of trips this year to places that will lend themselves to panoramas. The last pano I shot was in Arizona, several years ago. I recently combined three similarly-themed photos into a triptych and printed it on Inkpress Media metallic satin pano paper. It's actually 13"-wide roll paper but B&H sells packs of 25 sheets cut to 38". Trimmed, my print is 13" x 30". It's hanging in my living room now and it's gorgeous. Maybe you could talk about combining images into diptychs and triptychs, a very old-master approach to artistic story-telling. Thanks for your great content.

Thanks for tip about pointing your feet in the direction of where you want to finish a pano. My favourite pano that I've shot is of a dam about a 45 minute drive from where I live using an ultra wide lens. I like the perspective view that I captured.

Superb.. thanks for sharing.. some pertinent points made. Love your sincerity ❤️🙏🏽

Thank you for these videos that inspire us in more ways than one.

An excellent instructional presentation Adam, from start to finish of the process. I was particularly impressed with the editing of the rainbow image, i for one would have never envisaged that result from the original image, brilliant!!

Such great tips and so well spoken. Bravo 👏

Absolutely brilliant video thanks. This has really helped me a lot.

Beautiful!

Thank you Adam your panorama shots were awesome…your smile when you got to the end of the rainbow told it all….great captures and prints.

You are a breath of authentic and unpretentious air, sir

Adam, this video is a very good instructional video explained in a way that everyone can understand and use. Explaining from start to finish is so helpful. Thank you for your great videos!

Great video , many thanks , top stuff , regards from NZ

Very useful and informative tutorial, thank you, Adam.

Adam, fantastic VLOG! Great guidance and information. Rainbow pano is amazing

Thank you Adam that was a very interesting guide, it was so helpful having so mush detain in the one session.

Great instruction Adam, I loved the image. The sky reminded me of a Maxfield Parrish Painting.

Fantastic photo and print! I do panos often and keep a short cheatsheet on hand with the nodalpoints of various lenses I use. It's actually not the nodalpoint but most people just refer to it in that way. It is definitely not the position of the physical aperture though, and the position is different for every focal length on a zoom. Zeiss will give you the nodalpoint position to the millimeter for all their lenses btw in their specs. That said, it's mostly irreleveant for distant subjects or things with soft features like water like you said.

great video and love the rainbow shot!

This video just popped up in my feed, and I’m glad it did, inspirational. Very well done!

Thank you so much for the video, go some good idea for shooting panorama with the use of lenses horizontally and vertically .

Adam, your print looks amazing. I’ve admired that particular photograph since I first saw it on one of your videos. I only have a $90 printer, good for US Letter and A4 and smaller, but not panos. It does produce surprisingly good results when printing on decent paper and punches well above its weight. I was shocked by it. I do have a couple of panoramas I would like to print, but I would need to send them to a decent custom lab to get good results. But that’s also true of anything I want to get printed a decent size. But your video makes me think I would like to work on my panoramas and produce a few this year if I’m in a landscape that is conducive to a panorama. Thanks for the inspiration.

Beautiful shot !

Loved the film Adam. I'm a massive fan of a panorama and look for every opportunity to take one. I also enjoy the process of setting up the tripod as accurately as possible. Great image of Kelly Hall Tarn (I believe) too.

Brilliant vlog, Adam. Thank you very much 🙂 Really helpful and beautifully described.

Brilliant video 👍

Very nice. Two related questions: what aspect ratio is your final file, and how what are the dimensions of that print? Thanks for the videos.

Thanks Adam! Very helpful information!

Enjoyed the video. Beautiful images! I was waiting for a discussion about the nodal point and you did eventually get to it. Was glad to see that. There are some other videos out there for those who are asking themselves “How do I find that nodal point on my lens?”.

Great video. Apple vision is coming and i want panaroma for every mountain i hike. I have r6 mk2 with 70-105mm. thank you for explaining everything so easily.

Great video and makes me want to get out and shoot more panos

Excellent!

This was a great video. I use an EOS R, 70 - 200 f4, and Acratec pano gear to make extremely detailed high resolution images. I have settled on 2:4.5 and 2:6 aspect ratios. I make prints as large as 36”x108” with incredible detail.

Well explained, simple to follow, do more videos like this

Amazing video. Thank you!

Great video thank you. Is there a guide for the degrees to pan the camera based on lens focal length?

