KZfaqrs are even 3D printing clickbait. now. What a time to be alive.

"what should I print for the thumbnail?" "Oh I know, *a 8k resolution ass* "

A good tip for resin printing is make the edges of the raft angled upwards, this helps so much with removing prints.

This is the first of these printer videos I've seen that didn't bore me in seconds and was easy to follow and understand. With a comprehensive review with no bullshit. Thanks mate. I appreciate it.

This man finally understands click bait. I’m one day he’s collected over 10x his average view count XD

Wow. Imagine a printer of this quality for 2000 dollars a few years ago. The progress of affordable 3D printing is amazing

Great to see an Aussie review, use a Photon Mono myself and after a fair few print fails I to have found that aside from sufficient supports, ambient temp is critical to good prints and ensure that the room is a min 23C and also leave the bottle of resin near the central heating vent to warm the resin prior to filling the vat.

This isn't only good for models, it's also really really good for prototyping massive amounts of smaller parts for mechanical assemblies that require several small parts. I'd get one just for that, as it leaves the parts far smoother than a regular FFF printer can achieve.

Resins back on the menu boys! Nicely done and I was just thinking I need to break out my space heater for my resin print room as that temp challenge is a very very real thing.

I love it that when you manage to get a macro so close you see the layers on a resin print, you make your own fingerprints look like mountains

"Yeah so first few things to make with an 8k resolution printer, go." MM: "Hmm Lola Bunny sounds good" "Wha-?" MM: "Rabbet"

OMG! This is a game changer! I'm a metal artist and the possibilities are making me crazy excited! Thank you for the review and now I'm a subscriber.

use a hairdryer on the supports it will heat them up and make them flex and easy to remove from models leaving no puck marks. i also use the hairdryer to warm up the resin before a print. :) hope this helps with your cleanups.

I've said this before, I say this in about every new resin printer video I come across, and I'll continually say it again until there's actual change: Resin printers need to get away from resolutions and use PPI instead. Resolutions don't mean anything without PPI, a 5" display and a 50" display can have the same resolution but their pixel density is wildly different. Beyond this, we should also know pixel aspect ratio, if we're dealing with true squares or not. Further beyond this, we should also know Z axis resolution, as we can combine this with pixel aspect ratios and form a voxel aspect ratio, because even if the pixel aspect ratio is square, Z axis resolution won't always necessarily form a cubic voxel, but rather a rectangular prism with two square faces. Yeah, sure, you can figure out the PPI yourself, but that really shouldn't be necessary, just replace resolution numbers with PPI numbers on the box; this also doesn't fix the lack of information about pixel aspect ratio, Z axis resolution, and voxel aspect ratio. This argument is also entirely valid because any other printer uses DPI numbers, and not some arbitrary resolution of the print carriage axis. It's annoying that we're still using resolution numbers, especially on production and industrial machines, because it's really nothing better than clickbait, as the resolution number itself doesn't provide useful information as per the quality of the prints; and to make this issue worse, some printers don't even directly mention the size of the display, you have to go hunting through different spec sheets just to find what should be relevant information.

Great content, and easy to listen to with excellent detail. Just getting into 3D printing, so looking forward to more great vids like this one. Subbed here!

And that giddiness rt there is why I love this hobby! Thanks again Angus!

Once again an amazing video :) and im so happy to see my model being featured here. The necromonger blade is flawlessly beautifull printed on the Phrozen sonic mega 8k, its just sick :D

Lola… a man of culture I see.

I know this is stupid and off topic, but i love your desktop background. You are one of culture.

This ia a good review!!! The learning curve is massive, Thank You. it really takes a skilled craftsman who knows , 3D modeling, paint, solvents, resins, engineering design etc... It is not plug and play for the layman. So far I have been lucky with the Sonic Mega 8k but my background includes all of these skill sets professionally for decades. I prepped an indoor climate controlled room with a paint fan & a variac a wall of filters, rubber floor & laminated paint table.. On my first medium sized print I saw all the issues you mention half way through. I stopped the print tripled my wall thickness to 6mm, used heavy supports anywhere the angel was horizontal, set my infill to 50% & dug drain holes. Then I sealed the windows and put a space heater in the hall out side the intake room door. The room stays between 70 & 75 degrees. Every large print for 1 month now have been successful. Only some slight warping which I solved with more & heavy supports The fire proof exhaust fan turned down to 40 volts & laminated table helped a lot for cleaning with IPA & fumes.... Be careful this stuff is a flammable bomb, you must now what you are doing with IPA... I brush and paper towel wipe the build plate & parts. It turns out this is a science.. Great video you hit all the main points.... Hope this description helps to solve a few. 1 month in to resin printing full size sculptures and they are amazing... This is a dream come true... Warning Variacs and Ulstra sonics cleaners can cause sparks or ignition and should never be anywhere near IPA....

wow, I'm surprised that my species Rabbizorg got 3d printed, thank you for liking them!

Phrozen should include a metal block with pins that directly interface with the holes in the build plate. Pop off the build plate and gently push it down over the pin panel. The resin is flushed and the print is nudged off. Some re-engineering would have to be done. But it would be cool.

