Trevor, you also might want to set CV29 so that analog conversion is off. That will also help suppress runaways. But it will also mean locos will not run on a DC track so you will need to change it back of you take you locos to a club or other layout that is still DC.

Hi Trevor,Im in the UK as well and find Larry's tips very helpful as well. I dont know if you know but larry also recommends setting cv 29 to be DCC only and not enable running on DC to make 'run aways' less likely. Larry covers this in another video but not certain what the number is.

@@TheDCCGuy thanks Larry I will look into that. I’m still very much at the setting up stage, track laying, wiring and electrical that sort of thing. I am building it using a modular style 4ft by 2ft sections, so I have loads of connections in my bus wire. I under stand this can cause a fair degree of RF interference, I wonder what your take is on that?

@@trevorsmith2152 I don’t know about the connections creating noise but the N-scale modular crews should have some experience with that. I built the Piedmont Southern using 2’x8’ modules constructed just like the modules I did a little over a year ago. However my DCC power bus was added afterwards as one long continuous run so not breaks or connectors. The best connectors I find are Anderson Power Poles which I believe are now the recommended standard for modular groups. I showed how to use them when I added the power bus for the modules in video #143.

@@1701_FyldeFlyer hi there, thanks for your reply, Larry is very good on dcc he explains it clearly and in layman’s terms. I’m still learning so getting there gradually. Another channel I subscribe to is boomer dioramas he is a very good modeller and has done it most of his working life in the film industry and I believe Museums making dioramas. If you view his channel you will wonder if it’s a model or the actual thing your looking at.

I agree but detailed DCC videos still are pretty niche subjects whereas general modeling has a much broader audience appeal.

I suggest you get a copy of John Armstrong’s book Track Planning for Realistic Operation. It is available from the Kalmbach Hobby website or Amazon. It is the reference book I turn to for questions like yours.

I discussed the entire concept of power management in video 112.

@@TheDCCGuy Larry thanks for the lead to the info that I needed. I have always been under the impression that circuit protection modules for model railroads were just for handling shorts in the block that they were protecting and that they supplied the full amperage that the power supply had. I have now found out that they can also control the amperage to the block that they control.

Tell them to send me a unit to do videos on and I will, too expensive for me to buy for one video.

The LEDs change between red and green when they reverse the frog’s phase (polarity). So have someone run a loco over these turnouts and watch the LEDs, as lo g as they are changing color they are doing their job.

@@TheDCCGuy thank you!!!I appreciate you’re lightening fast response on this subject, with what’s going on in this world, I feel like my problems are petty, but again Thank you, you’re a good guy and very smart!!!

Sounds like you’re doing exactly what I would suggest. The PSXs will share the 5 amps from the PH system and if you get to the point where you are overtaxing it then you could add a booster for more power.

@@TheDCCGuy fantastic! Thanks ever so much for your advice and prompt response. Another question if I may- I have a PSX4 and have just purchased a PSXX3 from Tony’s Trains. Are both compatible? Thanks again Ernie (Australia)

With it set for 1.3 amps it should work just make sure to use the low power setup.

@@TheDCCGuy I feel like I’m missing something cause I set the Cv49@ 1

NiMh, nickel metal hydride. For 9V batteries I use PowerEx brand also from Amazon.

@@TheDCCGuy THANBK YOU

The circuit breaker primarily prevents your command station booster from repeatedly turning on and off and overloading its electronics. If you carefully read the manuals they eventually say that allowing this to go on repeatedly is not healthy for them. With your low amperage system a circuit breaker that can be set low enough to maximize the output. One option is the NCE EB1 which can be set as low as 1.5 amps so two of them would allow you to power two blocks at 1.5 amps each. For more on power management see my video #112. Also, look at video #97 on circuit breakers as well as a couple other videos on using ballast lamps.

Just different ways to do it.

You should have watched the last video on the throttle where I mentioned that.

Yea, it should do the job. Just connect a wire to each tab and connect the other end to the screw terminals on the Frog-AR as I showed o the video. I used Frog Juicers on mine and it works great too.

You’ll have to give me more info on your setup. Are you just using PSXX units or is there an AR involved?

@@TheDCCGuy I’m just using the psxx3 boards only

I can’t think of any reason to replace existing ones as the FrogAR basically works on the same principle. I think the trip speeds are comparable but there may be some other reasons in some of the options but I don’t have time right now to dig into the manual to search for it.