Learned a lot in this video, I will attempt to print my own as appose to sending out for prints. thanks man.

Nice shot!

Hello Adam, Nice little video about Panoramas. One thing I quit often do if I am going to take more then one panorama is to at the end of each series of images it to shoot a plank image i.e. The back of my hand. The alter my setting or recompose the next seen. Then when I am processing all the images it is simple to separate each panorama. Fotospeed do an amazing selection of. roll paper to. Keep well, keep safe and stay happy.

Thank you, I will start to take panorama in woodland so Your Video is a good information source. I will get the Nodal slide a Levering plate and a panorama head. I will use a Zeiss 50mmF2.0 Macro or a Nikon 45mmF2.8 PC. For open landscape I will get an AFS70-200mm E VR to my D700/D800E I have an 85mm F2.8 PC lens that I will try to use but it may be too short. I also have a 24mmF3.5 PC but I'm not sure if a wide angle is a good choice for panorama due to distortion.

Precise clear-cut instructions. Thank you. You did say we need to use manual settings. But do we set the exposure for the brightest frame, the darkest frame, or somewhere in between? Some insight into that will be helpful. If you did and I missed it, my apologies.

Nice!

Thank you so much for this video , i had a shoot and a night before i wasnt able to sleep because i didnt know how to click a panorama when i was told last moment i would need this.Thank you again Regards india 🇮🇳

Excellent instruction. I don't do panos often and attempted one a couple of days ago that didn't go so well. Though it did motivate me to work on that skill and get that shot next time. This video is brilliant timing and very useful. 👍

Thanks, Adam! Great tutorial. Don't think I can share an image here, but I went out and composed a few panoramas today after watching your vid.

Great video 😀

All valid and relevant. Here are some additions. We use panorama shots as a way to increase resolution compared to the single shot with a wider lens. For example the rainbow shot could have easily been taken with the 15..something zoom-lens in one shot. But at such large print formats, you run into the limitations of camera+lens sharpness (detail resolution) and limitations in the ability of your tools in post to generate many more dots than you have photosites in your sensor (a sensor does not have pixels - does not have RGB - nor does a raw file). As the panorama shot relies on a moderate telephoto lens, parallax shift is not a problem and Lightroom (Lr) can easily stitch this. I have had - handheld - panorama shots that had some mismatch in the foreground and Lr refused to do it. But Photoshop (Ps) actually was able to do it in a way that I could not see a problem. The video seems to say that stitching is done first and exposure correction second. I might start with exposure and tint correction. Potentially shifting white point or black point in an identical way for all member shots. Then stitch. As Ps wants images out of Camera Raw (CR) or Lr, choosing Ps means this is the way to go. I have tried Topaz's GigaPixel AI (TGPAI) and this does its own raw processing, irrespective of what you did in Lr (I always use sidecar files). So if you end up upsampling in TGPAI, make exposure corrections there, export the images and stitch in Ps. TGPAI can upsample to 32,000 pixels on the long side of your frame and you can pretty much generate an amount of pixels in a panorama that your printer has its dots-per-inch set (or approach that). This means you do not rely on stupid basic mathematical extrapolation when a single pixel is converted into, say, 4 or a bunch. TGPAI was able to recover detail to a surprising level. And Ps would stitch the member frames in the blink of an eye on my beast workstation (16 cores, 5.1GHz, 64GB RAM and 11GB video RAM with SSD RAID 0 arrays where I want speed and RAID 1 where I want reliability). No, my beast notebook could not do it (12 cores, 3GHz, a6GB RAM, 4GB video RAM - both W10 64bits). The notebook should be able to drive 2 displays of 4K and it can, but then Lr cannot properly process my 46MP raw files any more and it comes to a grinding halt or reboots without blue-screen - Lr generates previews based on your display's horizontal resolution and 7680 was too much. A nodal slide to prevent parallax shift can be cheap and easy. If you already have an L-bracket with Arca profile, you have one building block. The ballhead in the video (Manfrotto - I have that exact one) has a quick release top plate. But what we want is, to use the top plate for levelling and rotating. So, I replaced the top plate by a rotating Arca compatible mount disc (Sunwayfoto DDH-06 that is very cheap and great value and has a bubble level. Most cameras have L-R level indication but not F-B. The mounting screw with the disc fitted Manfrotto's mounting screw hole in the stud on the ball). Now a nodal rail fits the ball-head's mount plate. The rider on the nodal slide then accepts my Arca L-bracket with camera. How to find the nodal point is easy when you have an assistant, a tripod for the camera and a pair of sticks that remain standing (like light stands). Place one of these stands in the frame at some distance, not too far. Then look through the viewfinder and let the assistant place the other stand farther away in a position where you cannot see it because it is behind the first stand you placed in the frame. The nodal point is where rotating the camera leaves the second stand invisible in the viewfinder. I would verify if the nodal point changes when you zoom and when you change focal distance. If I remember my optics lessons correctly, it is possible for a lens to have a virtual nodal point, not necessarily identical with the physical entry pupil (the diaphragm's opening - the word aperture means opening). As panorama stitching might be your approach to have many more pixels and detail, the tripod is essential as it prevents motion blur. Dynamic range of digital cameras is so great now that what we think is luminance/chroma noise may actually be motion blur. Finally, your camera may have a lens database for your brand's lenses. Such a database holds all sorts of properties. A lens may have some barrel or pincushion distortion and this field curvature makes precise stitching a bit harder. It is worth being tested, when you go down this path, to see if in camera corrections to member shots align better or easier in post - Lr/CR can do this too, to certain extent, if your lens is recognized and you enable lens profile based corrections. So if you have a need for speed in panorama shooting, then there is one thing, not cheap, that you can throw in the kit mix: a dedicated panorama disc that you can enter your lens's focal length or angle into and then it presents you with stops for the individual member shots with proper overlap. Another thing is, if you have a super wide lens with you, or one that is wide enough to capture your composition in one take, then I would always start with taking that shot. And see what the result looks like after you upsampled (*) it with e.g. TGPAI. (*) I distinguish "upscale" from "upsample". I use upscale for naive invention of pixels, but upsample for an approach that assesses each source pixel in its wide context, so it takes gradation, shapes and edges into account. If you print large from, say, Lr, you are served with upscaling between Lr, printer driver and the printer's built-in engine. I prefer to take control.