I've literally never even seen a 3D printer in person but I love your channel! I feel like by the time the tech gets down to me I'll be fully prepared XD

Great review thanks Angus!

interesting thumbnail

Lola Bunny: When you can't admit to being a furry.

Seems like a reasonably capable machine at a competitive price. Never done any 3D printing but have been thinking about it for a while.

Suuuper Rad video - as a lifelong scifi hobbyist who use to obsess over WARHAMMER 40K figures -this was extra fun to watch seeing that people can now design and print figurines so easily let alone as this technology improves over the coming years = gonna be fun to see this all evolve!!

the quality of some of those prints is incredible a few years ago i would've expected to see that quality only in very high end industrial uses not something a standard civilian can own. absolutely amazing. thanks for sharing Maker's Muse!

But is the blade half a gram heavy on the back side?

A respectable clickbait. No false advertising and no red circles or pog faces.

finally re-found this video again! that rabbizord model is really good

13:34 “I absolutely love the mashup of animal and robotic features” Who’s gonna tell em about protogens

Thanks for this super detailed review! Great to see it in action. Also, very cool to get a look at it through a macro lens. Haven't seen anyone try that before. Quick note: those ridges are NOT a product of the screen resolution, but the layer height. You're looking at the size of the layer each time the build plate lifted. The screen resolution is represented in the roundness of the edges around the layer, which in my experience has been pretty much indistinguishable whether using 2k, 4k or 6k. Seems to be quite high enough in any case. What you SHOULD keep in mind, however, is the cost of replacing that screen when the UV light inevitably wears it out.

I am sure someone has already commented this but to answer your question from 11:35 : The slicer that I know, that can do these support is Lychee and it does a great job of it too.

The slicer that Titanforge use is called Lychee, has a lot more control over supports than Chitubox does.

Living on the Canadian Prairie, my first reaction was "it's funny that he thinks +14 is cold." My second, stronger reaction was "I should probably never to to Australia in their summer, because *I* think +30 is hot."

Good video, I can't imagine the clean-up of this size of printer when the Mars 2 Pro is already a hassle.

Dude knew EXACTLY what he was doing with the thumbnail

Lychee Slicer has some great support customization options, including, taper, lenght of the tip, penetration into the model, etc, so it looks like these models were sliced in Lychee (and if not, that slicer can to it so you can build similar support structures for your own prints).

The thumbnail tho, TAKE MY LIKE

YOUR BACKGROUND! I thought i was the only one that enjoyed those music videos xD

“Just check out those ears” Don’t you wana just bit em? 😉

Really love your MTC saga wallpaper. Never would have thought to find that here :D

The mega 8K is the third Photocure resin printer we have bought, The Peopoly L and the Form 2 being our first. We also have a Raise 3D pro that we bought used. The mega 8K, I have to say, is the very first printer we have ever bought that worked the first time, right out of the box, using their recommended resin and settings. Thus far, the only failed prints we have had were due entirely to our own experimentation with settings. If we use the Aqua 4K resin or the ABS-like resin, we get perfect print, every time. Its not fast, but I would rather wait a little longer for a great print, than lose every third print just to try and squeeze a print out faster.

5:35 Yooo the MTC Saga Background is neat! Overall, the 3d printer seems extremely cool. Looking forward to what'll come out of such a detailed 3d printer.

A side by side of the maker coin from this and a 0.2mm layer FDM machine would help put the quality in perspective.

Game's workshop: *whimpers* "Its scared"

"YOU KEEP WHAT YOU KILL!" HAHA just watched Riddick again the other night. We need another one.

I see that desktop background there. A man of taste I see.

A little trick that I've learned after 1 year in resin print is to take a towel and spray a little bit of ptfe grease on it and with it oil the fep before the resin. That's work so good for me that i've never changed fep again and the "bop" sound is almost gone.

That would be interesting to see a video showcasing useful prints from a resin printer

Thanks for the review.... And Yes, the failures where the supports. The Fast and more flexible resins require scaffolding support towers (minimum of 3 cross braced if used at any height) like what you did in Prusa.

Amazing quality video as always ! If there was ever an argument of thumbnail effecting performance iono of a better example haha Also I’m so glad elegoo added the “vat cleaning” mode now it’s great!

As always, informative and engaging Angus. Whenever I start to watch a review of a resin printer, I wonder if I should get one. Then as the review progresses, I'm reminded of all the reasons why I've avoided this mess-fest and by the end of the review, I'm, "No way!" What I should keep in mind is getting resin prints from a service bureau if there's something I really want that isn't going to work on FDM.

Good shout on the temperatures for the resin, I ended up grabbing a reptile heater pad from the pet shop after pulling my hair and numerous failed prints once we entered winter. Just something you don't think about coming from FDM and it's not something that is widely discussed when it comes to troubleshooting failed SLA prints.

OOoooooo Nice 2600 and JD 8080 rack mounted behind you!! :)

Dude nice JP-8080!!!! Didnt know you where into synthesis :) That is awesome!

