3 Things I thought would be made in a 'optimal' setup. 1 Air oil seperator. 2. Oil drain back to oil pan. 3. Air back to intake turbo suck side.

Sold my Miata a long time ago but never stopped watching you, your content is great and a lot of it can transfer over to any car not just the Miata. Keep up the good work chief.

I remember commenting on one of your broke and boosted videos back when I was a very smart 20-year-old expert about everything, saying imperial bad, metric good. I have since grown as a person, turboed an eunos roaster of my own (with a kraken kit no less!), and have come to realise metric and imperial are not so different after all. In fact there's one thing both systems have in common. They're incompatible with imperial 😂 Honestly though your videos were a major help for myself and countless others on their quest for POWAAR and they only seem to be getting better. Little things like outlining the breather lines at 4:12, oooh, yes. Just knowing that I get to watch your videos for free, I almost feel guilty! World's best (Miata)Dad

Looks great as always! Awesome alternative to welding them like we typically do, saves you the pain of a respray if it’s already a finished cover. If you do want to put scrubbers in the baffle passages (def not required), the trick is to only put it in half of the baffle passage, on the side farthest from the AN fitting. It scrubs the oil out, but won’t let the oil weep towards the fitting and into your catch can.

Stop it Greg Peters. Stop it. Your passion for the Miata is contagious.

You can bore out -10AN to 3/8 NPT fittings to match the -10AN ID. Pretty easy with a drill press and opens it up significantly. There's enough material on the 3/8 side to get away with it safely on a low pressure line.

Quick tip on wrinkle paint - the quality/tightness of the wrinkle is dependant on curing temp. If you are painting multiple parts that are in the same visual area, do your painting/curing all at once. Letting paint cure outdoors on different days with different temps will cause different wrinkle finish on the parts.

I haven't had a mx5 in over 5 years and I'm still watching your videos. You're awesome Greg, thanks for content

I am absolutely loving your vids, you have a great way of explaining things. I had an issue with my vw golf (rabbit) gti, slipping clutch, when I opened it up it was drenched in oil, worked out that the crank case was not venting well enough and was blowing past the crank seal into the bell housing at high revs . Better vent, better clutch........subbed.

On my motor I removed the pcv valve so I have two open ports on the valve cover hooked up to a three port mishimoto oil catch can and I have that third port connected to a fitting I drilled into my air filter on the turbo to pull vacuum on the entire system under all conditions, no issues so far!

This is the only catch can setup that worked for me when i went over 350hp. I tried multiple setups and nothing worked except this

Clicked to learn automotive stuff….now I’m meditating. 😎

I feel like I am quite sure you need to rtv the baffles back in. My old turbo setup was filling the catch can after 20 mins of normal driving. Couldn't figure out why. Pulled the valve cover to find the rtv was worn. Resealed it, and the issue went away. Multiple track days and still no issue

Epic beginning. Breathing 😮‍💨 🧘🏾

That exhaust manifold looks crazy!!!

That is the PCV setup I settled on, but the catch can would fill up with 10-12oz of oil during a track day session. The oil would spit out of the catch can filter, travel through the hood vents and onto the windshield. At first I thought the puking oil was from worn rings, so I rebuilt the engine with your videos as a guide :) I take it back out on track and same exact issue. Same amount of oil too. My guess is the extended G's from cornering and high rpm boost is over powering the stock oil/air separation. So I fabricated an aluminum 6in x 6in x 4in vent to atmosphere catch can with loads of baffling and stainless steel wool. Then I added a drain hose from catch can to oil pan just like mazda speed miata does from the factory. No more overflowing catch can issues. I would be curious if you run into similar issues on track with your setup. The Catfish camaro guy on donut media had a video on power to weight ratio and was looking for someone to do a trackday with at button willow(mentioned it at the end). That would be a neat collab video. GL man

What a good & original way to start this upload….. thanks from Australia

I like it! Love the Channel. I’ve got a 1996 MX5 that I bought a few years ago, it was put together by Flyin Miata. forged internals, ARP studs everywhere, Garrett turbo charger I don’t remember the size or at the moment, Full stainless dual exit exhaust, lowered with a Full adjustable suspension set up, under body bracing, interior upgrades. paid 6000 for it with only 53,000 original miles on the odometer and all of the original paperwork from the build. I also did several other modifications to it it. New ECU coolant reroute LS coil conversion added some dedicated power and ground cables. was tuned to 300hp unfortunately due to a few bad parameters while setting up launch control Number three connecting rod left the Chat and the engine bay.