This was actually very inspiring! I'll have a whack at panoramas myself the next time I get a chance :D I wonder how much of the near foreground can you actually shoot so that the change in perspective doesn't make it unstitchable. Anyway, great work with these videos !

Thanks heaps Adam! Excellent video. A question I do have is of aspect ratio settings within our cameras, many of us are using full frame at a natural 3:2 ratio. Should we change to a different ration for shooting panaramas?

Great video, thank you!! I was lazy a few times and just got a handheld pano using autofocus and never had a problem with the sharpness or details, maybe lightroom has some "focus-stacking" ability or I just focused on the same focal point, I don´t know... I would be curious how to do a focus stacking AND a panorama, for example when you want to do multiple layers of a pano, not just one line and what happens, when you focus on your foreground in one line and your background in the second line and merge them in LR, any experience? Thnak you!!

That photo at the end looks absolutely amazing, I've been using the Tamron 18-300mm lens for a lot of my panoramics, don't know whether to buy a second hand Canon 70-200mm lens, they are not cheap

Thank you Adam for the video. I have a question for you. I had been doing some pano's in LR for awhile this past month to check it out.....however, I did send the images over to PS a few times and to me PS does a way better job of stitching, finding the edges. Have you seen that yourself? I really do. Some are 5 images and a few are 15 to 33. They come out really great. Neither programs like doing large sunset sky images with far off mountains. Have you had issues with that yourself? Clouds match up perfectly, so I don't quite know what to make of it. Thanks from Montana.

nice video indeed

Awesome Vlog Adam.

Fantastic video. Off to Lanzarote in May and will try this method. BTW, do you know if it works the same for say a receding line of hills rather than one that is 'face on'? Thanks again.

What a great video!!! Very informative and easy to understand.. I would like to get some help in more details of how to do this pano on Canon Pro1000 as it’s bit intimidating for first time pano printing specially never used a roll before in such printer

Waaw your print looks huge. I once shot a pano but the strip band was tin any idea ?

great video - what were the print settings please - DPI and dimensions etc ??

Thank you for a great video. One quick question. Where did you focus?

You omitted the step I really needed which is how to scale the image in L.R or P.S to get the printer to print the pano from the roll.