When I saw this machine: "Yay! I can print all my 7" figures in one piece!" It runs exclusively on Chitubox: "Well, it was good while it lasted. Hard pass."

there is usually a "tank clean" feature so you don't have to drain the whole vat after a failed print

That's a mighty fine Roland JP8080 you have in the background.

Happy New Years

Crazy to think just over 5 years ago the most available 3D printers were expensive and had pretty grainy prints Now we got 8K prints on extra large porous resin printers

Don't forget you can adjust antialiasing to help smooth out the layers

No way I been quoting the chronicles of riddick line “you keep what you kill” to my friends while playing looting shooting video games to this day XD

I don't even plan on buying a 3d printer but the thumbnail got me to clicking the vid still

If heat is an issue, it will be interesting to see how it does in the heatwave you'll start to have in several months.

I really need to get one of these. I feel like you could easily make back the cost selling prints.

Delighted to see Lola here, but absolutely flabbergasted to see Lordyan as well. Cheers from the dark side! Also nice printer too I guess.

Oh you gotta love the most replayed feature on youtube and see all the horndogs XD

Much as I understand the reasoning behind the porous design on the bed, I wish they'd angle it too. That way you get the resin able to drip off and the reduced suction. Still means that a flex plate for these beds is basically impossible though. Adding that would guarantee a mess.

Those long pointy supports are made in Lychee. It also has better support bridging meaning tall supports are much more rigid than compared to chitubox.

Bro, i ain't even mad about the thumbnail. That's actually really creative clickbait.

Came to the thumbnail. Stayed for the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K Review

Try just poring those two colours of resins to make marble effect.

How much are replacement LCDs and how many hours do they last? Or is that not an issue anymore with resin printers? Enjoyed the video, no interest in resin printing, but MM is just such a likeable guy.

@Maker's Muse Wouldn't it be better if you rotate some models so that they would be parallel to the print bed? For example you could rotate both angel and blade models by 90 degrees. That would make print faster because hight effectively becomes lower. Also it would require less support material since surface of the object is closer to the bed, at least for angel model. What do you think?

12:28 for leading into the thumbnail. I'm surprised nobody else has tagged it prior.

For the thumb screws grind off the first part of the thread down to the thread min. diameter. Do 6mm or 1/4" at a time. This will leave the first part for locating. No need for them to put a cam lock on. That would increase the price.

Thanks for the video, Angus. Looks like an amazing printer. However, I personally don't want to touch resin based printers. I know it will be a little off topic but could you do a video about that tower of electronics you have sitting beside your synth. I would like to see what you have on that stand and what it all does.

i find your S3rl MTC saga wallpaper to be top class.

Hi there!! THanks for the review! Really nice! May I ask you if you have anything on the 4k and 8k resings? Is there big difference? is it actually worth it? Thank you and keep up the good work!

Those "Ears"

Very drool worthy! Love your work, and I’m keen to see more projects involving this radical piece of tech. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🍀🍀🤓😎

For the miniatures, you could have stuck them way closer together. That's how I do it and it works. Basically I make all rafts overlap.

I am truly impressed with print Quality... this save lot of smoothing polishing procedure

I love how the most replayed spot in the video is 13:11 😂

Anyone know the LCD cost for a replacement? This is something I would like to take into account before looking into a purchase...

It's great to see a review of an ethical and cool company that makes a quality-ass machine!

5:11 I always use a short L-shaped usb extension cable for two reasons. One, the L shape male end is to prevent accidental snap of anything attaching to the system. Second, because the drive gets pugged and unplugged so often, any wear to the connector happens on this cable’s end

Thank you for sharing your valuable experience. May I know how you set up the slice program?

So for me it seems like "standard" 3d printing is still the most viable every day way to print, but rest is best for when you need something that seems almost layerless

you get the latest, most detailed and most technically advanced 3d resin printer and you print a thicc bunny girl twice?

that outro reminds me so much of bo's skit about youtubers in inside

i dont even do 3d printing but i kept watching

You need to add a heater inside the unit. I use a incubator heater for all 3 of my printers. I keep the temp at 85F degrees, you won’t regret it. Another Tip: run the supports under hot water fir a few seconds before curing and they will come off so easily.

The print volume is just amazing... but I think I'll just stick with picking up a new Prusa whenever I'm ready for resin, lol!! 😁

It is really cool how quickly technologies are growing. Like I wasn't really into 3d printing stuff etc and such resin printers I remember through vids from 2016, when even small ones were expensive as heck and resin itself aswell. But now you can buy such a best for 2k or less. I won't lie, but at first glance I was sure that such monster would cost smth like 6-8k or more. Hope that in another 5 years such stuff would cost just like a great reasonably priced pc peripherals setup like keys, mouse, monitor etc, so even more people would be able to afford cool stuff like this.

ngl i clicked on it to learn more about resin printers, and needless to say just based off the cute ass robot-rabbit thing, you get a subscriber

I just want a consumer 3D printer that works very well, is very consistent, doesn't have constant issues, that I can set-and-forget with confidence. Unfortunately, I feel like that's still a long way away. ...hell, we still haven't even fully mastered TWO-dimensional printers, yet. 😂