420th like! I think I'll put a catch can or two on my stock NA8 in preparation for a turbo some day, I'm really excited for the low mount Kraken video!

that paint crawl is called capillary action. has to deal with surface tension force

That Testors paint has been around for millions of years. (Joking) But forreal theyve been around for a minute and its enamel so it should hold up super well. thanks for the head up. Might use it on my entire valve cover.

great video as always Greg! Definitely going to be putting some of your tips to use on my supercharged 2.4l LE5 NA. The baffles in the valve cover on that motor are strikingly similar to the Miata ones.

Really good to know about the Testor's trick! I have a bunch of model paint lying around... perhaps I'll give it a try!

Sorry, I'm just here looking for stuff for my escort gt. It's the same 1.8 bp05 as the Miata. Already learned a good amount from you.

I was just talking about this with one of my coworkers. Great video, appreciate the link!

thanks for the video. It was helpful in my non miata 928 GTS motor which has a lot of blow by.

If you're a cheap ass like me, into fab work, an old A/C receiver dryer can be repurposed as a DIY catch can. You don't even need a welder if you're planning on drilling/ tapping the dryer can as well. You can find certain ones that work better than others size/ bracketry wise. Depending on how much time you take/ materials you use, its possible to make yours look store-bought and even better than some that are dedicated catch cans. You can add a drain, sight glass, barbs for filter/ inlet/ outlet, etc👍👍

Crazy that you bring out a vid on catch cans when that's the thing I'm just about to buy for my nearly done mk2 turbo 👍👍👍🏎️🏎️🏎️🚔

Jesus man! I gotta start taking notes here! PCB valve tip. Nice!

Really the best INTRO. breathing is so important

Another great video Sir! I used loctite on my baffle screws during reassembly as you can imagine the outcome when pushing the redline…😇

Please get a bench vise! It will make everything so much easier to drill and tap.

You need some JIS screwdrivers. Those are not phillips, they're japanese industrial standard. Slightly different. A phillips can round them out. Look for the vessel megadora set on amazon or get at least a #2 from them.

Looks great, the lettering came out super!

The “demo engine” will never be forgotten I remember seeing the video when u first got it. 😂

Just what I needed! 😀

You mentioned at idle and low throttle there is a vacuum at the intake manifold through the pcv valve. What happens to your car since you essentially deleted the pcv valve?

Great stuff, this hopefully solves my track day oil oil leak!

Great video and explanation, very helpful. Thank for the hard work and posting this for us to watch!

That cold open! I'm W E A K!!! 🤣😂😅

good job bro, looks good💪

your giving away my stock block secrets now !! only clean air to me is how an engine should run ;

Sweet!

put RTV .. don't skip that step. It only take a few minutes, never had any problems on my build

I had to fit a 2L catch can (FIA regulation) on my breather side only which was enlarged because on NA high compression, the oil fumes lower the overall fuel RON index which is not good on a race engine...

Pro Tip: use a PCV valve from a turbo 1995 Supra (and a grommet too). Fits the Miata without mods and is all metal and definitely holds boost!

coool video Greg just small note regards of math - increasing diameter from original 6.39mm up to 9.15mm will increase area (which is what matters) by over 100% not 43% so you should be good :D

Thanks again!

Once again Greg top quality content love your work keep it up man 🙏

The only thing missing in your list is the AN ends for the hose I was just looking for the easy way out and order form the link Love your channel Thanks for the info

PSH, that red paint, ain't gonna last! ;)

always showing good vids...greeting from australia

I regret not getting my Kraken manifold and DP powdercoated. Would recommend doing it before it gets tarnished Grag!