@@TheDCCGuy Hi Larry: Thanks for the response. Your videos have been eye-opening regarding the effect of shorts on decoders. I've been losing 6-10 locos during each operating session-scrambled/stop responding (7 operators, 3 hours). As a result of your information (and discussions with local modelers and Mark Juett at the St Louis National), I'm going to to replace my old PM 42's with PSXX's, and replacing an old home made power supply providing power to the Command Station, and add snubbers. I'm hopeful that the current limiting aspect of the PSXX will reduce the effect of shorts. Thanks!

Depends on the amperage of the power supply that came with the PowerCab. You want the PSXX trip current to be set lower than what the PowerCab is rated for. The default is 2 amps on the PSXX but you can easily set it to 1 amp using CV49 as explained in the instructions.

@@TheDCCGuy The power supply is rate at 3 amps so is it better to change trip current

Ah, you got one of the newer ones, mine is 1.4 amps. You could leave it at 2 amps then later if you run into situations where you exceed that and the PSXX shuts down then bump it up to 3 amps. At that point if the PowerCab is actually good for a little more than 3 amps then the PSXX should kick out first but if you run into situations where the PowerCab shuts down first then drop it back to 2 amps.

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry your very helpfull Its always fun to check your old videos

First you can set it to values up to 4 using jumpers. Then you can use CV49 to set it to any value up to 10 amps. This is all explained in the instructions.

@@TheDCCGuyi appreciate your response, my question is how do I do it using the UWT50 I can’t find accessories in the menus thought maybe you knew something. I know NCE there is a button on the Controller, TCS there’s not. Sorry for the confusion I understand the instructions just can’t find the menu function. I’m new to DCC only had it for a month.

For systems that do not offer a specific accessory programming option you simply use ops mode programming to change CVs. See the instructions at the back of the manual for specifics.

The (250) means this is video 250 on my channel. As for detection you can reduce the sensitivity of the bdl168 by adding resistors as described in the instructions. The bdl168 is 22 years old and no longer made so I have no idea it will work, best to ask Digitrax tech support.

I was not aware the digitrax bdl168 had ceased production this will be news to users. It is still listed in current production on there website. And my local seller can still import them from digitrax.

Sorry I was reading the material on their website and they were discussing the BDL16, the BDL168 is still in production.

Use the switch button and ops mode programming as described in the instructions which you can download and read for free.

@@TheDCCGuy I was hoping to be spoon fed, which is why I watch youtube how-to video's. Anyway, my layout isn't to the point where I will be able to play trains. Too much house remodeling in the way.

I just looked at their diagram and they show a black wire on top and a red wire on the bottom in all cases. On mine I used red and green wires but I always have the red wire on top and the green on the bottom. Color is simply color, it doesn’t matter as long as you are consistent.

@@TheDCCGuy ok but the instruction i have input black on top and output red on top. is it possible that there an mistake on their sheet

I have both the long and short versions of the instructions and the black wire is shown on top on both the input and output terminals. Mine are both for software version D specified on the top of the first page. They may have revised the instructions for a different version but I can’t see where it matters anyway as long as you are consistent. UPDATE-I just looked on their website and the new one is version G and as you say they do have the wires reversed on the input and output sides. I will contact Larry Maier and see why.

OK, here is what Larry says. I asked whether it matters as long as you are consistent and as you can see there apparently was a change on the circuit board so pay close attention to the numbers on those jumpers to prevent problems if you mix old and new versions. I am surprised they did not point this out in the instructions. Yes, it really matters, particularly if you are mixing PSX and PSXX. If you look at the J2 outputs on both the PSX and the PSXX, pin 1 is on the left and pin 2 is on the right for both of them. !HOWEVER! Looking at the input connector (J1) for the PSX pin 1 is to the right but for the PSXX pin 1 is on the left. If you don't follow the colors (which are keyed to the position of pin 1), you will get a short where the PSX district meets the PSXX district.

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry, so what i underestand I have to go respect the input and output colors on J1 and J2 as per instructions. Well this will be part on a next video.

Yes, but if you set it up correctly you will never have enough locos running all at the same time in all your blocks to exceed the total booster amps-that is how power management works. Think about the circuits in your house. I would bet you that if you add up the circuit breakers in your electrical panel box they easily exceed the 200 amp service provided to your house. It works because you never have all the electrical appliances, lights, etc on at the same time. Power management for your layout uses that same approach.

@@TheDCCGuy Thanks Larry.