Thanks Adam, great video. Any tips on where to get pano's printed if you don't have your own printer?

Hi Adam. You talked about which Ball Head was unsuitable but what is the Head you are using and is it on a separate leveling base? And secondly you were talking about fixing your Focus and using Manual. What do you do about your White Balance settings.

The rainbow one was so nice!!! It's funny you still got time to take a short video to record how you did it.

I love taking pictures but I never get to see them afterwards. But at my work I have a two monitors and panoramic pictures are great to use on them since it allows me to get the wide view. I have many panoramas by now and have them on a slide show on my desktop. It's also a great way to start a meeting when I'm presenting because most of the time my colleagues focuses on the pictures and we casually start the meeting. So my point is panoramas are great on monitors of you have more than one monitor or a wide monitor.

Hello Adam, yes! I am still enjoying your book which I love. Question: Would I be correct in saying that there is no timer delay when taking your image? And secondly, why are so many vloggers not using a cable release?

Hi thanks for the video.. I am using lightroom CC. my question is, what is the sequence of taking multiple photos for merging? where I have a horizontal building scene with sky and sea, does it matter where to start? should i start 1- from sky to sea or 2- from sea to sky or 3- from left to right then sky then sea? Thanks

Really great result Adam, appreciate your process in doing Pano's. I thought it was quite funny when you said that when doing a panorama shot go from left to right, then when you did the rainbow you went from right to left......Not that it mattered as you still achieved the result.

Great video Adam. Just a couple of points: removing the curl from roll paper is quite tricky. I weight mine with hefty books but am tempted by Fotospeed’s decurling device but it’s not cheap! Once I’ve got the panorama printed framing can prove pretty expensive too so I usually leave it but it then looks unfinished!

Brill 👍🏻

Great informative video Adam. This is something I would like to have a go at. Would you say you have a "go to" aspect cropping ratio for the majority of your prints - I'm also thinking about this in regards to getting prints done - as I don't have photo printer will certain sizes/aspect ratios be better/easier for printing. Thanks Martin

Beautiful prints Adam. Would I be right in thinking that last print was a 17"x44 ish"?

Thank you for the great tutorial! I'm going to be photographing Native American models in a tipi to use as reference for fine art painting. I assume I'll be very close to them when I photograph them, probably 5 feet away give or take. They will most likely be sitting or kneeling next to each other, about 3-4 persons in all. Seems like panos would be a great way to avoid wide-angle distortion but I'm not sure what type of lens I should rent. And it looks like I need to watch out for parallax shift. I will be shooting a Canon 5D Mark IV. Any lens recommendations or general recommendations for close-up panos? Thanks!!!

Thumbs up 👍

Beautiful shot.... how do you figure out what print size to use?

Hi Adam, Thanks for the video ! I learned a lot. Let me ask you a question. Do you know the cause when Lightroom tells you, that some of the photos were not possible to be merged ? Thanks, Juan

Nice! :)

Over saturation and detracts from a photo in the same way that gilding detracts from the beauty of a lily. It is too much make-up on an already beautiful woman. But I have learned a lot from your video. Thank you.

How do you mount these panorama prints for hanging on a wall please?

which exact roll of paper did you use i also have a pro 1000

Can you please let me know which canon printer you use? Thanks.

Ok, fair play, great photo at the very end. But as a hobby photographer where does one need to focus on whilst moving the camera ? That’s the kind of points we need as help.

Adam, I own the same printer but had not realised that one can now print wide landscapes from the printer. I am assuming that you just have cut the required length of paper from a roll or as you said you can but panoramic paper. Would you mind confirming that is what you do? Many thanks

I’ve discovered that my big lens is producing a slight vignetting which appears as vertical lines of slight dimming in the pano. I’ve got a couple of ideas on things to try, but any recommendations? (other than buying a new lens 😛) Thanks for all the tips in the vid 🙏

Pointing your feet at where you want to end up is how you do a hand held pan in video as well. In video you start before the section you want and end past where you want to stop to eliminate the shake when starting and ending the image. That probably doesn't apply to stills.

Hi Adam, just wondering do you print over WiFi or direct connection between computer and printer cause your prints look spot on with what’s on the screen. Cheers

How you do panorama is tough for a beginner, just good with a very experienced photographer. If the landscape is an ocean, it's hard to hold a level of water in one line.