Went ahead and ordered the same as you to make a catch can. Unfortunately the engine builder of my forged 1.6 put the thrust washers in backward and destroyed my motor. Lasted 100 miles. Should have new motor up and running within 3 weeks. Would love to race you when its ready. My Garrett 2867r Gen 2 would make an interesting run.

Dude, I'm breathing better already! Namaste

you sold me on the citrus paint stripper with "it smells great"

I had a dual breather setup with no PCV just like this, just without enlarging the passages. I would notice while letting the car idle for a while, I'd see vapors come out the catch can and out the tailpipe upon initial throttle. Sadly I didn't get to put enough miles on the setup due to thrust bearing failure, but I am curious to hear how this works out on the street for you.

I needed to see this!!!

Run a breather hose from the valve cover to the catch can. Run a second high-temp hose to North of the catalytic converter (wink wink) to a welded bung that is angled pointing downstream of the exhaust. Yes, the hose should be flex steel for a foot or two as it connects with the exhaust. Place a high temperature one-way valve inline, in case of backfire. The suction from the exhaust will pull out the oil mist from the crankcase, and it will "generally" burn up as it exits the tailpipe. Prolly better for race cars than something that needs to pass emissions...

that testers paint survived 6 months on my big brothers C6 Z06 calipers before he sold it

Nice!

I see one problem with this. Sludge. The factory PCV system is there for a reason. It's to prevent sludge buildup. Tho maybe with a car that doesn't get to see a lot of miles, it's not such a big issue. For a daily driver tho, you'll definetly wanna keep some sort of vacuum on the valve cover

When I first turboed my miata I ran the non valve port straight to atmosphere and after a few weeks both of my cam seals walked out.

I blast wrinkle black with a heat gun straight away after 3 or so coats, aint right but it works

Made the valve cover mod myself (welded because im a pro of course). Cleaned the rtv from baffle plates and DID NOT put any new rtv... Tried it without any hoses and no hood on the car, *fuckyyes* and after a couple of minutes when oil got up to temp it started squirting all over my windshield (yes while driving). Let me tell you there's no windshield washer fluid for that scenario... To sum up, a lot of oil got into my baffles just by creeping thru the non rtv'd surfaces and then when crank case pressure came it looked like I were running a fryer at McDonald's. Rtv your baffle plates (if you dont have the old rtv intact) Don't run without a hood Don't make the AN10 fittings point straight up. My 2 cents

The metrics can't complain about tap drill sizes. Their tap drills won't be whole millimeters either plenty of times.

Hey Greg! Awesome video! I will definitely be doing this to mine. Just a heads up, the link for the "3/8 npt - 10an" links to a "1/4 npt - 4an"

You shoulda put a clip of a loud two step right after that intro lol

thanks greg, exactly how i plan to do it. hows your re-route going? piping looking good in the bay

That model paint won't die LMAO

Hey Greg what's your thoughts on DIYing an oil filler cap that breathes directly with the catch can, while keeping the stock exhaust PCV that is connected to the same catch can? It runs 12psi with

damn, i tapped my exhaust side 1/4 npt because I didnt think there would be enough metal for 3/8

You definitely need to RTV the baffle plates. I didn’t and was squirting say too much oil. Once I RTV’d the plates, no more oil squirting!

Hey Greg, I've forged my motor and may be going close to 18psi, I am mainly concerned about crank case pressure and my seals. I see Level7 do a oil cap 'QuickVent' product that looks a great way of venting pressure without messing with the cam cover. I plan to utilise this with a suitable AN10 catch can, but I was wondering once I install it, and I've got 2x AN10 venting the cam cover from the oil cap, should I still keep the PCV/mani hose in place (it has a GTX valve) or cap this off completely?

namaste Greg! hitting like just for the intro hahahah

If what was in the old catch can is months to years of oil, exactly HOW is that little oil going to alter octane of air/fuel mixture, and risk detonation? Looks like the complicated catch can is a solution in search of a problem. Not that I'm in the habit of arguing with Joe Perez . . . Possible engine totaling error in valve cover assembly. Use medium thread lock on the small screws holding the covers to the oil precipitation labyrinths in place! The factory sealant seems to function the same as thread lock, sealant squishing into the small fastener threading. "Hand tight" has ended up with loose screws in the valve chamber, most of which fall through the oil drains in the head, to end up in the oil pan. Where ever they end up, among the valve springs, or in the pan, this risks severe metal damage several places, all totally needless. The plastic scrunchy in the oil precipitation labyrinths ignores the function their name describes, just 'filtering' any large particles, which should Not be inside the engine anyway. Also, how large hose venting may compromise oil return to the pan. The faster oil laden air moves through the labyrinths with the new larger openings and hose, the less oil precipitates out on the cooler VC metal sides, and drains back into the engine. This fills functional oil catch cans faster! Metal mesh isolates much of the air flow from the cooler valve cover, intuition isn't much help determining if it's better or worse. Tests would distinguish which is better, clear or stuffed with metal mesh. Shouldn't catch can hose cutting and routing be the Last step after turbo air, oil and water hoses, IC pipes and whatever coolant reroute is used, have all been installed in the least mutually compromising layouts possible?

Could connect the oil catch can to the intake of the turbo help to the ventilation system? Since it’s a vaccum point should help to suck the vapours on the top of the head.

Testors is an extremely durable paint, people don't realize that.

Great video Greg! Does it matter which side hose goes higher or lower on your catch can? Any advantage or disadvantage one way or other?

Nice, creativity rules :-)

I was literally just researching this the other day for my NB and then gave up after reading 3 different answers. My Turbo BRZ has a dual catch can set up with a breather pre-turbo because emissions laws where I live. I’m thinking it’s overkill for the MX-5.

I’ve seen other videos of older small block engines that instead using the intake to pull pressure they use the exhaust which would reduce carbon build up id think? Anyone think this would work on a Miata?

Not a big fan of open systems... Also, placing it on exhaust side has its own potential problems. Have you considered adding a vacuum pump or something like that?

It all makes sense, but I'm still trying to figure out what an inch is. lol

Goodbye whatever video I was on, hello (checks notes), Catch cans!

Is a vacuum from the intake not needed? Watching your video for future knowledge of doing this myself and am curious if you found this efficient over time?

Could you make a Mac valve (ebc) install video !? With changes in megasquirt ?

i wonder if the exhaust is gonna sound different with the offset turbo

Nice

Same exact taps I bought lol

Hey Greg do you have any links to information on pcv and breather systems for itb applications??

I once painted my mx5s valve cover wrinkle black. Also first stripped it, painted it and baked it. As long as i owned it there was a horrible smell every single time the car got up to temp making me feel sick. Same smell as the garage when i was baking the paint. It also started to flake within 1year. I will never be using it again, no matter how cool it looks. It also doesnt help its 25 euros for 1 can.

do you feel like the loss of pcv really affects the additional sealing of piston rings as they say? I'm worried about venting both sides. What do you think

I’ve thought about running a VTA can from the old oil drain from the 323 (plug behind the alternator on the 1.6) but unsure if it’ll be beneficial or not?

How about some loctite on those screws INSIDE the valve cover

lots of confusion on forums about what catch can setup to go for high hp. This is the way!

Could very worn valve seals cause crankcase pressurization?

Hey Greg where did you get that Mazda flag from?

Hi Greg, did this end up solving your leaking oil seals on your red car? I have a freshly built motor with oem seals and have leaked through two front main seals. Breather system is AN6 and I'm thinking it might be time to go bigger

Engines make 99% of damaging crank case pressure from the underside of the pistons. For the Honda guys why do they vent from the valve cover??? when there are 2 to 3 large venting location located on the back of the block! Maybe they think it looks cool venting at the valve cover.